Wines of the year 2026, part six, 98 points

 Just two entrants in this category, which will be the last. 

Lafite Rothschild 1953 was my wine of the year in 2020, and this was the second and last bottle of that brace.  This second one opened in April for a good friend born in the same year, had a healthy translucent garnet colour with some orange at the rim, and was characteristically leisurely out of the blocks. Then after a few minutes, and over the following two hours, it transformed into something celestial. Ever so light on its feet and elegant, and of course fully resolved, it had an astonishing mid-palate with some honeyed notes and other delicate herbal (lavender?) notes and exquisite nuances, finishing with a glorious flourish. 

It was hard to put into words, but the refinement and complexity of this wine was dazzling and takes Lafite to another level compared to the examples from the ‘70s, ‘80s and 90s we have been so enthused by since that horizontal Lafite tasting in 2018. This wine may not have the power of a great Latour, but it is at the pinnacle of fine claret. And the Lafites we drink from the 80s, 90s or 00s may only be revealing a fraction of their potential. 

The Chateau d'Yquem 2009 tasted in September is a towering, monumental wine. It is multi-dimensional, multi-faceted with myriad nuances – including rich apricots, citrus and tropical fruits, saffron and other herbal notes - with great intensity and at the same time incredible poise and precision. It is perfectly poised with balancing acidity. Best young Yquem I have tried and I think it surpasses the 2001 and the famous 1988/89/90 triumverate.