Saturday 24 December 2011

Top 100 wines of 2011

Here is my top 100 wines of the year with brief notes for each

100. Chateau Haut Brion 1994 - the nose was extraordinary; old school
99. Paul Pernot Batard Montrachet 1989 - stalwart Batard bought at auction for under $100
98. Revello Barolo Gianchini 2001 - lush, moreish and delicious with or without pasta
97. Montevertine 2001 - a beacon in an otherwise dull Tuscan firmament
96. Chateau Margaux 1996 - a gawky teen (but will be a stunner)
95. Chateau Couvent De Jacobins 2004 - scrumptious right bank quaffer
94. Coche Dury Meursault 2008 - tight as a drum
93. Chateau Haut Brion 1998 - untamed tannins, hold off
92. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1986 - awkward and lacking elegance again; give it a few decades
91. Guigal La Turque 1987 - middle-aged wench
90. Jean Boillot Volnay 1er Cru Les Freimets, 2001 - gamey, smokey, tertiary, Volnay at its best
89. Dominus 1987 - earthy and green (not in a bad way), Bordeaux-(Pichon-)like
88. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1983 - espresso, cappuccino and tobacco
87. Castello Di Nieve Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2005 - Giacosa for the common man
86. Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999 - evolving masterpiece from the late master
85. Ceritas Escarpa Pinot Noir 2009 - purity of fruit, no flab
84. Ceritas Ritchie Chardonnay 2009 - stylish, lean as a cheetah
83. Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1988 - lush, decadent, with sweet apricots
82. Chateau Lynch Bages 1985 - an institution; still sings the high notes
81. Chateau Palmer 1966 - dignified, Pall Mall club; the ultimate (Englishman's) luncheon claret?
80. Rinaldi Barolo 1970 - masculine, authoritative, a wine with gravitas
79. Maria Feyles Barolo Riserva Especiale 1978 - fully resolved, sweet cherries but abundant complexity
78. Drouhin Laguiche Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots 2008 - neat, classy
77. Penfolds Grange 1991 - unintegrated American oak; brilliant raw materials underneath
76. Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan 1998 - likewise but don't hold your breath
75. Chateau Gruaud Larose 2001 - combines the best of the old and new
74. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982 - a legend that does not quite live up to its billing
73. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1988 - cut from the same cloth as the brilliant 1985 but more austere (no bad thing)
72. Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan 1988 - polished and fully resolved
71. Giacosa Barolo Falletto Riserva 1989 - still needs another ten years
70. Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda Riserva 1990 - likewise
69. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1981 - perfectly resolved, better than the '83
68. Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 1992 - only suffers next to the 89 (see 5 below)
67. Ponsot Clos De La Roche Vieilles Vignes 1997 - fine equilibrium and tension as it enters its drinking window
66. Dujac Chambolle Musigny Les Gruenchers 1991 - declassified grand cru, grand cru quality
65. Armand Rousseau Lavaux Saint Jacques 1999 - extraordinarily delicious
64. Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2000 - likewise
63. Chateau L'Evangile 1989 - Godot, is that you?
62. Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2009 - terrific exotic fruits, minerality and texture; fine balancing acidity
61. Marc Morey Batard Montrachet 1985 - kinky, exotic, full-bodied and thrilling mature Batard
60. Chateau Trotanoy 2005 - formidable; at the same time modern and accessible
59. Masseto 2001 - a porn star yes, but genuinely classy and balanced
58. Ornellaia 1999 - refined, drinking beautifully
57. Chateau Leoville Barton 1978 - old church pew, wonderfully old school
56. Chateau La Tour Haut Brion 1979 - scorched earth, minerals, silky; Haut Brion-like
55. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie La Landonne 2001 - foursquare, brawny but fine and accessible
54. Chateau Lagrange 1996 - pencil lead/cigar/cedar, musky, chewy, finely toned
53. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1980/84/86 – fully mature, delightful and quirky Cote Roties
52. Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo 1958 – rises like a phoenix from the ashes, regal
51. Chateau Belair 1998 – ideal glass of (affordable) St-Emilion
50. Cappellano Barolo 1979 – fine poise and structure
49. Chateau Palmer 1979 – bouquet to die for, quintessential Palmer
48. Ceritas Porter Bass Chardonnay 2007 – complex, lean and sophisticated
47. Chave Hermitage 1998 – impeccable balance and poise
46. Chateau Montrose 1996 – meaty with black fruits and tobacco. Will eclipse the ‘89
45. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Les Vergers 2007 - fine balance of citrus fruits and minerals with cleansing acidic backbone
44. Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio 2001 – thick, exuberant, modern. Pedal to the metal.
43. Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello 2001 – absolutely farrking delicious
42. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1985 – gorgeous nose, perfectly resolved; at the top of its game
41. Prunotto Barolo Bussia Riserva 1967 – dextrous and kaleidoscopic - magic for 90 minutes
40. Chateau Latour 1994 – shed its abrasive tannins, thrillingly pure and foursquare cabernet for aficionados
39. Chateau Margaux 1994 – ethereal, with a touch of class no other 94 can match
38. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1987 – triumphant; easily wine of the vintage (with more than a little 1986?)
37. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1988 – finally beginning to drink, and its been worth the wait
36. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1988 – mineral, graphite; seamless; fourth best Pichon after the 1978?
35. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1996 – the second best modern Pichon after the 1982
34. Chateau Margaux 1981 - purity, dexterity, finesse and gravitas in an understated and discreet delivery
33. Lamarche Echezeaux 1997 - sublime and ethereal red burgundy for now and for later
32. Lynch Bages 1961 – leather, attic, church pew; autumn leaves and tea; lively, with a pleasing tension and still stiff tannic spine.
31. Leroy Corton Charlemagne 2001 – tropical, exotic, full-bodied and full throttle
30. Shafer Hillside Select 2001 – hedonism with structure; a benchmark for California
29. Guigal La Landonne 1981 – for once a perfectly poised, mature and delicious La-La
28. Chateau Fortia (Chateauneuf du Pape) 1978 – incredibly delicious, funky and fully mature
27. Leflaive Bienevenues Batard Montrachet 2002 - light on its feet, refined, smooth, silky, long lingering finish
26. Haart Goldtropfchen Auslese 1994 – levitating; superb fruit and acidic cut
25. La Mission Haut Brion 1989 – full bore La Mission, but played second fiddle to Margaux 1986
24. Jamet Cote Rotie 1988 – thrilling mature cote rotie, saw off a bevy of La-Las
23. Penfolds Grange Hermitage 1980 - rich, dense and complex, gathers momentum as it opens, it comes in wave after wave
22. DRC Echezeaux 2000 - primary, resplendent, high-toned; wonderful precision, delineation and texture
21. DRC Richebourg 2000 - lazer sharp; primary; meaty, gamey notes lurking below; enthralling and riveting
20. La Conseillante 1982 – quite evolved; layered, complex; sexy without being slutty
19. Chateau Latour 1985 – entering drinking window, every glass is better; the last is spectacular
18. Leoville Lascases 1982 – dense, lead pencil, timeless and formidable
17. Chateau d’Yquem 1996 – as gorgeous and as hedonistic as you would expect
16. Rousseau Chambertin 2000 – accessible now, perfect poise - an aristocrat among burgundians
15. La Fleur De Gay 1989 – frigilicious, similar to the Angelus - slightly less exuberant
14. Angelus 1989 – a stunner; rich and mouth filling; Christmas cake, melted chocolate and saddle leather
13. Petrus 2001 – mesmerising, legend in the making, a Dali-esque experience and decades to go
12. Rinaldi Barolo 1961 - effused feminine charm, delicacy, sophistication, complexity and typicite
11. Ramonet Bienevenues Batard Montrachet 1988 – green-hued and resplendent; vibrant with perfect tension
10. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1985 – seamless and timeless, it glides over the palate
9. Rousseau Chambertin 1996 – brooding and powerful, smorgasbord of spices, strawberries, game, camphor and minerals
8. Chave Hermitage 1990 – abbatoirs attack, spices, minerals; breathtakingly good
7. Chateau Latour 1990 – drop dead delicious
6. Cappellano Barolo 1961 – indescribable; translucent with gardenia notes; perfectly poised and resolved
5. Rousseau Clos Saint Jacques 1989 – strawberries, spice, game; silky, adorable; brilliant, heavenly
4. Rousseau Chambertin Clos De Beze 1995 – brooding, bonfire, minerals, complex, luxurious
3. Chateau Margaux 1986 – hard core, takes no prisoners; long haul; about as good as it gets
2. Chateau Lafite 1995 – bewitching, sublime, power, elegance, finesse and gravitas; mesmerising equilibrium
1. Chateau Lafite 1985 – heavenly, stunning, sublime, silky, nuanced, complex, superb finish; under-stated brilliance, balance and equilibrium; perfect glass of claret.




