Bordeaux 2010 revisited

2010 revisited

Almost exactly two years after my first encounter I revisited the 2010 Bordeaux at the Institute of a Masters of Wine in London. The wines are generally much more shut down now and therefore difficult to decipher. These wines aged 4-5 years are in their most shut down phase. Most of the wines on my first encounter were left banks. This time it was a more balanced representation.

The year 2010 is brilliant in St-Estephe, Pauillac and St-Julien, better than any other vintage I have encountered. It is more mixed in Graves, and patchy in St-Emilion, with some awkward wines there. In Margaux in is generally good but not as consistent as the other Medoc communes. in Pomerol very good indeed in contrast to St-Emilion.

The most disturbing aspect I detected is the trend - that some producers can't resist - is toward making more souped up wines...and I don't think that is a problem which is unique to the 2010 vintage, though there are one or two wines which are refreshingly better in 2011 or 2012.

I will give a rundown of wines I tasted with scores, which are hardly objective or consistent, and whether the wine was a hit or a miss relative to my generally very high expectations.

Wines not shown include Pape Clement, Ducru Beaucaillou, Latour, Pavie.

Wines of the vintage (excluding whites)

Pape Clement (based on my last tasting, not tasted here)
Rauzan-Segla
Calon-Segur
Montrose
Leoville-Barton
Leoville-Lascases
Pichon Lalande
La Conseillante
Cheval Blanc
Haut-Brion
Lafite
Mouton
Margaux

