Tuesday 31 December 2013

The 2013 top 100

This is the list of my top 100 wines in 2013. It was a brilliant year for wine drinking. One of the best ever. The top half a dozen wines were consumed in and around my 50th birthday, and will always remain etched in my memory. 

By country 89% are French, 7% are Italian, 2% Australian and one each Spain and Portugal.  

Of the total 51% are from Bordeaux (57% of the French wine), 20% from Burgundy (22%), 16% from the Rhone (18%) and 2% from other regions (one Alsace and one Champagne).

Within Bordeaux 31% of the total (61% of Bordeaux) are from the left bank excluding Pessac/Graves, 16% (31%) from the right bank, three from Sauternes/Barsac and one from Graves/Pessac.  On the left bank 13% of the total (42% of the left bank) are from Pauillac and 6% (19%) from St-Julien and 7% (23%) from the Margaux commune. The most popular estates are Latour (six wines), Chateau Margaux (six), Chateau Montrose (four) and Chateau Talbot (four). On the right bank there are 12 wines from Pomerol and four from St-Emilion. Within Pomerol there are four wines from La Fleur Petrus, three from Certan De May and two each from La Conseillante and Lafleur.  Within Sauternes Barsac two of the three wines are Chateau d’Yquem.

Within Burgundy there are eight Cotes De Nuits reds, and ten Cotes De Beaune whites, with one Cote De Beaune red and one Chablis. Within the Rhone half the wines, eight in total, are Cote Rotie. There are two whites and only one Southern Rhone. In Italy all the wine are Piedmont and either Barolo or Barbaresco.

100. Chateau Montrose 1986
99. Chateau Lafleur Petrus 1995
98. Chateau Certan De May 2001
97. Feyles Barbaresco Riserva 1989
96. Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 2006
95. Raul Perez Ultreia La Claudina 2010
94. Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1995
93. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011
92. Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos De Beze 2008
91. Chateau Duhart Milon 1996
90. Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
89. Patrick Javiller Meursault Tillets 2009
88. Chateau Beaucastel 1994
87. Ascheri Barolo Vigna Dei Pola 1995
86. M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal 1996
85. Louis Latour Romanee Saint Vivant Les Quatre Journaux 2002
84. Louis Latour Criots-Batard Montrachet 2000
83. Chateau Angelus 1989
82. Vincent Bouzereau Meursault Narvaux 2010
81. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981
80. Chateau Talbot 1986
79. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1989
78. Chateau Palmer 1996
77. Michel Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers 1995
76. Chateau Beausejour Becot 1996
75. Chateau Talbot 1982
74. Chateau Haut-Bailly 1998
73. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 2011
72. Chateau Chasse Spleen 1982
71. Chateau Batailley 1989
70. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1970
69. Chateau Latour 1981
68. Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet En Remilly 2011
67. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet, 1erCru, Grandes Ruchottes, 2007
66. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2007
65. Chateau Talbot 2001
64. Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 2004
63. Chateau La Dominique 1996
62. Sorrel Hermitage Blanc Les Recoules 2001
61. Trimbach Cuvée Frederic Emile Riesling 2001
60. Chateau Talbot 1996
59. Chateau Latour 1997
58. Noel Verset Cornas 1998
57. Pavillon Blanc Du Chateau Margaux 2003
56. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudroittes 1992
55. Chateau Grillet 2005
54. Robert Arnoux Clos De Vougeot 2002
53. Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne 1992
52. Chateau Certan De May 1990
51. Chave Hermitage 1988
50. Mount Mary Quintet 1999
49. Guigal Cote-Rotie Chateau D’Ampuis 1997
48. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1970
47. Noel Verset Cornas 1990
46. Philipponnat Clos De Goisses 2002
45. Chateau Margaux 2009
44. Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2007
43. La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de La Bousse d'Or 1996
42. Guigal Cote Rotie 1976
41. Jamet Cote-Rotie 1997
40. Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet 2008
39. Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 2004
38. Chateau Montrose 2005
37. Chateau La Conseillante 1989
36. Roberto Vierzio Barolo La Serra 1995
35. Gilles Barge Cote Rotie Cuvee Du Plessis 1991
34. Cuilleron, Gaillardia, Villard Cote-Rotie Les Essartailles 1999
33. Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga 2001/07
32. Chateau Latour 1983
31. Chateau Montrose 2003
30. Chateau La Conseillante 1990
29. Chateau Latour 1985
28. Chateau La Fleur Petrus 2012
27. Chateau Montrose 2010
26. Chateau d'Yquem 1986
25. Chateau Climens 1988
24. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990
23. Grahams Port 1963
22. Chateau Certan De May 1998
21. Chateau Figeac 1990
20. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1983
19. Chateau La Fleur Petrus 1998
18. Camille-Giroud Charmes Chambertin 2006
17. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984
16. Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999
15. Aldo Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia 1974
14. Chateau Lafleur 2001
13. Chateau Margaux 2001
12. Chateau Petrus 1990
11. Chateau Latour 1970
10. Chateau Lafleur 1995
9. Chateau Lafleur-Petrus 1971
8. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 
7. Chateau Margaux 1959
6. Chateau Margaux 1996
5. Ramonet Montrachet 1988
4. Chateau Latour 1982
3. Chateau Margaux 2010
2. Chateau D’Yquem 2001
1. Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Romanee Conti 1980




