Top 200 wines of 2024, part three, 94 point wines, first tranche, 122-96

Some accomplished wines here in the first tranche of the 94 point wines with the majority in the performing as you would expect category, though there were some notable exceptions surprising positively in this group, half of which is Italian. Italy, of course dominated by Piedmont, showed conspicuously strongly in the overall 2024 list.

In this group #117 and #100, the Crissante barolos, really impressed, respectively showcasing the wares of the ultimate utilitarian vintage of 2018 and the benchmark vintage of 2016 - the latter was out of a magnum in La Morra. There were two other superb 2018s in this tranche, #119 and #115. Massolino did not produce single vineyard crus in 2018 so this generic normale contains material from Vigna Rionda among others.

The Gianluca Colombo Meretta, #102, is the best Langhe I have ever tried and is basically a mature vine Monvigliero, just on the other side of the hill of the famous Verduno vineyard. Fratelli Alessandria's 2010 Monvigliero, #116, is arguably as good as Burlotto's down the road, which I did not revisit this year. 

Another notable wine was #114, the Aculei La Bioca, which won a Decanter 2016 horizontal in 2020, a dense and impressive wine, drinking well already. The Brovias #112 and #109 showed their consistency and class while the 2009 surprisingly was the pick of the Monprivatos, #106 and #103, at our vertical dinner in June. The 2004 was a 94-pt wine but only when on top form, and its variability in 2024 was shocking. Twice this year it let us down, tried four times. 

Special mention to #105 Ficomontanino Granomelo, from Tuscany, near the Umbria border, which I slightly preferred to their more exclusive Seraphina, #148, 93 pts. Of the non-Italian wines a special mention goes to #107, a white burg discovery by my friend Patrick from Denver, Rollin Pernand Sous Fretille, and we loaded up in the UK on the 2010 at a great price and the 2014 (#163, 93 pts), which is a whisker behind the marvellous ‘10. Both are dead ringers for Corton Charlemagne. 

Among the Bordeaux here #97 the Sociando Mallet 1990, has emerged as the finest wine this estate has ever produced - it won our September vertical dinner quite comfortably - most of the other vintages were 90-91 pointers. The modern Sociandos seem to have lost that alluring pyrazine green signature that make the older vintages so attractive, and taste more anodyne and internationalised. 

The 1975 Magdelaine, #121, was a thrilling treat, but a subsequent bottle was faulty. The Latour 1994, #99, is the wine of the vintage but like most wines from that mediocre year - apart from Mouton which did not make this year's cut - is a little past its best, and has lost some of its verve. But it is still a marvellous glass of claret. 

Of the Rhones here #122 the Bonneau Chateauneuf divided opinions at our May dinner and was slightly wayward, a bit of a bruiser and a street fighter, savoury and fulsome with plenty of thrills and fireworks. The Rostaing Blone 2006, on the other hand, #98, was at the opposite end of the spectrum. It did not have a hair out of place, and was a study in pure finesse.