First growths for Christmas

Yesterday I had lunch with two of my American friends, one from California, one from New Jersey. These guys don't drink much Bordeaux: they generally drink stuff like Leflaive, Roumier and Chave. Even DRC. But when they do they aim high, so when they invited me for lunch I knew I had to unearth something special. The best I could come up with was La Conseillante 1982.

It was great fun comparing these wines, especially matching the Conseillante against the now almost legendary Cheval Blanc 1985.

La Conseillante 1982

Bright but evolved orangey colour. Quite evolved. Notes of wet soil and mushrooms, then some cedar/sandalwood, floral notes, tobacco, cherries, truffles; medium bodied-layered and complex, opens up and improves in the glass; absolutely delightful. Fully mature, but will easily last for quite a few more years.

Cheval Blanc 1985

A more opaque maroon, subtle notes of plums, raspberries, tobacco caress the palate. This wine is seamless as well as timeless; thicker textured than the Conseillante, absolutely silky and luxurious; it just glides over the palate. Is this the perfect glass of claret? Quite mesmerising.

Chateau Latour 1985

Younger colour, more foursquare with more prominent tannins. Leafy cabernet with notes of cedar and tobacco. Medium bodied. Starts slowly, but gathers momentum and gradually reels in the other two wines. Every glass is better than the previous one. The last one is spectacular. A very elegant and refined style of Latour. A wine which is just entering its drinking window, which I would imagine would last several decades.

It was difficult to pick a winner but if you put a gun to my head the Cheval Blanc wins. But only just.