…so a group of ten of us gathered at ‘our local’ – Fabios for themed tasting of 1990 Bordeaux.
To wet the whistle:
Jobard Meursault Blagny 2001 – not premoxed – (hurls hat up in the air…yeeeh!) – nice chablis-like chalkiness and lemony-chalky. 91
Amiot Puligny Montrachet Les Desmoiselles 1990 – Norwegian blue (dead parrot). Hello Polly! Anybody home? The only reason why it was sitting on its perch was because it had been nailed there. NR
Trrimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee Des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 1990 – TCA on the nose but this was otherwise vibrant, voluptuous and lively with exotic fruits – guava, lycees and melons 91
Flight one
La Fleur De Gay 1990
A bit of brett on the nose, which soon blew off. Then this wine started to unfurl with meaty, smokey, gamey notes allied to an exotic Pomerol plumminess. It slides across the palate with more cured meat and is a touch bumptious and rustic. It really delivered a lot of pleasure. 93
La Conseillante 1990
Very complex nose of beets, cured meats, game, mushrooms, cigar box and tobacco leaf. On the palate it was incredibly silky, smooth and voluptuous with rich Belgian chocolate and lots of burgundian tertiary nuances. Quite low acidity. Drop dead gorgeous wine. It unfurled like a silk scarf this foxy wine is the equivalent of Angelina Jolie in the Tourist. Marvelous. 98
Flight two
Rausan Segla 1990
Nose initially shy and then became sweet and candied. Nicely perfumed, silky refined and sophisticated but somehow it somewhat flattered to deceive. It lacked stuffing. 89?
Mouton Rothschild 1990
Sweaty horse saddle and coffee nose – then downhill from there right? Wrong, because there is a lot going on here and while it is quite austere on the back of the palate it had an impressively long finish. And it was vibrant on the palate with complex mushroomy notes. While this is not a ‘great’ Mouton, this was the best showing of this wine yet. It is a lot better than Pichon Lalande in this vintage based on our June tasting. 90
Sociando-Mallet 1990
This was similar to wines in the next flight. It had a young colour, and was somewhat monolithic on the palate, which made it less interesting than the Mouton but this is clearly the superior wine. Re-tasted at the end of the night it had come out of its shell and was quite delicious. In 5-10 years this will be superb. 94+
Flight three
Pichon Baron 1990
Disappointing somewhat bretty and yoghurty nose. This wine was awkward all night perhaps because it hadn’t been open long enough. I just don’t think it was a great bottle and it may have been flawed. NR
Montrose 1990
Rather than go into a detailed analysis, everything about this wine is perfect. The nose is intoxicating (no brett) the palate is expansive and delicious with a lot going and the finish was long and luxurious. However this wine is still primary. It lacks secondary/tertiary development, so the best is yet to come. I should imagine that in 20 years time this wine will be a legend. It lays a strong claim to be wine of the vintage. 99+
Cos D’Estournel 1990
Actually a very similar wine in many respects, not far behind the Montrose and also still primary. It opened beautifully over the night, keeping pace with - but a respectable distance behind - the Montrose. 96+
To finish...
Chateau D’Yquem 1990
(It was funny that seven out of ten on the table went out for a smoke before this…not including me)
Needs 30 years, incredibly unevolved. But a treat to taste. 96+++
And then…
Off down to the pub for a (few) cleansing ale(s)
Then off to catch the last train home
We had a brilliant night with the hard core of Patrick, Brendan, Ramon, Sandy and myself batting on. Sandy…the (tall) thin white duke.
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