Pessac-Leognan/ Graves
Haut-Bailly: Miss, 90. Too easy, obvious and dumbed-down especially in the context of what this estate can achieve. An estate that has wandered off to the dark side in the quest for points.
La Mission Haut Brion: Miss, 95. I know that sounds like a contradiction. A mammoth wine which is alas blighted by its colossal alcohol...through the charcoal and blueberry it always lurks. Maybe that will not turn out to be a problem and this will be a legend for our grandchildren to enjoy if they can afford it.
Smith Haut Lafitte: Miss, 90. What happened to the fabulous wines from 2002-06? Another estate that has gone onto the dark side with dumbed down wines. It's nice, but too oaky, and too low in acidity.
DDC: Miss, 91...nice enough wine but still too loose...too much fatness, alcohol, not enough nervosity, the 11 and 12 are better.
Margaux
Cantermerle: 91. Miss. I was expecting better (my expectations were high)... good wine but a bit over-extracted.
Cantenac Brown and Brane Cantenac, both hits, modern but classy ~92 for both.
La Lagune: Hit, 92 really shut down hard but definitely a wine that has what it takes, which will emerge into a beautiful swan on day.
Duforts-Vivens: Hit 93 lovely, restrained, balanced and classy wine.one to consider buying.
Ferriere: Hit 92, rougher and more rustic, but lovely stuff, grippy
Giscours: Hit 91 cool fruits, good potential
D'Issan, Kirwan, Lascomes both misses...over extracted, vanilla oak, out of kilter... ~ 88
Palmer: Miss 91...too obvious and easy, where is the grip and gravitas? Very different to other young Palmers like the ferociously backward 2000. What is going on here? The cynic in me suspects this has been fashioned to please well heeled and unsophisticated far eastern palates.
Rauzan-Segla: Hit 97...the quality of wine that Palmer should have produced and then some...this Rausan is svelte, beautifully pitched and a peach of a wine. One of the wines of the vintage.
Prieure-Lichine: Hit 93... A revelation, and a beautiful wine showing admiral restraint.
Du Tertre: Hit 93...similarly impressive, retrained and thrilling.
St-Estephe
Calon-Segur: Hit 97...minerals, earth, cool fruit, one of the great successes of the vintage. This is astonishly good.
Cos D'Estournel: Miss 91....Not as spoofulated as the 2009 but the accent is on easy for this estate's well-heeled clientele.
Cos Labory: Hit 90... A creditable effort for this estate
Lafon Rochet: Hit 92... You would expect this to be good and it is
Montrose: Hit 99...fabulous entry, balance and persistence...one of the wines of the vintage.
St-Julien
Beychevelle: Hit 96...shut down but a brilliant Beychevelle with a lot of class...when it emerges from its shell it will be thrilling
Branaire-Ducru: Hit 94...this has shut down hard compared to two years ago. The score will probably go up a couple of points when it emerges from its deep sleep. Very happy to own this.
Lagrange: Hit 92... Better than the last sample I tried a couple of weeks ago.
Langoa: Hit 92... Solid, like Lagrange, but outclassed by its more esteemed sibling.
Leoville-Barton: Hit 96...shut down, but a very complete wine. The best Leoville-Barton, it will probably merit a higher score in a few years.
Leoville-Lascases: Hit 98...it's quite closed but a glorious, elegant wine. I have not tried Ducru Beaucaillou, but this is the best St-J I have tried, which is a bit unfair on Leoville-Barton. LLC is also one of the wines of the vintage.
Leoville-Poyferre: Hit 93.. A little glossier, but a very good wine, with ferocious tannins.
Saint-Pierre: Hit 92...an estate which has been accused of going to the dark side...the oak is a bit more obvious but I did not find it obtrusive. And a very good wine to boot.
Talbot: Hit 92...perhaps the most restrained and shy St-Julien, but it lacks for nothing, which bodes well for the future when it comes out of its shell.
Pauillac
Duhart-Milon: Hit 93...lots of moving parts here, which are not all fully integrated, but lots of potential. Difficult to fathom aged four. If my score is off it is probably too low.
Grand-Puy Lacoste: Hit 95... More classic and restrained than the opulent kinky 2009, and a better wine for it...very GPL and will evolve the same way the 1995, 1996 and 2000 have.
Lynch-Bages: Hit 93...a chunky Lynch, with a lot of density and stuffing, tannic and brooding...maybe lacks elegance...no problem with this evolving into a great Lynch, but I think it may be decades away from its apogee.
Lynch-Moussas: Hit 93... I really loved this...it had a wonderful restraint and minerality, and it contrasted with the power and density of the Bages. This has elegance and finesse.
Pichon-Baron: Hit 96...titanic wine, with power and gravitas, a great wine to rival the 2000 and 2005 but very closed and tannic now.
Pichon-Lalande: Hit 97...this has that extra degree of finesse and class...a really gorgeous Comtessa.
Pontet-Canet: Hit 94...a big wine (in a big bottle) it is expressive and grippy, big and bold. I somehow struggle with the notion that this is a 100 point wine...the Pichons, Montrose and LLC are better wines.
St-Emilion
Beausejour-Becot: Miss 86 ..clumsy and awkward...the 2011 and 2012 are a lot better.
Belair-Monange: Miss 88...Oh the pity! What did they do to my beloved Belair? More extracted, but so wooden.
Berliquet: Hit...90...modern, but well made and pleasing.
Canon: Miss...85?...and 15% ABV. Lionel (that's Cockney rhyming slang)
La Dominique: Hit...91...lush but good wine, no horrors here...under-rated producer.
Figeac: Hit...93...complicated wine. My first impression was that this is unfocused and a miss. My second take is completely different. That this is a very good Figeac, true to the style and that this is a very good effort in a somewhat challenging vintage.
Pavie-Macquin: Miss...87...overcooked, much better in 11and 12.
Troplong-Mondot: Miss...87...sumo wine, lush and seductive but hot on the back with its 16% alcohol.
Clos Fourtet: Hit...92...proper St-Emilion but modern at the same time, very competent effort.
Pomerol
Bon Pasteur: Miss...87...contrived, easy, not at all interesting.
Clinet: Hit...92...minerally, grippy, (refreshingly) a bit old school
La Conseillante: Hit...97...a structured as well fleshy and complex wine with mineral overtones, and a stern tannic backbone, this is top drawers Pomerol, will challenge the 1989 and 1990 (neither of which ever closed down like this has).
La Fleur Petrus: Hit...95...a really complete and luscious Pomerol...I reckon the 2012 is as good perhaps even better, but this is lovely.
Gazin: Hit...94....a fabulous Gazin.
Petit-Village: Hot...93...another delicious wine
Trotanoy: Hit...93...structured and grippy, very good.
First growths:
Angelus: Miss...93...an interloper and a porn star among the first growth aristocracy. Smooth and silky like melted milk chocolate, you can see how some people could love this, and even buy it. Even I enjoyed the experience but I doubt I could drink more than a glass with its 15.5% alcohol. Not bad for what is really a cru bourgeois.
Cheval Blanc: hit...98...If the vintage was problematic in St-Emilion, there is no sign here because this is a near-perfect Cheval Blanc, which is beautifully balanced and precise, lush and silky as it fans out across the palate.
Haut-Brion: hit....99...a near perfect extraordinary and compelling wine. The most riveting attack of any of the first growths.
Lafite: hit...98...it is rich and powerful, but fresh, racy and superbly balanced, cool and aristocratic.
Mouton: hit...97...the most closed of all the firsts. Powerful, brooding, intense, rich and opulent.
Margaux: hit...99...a bit less accessible that a year and a half ago when it rose head and shoulders above the 2009. It is a brilliant wine and would be my pick of the firsts. Of course we did not try Latour. This has superb mouthfeel, perfect balance, elegance and presence.
D'Yquem: hit...98...rich layered and exotic with a very long luxurious finish. I tasted Climens straight after, and while the Climens was pleasant it was uninspiring and a bit flaccid in comparison.

