So the two barolos were drunk at my favourite Manhattan restaurant - Fabio Piccolo Fiore with friend Sandy - a connoisseur and a sage who brought the Marchesi Barolo 1958. I think I will award the Marchesi the wine of the week - I mean it just has the coolest label doesn't it?
But the Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda Riserva 1990 is pretty close to perfection in barolo and one of the best five I barolos/barbarescos I have ever drunk.*
The Giacosa had some ethereal strawberry notes then truffle, tar, and super complexity, power, length and balance. It was drinking well for such a young wine (it is only 21 after all, unlike most 21-year olds it was grown up).
Rather than fade or do a shooting star impersonation the Marchesi went from strength to strength, with some faint notes of roses, tar and smoke, then dark chocolate notes and a fine length. A lively and vibrant 1958. A privilege to drink.
The Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque 1987, drank on Saturday was frankly a bit of a porn star. In some respects it was very good, with the beguiling bacon fat being the most alluring trait, allied to that La Turque 'kinkiness' - but I don't think this wine - the 1987 - needs 36 months in new oak! It was too oaky and frankly on the young side. I had the 1985 a few years ago and it was very young - it mauled a 1981 Penfolds Grange - like a Cyborg killer it shows no mercy nor remorse - not tried the 1986 but I doubt any La Turque is ready! My least favourite of the La-Las, but always fun to drink (because lest face it, it is not ever going to be boring).
* Others are:
- Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 1974
- Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 1971
- Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino 1990
- Franceso Rinaldi Barolo Riserva 1961
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