2017 top 100 wines

RANK	WINE	COMMENT
100	Ch. Lafite Rothschld 2001	Come back in 10-20 years when it will be top ten
99	Ch. Latour 1996	Ditto
98	Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque 1987	On song as good as it will get
97	Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion 2004	Promising but come back in 5-10 years
96	Ch. Haut-Brion 1997	Splendid now, unlikely to improve
95	Ch. La Lagune 1989/90	Evenly matched examples of mature La Lagune
94	Ch. Cantenac Brown 1966/96	Opposite ends of the age spectrum, both impressive
93	Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou 1986	Honest, it could have been great; merely excellent
92	Ch. Beychevelle 1989	Benchmark for this estate
91	Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf Du Pape Cuvee Marier Beurrier 1998	Unfairly smote by Grange 1998 - a lovely wine though
90	Ch. Grillet 1993	Revelatory
88	Ch. Cantermerle 1996	A star in a great left bank vintage
87	Domaine De Chevalier (Rouges) 1998	Super Graves vintage and in a perfect place
86	Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Morgeots 2014	A baby with superb potential
85	Domaine De La Bongran Thevenet Macon Clesse Cuvee Botrytis 2004	A surprise package - super dessert wine
84	Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2010	Class and fab but  a bit of heat on the back
83	Ch. Leoville Barton 1999	Restraint and class shines in a so-so vintage
82	Jasmin Cote Rotie 1999	Great promise, give it 5-10 years
81	Ch. Pichon Baron 2008	A worthy foil to the nine and ten
80	Domaine De Chevalier (Rouges) 1996	Has now shed its tannic cloke and worth the wait
79	Ch. Beychevelle 2000	Still quite primary, a fine Beychevelle
78	Rene Engel Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Brulees 1999	Still brusque but thrilling drinking head
77	Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clos De Mouchere 2010	Exudes class
76	Ch. La Conseillante 1959	Timeless restrained elegance
75	Bernard Boisson-Vadot Meursault "Les Chevaliers" 2012	A great find but difficult to find…
74	Grivot Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2002	Flawless package, smooth and ready
73	Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin 2001	Not quite ready but enormous potential
72	Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1996	Old fashioned burgundy with gusto
71	Ch. Mouton Rothschild 1989	Elegance, restraint and class
70	Renato Ratti Barolo Conca 2010	Fabulous modern barolo
69	Ponsot Clos De La Roche Vieilles Vignes 1997	Perfectly a point
68	Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2000	Diaphanous
67	Pierre Morey Meursault Perrieres 1988	Stunning aromatic complexity
66	Ch. Cantermerle 1989	Consistently punches above its weight
65	Sorrel Hermitage (Blanc) Les Recoules 2009	Lush, lux but serious
64	Ch. Leoville Lascases 1996	Surpriisngly laid back, classic, classy
63	Ch. Cos D'Estournel 1988	Perfectly resolved advert for the vintage
62	Ch. Lafite-Rothschild 2007	Atypically approachable, but proper Lafite
61	Giacosa Barolo Castello Di Castliglione 1996	Juicy, earthy, intense
60	Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999	Super ripe full throttle barolo
59	Pavillon Rouge 2004	Easily passes for Chateau Margaux
58	Ch. Pichon Baron 2009	Step up from cool vintages, but can't match the ten
57	Domaine Chave St-Joseph 2005	Sheer brilliance, fine future
56	Daniel Rion Clos Vougeot 2011	Lithe
55	Penfolds Bin 707 1996	Stunningly pure mature SA cab
54	Ch. Margaux 2001	More accessible than Lafite 01
53	Vietti Barolo Villero 1990	Beautiful after VA blew off
52	Ch. Coutet 2014	Simply brilliant, and drinking well now
51	Ch. Mouton-Rothschild 1996	Like the 1989 but with more mid-palate punch
50	Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano 1996	Distinctive and now ready
49	Ch. Pontet Canet 2005	Towering, one for the ages
48	Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1990	Timeless and seamless
47	Ch. Lynch-Bages 1978	A brilliant bottle from an under-rated vintage
46	Ch. Vieux Chateau Certan 1998	Rich with waves of pleasure, best yet to come
45	Ch. Pape Clement Blanc 1999	Always scintillating
44	La Pousse D'Or Clos De La Bousse D'Or 1993	Understated brilliance, now perfectly resolved
43	Ch. Leoville-Barton 2004	Arguably first growth quality
42	Gorelli Brunello Di Montalcino Il Pottazzine 2012	A revelation, puts Brunello back on my map
41	Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 1999	Finely honed
40	Ch. Talbot 2010	So delicious and accessible now, whilst classic Talbot
39	Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chinieri 2013	Enthralling young Barolo, lithe and light on its feet
38	Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda 2010	Towering; a formidable future
37	Ch. Pontet Canet 2009	That extra pizazz to eclipse the 2005
36	Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Meursault Perrieres 2011	Thrilling future, drink over 2-3 days
35	Gaja Barbaresco 1990	Exhiliarating now, long future
34	Ch. Rauzan-Segla 2010	Like the Talbot another delicious, accessible 2010
33	Azelia Barolo Riserva Bricco Vaghera 2001	Complex, pleasurable very fine matue barolo
32	Ch. Montrose 2003	Now fully mature, pleasurable
31	Ch. Gruaud-Larose 1985	A wine at its peak when the estate was at its peak
30	Ch. La Conseillante 2012	Stood out among the 2016s
29	Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1996	Showstopping finish
28	Ch. Leoville Barton 1985	Quintessential glass of fine mature claret
27	Giacosa Barbaresco 1990	Pure, rich, fruity, mature, fine
26	Kiralyudvar Tokaji 6 putonoyos 1999	Wonderful mocha and chocolate-infused palate
25	Daniel Rion Echezeaux 2010	Pure, dense, rich, racy
24	Ch. Beaucastel 'Hommage' 1990	Distinctive thrilling Mouvedre
23	Ch. Mouton Rothschild 2000	Elegant, destined for greatness
22	Gaja Barbaresco 1989	A nose ahead of the 1990
21	Coche Dury Meursault 2012	Profoundly compelling as always
20	Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina 1989	Mature complex exhiliarating
19	Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 1970	Extraordinary bottle
18	Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2013	Benchmark for a barolo vintage which has everything
17	Ch. Leoville Lascases 2012	Easily first growth quality, atypically accessible
16	Ch. Beaucastel 1978	Gorgeous, stunning; best Beaucastel I have tried
15	Ch. Pichon Baron 2005	Runs the 2010 very close
14	Ch. Lafite Rothschild 1981	Exudes understated refinement and gravitas
13	Ch.Ducru Beaucaillou 1995	A revelation in 2017
12	Ch. Pichon Baron 2010	Benchmark for Baron and 2010 Bordeaux
11	Ch. Montrose 2010	Benchmark for Montrose and 2010 Bordeaux
10	Ch. Leoville-Lascases 1988	With the 85, the 'go to' LLC for current drinking
9	Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot 1990	Kaleidoscopic magical mystery tour
8	Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino 1990	Needs five hours, legendary old school Barolo
7	Penfolds Grange 1998	Grange at its best; compelling now
6	JF Mugnier Musigny 2005	Perfection in the making
5	DRC Richebourg 2004	Imperious, already broachable
4	Ch. Figeac 1982	Understated perfection; prelude to Deep Purple
3	Ch. Lynch-Bages 1982	Best ever experience with Lynch-Bages
2	DRC La Tache 1996	Greatness in the making, give it 5-10 years
1	Ch. Cheval Blanc 1985	Elegance and complexity which is unmatched