Top 100 or so wines in Q3 2014

1. Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 1985
2. Gilles Barges Cote Rotie Du Plessis 1991
3. Domaine De La Romanee Conti La Tache 2008
4. Chateau Latour 1986
5. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1999
6. Chateau Montrose 1985
7. Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 60 2001
8. Fonseca 1963
9. Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2002
10. Moulin Touché 1986
11. Louis Jadot Corton Pougeots 1982
12. Jean Lionnet Cornas Rocherputuis 1998
13. Penfolds Bin 707 1997
14. Chateau Magdelaine 1988
15. Darviot-Perrin Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus 2004
16. Rossignol Trapet Chambertin 2009
17. Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Brico Boschis 2001
18. Rhys Skyline Pinot Noir 2008
19. Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2004
20. Chateau Certan De May 2001
21. Maume Charmes Chambertin 1997
22. Chateau Leoville Barton 2001
23. Antinori Masseto 1994
24. Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2002
25. Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2001
26. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2007
27. Raymond Lafon Sauternes 1988
28. Roagna Barbaresco Paje 2003
29. Ponsot Clos De La Roche Vieilles Vignes 1997
30. Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2012
31. Humbert Gevrey-Chambertin Poissonets 1999
32. Drouhin-Larose Bonnes Mares 2003
33. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes 2010
34. Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard 2008
35. Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000
36. Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard 2008
37. Rhys Pinot Noir Family Farm Vineyard 2008
38. Blain Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots 2012
39. Gagnard Delagrange Chassagne Montrachet Les Morgeots 2012
40. Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets 2012
41. Rhys Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard 2008
42. Maria Feyles Barbaresco Riserva 1985
43. Chateau La Lagune 2001
44. Rhys Alpine Chardonnay 2008
45. Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Les Ursules 2001
46. Krug Grand Cuvée
47. Chateau Leoville Barton 1988
48. Chateau Pape Clement (rouge)1990
49. Rhys Horseshoe Chardonnay 2009
50. Rhys Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2009
51. Chartron Trebuchet Chassagne Montrachet Les Embrazees 2012
52. Jean Monnier Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres 2012
53. Vincent Girardin Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers Des Dents de Chiens
54. Jamet Cote Rotie Fructus Voluptus 2010
55. Mugneret Gibourg Vosne Romanee 2002
56. Chateau Pichon Longueville-Baron 1988
57. Chateau Branaire Ducru 1983
58. Chateau Pape Clement (rouge)1988
59. Chateau Palmer 1985
60. Daniel Rion Nuits St-George's 1er Cru Les Lavieres 2007
61. Daniel Rion Nuits St-George's 1er Cru Haut Pruliers 2007
62. Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots 2007
63. Andre Perret Condrieu Chery 2012
64. Pira Barolo Marenca 2003
65. La Dame De Montrose 2005
66. The Wine Society Exhibition Hermitage Blanc Jean-Louis Chave 2009
67. Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1990
68. Chateau Berliquet 2001
69. Chartron Et Trebuchet Meursault 2012
79. Chateau Moulin St-George's 1998
71. Jean Monnier Meursault Charmes 2009
72. Paul Pillot Chassagne Montrachet Clos St-Jean 2012
73. Thibault Ligier Belair Haut Cotes De Nuits 2007
74. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Santenay Les Combes 2010
75. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Santenay Les Combes 2012
76. Chateau Grand Puy Ducases 2004
77. Chateau 1996 Lafon-Rochet 1996
78. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2008
79. Camile-Giroud Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2007
80. Chartron Et Trebuchet Chassagne Montrachet 2012
81. Chartron Et Trebuchet Puligny Montrachet 2012
82. Lafarge Volnay Clos Des Chenes 1998
83. Cantine Ascheri Barolo 2010
84. Le Petit Cheval 1999
85. Chateau Potensac 2000
86. Philippe Colin Chassagne Montrachet 2012
87. Baptiste Ponsot Rully 1er Cru Molesme 2012
88. Sassicaia 1995
89. Bonnefond Cote Rotie 2001
90. Chateau Poujeaux 2004
91. Daniel Rion Nuits Saints George's Les Grands Vignes 2004
92. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1994
93. Podere Castellinuzza Chianti Classico 2011
94. Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1995
95. Vidal Fleurie Cote-Rotie 2006
96. Chateau Leoville Barton 1994
97. Chateau Rouget 2001
98. Dominus 1991
99. The Wine Society Exhibition Sancerre Serge Lalou 2013
100. Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 1992
101. Chateau Pontet Canet 1994

