Pinot at Kittle

My good friend Jacques organised a dinner at Kittle House with seven of his local Chappaqua friends (alas Bill couldn't make it) and me. The theme was 'pinot noir from the 21st century.'

Flight 1

2000 Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Burgundy

Maroon, perfumed sweet nose, just entering a funky stage on the nose with hints of sous bois, hint of licorice on the palate, smooth, complex with a lovely texture and finish; a delicious and very satisfying red burgundy. It is beautifully balanced and light on its feet. It is in a good place right now and will remain so for another decade when it should become funkier and even more complex. This was mine and the group’s WOTN (not often that happens when the first wine is WOTN). ******

2004 Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin Combe Aux Moines Burgundy

Vibrant and lively, this was sharper with good raw materials. But it is a bit gawky and awkward now. No sign of greenness, however. Good potential but come back in five years.**(**)

2003 Williams-Selyem Rochioli Riverblock Sonoma Russian River, CA

A mature wine it had an interesting somewhat savoury, talcy chalkiness about it, which I really liked. It had a slight vegetative streak, good complexity and an attractive animal muskiness. It also greatly improved in the glass, so much so that it challenged the Groffier for the wine of the flight mantle. It had a great finish too. My second favourite wine of the night. ******

Flight 2

2007 Saintsbury Carneros, CA

If you got served this at a barb-q you would be thrilled and quietly quaff it all day. A correct, but somewhat anodyne pinot in this flamboyant company. Nothing wrong with it just anonymous. **

2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Sapphire Hill Sonoma Russian River, CA

This was younger and thicker textured and quite cocooned; initially cherries and then it developed some alluring spicey – nutmeg - and coffee notes; needs a couple more years to express itself.***(*)

2006 Williams-Selyem Central Coastlands San Benito County, CA

This wine was started off well with pretty pinot fruit, quite approachable with cherry spices, but it had a disappointing watery finish. More style than substance.***

Flight 3

2005 Sea Smoke Ten Santa Rita Hills, CA

Thick exotic strawberry pinot notes, quite extracted, fine silky texture, rich and complex and a lot of weight and alcohol (14.9%) This is a very impressive wine but I would find it hard work after a couple of glasses. But I can see why most of the table loved it, and it was the group’s second favourite wine. ****

2007 Kosta-Browne Keefer Ranch Sonoma Russian River, CA

This is a similarly crafted wine (14.7%), but I liked it more than the Sea Smoke because it a beguiling complexity in the mid-palate…and salinity which I just loved…also some beef and awesome extract and power. My third favourite wine. *****

2006 St. Innocent, Seven Springs Vineyard Willamette, OR

Beefy savory, complex, earthty, a bit more nuanced than its flight mates, good finish. ****

Flight 4

2003 Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Burgundy

Very different to the 2000. As Jacques quipped this could easily come from the new world. It had a warm roasted, ripe taste, which betrays a hot vintage. Not at all elegant or balanced for a top red burgundy. Not a bad wine, but not in the same league as the 2000. ***

2004 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Cherbaudes" Burgundy

This was just as gawky as the Combe Aux Moines in the first flight and as Jacques noted marred by a bretty nose. **(*)

Scoring

*poor
**average
***good
****very good
*****excellent
******outstanding
*******legendary

The ratings make no claims for consistency accuracy or fairness

As usual we voted for our favourite, second and third favourite wines, and this is the result:

Groffier Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses - 21 votes
Sea Smoke Ten – 16 votes
2003 Williams-Selyem Rochioli Riverblock – 9 votes
Siduri Pinot Noir Sapphire Hill – 4 votes
2006 Williams-Selyem Central Coastlands – 2 votes
Kosta-Browne Keefer Ranch – 2 votes
St. Innocent, Seven Springs – 1 vote

What did I learn? Firstly I have not had much experience with Californian/Oregon pinots, so it is exciting to discover them. It was a diverse and impressive bunch we had last night. My main observation is that rather than be levitating – like the Groffier or any other great red burgundy – some of these wines tend to weigh you down. A few months ago I tried to drink a bottle of Kosta Browne and through in the towel three quarters the way through. The winemakers perhaps need to concentrate on achieving more finesse and balance, and perhaps rely a little less on power and alcohol. Having said that I thought the 2003 Seylem was a beautiful wine, and it nearly pipped the Groffier for my wine of the night. I want to continue experimenting and brought a few Oregon pinots from the new fairway wine shop in Stamford, CT. In Washington last week I had a very nice pinot called Goldeneye.

Many thanks to Jacques for organising a great evening with his mates from Chappaqua. During the dinner there was a snow and ice storm, so I was grateful to have my Volvo four wheel drive to get me home safely.