1980s Bordeaux from' non trophy' vintages

This was the fourth autumn Bordeaux themed tasting and in my opinion the third best. I thought the best one was the 1989 horizontal in 2009, followed by the 1986 horizontal in 2008.

This might be my last because I am moving back to London around the end of the month. But I still hope to be involved in a 1982 horizontal somewhere next year.

Flight 1: Right banks

Château Canon 1985

Pretty disappointing and flat, some thought it was corked but it was just dull and a bit tired. In our Eisch glasses this was clearly not corked and more expressive than in Riedels. But still dull. 1 ½ stars

Château Belair 1985

Mysterious old style dusty nose, earthy and tobacco notes; very old school and unobtrusive; no need to analyse this one to drink by the fire in your Shangri-La. 3 stars

Vieux Château Certan 1988

Served a bit too warm, but this was more lively and structured with alluring tobacco notes allied to dark fruits and cedar, drinking very well but unlike the 85s here no need to drink up. Outstanding, and deservedly wine of the flight. 5 stars


Flight 2: Margaux 83s

Château Rausan-Ségla 1983

Really interesting attack which was aggressive, carnal and animal. It was broad, mouth filling and silky on the palate (in contrast to the Brane below) and the finish. Not very polished but really alive with meaty notes. 4 stars

Château Brane-Cantenac 1983

Vibrant colour, this had a similar animal gamey attack with tobacco notes, but was thinner on the mid palate, like a skinny fox. One felt that this could let go at any time. Interesting but not great. Drink up. 2 ½ stars

The table was divided on these, and the vote was split down the middle.


Flight 3: 1985s

Château Cos d'Estournel 1985

I’ve had this many times down the years and this does suffer from bottle variation and there was something not right about this. This wine also divided opinions. Don’t think it was corked because it had some trademark aromatics but it was disjointed. 2 stars

Château Gruaud Larose 1985

The nose alone is worth the price of admission and this one had more substance than usual on the mid palate and the finish. Really resolved and at the top of its game with the perfect amount of Cordier funk. A fabulous bottle of claret and wotf. 5 stars


Flight 4: Pichon Lalande

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1981

This was also in the perfect spot (where it has been for some time). Savoury green notes allied to tertiary aromas of forest floor, smooth polished, delightful and satisfying. No sign of tiredness, just a great bottle. 5 stars

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1983

This had a roasted espresso note which was not to everyone’s liking but I loved. Similar to the 1981 but not quite as expressive or focused. 4 ½ stars

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1988

Very similar to the 1981, just as funky and polished but with a little bit more mineral and graphite thrown in; very seamless and complex. Edged out the 1981 for wotf. Terrific stuff 5 ½ stars


Flight 5: First growths

Château Margaux 1981

This takes the game to an even higher level – you marvel at this wine’s purity, dexterity, finesse and gravitas in an understated and discreet delivery. Subtle notes of berries, plums and flowers. A great bottle purchased from Changi Airport duty free in the mid 1990s. 6 stars

Château Mouton Rothschild 1987

I knew this could be great and would be the dark horse. Just simply brilliant from the trademark Mouton nose of cedar and soy through the silky and seamless mid palate. This is just perfect now. Also dextrous with great depth and purity. 6 stars

Château Mouton Rothschild 1988

This is finally starting to show its promise. By far the best bottle (though not tried this since 2006). Still a little tight but unfurled majestically. Has more power and density than the 1987, and will reach greater heights. It is starting to show great complexity lacking in earlier showings. This will be a great Mouton. 6+ stars

The 1987 was voted wotf


Flight 6: 1988s

Château Gruaud Larose 1988

Cut from similar cloth as the 1985 but this is more austere and structured – not necessarily a bad thing. It is drinking beautifully. Another superb bottle. Gruaud was on fire in the 1980s. 5 stars

Château Pape Clément 1988

This bottle lacked a bit of precision on the palate after the trademark Graves nose... Slightly disappointing in the context of other bottles I’ve had of this. 3 ½ stars


Flight 7: Ringers/mystery wines

Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1985

Diffuse, soft and a bit tired 2 stars

Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve 1980

Falling apart at the seams and frankly a bit of a mess 1 ½ stars


Dessert wines

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1988

Burnt orange, with overwhelming aromas of sweet apricots and other exotic fruits. Beautifully structured and balanced. Perfect acidity. A beautiful, beautiful wine. 5 stars

Chateau Coutet 2007

A little bit too young and primary and lacked a bit of acidic cut and zip. 3 stars


The Mouton 1987 was voted wine of the night followed by the Pichon 88 and Margaux 81

My wotn was the Margaux, followed by the two Moutons 88 then 87

Wines of the week October 2009

First up,

A trimverate of 2001 barolos:

They were all triumphant the Voerzio the most extreme, modern, but if I had to pick a winner it would be the Aldo Conterno Colonnnello 2001, absolutely sublime barolo.

These two - gosh

The Lucien Boillot Pomard 1er Cru Premiers 1993 - horsey (not bretty) meat initially carved out of granite stone, the 93s take no prisoners, quintessential red burgundy - just going really tertiary on me now, year of intrigue, preasures and wonders

Ceritas Ritchie 09 - lets just say it is my dirty little secret and like Anne Elks theory of the Brontosaurus is mine because its mine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_0FtTlwZsE