Wines in July

Wines in July

Chateau Latour 1986

A deep colour with a classical albeit restrained Cabernet-infused Latour nose of lead pencil, minerals and some forest floor. On the palate it was medium to full bodied, dense and powerful. It is regal with a touch of austerity but a long authoritative finish. This wine has been criticised for falling short of the other Medoc first growths...I am not so sure about that...it is tremendously satisfying to drink now, and will last for another couple of decades. Another under-rated Latour along with the 1983, 1985 and 1988. 94

Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1990

Scrumptious, chewy and savoury, but it lacks a bit of grip on the mid-palate. You can tell this is a wine from a hot vintage with low acid. It doesn't have enough Cabernet gravitas and nervosity. It doesn't have the complexity of the 1989 either.mThis bottle was past its best and the 1989 leaves it trailing, though Cos in my experience is notorious for bottle variation. 90 points is giving it the benefit of the doubt.

Chateau Palmer 1985

It is a nice mature Palmer with hints of Margaux berries, sandalwood and cedar. It has a finely resolved palate with a hint of greeness on the back end. It is not the greatest 1985, nor in the top echelon of Palmers, but it has been drinking nicely for 20 years, and it is holding up just fine. 90

Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoreuses, 1985

An explosive, multifarious and multi-faceted wine. Thrilling and kaleidoscopic. Pyrotechnic even. At the same time it has a 'come hither' seductiveness, and seamless elegance.  It has power and precision in equal measure. 97

Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2002

This is in a good place but it will probably continue to evolve and improve. It has creamy lemon notes initially, then minerals, brine and sea shells. It is finely poised, powerful...and quite youthful, still resolving. It has a stern acidic cut and backbone, as you would expect. It also has a touch of sweetness and a hint of vanilla oak too, which will probably meld in to the wine over the next few years, but becomes more pronounced as the evening proceeds.  94 now, probably higher in ten years from now.

