Wednesday 26 December 2012

Top 100 of 2012

This is my best attempt to come up with my top 100 wines of 2012. There are more than 100 wines here as I have occasionally lumped different vintages of the same wine together, or different wines from the same producer and vintage, if I felt they were about equal in my subjective pecking order. 

For example I have lumped together four vintages of Hermitage La Chapelle, the first three being delicious and perfectly 'a point' and the 1990 nowhere near ready. The latter will ultimately go on to be the better wine, but provides less pleasure today than the 82, 85 and 88, so subjectly they are about equal in 2012. Similar Magdelaine 1982 (#17) is a much more pleasurably drink than Lafite 1982 (#46), but the Lafite is immortal.  These rankings are not necessarily consistent with my previous rankings, and I make no apology for that as my thoughts have evolved.

I did not include any 2010 Bordeaux in this list, even though I tasted so many stunning wines from this vintage that I think it is probably the best ever. That accolade previously went to the more forward and voluptuous 2009 vintage. The 2010s are more structured and altogether more serious. In my opinion, extraordinary/best ever wines were made at Leoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose, Branaire Ducru, Pape Clement and La Conseillante in 2010. They would all comfortably be in the top 50, but I did not want to clog up the list with these wines.

My top two producers of the year are Noel Verset and Chateau Figeac, which feature here more than any other wines. It was an astonishing year of wine drinking and so many big name wines did not make it, notably including Chateau Pichon Lalande 1982 (a bit tired) and Chateau Leoville Lascases 1982 (still shut own). Of course there are only good bottles and not so good bottles at that age and on another occasion I am sure both would have shone and featured well up the pecking order. 

