The claret vintage series: part twelve 1996

Overall vintage rating ****(1/2)

I own even more 1996 Bordeaux than 1995, in total 21 cases worth or 252 bottles, virtually all of it from the Medoc. The 1996 vintage is more lop-sided than the 1995 vintage. It is very strong on the left bank but more mixed on the right bank, given that the weather was more unsettled when the earlier ripening merlot and cabernet franc grapes were harvested. The later-ripening cabernet sauvignon was harvested under ideal conditions in early-mid October. Stylistically and qualitatively the 1996 vintage is similar to the 1986 vintage, but the 1996s are undoubtedly smoother.

The left bank 1996s have always been more approachable than their 1995 counterparts, given their smoother tannins. At a four-by-four tasting of the 1995-1998 vintages of the four Medoc first growths in 2001, the 1996s were clearly at the top of the pile, followed by the 1995s and then a significant gap to the 1997s and 1998s. Their earlier accessibility than the 1995s does not mean they do not have the ability to last for many decades. Moreover, the top 1996s still have scope to improve further, even though most are already delicious.  

At that tasting the standout wine was Chateau Margaux 1996, which is my wine of the vintage. But it was a closely run thing, with Lafite just a nose behind. I have tried the Margaux four times now, most recently in May this year in a vertical with Paul Pontallier. It is close to full maturity and absolutely stunning, even though the 2010 sets the bar even higher. At another vertical in New York 5-6 years ago, the 1996 was my wine of the night beating other contenders including the 1982, 1983, 1986, 1990, 1995 and 2000.  At the 2001 tasting Latour and Mouton were also very strong. Likewise Haut-Brion tasted around the same time. In fact, that tasting illustrated that the 1995 and 1996 vintages of Haut-Brion are within spitting distance of the now legendary 1989 and 1990 Haut Brions. 

The quality of the left bank ‘super seconds’ is generally higher than in 1995. The pick of the bunch is the extraordinary Pichon Lalande, which is without doubt the best wine from this estate since 1982. Pichon Baron made a much better wine in 1996 than its indifferent effort in 1995. It is foursquare and masculine. Grand Puy Lacoste is equally as good as the magnificent 1995. Still in Pauillac, 1996 marked a welcome return for Pontet-Canet, which made its best ever wine to date.

Ducru Beaucaillou is on a similar level to, but probably shades, the 1995. Leoville Lascases and Leoville Barton are stronger in 1996, and the wines, while still quite backward, are much more accessible than their 1995s. Lagrange, Gruaud-Larose and Beychevelle are in the same boat, both making outstanding wines in 1996, better than their 1995s. Pape Clement made another good wine but it is some distance behind Haut-Brion. I have not tried La Mission Haut-Brion.

Montrose made a fabulous 1996, while Cos D’Estournel probably made a slightly better wine in 1995 than the backward 1996, but both are excellent. Likewise Sociando Mallet but most people rate the 1996 higher than the 1995. Palmer, meanwhile, made a brilliant, and serially under-rated, 1996 clearly superior to the still decent 1995. There really is an embarrassment of riches on the left bank, and I am very happy to own decent quantities of an array of spectacular wines. There are a lot of good wines on the right bank too, but the only profound wine I have come across is Cheval Blanc.

Ten runners up

20. Pape Clement
19. Sociando Mallet
18. Cos D'Estournel
17. Beychevelle
16. Gruaud-Larose
15. Lagrange
14. Leoville-Baton
13. Ducru Beaucaillou
12. Pontet Canet
11. Montrose

My top ten wines in 1996

10. Palmer

9. Leoville Lascases

8. Grand Puy Lacoste

7. Cheval Blanc

6. Pichon Lalande

5. Haut-Brion

4. Mouton-Rothschild

3. Latour

2. Lafite

1. Margaux

Notable wines I have not tried

La Mission Haut-Brion, Ausone, Petrus, Le Pin