Maume Charmes Chambertin 1997

Garnet colour with red fruits, animale, earthiness, sous bois, evolving beautifully, nicely grippy on the mid-palate. Complex, captivating. Unpretentious and old fashioned. red burgundy as it should be. 93

Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000

Fully resolved and very accomplished, with cherry fruit, roses and tar, full bodied with a touch of sweetness and heat but nevertheless still elegant and poised.  A delicious Barolo for current drinking. 92

Mascarello Monprivato Barolo 2004

It is young but it is still open for business and hasn't closed down. Truffles, roses and tar on a smooth, seamless finish. It's pure, understated and complex. A worthy addition to any cellar. 93

Top wines in Q2 2014

Top 60 or so Wines of Q2 2014

Scores make no claims for accuracy, consistency or fairness

63. Clusel Roche Côte-Rotie 2001...91
62. Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997...91
61. Chateau Latour 1973...91
60. Toolangi Chardonnay 2011...91
59. Jean Monnier Meursault La Barre 2010...91
58. Couvent Des Jacobins 2012...91
57.  Antinori Ornellaia 1990...91
56. Bindi Composition Chardonnay 2011...91
55. Cyril Henschke 2000...91
54. Chateau Rieussec 1989...91
53. Chateau Suduiraut 1989 (en magnum)...91
52. Jamet Côte Rotie 2006...91
51. Patrick Javillier Meursault Tillets 2010...91
50. Bindi Quartz Chardonnay 2011...91
49.Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2010 ...91
48. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie Cuvée Classique Ampodium 2005...91
47. Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1erCru Les Chenevottes 2011...91
46. Chateau Pape Clement 1990...91
45. Jasmin Côte Rotie 1980...91
44. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1994...91
43. Domaine Maroslavac-Leger Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres 2012...91
42. Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Des Murees 2010...91
41. Chateau Palmer 1970...91
. Trimbach Clos Saint-Hune 1993
40. Hermitage La Chapelle 1988 (en magnum)...91
39. Michel & Stefane Ogier Cote-Rotie 1997...91
38. Chave Hermitage Blanc 1997...91
37. Gilles Barges Cote-Rotie Cuvée Du Plessy 2001...91
36. Jean Lionnet Cornas Domaine De Rochepertuis 1998...91
35. Ceretto Barolo Bricco Roche, 2010...92
34. Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon 1994...92
33. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1990...92
32. Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrieres 2011...92
31. Jean Monnier Meursault Genevrieres 2010...92
30. Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tete du Clos 2012...92
29. Nada Fiorenzo Barbaresco Rombone 2005...92
28. PYCM Chassagne Les Chenevottes 2007...92
27.  Perret Condrieu Chery 2011...93
26. Chateau Climens 1988...93
25. Chateau Raymond-Lafon 1988...93
24. Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2011...93
23. Antinori Masetto 1994...93
22. Chateau Leoville-Barton 1989...93
21. Chateau Magdelaine 1988...93
20. Michel & Stefane Ogier Cote-Rotie 1999...93
19. Chateau Haut-Brion 1975...93
18. Chateau Montrose 1989...94
17. Roberto Voerzio Barbera Riserva Pozzo dell'Annunziata 2010...94
16. Castello Di Nieve Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 2007...94
15. Chateau Moulin St-Georges1998 (half)...94
14. Chateau Pape Clement Blanc 1996...94
13. Chateau Lynch-Bages 1989...95
12. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1996...95
11. Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2010...95
10. Chateau Grand-Puy Lacoste 1996...96
9. Jasmin Cote-Rotie 1985...96
8. Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1985...96
7. Roberto Voerzio Barolo Riserva Fossati Case Nere 2004...96
6. Ceretto, Barbaresco Bernadot, 2000...96
5. Ceretto Barolo Cannubi, San Lorenzo, 2004...6
4. Ceretto Barolo Prapo 1990...96
3. Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra 2010...97
2. Penfolds Bin 90A...97
1. Coche-Dury Meursault 2007...97