Ratings code: 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100

100. Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1999/2000 - still evolving
99. Fontodi Flaccianello 1997 - a Super-Tuscan that won't disappoint
98. Fourrier Griottes Chambertin 1997 - medium, minerals and cherries
97. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie Cuvée Classique 2006 - terrific poise
96. Chateau Giscours 1982 - fully mature, rich, vibrant, berries
95. Denis Bachelet Charmes Chambertin 1998 - expressive
94. Chateau Margaux 1985 - stern
93. Jaboulet Hermitage  La Chapelle 1982/1985/1988 - 'a point' - 1990 - brooding
92. Clerico Barolo Pajana/Ginestra 2001 - modern and stylish
91. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981/1986 - perfectly resolved, complex, mature cote rotie
90. Chateau Figeac 2006/2008 - classy and understated - 2009 - more exuberant 
89. Oddero Barolo 1967 - stern and fresh, decades left
88. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1982 - classic and still quite youthful
87. Tattinger Comtes De Champagne 1988 - butterscoth and roasted nuts
86. Dom Perignon 1990 - strawberries and  cream
85. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 2001 - thinking woman's burgundy
84. Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan 2000 - brooding brilliance
83. Jamet Cote Rotie 1998 - rounded, funky, gamey and carnal
82. Gonon Saint Joseph 1990 - a revelation
81. Chateau Figeac 1980 - leather, chocolate and pipe tobacco
80. Coche Dury Meursault 1996/2001/2003 - hazelnuts, purity and integrity
79. Noel Verset Cornas 1995/1996/1998 - old school, hardcore
78. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1995 - full; punchy and dense mid-palate
77. Chateau Pichon Baron 2002 - quintessential Pauillac
76. Chave Hermitage Blanc 1997 - aristocratic
75. Chateau Latour 1985 - bountiful fruit, cedar, saddle leather
74. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982 - marauding
73. Chateau Climens 1988 - dexterity
72. Coteau De Vernon Condrieu 2007 - flamboyant and brilliant
71. Chateau Grillet 1998/2005/2008 - pale, radiant; igneous slate
70. Camile Giroud Vosne Romanee Malconsorts 1978 - rousing
69. Chateau D'Yquem 1989 - volumptuous (sic)
68. Chateau Cos D'Estournel 2003 - genuine class in a controversial vintage
67. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee 2007 - scrumptious
66. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1995 - gravitas
65. Domaine De Lambrays Clos De  Lambrays 1997 - enchanting
64. Dagueneau Silex 2009 - precision
63. Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000 - evolves into a dream 
62. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1981 - regal
61. Chave Hermitage 1988/1994 - judicious extraction, effortlessly classy
60. Mortet Gevrey Chambertin en Matrot 1996 - haunting
59. Chavy Puligny Montrachet Perrieres 2010 - taut, steely, minerally
58. Chateau Figeac 1976 - glorious
57. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1982 - resolving volcanically
56. Jadot Beaune Clos De Ursules 2001 - always back this dark horse
55. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 - mineral, citrus, laser-like
54. Cheval Blanc 1983 - tertiary, tobacco complexity
53. Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2002 - as good as you would expect
52. Jadot Corton 1995 - obdurate, better than a cold shower
51. Raveneau Chablis Les Forets 1996 - hints at greatness
50. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984 - never ceases to amaze me
49. Donhoff Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke 2009 - Teutonic perfection
48. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Ancegnieres 2010 - extraordinary quality
47. Camile Giroud Corton Clos Du Roi/Corton Rognets 2007 - superstars
46. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1982 - skulking, immortal
45. Mark Haisma Charmes Chambertin 2009 - rich, imperious and complex
44. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2007 - inspired
43. Noel Verset Cornas 1989/1990/1991- Feldspar, Delphic, Kafka-esque
42. Fonseca 1985 - a touch of magic
41. Keller Trockenbeerenauslese  2008 - unctuous, awesome
40. Chateau Pichon Baron 2009 - try keep your hands off this
39. DRC Vosne Romanee Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 2009 - astounding
38. Noel Verset Cornas 1999 - the best of a fine bunch of Versets
37. Domaine De Vogeraie Bonnes Mares 2001 - truly a revelation
36. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996 - power and lead in its pencil
35. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1995 - lead and minerals
34. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 - a gorgeous, fully resolved Mouton
33. Chateau Pontet Canet 2009 - pushes the envelope of perfection
32. Chateau Palmer 1989 - on the ascent towards greatness
31. Chateau Palmer 1985 - ladylike, classic Palmer
30. Chateau Palmer 1986 - thrilling, foursquare, masculine
29. Chave Vin De Paille 1986 - decadent and surreal
28. Chateau Figeac 1998 - transmogrifying into something very special
27. Chateau Rieussec 2001 - how can sauternes be better than this? 
26. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1999 - already breath-taking
25. Chateau Pichon Baron 2000 -  shed its puppy fat, magnificent speciman
24. Chateau Pichon Baron 2005 -  probably the best ever Baron
23. Chateau Figeac 1986 - mesmerising, complex, mature, gorgeous
22. Hudelot Noellat Richebourg 1993 - close to perfection, resolved
21. Jamet Cote Rotie 1997 - fabulous tension and precision
20. Rousseau Clos Saint Jacques 2004 - insanely delicious...04
19. Chateau Grillet 1989 - levitating, ethereal, humbling
18. Chateau Latour 1982 - monumental and Churchillian
17. Chateau Magdelaine 1982 - St-Emilion and 1982 at their best
16. Henri Bonneau Reserve De Celestines 1995 - thrillingly kaleidoscopic
15. Chateau Rayas 1995 - spellbinding and intoxicating
14. Soldera Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 2000 - Italy's DRC
13. Harlan Estate 1994 - iconoclastic
12. Chateau Ausone 1971 - magical
11. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1985 - sets the benchmark for all claret
10. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990 - Madagascar cocoa, wolframite and Mediterranean olives
9.   Henri Bonneau Cuvée Marie Beurrier 1988 - spine-tingling
8.   Gentaz-Dervieux Cote Rotie 1991 - benchmark, mythical Cote-Rotie
7.   Chateau Margaux 1982 - beguiling and extraordinary
6.   Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline 1982 - so so worth the wait
5.   Chateau Haut Brion 1982 - impeccable poise and gravitas
4.   Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982 - poignant, alluring, thrilling; effortless perfection
3.   Chave Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin 1991 - mouth coating, myriad naunces & complexity
2.   Chave Hermitage 1990 - simply astonishing; a masterpiece
1.   DRC Richebourg 1978 - pinch youself Ian; you are still alive. Holy cow!

Tuesday 18 December 2012

My top 100 wines in Q4 2012

Regarding 2010 Bordeaux I only included those I considered extraordinary at a recent 2010 tasting. I also included Le Pin 2010 tasted separately. I have applied scores to these wines out of 100, which I regard as the least flawed of all scoring systems, although it still entails a grossly spurious pretence of accuracy. Neither do these scores make any claim for consistency or fairness. Some of the younger wines have been scored in a range. The inconsistency often arises because older wines have been given pride of place up the pecking order if they are judged to be around their peak.



100. Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 1994 - 88
99. Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 1995 - 88
98. Chateau Beaucastel Blanc 2001 - 88
97. Ceritas Escarpa Pinot Noir 2009 - 88-90
96. Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2007 - 89
95. Araldica Corsini Barbaresco 2009 - 89-91
94. Domaine De Chevalier 1990 - 89
93. Chateau Beychevelle 1990 - 89
92. Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl 2000 - 89
91. Chateau Figeac 2007 - 89-92
90. Ceritas Porter Bass Chardonnay 2009 - 89-92
89. Jobard Meursault En Barre 2000 - 89
88. Fattoria Del Felsina Berrandenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 1997 - 89
87. Nicholas Potel Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes 2000 - 89
85. Chateau Pichon Baron 1985 - 89
86. Sine Qua Non Mr K the Noble Man 2000 - 90
84. Chateau Rieussec 1998 - 90
83. Castello Di Rampolla Sammarco 1997 - 90
82. Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz 2000 - 90
81. Penfolds RWT Shiraz 1997 - 90
80. Henriot Champagne 1989 - 90
79. Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 - 90-92
78. Dominus 1991 - 91
77. Chateau Angelus 1995 - 91-93
76. Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1990 - 91-93
75  Chateau Pichon Baron 2001 - 91-93
74. Louis Michel Cornas La Geynale 2001 - 91
73. Gianni Voerzio Barolo La Serra 1997 - 91
72. Chateau Certan De May 2001 - 91
71. Barolo Classico Massolino 2007 - 91-94
70. Cotat Sancerre Caillottes 2010 - 91-94
69. Chateau Gruaud-Larose 1995 - 91
68. Roagna Barbaesco Paje 2003 - 91-94
67. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie La Landonne 2001 - 91-95
86. Chateau Rieussec 1999 - 92
65. Dom Perignon 1990 - 92 
64. Praeger Gruner Veitliner 2006 - 92
63. Chateau Grillet 2008 - 92-95
62. Robert Arnoux Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Corves Pagets 2000 - 92
61. Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1999 - 92
60. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie Cuvée Classique 2006 - 92-94
59. JM Brocard Chablis Le Clos 2008 - 92-94
58. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1993 - 92
57. Ridge Montebello 1992 - 92
56. Chateau Figeac 2006 - 92-94
55. Chateau Pape Clement 1990 - 92
54. Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2010 - 92-94
53. Chateau Poujeaux 1997 - 92
52. Louis Michel Cornas La Geynale 1999 - 92
51. Le Pin 2010 - 92-95
50. Chateau Figeac 2008 - 92-95
49. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee 2007 - 93-95
48. Jasmin Cote-Rotie 1986 - 93
47. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1995 - 93-95
46. Jean Louis Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 2010 - 93-95 
45. Donhoff Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke 2009 -93-96
44. Trimbach CFE Riesling 2002 - 93-96
43. Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet 1999 - 93-96
42. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1988 - 93
41. Chateau Latour 1985 - 93-96
40. Chateau Palmer 1989 - 93-96
39. Fontodi Flaccianello 1997 - 93-96
38. Chave Hermitage Blanc 1997 - 93
37. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981 - 93
36. Chateau Pichon Baron 2002 -93-96
35. Chateau D'Yquem 1989 - 94-96
34. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1995 -94-97
33. Chateau Figeac 2009 -94-97
32. Chave Hermitage 1994 -94
31. Chateau Palmer 1986 - 94
30. Coche Dury Meursault 1996/2001 - 94/94
29. Coteau De Vernon Condrieu 2007- 94
28. Noel Verset Cornas 1998 - 94-96
27. Chateau Palmer 1985 - 94
26. DRC Vosne-Romanee Cuvee Duvault-Blochet, 2009 - 95-98
25. Keller Trokenbeerenauslese 2008 - 95-98
24. Noel Verset Cornas 1999 - 95-97
23. Domaine De  Vougeraie Bonnes Mares 2001 - 95-97
22. Chateau Cos D'Estournel 2003 - 95-97
21. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1995 - 95-97
20. Chateau Pichon Baron 2009 - 95-100
19. Chateau Figeac 1998 - 95-98
18. Chateau Gruaud Larose 2010 - 95-100
17. Chateau La Conseillante 2010 - 95-100
16. Chateau Branaire Ducru 2010 - 95-100
15. Chateau Pape Clement 2010 - 95-100
14. Chateau Leoville Barton 2010 - 95-00
13. Chateau Pichon Baron 2000 - 96-99
12. Chateau Pichon Baron 2005 - 95-100
11. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 - 95
10. Chateau Figeac 1986 - 96
9. Hudelot Noellat Richebourg 1993 - 96-98
8. Chave Vin De Paille 1986 - 96
7. Henri Bonneau Reserve Des Celestines 1995 - 96-98
6. Chateau Rayas 1995 - 97-99
5. Soldera Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 2000 - 98
4. Chateau Ausone 1971 - 98
3. Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline 1982 - 99
2. Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin 1991 - 100
1. DRC Richebourg 1978 - 100