Top 200 wines in 2024, #5, 99 points

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1996

Back in 2001 I attended a tasting of the first growth Medocs in the 1995-1998 vintages. Two wines stood out. The 1996 Ch. Margaux and the 1996 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild.  When we revisited the best of the 1996 vintage in 2021 on its 25th anniversary these two wines again stood out among the best of the rest.  Whereas the Margaux had been open for a few years, the Lafite was only just reawakening. It was already a magnificent wine, but  with the structure to last for many decades and eventually perhaps pull clear of the Margaux. 

Fast forward to April 2024, and while the Ch Margaux 1996 was not in the line up in the best of first growths dinner, the Lafite 1996, began to reveal more of its potential. It is difficult to put into words, but this wine sets a benchmark and the standard for which other predominantly-Cabernet Bordeaux wines should aspire. Such purity, such levity, subtle yet powerful. It has an expressive nose of red and black fruits, minerals and herbs; it is rich but racy and precise, with a such a refined texture and layered intensity on the palate, impeccable poise and a marvellous finish. 

The only reason for pause is because it is still at least a decade away from its plateau and will go on for decades after that. This is not the Lafite to pick to drink today; it is the Lafite for our children; and our children's children. For today, drink the 1978, or the 1983, or the 1988, reviewed above. But it is possibly the greatest Bordeaux ever made in the 20th century, but one which will not reach its plateau of maturity until is it is in its 4th or 5th decade.