Recent wines

Tasting notes

Chateau Montrose 1989

Pretty close to full maturity with more leathery notes than a few years ago. On the palate there is a lot going on: it has notes of iron, iodine and other minerals, overlaid with soy, spices and dark chocolate. It has rasping metallic edge, and perhaps lacks the smoothness and the mid-palate density of some really great wines. Still it is a marvellous complex wine, which should drink well for another ten years. Superb though it is, it has now been overtaken by Cos D'Estournel 1989, which has that extra dimension of class. 93

Penfolds Bin 90 A

A wine based primarily on Coonawarra Cabernet, with some Barossa Shiraz thrown in the mix. Mixing Cabernet and Syrah/Shiraz rarely works, but it does here, with the Cabernet fruit dominating. This wine is fully mature, and has wonderful depth and purity of fruit. It is rich, tarry and ethereal with wave after wave of cool fruit with mint and eucalyptus overlaid with mushrooms and truffles. It is an absolutely thrilling wine at its apogee. 96

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Classy cool berry fruit coats the palate, with menthol, vanilla and woodsy notes, but this is nicely resolved with medium acidity and reasonable grip. It is a little high in alcohol (14%) and this shows on the finish, and it lacks the exquisite balance and class of Pichon Lalande 1996 tasted alongside, but it is a lovely wine. 91

Pichon Lalande 1996

Cool minerals and cherry notes, linear and precise but at the same time dense and powerful on the mid palate, lead pencil, earthiness, cedar and minerals, still quite tannic and youthful. Still on the upslope. 94

Ornellaia 1990

Soft, round, plush, elegant and quite classy. This is fully resolved, and is understated but quite delicious. It just lacks a bit of excitement and the complexity you would find in a first or second growth Medoc in the same vintage. 91

Clusel Roch Cote-Rotie 2001

Precise and linear with a firm acidic backbone. Some secondary woodsy notes are starting to appear, but It needs food and a bit more time to show at its best. It has all the requisite ingredients. 91

Eric Texier Hermitage 2007

Surprisingly forward and fruity, with lashings of vanilla oak, which rather undermines the overall enjoyment. This could use some more time for the oak to integrate, but the oak seems to be over done. 87

Jean Monnier, Meursault Genevrieres 2010

Thick, lush, juicy, full-bodied and powerful, with a dense mid-palate and a fair bit of oak. Still it is a delicious wine. Could easily pass for a Batard Montrachet. 92

Domaine Serge Lalou, Sancerre Cuvée Silex 2012

Laser-like focus, crisp acidity and Sauvignon fruit, gooseberries and flinty mineral notes. It is a good wine but becomes tiring after a while. 88

Chateau Moulin St-Georges 1998

Drunk from half bottle this is perfectly resolved and delicious St-Emilion, with captivating truffle, sous bois and woodsy notes. 93

Bindi Composition Chardonnay 2011

Tight, restrained, powerful, with a dense mid palate and a long lush finish. The oak and alcohol are carefully kept in check. Australia's finest Chardonnay? I wouldn't argue with that. All it needs is some personality. 92.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006

Shy nose with some spicey notes. On the palate it is smooth and discreet. It is understated, and frankly underwhelming. While pleasant to drink, silky and smooth it has no oomph, and little excitement. 88

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2011

A beautifully crafted wine. Quite shy on the nose but it has a superb palate, which is as smooth as velvet, but grippy and discreetly powerful at the same time. It finishes long and luxuriously. Much better than the 2006. 92

Segla 2008

Superb for a second wine in an under-rated vintage. This has quite a reticent nose, but it glides over the palate like a cashmere scarf, and really is a class act. 90

Segla 2009

Quite full bodied and low in acidity. It is already drinking very well and is a superficially attractive wine. But at the end of the day it is lacking in stuffing and personality. The 2008 is a better wine. 87

Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996

This bottle was really singing and firing in all cylinders. Medium rather than full bodied it is dominated by gorgeous, cool Cabernet fruit, a superb mouth feel, exquisite balance and a deliciously lingering finish. 96

Patrick Javiller Meursault Les Tillets 2010

Luscious, beautiful and poised. 92

Patrick Javiller Meursault Les Tillets 2011

A light colour and a light wine for a Meursault. Refreshing, crisp and vibrant, but not quite up to this producer's impeccably high standards. Well short of the 2010. 88

Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2011

Vibrant, citrus fruits, excellent. 91

Coche Dury Meursault

Racy citrus and white peach notes, very racy and poised, with wonderful mouthfeel, presence and finish. Just extraordinary, especially for a village wine. 97

Sassicaia 1995

Fully mature, soft and cuddly with mature notes of shoe polish and leather on entry overlaid with more complex and alluring truffle, mushroom and woodsy notes. This is the wines strong suit. On the palate it is pleasant enough but showing early signs of drying out. This needs to be drunk up, but is still a very pleasant glass of claret substitute. 89

Top wines in Q1 2014

My top wines in Q1 2014

40. Le Petit Cheval 1999

39. Chateau Lafon Rochet 1996

38. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1978
37. Clusel Roche Condrieu Verchery 2010

36. Penfolds Grange 1991

35.  Philipponnat Champagne Grand Blanc  Brut 1988

34.  Penfolds Grange 1996

33. Tenuta  San Guido  Sassicaia 1997

32.  Tenuta  Dell'Ornellaia Ornellaia 1990

31. Pira Barolo Vigna Marenca 2003

30. Roagna Barbaresco Paje 2003

29. Chateau Belair, St-Emilion, 2004

28. Humbert Gevret Chambertin Poissonets 1999

27.  Mugneret Gibourg Vosne Romanee 2002

26., Penfolds Bin 707 1997

25. Chateau Palmer 1986

24. Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino 1997

23. Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 1986

22. Marchese  Di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga 2001

21. Chateau Haut-Bailly 1998

20. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2007

19. Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011

18. Chateau Leoville-Barton 2002

17. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996

16.Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet Les Murees 2010

15.  Noel Verset Cornas 1995

14. Antinori Solaia 1988

13.  Ceritas Chardonnay Porter Bass 2009

12. Chateau Rieussec 2001 

11. Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Masetto 1994

10. Chave Hermitage 1989

9. Penfolds Grange 1983

8. Penfolds Grange 1975

7.  Penfolds Grange 1986

6. Penfolds Grange 1992

5.  Grange Hermitage 1982

4.  Chateau  Cos D'Estournel 1989

3.  Noel Verset Cornas 1990

2.  Jamet Cote-Rotie 2010

1. Penfolds Grange 1985

Penfolds Grange dinner at the Ledbury

A magnificent dinner at the Ledbury restaurant in Notting Hill, last Wednesday the 22nd January. Currently a Michelin two star, on this showing it won't be long before it gets its third star.

To start: 

Kangaroo Scotch Egg, 
Cheese and Vegemite on Toast

Grilled Scottish Langoustine 
with Caramelised Sourdough and Blood Orange


1988 Philipponnat, Grand Blanc, Brut 
(Disgorged 2007) 

Pale, youthful looking, fresh, lively, lifted vibrant; very refined

We raised our glasses in memory of Chris Longstaff. 



First course:

Roast Breast of Quail with Chestnut Cream, 
Chanterelles and Thyme


1975 Penfolds Grange 

Remarkably youthful opaque colour, this started out quite slowly despite having been double decanted four hours earlier, it unfurled and improved over the evening and really began to sing. A magnificent bottle! Still on the young side with subtle animal (?) and minty notes, this is a somewhat restrained rendition of Penfolds Grange. It is medium-full bodied and has years left. Drink now-2040. 