Thursday 26 December 2013

Wines over Christmas


Chateau Batailley 1989

This is head and shoulders above anything this estate has ever made and has been in the zone for ten years and will remain there for another five. There is so much going on in this wonderfully chewy style of Pauillac with notes of lead pencil, tobacco and berries, graphite and forest floor, and it is now developing more noticeable old leather armchair notes. 92

Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint George's Les Pruliers 2006

A lot of structure and density with blood and meaty notes, this is undoubtedly young with its best years ahead of it but it is a compelling young burgundy. It is intense with a dense mid palate overlaid with spicey notes and a fine finish. Will only get better as it gains complexity and smooths over its rough edges. 91

Château Chasse-Spleen 1982

A fabulous wine with notes of graphite and charcoal, strawberries, umami, earth and elderflower. Firing on all cylinders and right at its apogee. 92

ChateauTalbot 2001

A fine 2001 St-Julien this is really starting to come together, as it moves out of its primary to its secondary phase, and tobacco and earthy notes come to the fore. Drinking well now this will only improve as it gains in complexity over the next five to ten years. Talbot: the quiet over achiever. 91

Chateau La Dominique 1996

Melvyn and the cool notes. Cool menthol notes, plums and red fruits, overlaid with subtle mineral and smoky notes. An absolute delight. Refined, medium- bodied St -Emilion, quietly classy with the accent on restraint. Such a refreshing change from some modern, grotesque right bank creations. This is drinking sublimely well now, and should continue to do so over the next five plus years. 92

Chateau Margaux 1959

Bright garnet-bricking and a lively nose of balsamico, spices and flowers. On the palate it is long fresh and juicy with a smorgasbord of meats, tobacco, truffles, spices and herbs. It is deceptively powerful and concentrated but oh so poised and fresh. A beautifully nuanced and classy wine. This is fully resolved example of a great Bordeaux and Chateau Margaux vintage. 97

Aldo Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia 1974

Resplendent translucent mahogany hue, floral tones overlaid with haunting woodsy, underbrush and bonfire notes; as it opens up majestically over 90 minutes it puts on weight and becomes richer with hints of roasted almonds; by now it is singing with the power and authority of Pavarotti. It is perfectly poised throughout. After about two and a half hours it bows out gracefully and recedes like a sailboat into a glorious shimmering sunset. 95



Chave Hermitage 1988

Red robe, garnet rim, lively and expressive on the nose with red fruits, peppers, peat, bonfire and gamey meaty notes. On the palate beefy/bovril notes come to the fore and it is as lean as a Cheetah, without being thin. This medium bodied wine lacks the density, mid-plate stuffing and finish of the likes of the 1990 but it is nevertheless an enthralling and riveting wine. I don't think there is any point in holding out for better to come; but neither is there any hurry to drink up. 93



Marc Sorrel Hermitage "Les Recoules" 2001 (Blanc)

Initial oxidisation on the nose blew off to reveal a beautiful wine with a golden hue, rich notes of honeysuckle, quince with a hint of aniseed. Dense, rich, unctuous (and quite alcoholic) on the palate. 92

Chateau Figeac 1995

Drunk on Christmas Day from a half bottle this had dark fruits, dark chocolate, with tobacco, leafy, notes, with musky, leathery notes on the mid palate. 88

Wednesday 11 December 2013

Top 50 wines in Q4 2013


50. Domaine De Chevalier 1996
49. Ridge Monte Bello 1991
48. Chateau Beychevelle 1928
47. Henschke Julius Riesling 2007
46. Dominus 1991
45. Gilles Barges Cote Rotie Du Plessis 2001
44. Chateau Grillet 2006
43. Chateau Pichon Baron 1996
42. Ponsot Chambertin 1997
41. Pierre Yves Colin Morey St-Aubin Les Charmois 2011
40. Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2005
39. Castello Di Nieve Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 2007
38. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011
37. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Les Boudroittes 2011
36. Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2001
35. Chateau Grillet 2008
34. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996
33. Chateau Palmer 1996
32. Chateau Montrose 1986
31. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981
30. Noel Verset Cornas 1995
29. Chateau Giscours 1996
28. M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal 1996
27. Chateau Lafleur Petrus 1989
26. Ascheri Barolo Vigna Dei Pola 1995
25. Noel Verset Cornas 1999
24. Chateau Duhart Milon 1996
23. M Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers 1995
22. Chateau Beausejour Becot 1996
21. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 2011
20. Chateau Talbot 1982
19. Lafleur Petrus 2010
18. Lafleur Petrus 1995
17. Cuilleron, Gaillardia, Villard Cote-Rotie Les Essartailles 1999
16. Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga 2001/07
15. Noel Verset Cornas 1998
14. Trimbach Cuvée Frederic Emile Riesling 2001
13. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1989
12. Chateau Talbot 1996
11. Chateau Montrose 2005
10. Chateau Montrose 2003
9. La Fleur Petrus 2012
8. Volnay Clos De La Bousse D'Or La Bousse D'Or 1996
7. Chateau Montrose 2010
6. Chateau d'Yquem 1986
5. Chateau Climens 1988
4. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990
3. La Fleur Petrus 1998
2. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984
1. Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999

No pretense at consistency with previous notes