Tuesday 20 March 2012

Some Bordeaux and non-Bordeaux wines

From the last month or two

Bordeaux wines

Chateau Chasse Spleen 1981

Still elegant and fresh with hints of strawberries and plums, tobacco, cedar and minerals. Super bottle. Parker rating 79 – my rating 91

Chateau Giscours 1982

Fully mature, but vibrant and rich with berry, earth, meat and tobacco notes. Splendid wine. Parker rating 86 – my rating 93

Chateau Lafite 1981

Very muted at first, then it came out of its shell; maroon, medium-bodied, stylish, complex with tobacco, cedar and cigar box; fresh and elegant, refined palate and a long finish; really starting to hit its stride. Parker rating 93 – my rating 94





Chateau Margaux 1985

Tasted next to Opus One, a tortoise next to a hare. This was really slow out of the blocks as if it had been rudely awaken from a deep slumber. Then it started to get its act together and strut its stuff. But it is still a remarkably backward wine and quite closed up; it is dense, powerful and brooding for the vintage but in an unobtrusive way; it has all the hallmarks of a classic well-proportioned Margaux. Parker rating 95 – my rating 93 ++





Chateau Figeac 1982

Fully mature with notes of earth, gravel, tobacco and compost, which is really thrilling; this particular example was a bit cracked on the finish which suggested it didn’t have much time left. Parker rating 92 – my rating 93

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1993

Cherry menthol, eucalyptus, tobacco, green tea and green peppers; spicey, complex with some gamey notes. Superb wine. Parker rating 86 – my rating 94





Chateau Trotanoy 1999

Lush plumy and tobacco notes, this is still young and fairly one dimensional. It should gain in complexity over time, however. Parker rating - Parker rating 89-92 my rating 89+

Chateau Branaire Ducru 2001

Quite a modern and smooth wine for this estate but it really delivers the goods; some oak, red and black fruits with cedar with some earthy-gravelly notes. Excellent wine. Parker rating 89-91 – my rating 92

Chateau Batailley 2001

Still on the young side a pleasant Pauillac true to its appellation. Reasonable fruit but not particularly complex...more of a luncheon claret really. Parker rating 87-88 – my rating 88.

Le Dome (St-Emilion) 2004

Easy to drink, boring and one dimensional. Like a $20 Californian merlot. Parker rating 90-92 – my rating 85.

Chateau La Tour De By, Cuvee Prestige 2000

A wine only made in certain vintages this is still remarkably austere, closed up, tannic, and conspicuously lacking in fruit...as if to say ‘we don’t do fruit here.’ A throw back to the old days perhaps? Given its curmudgeonly state it does need food. Guess I should bury the magnum of this somewhere. Parker rating n/a – my rating 87+

Non-Bordeaux wines

Dom Perignon 1990

This wine is in a sweet spot. Now displaying delightful strawberries and cream notes, and luxurious and silky on the palate. Dream champagne. 96

Fourrier Griottes Chambertin 1997

Dark, rich, with minerals and cherry; good structure and purity; fine length on the palate. 93




Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984

A wine that never fails to impress, regardless of what else is on the table. Delightful cherry, smokey, mineral aromas. 93

Opus One 2002

Pure seductive cabernet fruit out of the gate, low tannins and acidity; the charms quickly wear off and it is a bit one dimensional. Just fine for well heeled divas. 89

Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2005

Cool pinot fruit from Mornington Peninsular in Victoria, this has iron & mineral notes and herb (dill) nuances. One of the best new world pinots you will find anywhere. 94

Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte 2007

A sultry, utterly delicious and very seductive chassagne; has good acidity and balance however. 93

Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St-Jean 2007

Much more austere and structured than the Boudroittes, less pleasurable. 91

Jouard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain 2004

A hypothetical mix combining the best of the above two wines and not a hint of pox. 93

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