When I first started drinking wines in the mid/late 1980s I cut my teeth on Aussie chardonnays, then as I discovered the concepts of finesse and balance I turned my attention to white burgundies. Those were the days long before "premox" arrived (approx. 1995). Winding forward to the late 1990s I remember a vertical tasting of the legendary Leeuwin Estate "Art Series" Chardonnay (from Margaret River, Western Australia), which were so ageworthy and impressive - especially the 1986 and 1987. Since the the estate lost its way, we (my friend) and I got sucked in to buying lots of the overoaked and not particularly ageworthy 1995. Leeuwins now are too alcoholic and too oak. Too fat.
I don't have much experience with Victorian chardonnays like Giaconda but Yattarna 'white grange' has never really done it for me. New Zealand? Neudorf and Kumeu mate's vineyard perhaps. South Africa? Rustenberg Five Soldiers is good but not that great and hamilton Russell is a meursault plaigarist, which falls short.
No; the best new world chardonnay is American. Cutting to the chase it is perhaps (apparently) between Marcassin (never tried), Kongsgaard (never tried) and Mark Aubert (tried thrice). The Auberts are impressive - the ones I have had from 2005 and 2007- Ritchie and Lauren - are exotic with a trademark cloudiness, but would probably win blind tastings with some of the best white burgs. But it is a colossal heavyweight tipping the scales at 15.3% alcohol.
My vote for the best new world chardonnay in the world is the one I drank tonight. It is Ceritas Porter Bass 2007. My notes:
Laser sharp and high-toned nose of sea shells exotic fruits citrus, marzipan, citrus and slate. On the palate it coats the mouth with exotic fruits, apples, figs and citrus zestiness, with hazelnuts. It has a long languid and delicious finish. It opens out beautifully. This wine has quite a bit of power but within a high-toned and immaculate frame. It becomes more and more complex with air. is this America's answer to Coche Dury? It would be interesting to try them side by side.
Finally I like Porter Bass because it sounds like "Parker Bowles"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b22foyWvuUU
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