Six days in burgundy and 130 wines

I was planning to dash down to burgundy in Jan/Feb to stock up and I cheekily asked Alex if I could join him and his burgundy aficionado friend Ian Westcott from Melbourne on their annual pilgrimage to the hallowed turf. 

I have never spent more than a few days in burgundy - I am usually en route somewhere else or en route back - so this trip was an eye opener. My mother who is in hospital urged me to go, which was some consolation for missing BWE '17. 

Burgundian winemakers are justly proud of what they have and what they have achieved - not just because they are blessed with some of the most extraordinary terroir on the planet, but also through unstinting dedication and commitment. 

Nobody understands burgundy better than they do. Some critics understand burgundy better than others, and some have rightly had their sorry asses run right out of town.

Comte Flâneur Star Rating 

1/2 - awful; * poor; *1/2 mediocre; ** not bad; ** 1/2 quite good; *** good;  ***1/2 very good; **** excellent; ****1/2 outstanding;  ***** magnificent;  *****1/2 astonishing;  ****** extraordinary

Scores with brackets (-) implies scope for improvement with age

Saturday

We stopped off on the way down and drank:

Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2014 ****

Coche Dury Meursault 2012 *****

Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques 2010 ***(**)

The Coche was thick textured. I prefer the racier 2011, but it is nonetheless a remarkably brilliant wine. But do we over rate it? Arguably the price gap with other good wines from the commune is unjustified. With the CSJ we could have chosen a 2011 or 12 which probably would have shown a bit more. 

