Top 200 wines of 2024, part six, 95 point wines, second tranche, 49-28

Some really top tier Barolo (and Barbaresco) in this batch...#48, the Giacomo Conterno 2001 and #47, Burlotto Monvigliero 2018, are in many senses polar opposites, with the former representing the grand noble traditional school vs. the translucent soft touch 'new modern' style of barolo of the latter (note different from 'old modern' barriquey extracted creations). Both are compelling, but neither to everyone's liking. 

Bartolo Mascarello, #45, rarely fails to impress, and is a match made in heaven with the precocious 2018 vintage. Then there were the soulful, diaphanous, weightless Giacosas, ~38 and #31, which are better for drinking now in vintages like 1998 and 2001 than the bigger 1996 vintage. And how about the riveting, virile, classical, crystalline purity of the Brovia Ca Mia 2006, #32, enhanced by drinking out of a Conterno Sensory? Cappellano is a lottery in 2004, but this bottle was a good 'un with thrilling intensity, and edginess. It was raunchy and in your face.

There are four scintillating Rousseaus in this group, #44, #37, #35 and #30, difficult to separate, two of them 2017s, two of them 1er Cru Cazetiers (1996 and 2017) and two grand cru Charmes (2007 and 2017). They all showed brilliantly at a dazzling lunch at La Trompette in May, which demolished the long standing myth that outside the 'big three' (i.e., Chambertin, Clos de Beze and Clos St-Jacques) Rousseau wines are somewhat under-achievers. Not going with my instincts and loading up on Rousseau 15-20 years ago remains my biggest regret in my wine drinking career. 

I adored the Maume Mazis-Chambertin 2007, #46, we drank on Christmas Day - an expressive, mature, tertiary grand cru red burgundy, that unlike the Rousseau wines, won't break the bank. The Lamarche Clos Vougeot 2002, #49, delivers with dexterity and aplomb every time I open one. It is now fully evolved and neither will it break the bank. The Rousseau lunch was without doubt a - top three podium - highlight of the year, and I wouldn't have missed it for the world, but it is good to know that if you really look hard enough you can still find some semblance of value in mature red burgundy. 

Three memorable rhones experiences here. Chateau Rayas 2001, #39, drank in May was a good bottle, which treated us to a veritable smorgasboard of orange zest, cherry fruit, kirsch, smoke, incense, and a hint of smoky bacon. The Robert Michel Cornas, #43, was a dream-like combination with game, and marvellous and mellow on its own. Likewise the brilliant, fully mature, Gilles Barges Brune, #34, part of one of the most memorable flights at the Laundry in Brixton in early December with the 1998 and 1999 Vallouit Cote Rotie Rosiers.  

In May, for my birthday (another top three highlight of the year), we matched four vintages of Chateau Latour at Noize, two already spoken for, but these two were 62 and 72 years old respectively, #36 and #29, generously provided by Howard and English Joel. The 1962 came out more strongly but was slowly reeled in, and overtaken, by the 1952, which had a bit more detailed complexity, and unfurled majestically. Both thrillingly alive and complex, both with years more to go. 

The 2005, #40, was the pick of the Ducru Beaucaillou vintages in the Decanter November vertical, and I regret not buying it on release. The Lafleur Petrus 2000, #42, was gorgeous fully ready top flight Pomerol, while the La Mission 1998, #41, was brooding with intent but will be magnificent in time. Top of this batch is #28, Magdelaine 1985, provided by American Joel, which was matched against the 1982. They are the epitome of old school St-Emilion and the '85 was gloriously complex but with plenty of exhilarating grip and tension.