Thursday 26 December 2013

Wines over Christmas


Chateau Batailley 1989

This is head and shoulders above anything this estate has ever made and has been in the zone for ten years and will remain there for another five. There is so much going on in this wonderfully chewy style of Pauillac with notes of lead pencil, tobacco and berries, graphite and forest floor, and it is now developing more noticeable old leather armchair notes. 92

Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint George's Les Pruliers 2006

A lot of structure and density with blood and meaty notes, this is undoubtedly young with its best years ahead of it but it is a compelling young burgundy. It is intense with a dense mid palate overlaid with spicey notes and a fine finish. Will only get better as it gains complexity and smooths over its rough edges. 91

Château Chasse-Spleen 1982

A fabulous wine with notes of graphite and charcoal, strawberries, umami, earth and elderflower. Firing on all cylinders and right at its apogee. 92

ChateauTalbot 2001

A fine 2001 St-Julien this is really starting to come together, as it moves out of its primary to its secondary phase, and tobacco and earthy notes come to the fore. Drinking well now this will only improve as it gains in complexity over the next five to ten years. Talbot: the quiet over achiever. 91

Chateau La Dominique 1996

Melvyn and the cool notes. Cool menthol notes, plums and red fruits, overlaid with subtle mineral and smoky notes. An absolute delight. Refined, medium- bodied St -Emilion, quietly classy with the accent on restraint. Such a refreshing change from some modern, grotesque right bank creations. This is drinking sublimely well now, and should continue to do so over the next five plus years. 92

Chateau Margaux 1959

Bright garnet-bricking and a lively nose of balsamico, spices and flowers. On the palate it is long fresh and juicy with a smorgasbord of meats, tobacco, truffles, spices and herbs. It is deceptively powerful and concentrated but oh so poised and fresh. A beautifully nuanced and classy wine. This is fully resolved example of a great Bordeaux and Chateau Margaux vintage. 97

Aldo Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia 1974

Resplendent translucent mahogany hue, floral tones overlaid with haunting woodsy, underbrush and bonfire notes; as it opens up majestically over 90 minutes it puts on weight and becomes richer with hints of roasted almonds; by now it is singing with the power and authority of Pavarotti. It is perfectly poised throughout. After about two and a half hours it bows out gracefully and recedes like a sailboat into a glorious shimmering sunset. 95



Chave Hermitage 1988

Red robe, garnet rim, lively and expressive on the nose with red fruits, peppers, peat, bonfire and gamey meaty notes. On the palate beefy/bovril notes come to the fore and it is as lean as a Cheetah, without being thin. This medium bodied wine lacks the density, mid-plate stuffing and finish of the likes of the 1990 but it is nevertheless an enthralling and riveting wine. I don't think there is any point in holding out for better to come; but neither is there any hurry to drink up. 93



Marc Sorrel Hermitage "Les Recoules" 2001 (Blanc)

Initial oxidisation on the nose blew off to reveal a beautiful wine with a golden hue, rich notes of honeysuckle, quince with a hint of aniseed. Dense, rich, unctuous (and quite alcoholic) on the palate. 92

Chateau Figeac 1995

Drunk on Christmas Day from a half bottle this had dark fruits, dark chocolate, with tobacco, leafy, notes, with musky, leathery notes on the mid palate. 88

No comments:

Post a Comment