Sunday

We had lunch at Ian's gite in Meursault with two growers and their wives. Also attending were Alex, Maureen and the irrepressible Greg Love. It was a memorable occasion. Ian supplied more than his fair share including the champagnes, which I don't get too excited about, and the grand Cru red burgundies - plenty of reason to be excited. The fact that the Mugnier Musigny 2005 was sheer perfection was less surprising than the fact that it was (just about) ready to drink. I reckon with 10-20 years it will show even more complexity. Patrick Essa and Jean-Marc Pillot not only make top notch wines but are brilliant blind tasters, nailing the GCs. At Alex's suggestion I threw in two kiwi wines, one a '100 pointer' (Bob Campbell), and they acquitted themselves well. Patrick and Jean-Marc were politely respectful and complimentary on both. 

Champagne Pertois Lebrun Exaltation **

Champagne Larmardier Bernie 1996 **1/2 

Champagne Sugot-Feneuil **

Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 2014 ***1/2

Boisset-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Bouche Cheres 2013 ****

Boisset-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Les Tessons ****

Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay 2014 ***1/2

Coesens Couteaux Champenois 2014 *1/2

Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2012 ***

Boisson-Charles Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 2014 ***(*)

Jean Marc-Pillot Chassagne Montrachet (Rouge) 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean 2015 ***(*)

Jean Raphet Clos De La Roche 1999 ****

Frederic Esmonin Chambertin Clos De Beze 1998 ****1/2

Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2005 *****(*)

Camille-Giroud Grand Cru Corton Le Clos Du Roi 2007 ***

Fourier Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combes Aux Moines 1995 ***

Chateau Belair, St-Emilion, 2000 ****

Monday

The first appointment was with the perfectly attired, witty and sharp Jacques Seysess who founded Domaine Dujac in 1968. His 15s show enormous promise and the 1996 Clos De La Roche is fully resolved and a thrill to drink. In the afternoon we visited Pascale Rion who show-cased her excellent 2014s. 

Dujac Chambolle Musigny 2015 **(*)

Dujac Morey Saint Denis 2015 ***(*)

Dujac Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers 2015 **(**)

Dujac Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Malconsorts 2015 **(**1/2)

Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2015 ****(*)

Dujac Clos De La Roche 2015 ***(**)

Dujac Bourgogne Blanc 2015 **

Dujac Clos De La Roche 1996 *****

Daniel Rion Bourgogne Rouge 2014 **1/2

Daniel Rion Cote De Nuits Villages 2014 ***

Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Lavieres 2014 ***

Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Grand Vignes 2014 ***

Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2014 ***1/2

Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vigne Rondes 2014 ***1/2

Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 2014 ***1/2 

Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2014 ****

Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes 2014 ****

Daniel Rion Echezeaux 2014 ****1/2

Daniel Rion Clos Vougeot 2014 ****1/2

Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes 2008 ***1/2

Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Les Encegnieres 2014 ***

Tuesday

A cold miserable day, and freezing cold cellars. Bertrand Chevillon's wines are simply top drawer. My favourite was Cailles, which has that bit extra finesse. After lunch in Le Milliseme we headed across the road to Frederic Mugnier, which was a memorable treat. I guess you could say his Amoureuses is a wine to kill for and his '15 Musigny may match his '05. Then we headed out to the back of beyond in Haut-Cotes Du Nuits to visit the erudite David Duband. The wines started off slow and stalky, but rose inexorably to a grand cru crescendo. Pruliers came up trumps several times on this trip, and Duband's was rich and scintillating. 

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 2015 **(*1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chaignots 2015 **(*1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Bousselots 2015 **(*1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Roncieres 2015 **(*1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Perriers 2015 **(*1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2015 **(**)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Cailles 2015 **(**1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Saints Georges 2015 **(**1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 2015 **(**1/2)

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 2014 **(**)

Jules Desjourneys L'Interdit (Beaujolais) 2008 * 1/2

Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 2015 ***(*1/2)

Frederic Mugnier Nuits Saints Georges Clos De La Marechale 2015 ***(*)

Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Fuee 2015 ***(*1/2)

Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny Les Amoreuses 2015 ****(*)

Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2015 ****(*1/2)

Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2015 ****(*)

Frederic Mugnier Nuits Saint Georges Clos De La Marechale Blanc 2015 ***

Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2014 ****(*)

David Duband Haut Cotes De Nuits 2015 *(*)

David Duband Gevrey Chambertin 2015 *(*1/2)

David Duband Morey Saint Denis 2015 **(*)

David Duband Vosne Romanee 2015  **(*)

David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 2015 **(*)

David Duband Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Broc 2015 ***(*)

David Duband Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbe 2015 ***(*)

David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey 2015  ***(*1/2)

David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2015 ***(*1/2)

David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Proces 2015 ***(*)

David Duband Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2015 ***(*)

David Duband Exchezeaux 2015 ***1/2(*)

