A group of 11 gathered at the Medlar restaurant on the King’s Road in Chelsea to compare and taste some Bordeaux and Californian wines. The tasting was blind, and was very much about winners and losers in the spirit of the Judgement of Paris, 1976. I helped Ben the organiser put together the flights, but neither he nor I knew the order.
Champers
Champagne Vilmart Grand Cellier d’Or 2006 vs. Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc 2006
#1: Small bubbles, very pale colour, very fine, must be a luxury champagne – 92. It was.
#2: Fuller, sweeter, chewier, not a bad bottle of fizz, must be the Californian – 90. It was.
Flight one
Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron 1985
Château Calon Segur 1989
#1 Deep maroon colour fine nose of earth and pencil lead, dense on the palate; very good. Think this is Bordeaux, and has more than a hint of Pauillac, so this is probably the Baron – 92. It was indeed Pichon Baron
#2 Dark, brooding, smooth, classy, not showing much, as it ages further and develops more complexity it could become an outstanding wine. This is Californian, and I am guessing Dunn, which it was - 92+
#3 A lighter more translucent colour with rasping tannins; Bordeaux and it clearly played second fiddle to #1 and was a disappointment. I guessed correctly Calon Segur - 89
#4 This was quite buttoned up, not showing much complexity yet, will improve. Mondavi? Yes - 90+
A good flight, where I think the Dunn edges the Baron. Nevertheless a good performance from the Baron, which I thought could be a weak link on the night.
Flight two
Phelps Insignia 1994
Dominus 1994
Chateau Troplong Mondot 1990
Chateau Palmer 1989
#1. WTF? Cherry brandy, tastes like cheap port, this is a parody of California at its very worst. FMSW, this is unbelievably bad. It is flawed surely? People round the table are not sure. Is this the Insignia? No it’s the Troplong Mondot. ~<70
#2 This wine is very smooth and velvety, but somewhat detached with low acidity. It definitely tastes more Californian, but I am hopelessly confused now so I guess Troplong – 90. No it was Dominus.
#3. Initially this seemed a bit diffuse and unfocused. Unfortunately it was too warm. Then that familiar Palmer magic began to show through. Not the best 89 Palmer I have tried by far away the best wine in this flight. 94
#4.This had nothing on the nose. On the palate it was a bit gooey. Rich and voluptuous. Does not engage the intellect in the slightest. I am guessing Dominus – 90. No it was the Phelps.
Well that was a disappointing flight. The Troplong was too diabolical to be true, so the owner is going to bring another along to a 1990 tasting we are doing in November. Even the Palmer was a bit below par compared to one I tried a few weeks ago. I was really disappointed with the Dominus and the Phelps. They came across as such superficial wines which present no challenge to the intellect. Maybe that is what rich people want these days.
Flight three
Dominus 1991
Ridge Montebello 1992
Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985
Chateau Latour 1985
#1: Ruby translucent. FMTG. Fabulous. Not a blockbuster but medium bodied and elegant, with layered complexity and a delicious finish. My wine of the night. Has to be Mouton - 95. Yes it was Mouton.
#2. Big voluminous wine, with lots of interest, fruit and complexity. Outstanding wine. 93. I guessed Dominus but it was Ridge.
#3. Fully mature, various fruits, spices and minerals and fine balance, very very fine. – 94. I guessed Ridge but it was Dominus.
#4. Starts out slowly; a bit brooding and a little volatile and funky, then pulls itself together and comes on very strong at the end with Pauillac mineral-fruit intensity, almost hauling in the Mouton. Must be Latour and it was. 94
Fabulous flight.
Ringers – these weren’t served blind
1) Mouton 1993
Cool, classy, lean; good but not in the same league as the ’85 - 91
2) Matanzas Creek 1992
Fully mature, fat and low acid. If you like them fat and easy this is a wine for you - 89
Dessert wines
1) Sine Qua Non Mr K the Noble Man 2000
Extremely sweet and unctuous, thrilling 94
2) Chateau d’Yquem 1989
Remarkably developed for a 23 year old Yquem, full bodied, less taut and acidic than the 1988; but still well balanced and very fine. Yquem never disappoints. 95
I liked the 91 Dominus so much more than the 94, and this kind of summed the evening up. Aside from the appalling Troplong Bordeaux clearly came out on top. Qualitatively it wasn't as close as my scores suggested. All of these Californians were undoubtedly well made, but few of them are really interesting to drink.
My pecking order
Mouton 85, Yquem, Latour, Dominus 91, Palmer, SQN, Ridge, Dunn, Baron, Vilmart, Mouton 93 - Hits
Mondavi, Scramsberg – Middling
Dominus 94, Insignia, Calon, Matanzas, Troplong – Misses
The scores make no claims for accuracy, consistency or fairness
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