Thursday, 2 January 2025

 Top 200 wines of 2024, part four, 94 point wines, second tranche, 95-73

Some big names in the second tranche of 94 point wines, along with some more niche, artisanal creations, like the superb #95, Boncie Le Trame sangiovese-based Tuscan, made in miniscule quantities and difficult to source. Other wines in this group which set the pulse racing, included the utterly gorgeous #86 Thymiopolous late bottled rose 2013 from Greece, my rose off the year beating off formidable Spanish opposition (good luck trying to track one down though) and the two Garesio Barolos #79 and #74 again from the '18 and '16 vintages respectively. These are thrilling young nebbiolos from this relatively new (15 yo) winery with a vital, rocky, Serralunga signature. The Gianetto is more approachable than the more famous Cerretta. Still in Barolo, #85 was a veritable 50 year-old treat, a perfectly resolved, mellow, intact and delicious old 1974 Fontanafredda, which saw in the new year. Another exciting new discovery was the Rivers Marie Summa Vineyard, #83, glorious Cali Pinot infused with fresh sea breeze. Tried at the same event was a delicious, unpretentious, magnum of Pride Mountain Merlot, #93, which tasted like mature high class Pomerol. 


Among the bigger names in this tranche #91 the L'Eglise Clinet illustrated just why this estate is on such a roll now, and challenging the very best Pomerols. I tasted many excellent to outstanding 2000 Bordeaux in 2024 and Haut-Bailly was modern but so impressive and ran rings around its out-of-sorts, younger, 2005 sibling. The Mouton 1993, #76 with its controversial label, would I thought be on its way out, but no; it spoke to me and sang gloriously on a cold February night. Delicious fully resolved Mouton, shame it was my last one. The Dujac  Morey St Denis 2013, #75, is one serious wine, which defies its villages billing and just has no right to be so good. Two big names that did not exceed expectations were #94, another puzzlingly subdued bottle of Haut-Brion 1985 and #89 Giacosa Barolo Falletto 1996 where the problem is that it is not ready yet. The Gaja Sori Tilden, #73, was overtly modern and an unapologetic flirt, but a lot of fun. #82 Cavalotto Bricco Boschis, #81 Climens '90, #78 Flaccionella '06 out of d-mag, were all delicious, and the rest not mentioned all deserved their places in the top half of the draw. 


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