These are notable wines that did not make my top 50...most of them will get there one day, but some were in an awkward spot, while some were simply not good enough

Mouton 1986 – it was awkward this time, not graceful or elegant
Chateau Margaux 1996 – going through puberty, and a bit superficial on the last outing
Haut Brion 1998 – abrasive tannins, so stay away for now
Gruaud Larose 1982 – shown up a bit by LLC 82
Lynch Bages 1985 – yummy but quite flawed and bretty
Lynch Bages 1989 – just not good enough to make the cut
Palmer 1966 – dignified but only a good rather than great Palmer, 79 for example is better
Pontet Canet 2010 – soulless perfection? Left me stone cold
Tertre Roteboeuf 1998 – a bit tarty
VCC 1998 – very young and modern and a bit soulless
JF Mugnier Musigny 1992 - unimpressive
JF Mugnier Musingy 1996 - awkward
Roumier Ruchottes Chambertin 1996 – very awkward, big question mark over 1996 red burgs
Guigal La Mouline 1987 – got blown away by Chave 1990
Guigal La Mouline 1996 – out of sorts, pineapple?
Guigal La Mouline 2000 – similar to the 1996
Guigal La Turque 1987 – very good but not quite good enough
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino 2000 – painfully young, but tasted modern too
Giacosa Barolo Falletto Riserva 1989 – also very young and quite oxidative initially
Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda 1990 – needs another decade at least, but will get there
Penfolds Grange 1991 – the American oak is unintegrated, good raw materials


Wines which represented very good value for money

Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 2000
Cerritas Porter Bass Chardonnay 2007/09
Chateau Belair 1998
Gruaud Larose 2001
Trotanoy 2001 – only $75
Covent De Jacobins 2004
Castello Di Nieve Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2005

2 comments:

  1. Fantastic list, but where is the Trotanoy 2001?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yes I know a notable omission, I think it would have definitely come in the top 85

    ReplyDelete