1982 Penfolds Grange 

A more expressive, sweeter attack, even with some porty notes. On the palate it was ripe, rich and opulent with dark chocolate notes. A much more exuberant style of Grange. Absolutely exquisite. Drink now-2045.

1983 Penfolds Grange

More pronounced menthol and eucalyptus notes, from a very hot vintage this showed extremely well, but did not quite have the exquisite refinement and balance of its flight mates, but is still absolutely splendid. Drink now-2050. 


Second course:

Loin of Hare with Rhubarb, Black Pepper and Baked Carrots


1985 Penfolds Grange

This is a cool, silky, svelte, perfectly judged Grange. It has the power and will last for decades, but the emphasis here is on finesse and refinement. It has a zenlike finish. Probably my wine of the night, or equal with the 1982. Drink now-2050. 

1986 Penfolds Grange 

The 1986 is a more powerful, brutal and expressive wine than the 1985. It has trademark Barossa bush-viney notes with added weedy, piped tobacco. On the palate is full-bodied, dense, brooding and powerful. While this can be drunk with enormous pleasure now this wine is still evolving and has decades left. Drink now-2060. 

1988 Penfolds Grange 

The only wine which was possibly faulty, sensitive noses picked up some cork taint, but the wine held together extremely well all night. It lacked the smoothness and finesse of the 1985 and the power of the 1986, but on its own is still an impressive wine. Drink now-2050. 



Third course:

Fillet of Belted Galloway Beef with Root Vegetables, 
Black Truffle and Pine


1991 Penfolds Grange 

This had been open for 15 hours, but it was still quite brooding and backward. This has all the elements to evolve into a great wine, but I found it to be slightly awkward and lacking in charm, especially next to the 1992. Drink 2020-2070.

1992 Penfolds Grange

Clearly a young wine, which has only just entered its drinking window, but it is absolutely fabulous. I wish I owned this rather than the 1991. Drink now-2070. 

1996 Penfolds Grange

The youngest, biggest and most powerful wine on the slate last night. A colossus. A wine for your grandchildren. I was more in awe of this wine than in love with it. This wine could easily last 100 years and will not be fully ready for another 15. It is also synonymous with Penfolds Grange becoming bigger, more powerful, more monolithic over time as other monstrosities compete to take its mantle. Grange is still peerless in Australian wine. Drink 2030-2100. 


Dessert: 

Pear Cooked in Brown Butter with Walnut, 
Beremeal and Caramelised Goat’s Milk


2001 Château Rieussec, Fargues, Bordeaux

From a half bottle. Fresh, lifted, rich and concentrated and poised with a cool, languid finish. 



What are the conclusions? Penfolds Grange is every bit as great as its reputation suggests. The wines have a timeless quality about them, and will last for decades. The older the better. No other Australian wine comes close. 

Grange is simply one of the greatest wines in the world. It is as good as Chateau Latour, or the Guigal La-La's. 

The table voted the 1982, 1985 as wines of their flights with the 1992 and 1996 sharing honours in the last flight.

The table voted the 1975 and 1982 as the best wines of the night.


I bracketed the wines in to three layers, with the pecking order in each layer:

First tier: 1985, 1982, 1975 – 97/98 points?
Second tier: 1992, 1983, 1986 – 95 points?
Third tier: 1991, 1996, 1988 – 92/93 points?

A wine for New Year's Eve

A delightful and fully resolved bottle of Mouton with the accent on elegance rather than raw power. The nose is also less exuberant than other vintages of Mouton with red berries, woodsy notes and hints of cedar, mint and tobacco. On the palate it is medium bodied, suave, elegant and complex, and the tannins are fully resolved. The mid-palate is deceptively rich and powerful but the emphasis is much more on elegance. This wine has developed some musty church pew, and old leather armchair notes, which suggests to me that it is approaching the end of its drinking window. Like many other 1983 clarets this will not make old bones. But it is wonderful now, and a rare opportunity to drink a fully resolved Mouton.