Penfolds Grange dinner at the Ledbury

A magnificent dinner at the Ledbury restaurant in Notting Hill, last Wednesday the 22nd January. Currently a Michelin two star, on this showing it won't be long before it gets its third star.

To start: 

Kangaroo Scotch Egg, 
Cheese and Vegemite on Toast

Grilled Scottish Langoustine 
with Caramelised Sourdough and Blood Orange


1988 Philipponnat, Grand Blanc, Brut 
(Disgorged 2007) 

Pale, youthful looking, fresh, lively, lifted vibrant; very refined

We raised our glasses in memory of Chris Longstaff. 



First course:

Roast Breast of Quail with Chestnut Cream, 
Chanterelles and Thyme


1975 Penfolds Grange 

Remarkably youthful opaque colour, this started out quite slowly despite having been double decanted four hours earlier, it unfurled and improved over the evening and really began to sing. A magnificent bottle! Still on the young side with subtle animal (?) and minty notes, this is a somewhat restrained rendition of Penfolds Grange. It is medium-full bodied and has years left. Drink now-2040. 

1982 Penfolds Grange 

A more expressive, sweeter attack, even with some porty notes. On the palate it was ripe, rich and opulent with dark chocolate notes. A much more exuberant style of Grange. Absolutely exquisite. Drink now-2045.

1983 Penfolds Grange

More pronounced menthol and eucalyptus notes, from a very hot vintage this showed extremely well, but did not quite have the exquisite refinement and balance of its flight mates, but is still absolutely splendid. Drink now-2050. 


Second course:

Loin of Hare with Rhubarb, Black Pepper and Baked Carrots


1985 Penfolds Grange

This is a cool, silky, svelte, perfectly judged Grange. It has the power and will last for decades, but the emphasis here is on finesse and refinement. It has a zenlike finish. Probably my wine of the night, or equal with the 1982. Drink now-2050. 

1986 Penfolds Grange 

The 1986 is a more powerful, brutal and expressive wine than the 1985. It has trademark Barossa bush-viney notes with added weedy, piped tobacco. On the palate is full-bodied, dense, brooding and powerful. While this can be drunk with enormous pleasure now this wine is still evolving and has decades left. Drink now-2060. 

1988 Penfolds Grange 

The only wine which was possibly faulty, sensitive noses picked up some cork taint, but the wine held together extremely well all night. It lacked the smoothness and finesse of the 1985 and the power of the 1986, but on its own is still an impressive wine. Drink now-2050. 



Third course:

Fillet of Belted Galloway Beef with Root Vegetables, 
Black Truffle and Pine


1991 Penfolds Grange 

This had been open for 15 hours, but it was still quite brooding and backward. This has all the elements to evolve into a great wine, but I found it to be slightly awkward and lacking in charm, especially next to the 1992. Drink 2020-2070.

1992 Penfolds Grange

Clearly a young wine, which has only just entered its drinking window, but it is absolutely fabulous. I wish I owned this rather than the 1991. Drink now-2070. 

1996 Penfolds Grange

The youngest, biggest and most powerful wine on the slate last night. A colossus. A wine for your grandchildren. I was more in awe of this wine than in love with it. This wine could easily last 100 years and will not be fully ready for another 15. It is also synonymous with Penfolds Grange becoming bigger, more powerful, more monolithic over time as other monstrosities compete to take its mantle. Grange is still peerless in Australian wine. Drink 2030-2100. 


Dessert: 

Pear Cooked in Brown Butter with Walnut, 
Beremeal and Caramelised Goat’s Milk


2001 Château Rieussec, Fargues, Bordeaux

From a half bottle. Fresh, lifted, rich and concentrated and poised with a cool, languid finish. 



What are the conclusions? Penfolds Grange is every bit as great as its reputation suggests. The wines have a timeless quality about them, and will last for decades. The older the better. No other Australian wine comes close. 

Grange is simply one of the greatest wines in the world. It is as good as Chateau Latour, or the Guigal La-La's. 

The table voted the 1982, 1985 as wines of their flights with the 1992 and 1996 sharing honours in the last flight.

The table voted the 1975 and 1982 as the best wines of the night.


I bracketed the wines in to three layers, with the pecking order in each layer:

First tier: 1985, 1982, 1975 – 97/98 points?
Second tier: 1992, 1983, 1986 – 95 points?
Third tier: 1991, 1996, 1988 – 92/93 points?

A wine for New Year's Eve

A delightful and fully resolved bottle of Mouton with the accent on elegance rather than raw power. The nose is also less exuberant than other vintages of Mouton with red berries, woodsy notes and hints of cedar, mint and tobacco. On the palate it is medium bodied, suave, elegant and complex, and the tannins are fully resolved. The mid-palate is deceptively rich and powerful but the emphasis is much more on elegance. This wine has developed some musty church pew, and old leather armchair notes, which suggests to me that it is approaching the end of its drinking window. Like many other 1983 clarets this will not make old bones. But it is wonderful now, and a rare opportunity to drink a fully resolved Mouton.