The Judgement of London, Bordeaux vs. California, 2012

A group of 11 gathered at the Medlar restaurant on the King’s Road in Chelsea to compare and taste some Bordeaux and Californian wines. The tasting was blind, and was very much about winners and losers in the spirit of the Judgement of Paris, 1976. I helped Ben the organiser put together the flights, but neither he nor I knew the order.

Champers

Champagne Vilmart Grand Cellier d’Or 2006 vs. Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc 2006

#1: Small bubbles, very pale colour, very fine, must be a luxury champagne – 92. It was.
#2: Fuller, sweeter, chewier, not a bad bottle of fizz, must be the Californian – 90. It was.

Flight one

Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron 1985
Château Calon Segur 1989

#1 Deep maroon colour fine nose of earth and pencil lead, dense on the palate; very good. Think this is Bordeaux, and has more than a hint of Pauillac, so this is probably the Baron – 92. It was indeed Pichon Baron
#2 Dark, brooding, smooth, classy, not showing much, as it ages further and develops more complexity it could become an outstanding wine. This is Californian, and I am guessing Dunn, which it was - 92+
#3 A lighter more translucent colour with rasping tannins; Bordeaux and it clearly played second fiddle to #1 and was a disappointment. I guessed correctly Calon Segur - 89
#4 This was quite buttoned up, not showing much complexity yet, will improve. Mondavi? Yes - 90+

A good flight, where I think the Dunn edges the Baron. Nevertheless a good performance from the Baron, which I thought could be a weak link on the night.

Flight two

Phelps Insignia 1994
Dominus 1994
Chateau Troplong Mondot 1990
Chateau Palmer 1989


#1. WTF? Cherry brandy, tastes like cheap port, this is a parody of California at its very worst. FMSW, this is unbelievably bad. It is flawed surely? People round the table are not sure. Is this the Insignia? No it’s the Troplong Mondot. ~<70
#2 This wine is very smooth and velvety, but somewhat detached with low acidity. It definitely tastes more Californian, but I am hopelessly confused now so I guess Troplong – 90. No it was Dominus.
#3. Initially this seemed a bit diffuse and unfocused. Unfortunately it was too warm. Then that familiar Palmer magic began to show through. Not the best 89 Palmer I have tried by far away the best wine in this flight. 94
#4.This had nothing on the nose. On the palate it was a bit gooey. Rich and voluptuous. Does not engage the intellect in the slightest. I am guessing Dominus – 90. No it was the Phelps.

Well that was a disappointing flight. The Troplong was too diabolical to be true, so the owner is going to bring another along to a 1990 tasting we are doing in November. Even the Palmer was a bit below par compared to one I tried a few weeks ago. I was really disappointed with the Dominus and the Phelps. They came across as such superficial wines which present no challenge to the intellect. Maybe that is what rich people want these days.

Flight three

Dominus 1991
Ridge Montebello 1992
Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985
Chateau Latour 1985

#1: Ruby translucent. FMTG. Fabulous. Not a blockbuster but medium bodied and elegant, with layered complexity and a delicious finish. My wine of the night. Has to be Mouton - 95. Yes it was Mouton.
#2. Big voluminous wine, with lots of interest, fruit and complexity. Outstanding wine. 93. I guessed Dominus but it was Ridge.
#3. Fully mature, various fruits, spices and minerals and fine balance, very very fine. – 94. I guessed Ridge but it was Dominus.
#4. Starts out slowly; a bit brooding and a little volatile and funky, then pulls itself together and comes on very strong at the end with Pauillac mineral-fruit intensity, almost hauling in the Mouton. Must be Latour and it was. 94

Fabulous flight.

Ringers – these weren’t served blind

1) Mouton 1993
Cool, classy, lean; good but not in the same league as the ’85 - 91
2) Matanzas Creek 1992
Fully mature, fat and low acid. If you like them fat and easy this is a wine for you - 89

Dessert wines

1) Sine Qua Non Mr K the Noble Man 2000
Extremely sweet and unctuous, thrilling 94
2) Chateau d’Yquem 1989
Remarkably developed for a 23 year old Yquem, full bodied, less taut and acidic than the 1988; but still well balanced and very fine. Yquem never disappoints. 95

I liked the 91 Dominus so much more than the 94, and this kind of summed the evening up. Aside from the appalling Troplong Bordeaux clearly came out on top. Qualitatively it wasn't as close as my scores suggested. All of these Californians were undoubtedly well made, but few of them are really interesting to drink.


My pecking order

Mouton 85, Yquem, Latour, Dominus 91, Palmer, SQN, Ridge, Dunn, Baron, Vilmart, Mouton 93 - Hits
Mondavi, Scramsberg – Middling
Dominus 94, Insignia, Calon, Matanzas, Troplong – Misses

The scores make no claims for accuracy, consistency or fairness

Richard Katz

We knew he was very unwell and fighting against quite formidable odds, but news of Richard's passing on Sunday 7th October was a crushing blow. He had a unique, inspirational and generous personality and he touched the lives of people he met. Even those who did not know him well were devastated by the news as the Wine Pages board attests. I first met Richard around Christmas 2009 at a 'best of class' dinner at The Ledbury where he very generously brought along a Chateau Rayas 1978. I don't count myself as  one of his closest friends but I did get to know him quite well this year, and he showed great courage and optimism in the face of his condition. We had a memorable couple of conversations at his house over coffee, about anything and everything.

Richard every time I drink a glass of decent Northern Rhone I will think of you. And we will never forget you.

Top 50 wines in Q3 2012

Sorry it has been such a long time, I have been very busy. Anyway I am still drinking fabulous wines, and here is my selection from Q3 2012.

50. Chateau Magdelaine 1988

49. Cornas 2003 (producer unknown)

48. Emille Balland Croq Caillotte Sancerre 2011

47. Chateau De Beaucastel Roussane Vieilles Vignes 1999  

46. Chateau Certan De May 1982

45. Trimbach Clos St-Hune 1997

44. Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

43. Chateau Pape Clement Blanc 1996

42. Chateau Leoville-Barton 2002

41. Chateau Branaire Ducru 1982

40. Michel Cornas Geynale 1999

39. Chateau Montrose 2002

38. Hermitage La Chapelle 1985

37. Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2010

36. Georges De Latour Beaulieu Private Reserve 1980

35. Oddero Barolo 1967

34. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee 2007

33. Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1999

32. Michel Cornas Geynale 1990

31. Clerico Barolo Ginestra 2001

30. Clerico Barolo Pajana 2001

29. Lynch-Bages 2009

28. Gilles Barges Cote Rotie 1994

27. Chateau Talbot 1982

26. Jobard Meursault En Barre 2000

25.Verset Cornas 1996

24. CVNE Vina Real Reserva Rioja 1985

23. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1982

22. Cotat Cul de Beaujeu Sancerre 2009

21. Chateau Climens 1988

20. Verset Cornas 1995

19. Jamet Cote Rotie 1998

18. Coteau du Vernon Condrieu 2007

17. Chateau Figeac 1976

16. Donhoff Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke 2009

15. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ancegnieres 2010

14. Dagueneau Silex 2009

13. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990

12. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982

11. Camille-Giroud Cortot Rognots 2007

10. Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin en Matrot 1996

9. Camille-Giroud Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts 1978

8. Chateau Grillet 1998

7. Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000

6. Chateau Magdelaine 1982

5. Chateau Clos Fourtet 2009

4. Chateau Pontet-Canet 2009

3. Chateau Palmer 1989

2. Harlan Estate 1994

1. Chateau Margaux 1982