Flight one
Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Marc Morey, 1990
A deep golden – the sort of colour that would set alarms bells ringing if it was younger – and expectations around the table were politely muted. After a slightly dodgy start it began to pull itself together and firm up in the glass. It was fat and buttery but not unfocussed; very rich yet precise and crisp, with tangerine then some licorice at the end.
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive, 1997
This had a much lighter colour and a more subdued nose, some toastiness and nuttiness, but strangely subdued until one of the sharper palates suggested that it might be corked; if so it was only mildly corked and still drank well with the langoustine.
Angus, Keith and Jon. Luke the sommelier standing
Flight two
DRC Echezeaux 2000
Resplendent bright pinkish-maroon; high-toned, youthful and vibrant primary raspberry fruits dominate; wonderful precision, delineation and superb texture. After a while some gamey notes emerged – hung pheasant. This riveting wine will surely evolve beautifully over the next 20 years.
DRC Romanee Saint Vivant 1994 – flawed not tasted
DRC La Tache 1967
A healthy dark maroon this 44 year old was still very much in the land of the living. However, it had gone off on multiple tangents a long time ago. Decadent bordering on malodorous with tertiary notes of game, meat, minerals, damp undergrowth, rotting fruit, carcasses, molasses and brown sugar. Eventually it began to fade in the glass.
Nigel, David and Ken (foreground)
Flight three
Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 1992
This was introduced into the mix after the RSV dropped out. Hung gamey notes, savoury texture, leanish and elegant on the palate; fine and feminine but somewhat shy and angular (compared to what followed). A pretty Audrey Hepburn of a wine.
Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos-Saint-Jacques 1989
More developed rounder and fuller, this had decadent strawberries to match the pervasive gaminess. Spicey, fruity and silky with an hourglass figure. Much as I liked the 1992 I adored this a lot more.
Ken Lamb, Angus and Keith
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin 1996
This wine was more opaque, denser, brooding and powerful than the previous two, and clearly it has a long way to evolve to reach its plateau. It had a smorgasbord of spices, strawberries, gamey, camphor and other minerally notes. Full-bodied and long, it is a thrilling and spectacular wine.
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin 1988
A very good wine which just suffered by comparison with the 1996 – should have tried it first. It had a sweet spicey nose and a good texture, but lacked the focus and precision of the 1996, which made it difficult to analyse. On its own you would be very happy with it.
Jon and Nigel with Luke pouring
Flight Four
DRC Richebourg 1992 – flawed – so in its place:
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos De Beze 1995
Big brooding and powerful, the texture was not quite as smooth as the 1996 Chambertin, and it clearly also needs a good deal of time. This had good berry fruit, with tertiary/smokey-bonfire/forest floor nuances beginning to emerge and a spectacular complex and luxurious finish.
DRC Richebourg 2000
Pure vibrant, lazer sharp focus, very primary and not dissimilar to the Echezeaux; some meaty, gamey and minerally notes were lurking and eventually came through but this needs a lot of time. Didn’t quite make the earth move beneath my feet the way it did in 2009 but like its sibling it has a fine future ahead.
David posing with the night's trophies
Flight five
Ch Coutet 1971
An effusive burnt orange with notes of marmalade, citrus – it was matched up against crème brulee with orange and cardamom, probably the best dessert I have ever tried. The Coutet being a Barsac is probably better suited to foie gras, and sauternes would have been a better match, but still a suitably high note on which to end festivities.
My wine of the night was the 96 Chambertin followed by the 95 Clos De Beze, but if I could choose one to drink now it would be the 1989 CSJ.
Thanks to Nigel and his staff for another sublime culinary tour de force and also to Ken, Angus, Keith, Jon, David and Ken for a fabulous evening.
The menu