David Duband Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)

David Duband Latricieres Chambertin 2015 ***1/2(*)

David Duband Chambertin 2015 ****(*)

David Duband Vosne Romanee 2010 ***

David Duband Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Sorbes 2008 ****

Wednesday

Romain Taupenot welcomed us on a cold Wednesday morning. I really loved his saline Auxey, which thrived in 2015, but this was a strong showing across the board. Maybe his More Delphic Mayozeres edged out his Charmes but they were both sublime. After lunch we were welcomed by the effusive Patrice Rion, a different personality to his sister a couple of hundred metres down the road. Patrice is focused on energy efficiency and attention to detail especially during bottling and has become a hot property. His Villages NSG and Argillieres were very good indeed, and his lacy Amoureuses was to die for. Domaine Poissot in Corton was the last visit. His Corton Charlemagne from 70-year old vines is one of the best I have tried. His RSV is arguably on the best plot in that vineyard just across from Romanee Conti: power, class, elegance, complexity.

Taupenot Merme Auxey Duress 1er Cru 2015 ***(1/2)

Taupenot Merme Chambolle Musigny 2015 **(*)

Taupenot Merme Gevrey Chambertin 2015 **(*)

Taupenot Merme Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru Riottes 2015 ***(*)

Taupenot Merme Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2015 ***(*)

Taupenot Merme Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)

Taupenot Merme Mayozeres Chambertin 2015 ****(*)

Domaine Du Clos De Fees Cotes Du Roussillon Villages 2012 *

Patrice Rion Bourgogne Rouge 2015 *(*)

Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 2015 *1/2(*)

Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 2015 **(*)

Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 2015 ***(*)

Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers 2015 ***(*)

Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees 2015 ***(*)

Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2015 ****(*)

Patrice Rion Vougeot Les Cras 2015 **(*)

Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Villages **1/2(*)

Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Les Argillieres 2015 ***(*)

Patrice Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Clos Saint Marc Monopole 2015 ***(*)

Patrice Rion Bonnes Mares ****(*)

Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Terres Blanches 2015 ***1/2

Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Terres Blanches 2014 ***1/2

Domaine Poisot Pernand Vergelesses Blanc 2015 **(*)

Domaine Poisot Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradoux Rouge 2015 **(*)

Domaine Poisot Corton Charlemagne 2014 ****(*)

Domaine Poisot Corton Charlemagne 2015 ****(*)

Domaine Poisot Corton Bressandes 2015 ***(*1/2) 

Domaine Poisot Corton Bressandes 2014 ***(*)

Domaine Poisot Romanee Saint Vivant 2015 ***(**1/2)

Domaine Poisot Romanee Saint Vivant 2014 ***(**)

Patrice Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Clos Saint Marc Monopole 2008 **(*)

Daniel Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2008 ****

Thursday

On Thursday we had two very enjoyable tastings with Domaines Bichot and Faiveley, which are not only slick marketing operations but turnout more than decent wines. Bichot's whites were marvellous, while the Clos De Cortons was the pick of the Faiveley bunch. Both are a huge presence in NSG. We had a picnic lunch next to Romanee Conti with pate and champagne to celebrate Ian's birthday. It was only three degrees centigrade, but it was comforting to know that Donald Trump could only afford to buy a few square metres for cash. Otoh Vladimir Putin could probably afford to buy the whole 1.8 hectares. 

Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Secret De Famille 2014 **

Albert Bichot Pommard Clos Des Ursines Monopole - Domaine Du Pavillon 2013 **(*)

Albert Bichot Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chateau Gris - Monopole 2012 ***(1/2)

Albert Bichot Clos De Vougeot, Domaine du Clos Frantin 2011 ***(*)

Albert Bichot Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins - Domaine Long-Depaquit 2015 ***1/2

Albert Bichot Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne - Domaine Long-Depaquit 2014 ****

Albert Bichot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - Domaine Du Pavillon 2014 ***1/2

Albert Bichot Corton Charlemagne - Domaine Du Pavillon 2014 ****1/2

Champagne Francois Chaumont Blanc De Blancs **

Roses De Jeanne Champagne Cote De Val Vilaine **

Domaine Duroche Gevrey Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois 2014 ****

Domaine Faiveley Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots 2015 ***(1/2)

Domaine Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2015 ***(*)

Domaine Faiveley Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)

Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos Des Cortons 2015 ****(*)

Domaine Faiveley Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain 2015 ***(1/2)

Domaine Faiveley Corton Charlemagne ***1/2(*)

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthal Rully 2014 ***

Thierry et Pascale Matrot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux 2010 ****

Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin La Justice ***

La Maison Romane Fixin Les Clos 2014 **1/2 wines drunk last week