12th
Ø Pierre-Yves Colin Morey (PYCM) St-Aubin Em Remilly, 2011...
Initially suffered from bottle shock. Very young, but picked itself up and
finished very strong. MEK 17/20, IA 17.25
Ø Gilles Barges Cote Rotie Cuvée Du Plessis, 2001. Just entering
its drinking window. Smoky, spicey gamey, lifted and complex. Traditional but really good Cote Rotie. MEK
17.5, IA17.
13th
Ø Chateau Minuty Blanc 2011. Perfect for wiling away the time with
Moules Marinieres looking out on to the ocean waves. MEK, IA 15/20
Ø Yves Cuilleron Condrieu 2009. Very shy and inert initially, and
then began to open with faint notes of lemon and honey suckle. Nice texture. MEK
16.5, IA 15.5.
14th
Ø Ceretto Roero Arneis 2011. Only by the glass. IA 15/20.
Ø Ceretto Barbera D'Alba 2011. Only by the glass. 15/20
Ø Ceretto Barolo Zonchera, 2009. Luscious and remarkably forward
for a wine which is usually so ageworthy. MEK 16/20, IA 16.5/20
Ø Roero Arneis .... name? Very impressive and clearly better than
the Ceretto.16/20
Ø Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2005. Still young, but
very promising modern-style Barolo, which is delicious after a good decant. It
has a dense mid-palate and a strong finish. IA: 18/20
15th
Ø Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet La Boudroittes 2011. We could have
ordered a Gaja chardonnay and paid more. We made the right choice. Astonishingly
cheap at 57 euros for a Michelin star restaurant. IA 18, MEK 19
Ø Marchesi Di Gresy Martinenga 2007. This was translucent,
ethereal and elegant. A beautiful wine. IA 18.5, MEK 18
Ø Henschke Julius Riesling 2007. Nice, tight and impressive 17.5
Ø Castello Di Nieve Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 2007. Very
delicious, with a thick texture. More than just a poor man’s Giacosa. IA 18,
MEK 17.5
16th
Ø JL Chavy Puligny Folatieres 2011 A very good wine that lacked
the zip of the last bottle we drank in London. Both 16.5
Ø Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 2007 needs a lot of time. It is
thick and powerful but nowhere near resolved. Old school; don't touch for 7-10
years. Both 16.5
17th
Ø PYCM Saint-Aubin Les Charmois 2011. Magnificent. Wet stones,
minerals, white peach, herbal notes, laser-like focus, lithe, power, good
balance. It only lacks the full bodied expansiveness of a grand cru. MEK 17, IA
17.5
Ø Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984. Clear ruby translucent hue, this was
scintillating with notes of berries, bacon fat bonfire ash and piped tobacco. It had blood,
iron and gamey notes, with black and white peppers and Mediterranean herbs,
with still finely delineated red fruits. It is medium bodied, but surprisingly
rich, yet at the same time delicate, refined and complex with a smooth and
delicious finish. Though we worried that this would fade it went from strength
to strength. This is thrillingly mature, fully resolved Cote Rotie at its
best.
18th
Ø JL Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres,
2011. Much the same as the Folatieres. Good but lacked that zip of the last bottle.
Normally this would be 17.5+, this time 16.5.
Ø Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990. Although I
love the 'Hommage a Francis Bacon' label I wasn't really expecting much. I have
had this wine a few times before, though admittedly not for 7-8 years, and based
on those experiences I broadly concurred with prevailing sentiments that Mouton
significantly under-achieved in the context of the vintage. So we sat down,
this wine and I and we had a conversation. I said 'you do not have a very good
reputation' and (s)he replied 'rather than have preconceived ideas why don't
you just judge me on my own merits and on your own criteria'? This wine has the
enthralling Mouton nose of soy, and a certain haunting quality...exotic
mushrooms to the fore and a certain leafiness. On the palate it was no more
than medium-bodied, but beautifully delineated and poised. It is not pouting or
highly extracted but is restrained, discreet and has a captivating balance and
karma, attenuated by age. This is the first fully mature example I have tried,
and it was simply fabulous. The wine maker was clearly going for finesse and
balance over power and extraction. This is not the first fully mature First
Growth with an iffy reputation that has surprised and delighted me. Others have
included Lafite 1985 and Latour 1983.
