On 16th November we tried nine wines from this estate owned by the Moeuix family since 1950, as part of the Decanter Masterclass series. Today the vineyard is composed of three major blocks, LFPs 1, 2 and 3 on the "plateau" of Pomerol. The wine is typically 90% merlot and 10% cab franc.
The wines were presented by Eduoard Moeuix, the son of Christian. Eduoard spent quite a few years at Dominus, in California, one of the the estates the family owns. The others include Trotanoy, Latour A Pomerol, Hosanna and now Belair Monange in St-Emilion.
La Fleur-Petrus makes a style of wine that aims for finesse and complexity rather than power and extraction. As the tasting showed they don't always get it absolutely right, notably in some big vintages, but it is my kind of wine.
The wines
1989
A restrained and delicate style of wine, despite being quite high in alcohol. Ripe but not opulent with some dried prunes, tobacco, gravel and mineral notes. A wine with the emphasis on finesse and complexity rather than exuberance. It is not in the same league as some other 1989 Pomerols, like La Fleur De Gay, but I rather like it. 17/20
1995
A slightly more radiant colour and more expressive nose, with minerals, cedar and some perfume. A little more structured than the 1989 but still nicely resolved, albeit with some residual tannic grip. Very smooth and elegant on the palate. Again not an exuberant wine, but a classy one. 17.5
1998
This wine took a while to come out of its shell, it was shy on the nose initially; it is nevertheless round, full and seamless; slightly more full-bodied and denser on the mid-palate than the 1995, this wine really started to sing after 90 minutes. Restrained, but complex, a beautiful wine. 18
2001
This had a more obvious nose of strawberries and grainy tannins. It is quite well resolved and drinking well, but it lacks the gravitas of the 1998 (and the 1995). 16
2005
Rich and concentrated with plummy Christmas cake notes; tannic structure. Opulent, and a little overripe, and hence less balanced and less elegant, than the previous wines. 16
2006
A likeable wine, despite its somewhat foursquare and simple personality. Quite delicious and approachable, with raspberry fruits. Lacks the depth and power of the 2005 and the complexity of the first three wines. 16
2009
Already very delicious, irresistible and quaffable, a wine which incorporates parcels from LFP2. Again raspberry, with hints of balsamico, with more opulence than the 2006. Despite the vintage this lacks the complexity and finesse of the 1995 and 1998. 17
2010
Similar to the 2009 but a bit less opulent, and a bit more structured, and perhaps a little more finesse. An outstanding wine, but I still prefer the 1998. 17.5
2012
Not as powerful as the 2010 nor as opulent as the 2009, but more elegant, and already absolutely delicious, with violets, truffles and mushrooms. Showing very well now. Light on its feet and dextrous. 18
La Fleur-Petrus is my kind of Pomerol, but too expensive to afford eally. I would, however, consider buying a case of the 2012, which will probably be on a par with the 1998, the best mature vintage we tried.
This estate probably made better wines in the nineties than the noughties, and the 2012 could mark a return to form. By all accounts the 12 is a better wine than its stable mates Latour A Pomerol and Hosanna.
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