Flight one: white burgundy
2008 Drouhin Laguiche Chassagne Morgeots
Pale color, young wine, faint notes of citrus and hazelnuts; floral, ethereal and super refined, beautiful finish. 93+
2002 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard
Also surprising pale for its age…it had a bit of burnt note initially (rubber? oak?), which blew off then minerals, hazelnuts, oatmeal, flowers, fennel, menthol, jasmine, pear, peach and citrus notes, this wine unfurled magnificently; it is light on its feet, refined, smooth and silky as it coats the mouth and has incredible length. 97+
1989 Paul Pernot Batard Montrachet
Slightly less pale, but still healthy spritely color. Interesting nose of nettles, lemon grass initially; earthy and minerally, then it opens up beautifully with licorice and butterscotch notes. It the mouth it is rich and full, but it lacks the finesse on the finish of the other two. This is remarkably vibrant for a 22 year old but won’t repay keeping, and not quite at the same level as its flight mates. 91
Flight two:
1994 Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan
The nose is outrageous. It shouldn’t be allowed: An intoxicating and mesmerizing melange of minerals, cigar box, scorched earth – and best of all – compost. Medium-bodied with pepper and licorice notes it is somewhat angular on the palate but was still a thrill to drink and fabulous glass of claret. Remarkably mature however, and it did fade out over the evening. 92.
1998 Tertre Roteboeuf , St Emilion
Oh my gosh….this is so sexy. Even too sexy! (Like the 89 was?) No, no such thing as too sexy. Give it to me. Yeah baby! A sultry temptress with coffee, chocolate, berries, like a black forest gateau (lick it off me baby)…and exotic spices. Low in acidity. High in exotic sex appeal. 92
**Apologies for that last tasting note. Normal service will now be resumed**
2005 Trotanoy, Pomerol
Showed extremely well. Big thick and dense, but remarkably finely balanced. This wine has everything in abundance, not least an incredible future. It’s packed with fruit, cassis and other nuances; it is enrobed in silky smooth tannins. Enjoyable now it will be stunning in the decades ahead. Best 2005 I have tried by a long chalk. (Better than La Conseillante.) 96-98+++
Flight three:
1982 Gruaud Larose, St Julien
A big, full-bodied, behemoth with so much going on. You immediately get thwacked in the hooter with a beefy/cow’s butt (arse) bouquet, but then there is a boat load of fruit, herbs, tobacco, underbrush and other stuff vying for your attention – you name it, a veritable smorgasbord. It is full-bodied, chewy, bumptious and long on the palate. An old fashioned wine, which is well into its plateau of maturity but will remain there for many more years. 96
1979 Palmer, Margaux
Not a pristine bottle, but the second best bouquet of the night….berries, cassis, cigar box, tobacco, lilacs and violets lead on to a refined medium-bodied palate. In the perfect spot right now and it is absolutely delicious. 93
1982 Leoville LasCases, St Julien
I have this 7-8 times and usually it is shut tight. Last night it decided to play, and it was stunning, with overwhelming lead pencil notes, dark red fruits and a glorious dense texture (like Mouton 86). Rich and concentrated it has a stunning finish. It was smoother and silkier than the Gruaud, and pipped it to be wine of the flight. 97
Flight four:
1996 Montrose, St Estephe
A fabulous young Montrose with meaty notes with ripe black fruit and tobacco notes on the medium-full bodied palate. I think this will eclipse the 1989. Unfortunately it had to play Cinderella for the night as it was put in the shade by the next wine. 95+
1995 Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac
Transluscent maroon, trade mark nose of lead pencils, cedar and minerals it unfurled majestically. Ethereal, sublime and bewitching; on the palate medium-medium-full, with initial cool fruit with subtle menthol, herbs and licorice overtones; cocooned and classy; wave upon wave; the finish is sensationally long and luxurious. Power combined with elegance, finesse and gravitas, it has the same mesmerising equilibrium as the 1989 but more power without being heavy. 98-99+
1996 Pichon Comtesse De Lalande, Pauillac
This is the first time I can recall that this wine played second fiddle to one of its flight mates. Still on the upslope it is dominated by ripe cabernet fruit with trade mark burnt raspberries and an opulent texture. 96+
Dessert:
1997 Rieussec
Magnificent. No notes.
Voting
Lafite 26 votes
LLC 9
Palmer 7
Gruaud 6
Haut Brion 3
Tertre Roteboeuf 3
Trotanoy 3
Pichon lalande 1
For the whites:
Leflaive 6
Pernot 3
Thank you Jacques as always for organizing what was easily the best dinner yet, and bringing three terrific wines and special thanks to Pierre for giving us the opportunity and thrill of tasting and drinking Lafite, when we can no longer afford it. I have been to some memorable tasting dinners over the years and this is right up there with the best of them.
