Ordering off the list at Kittle House Chappaqua

Our company had its third anniversary celebration dinner to celebrate the fact that it had survived three years of financial market turbulence, so we booked the private room downstairs at Kittle House (Bill Clinton's local) next to the 60k wine (10-15m dollar) wine cellar (sort of like a boy's own - everything you could have if money were no object with the flagship between a Methuselah of 1988 DRC Romanee Conti (one of four signed in pencil by AdV, value $100k). Every time I have been to KH it has been BYO, so for the first time we ordered off the list (6k wines). And a good list it is too with quite a few 'bargains' (some even have -ve mark-ups relative to market value). I chose the French wines and my two colleagues chose the American ones, while the other five chatted amongst themselves.

I chose Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1993, listed for a modest $85. I chose it because it is pre-pox and I think 1993 is an under-rated vintage. My colleague chose a Hanzell Sebella Chardonnay 2007 (I didn’t see what it cost). The JNG was all over the place initially - a rude awakening - and had plenty of VA and frankly tasted a bit tired - it had a good clear colour, however. The Hanzell was lighter but more viscous, concentrated and powerful, with impressive mineral, pear drop and peach stone aromas, with the power of a drag racer. When my colleague dismissed the JNG as being badly oxidised I protested and then a funny thing happened. The JNG started to come to life, the VA blew off and it became a delightful, vibrant, complex and fully mature wine, in a perfect place. The Hanzell meanwhile became hard work after the first few sips. It was a bit unbalanced and lacked sufficient acidic backbone to counter the brute force of the wood and sweet fruit.

On the list was some Dujac Morey Saint Denis. I love, but can rarely, afford Dujac. I nearly chose the straight 1997 for $100 (they also had the 1998 and 1997 at the same price but 1997 red burgs are in a good place right now) but chose instead the 1998 MSD 1er Cru for $145. Ethereal red burgundy nose soared from the glass, notes of rotted garbage/cabbage, minerals, iron, smoke and undergrowth. On the palate light-medium bodied, diaphanous strawberry notes. Delicious finish, gorgeous wine.

Then we had two clarets I was keen to try: Leoville Barton 2001 ($125) and Ducru Beaucalliou 2002 ($100). It is often a bit of a come down drinking claret after an ethereal red burgundy, but right out of the gate these two wines were special. Classy. The Barton had a very complex nose of graphite, leather, earth, clay and berries. The palate was silky smooth, the tannins were very much in evidence but they were smooth and polished. This wine had an austerity which lent it authority and gravitas. A very pure, fine and classic wine. The Ducru had an even more alluring nose, and a silky, seamless palate, with even more refined and less obtrusive tannins. It had a purple rim but this was drinking beautifully; it was like a silk scarf and so much better to drink now than the 03. But matched against the Barton it played second fiddle. The Ducru was too forward – not something one associates with this estate – and had less stuffing and substance than the Barton. It was a tad too easy for my liking. If these two wines were a first date, the Ducru would remove her under garments without your requesting, while the Barton would play a little bit harder to get.

The last two wines I frankly didn’t care for. The first was an Araujo Eisele Vineyard Syrah (didn’t see the vintage or the price). It was very thick, brooding and powerful, staining the side of the glass…I could see that this might be worth revisiting in ten years but it gave very little pleasure now. The second one was even more pointless. It was a 2000 Turley Petit Syrah Rattlesnake Ridge ($140), and it was also glass stainingly viscous. It was as nasty as the name suggested; it had lashings of alcohol and white pepper but that was about it. I only drank it to be polite, while my colleagues were raving about it.

Wine of the night? Chateau Leoville Barton 2001. Buy it. I did. You won't regret it.