Spanish wines at Kittle House

"You have rats in Barcelona don't you? Or did Franco have them all shot? - Basil Fawlty to Manuel in the Hotel Inspectors, Fawlty Towers 1975

This was the next tasting after the Super Calis went ballistic tasting skillfully organised by Jacques and Pierre who - allegedly - has Robert Parker and Bill Clinton on his speed-dial. Many thanks to both of them for organising a fascinating tasting with lots of good-humoured banter thrown in.

Intro

Lopez De Heredia Blanco 1990 - some yellow brown signs of age, not excessively so, and initial VA. This blew off but the wine tasted a bit tired and was on a slow boat to China. I have had much more vibrant examples.

Flight 1

1973 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva (Rioja)

This has some interesting fresh balsamico notes and quite an austere streak with some cherries. But rather than firm up it kind of went nowhere though it did evolve in the glass.

1970 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva (Rioja)

Slightly more interesting with some meaty and gamey notes, but again it was a bit flaccid. We enjoyed much more exhilarating examples of these two last year. Both had mature burgundian and nebbiolo notes but not as much complexity as a great Barolo or Cotes de Nuits this time.

All three Lopez wines were on a slow boat to China. But at this age it is all about good bottles rather than good wines isn’t it? When Jacques and I attended a Lopez tasting early last year these two wines were amazing.

Flight 2

(1985/1991/1996) Vega Sicilia Especiale Riserva (Ribera del Duero)

1991 Vega Sicilia Unico (Ribera del Duero)

Both of these were super and it was hard to pick a winner. Darker maroon, meaty notes, the oak is not fully integrated, but got stronger and stronger in the glass. Need to drink these aged 40+. These are great wines which are not easy to understand. Until I do I hesitate to mention them in the same league as Petrus and Romanee Conti but I could change my mind if I can lay my hands on a ‘28 in San Sebastien.

Now the notes really fall off so just some impressions of the rest.

Flight 3

2005 Bodegas Roda Cirsion (Rioja)

A super modern Rioja

2005 Aalto PS (Ribera del Duero)

Very popular around the table but a bit too extracted and alcoholic for my liking

2007 Hacienda Monasterio (Ribera del Duero)

Very young still and lashings of vanilla oak, needs time to calm down. A monaster (in an eSpanish accent).

Flight 4

2005 Mas Doix Doix (Priorat)
2006 Clos Mogador (Priorat)
2008 Raul Perez Ultreia Valtuille (Bierzo)

The doix doix – pronounced doish-doish was heavy and like having a fight with a grizzly bear, while the Mogador was an ugly monster. The Perez was however refreshingly unmanipulated. But by now I was really struggling (I was jet-lagged as well).

It was a fascinating tasting but I don’t think I could handle another one in San Fran. I am sticking to burgundy.