Top 200 wines in 2024, #2, 99 points

Chateau Haut-Brion 1989

Chateau Haut-Brion 1989 got the nod over Chateau Haut Brion 1990 for the runner up spot. How come? The reason is because the 1989, drank in our 'best of first growths' series of dinners, was a nigh on perfect example of a wine which has hitherto been frustratingly variable. This bottle made me understand what all the fuss is about and why Ch Haut Brion 1989 commands such a premium over the 1990, and other legendary wines like Mouton ‘82. The 1990 Haut-Brion was about perfectly channeled power and concentration, the 1989 is about pure finesse. 

This was my note - short and sweet - like this post

Now we are talking. At last! A bottle of Haut-Brion 89 that lives up to its reputation. Some slight bricking, the surreal bouquet soars from the glass with scorched earth, gravel, graphite, herbs, olives, berries, cigar box and tobacco, and it follows through on the medium-bodied, taut, racy and seamless palate; a racehorse. It didn’t fall off as one or two naysayers were predicting and was riveting throughout. My wine of the night, and the group’s runner up … 99

Even though the group voted for Lafite 1996 as their wine of the night, the Haut Brion 1989 was in the sweet spot, whereas the Lafite is still at least a decade away from its peak drinking window. 

First among equals?

  

 Top 200 wines in 2024, #3, 99 points

Chateau Haut-Brion 1990

I have had this a few times over the years, and up until 2024 I found it to be a youthful wine with plenty of pent up energy and potential. Clearly a wine with the best years ahead of it - it was all about the future. One thing you could say was that it has been a bit more consistent than the 1989. This was the last bottle in a strong line up of wines that we had at a dinner at Cabotte in the summer, which also included Haut-Brions from 1966 and 1985, which I suspected might show better than the 1990, and already remarked on above (clearly then they didn't...marvellous as the 1966 was). The future has now arrived:

My tasting note: 

Saving the best to last Ch Haut Brion 1990 had a shattering effect; with soaring cedar and tobacco exuberance and searing scorched earth; it was ripe, with wild strawberry fruit, full-bodied and sexy, packing a lot of energy and power on the palate, but at the same time with exquisite balance, finesse and harmony. It drank ever so well – previous bottles I have had of this in recent years have been a bit tight and needed time, but not this one. This bottle also had laser like precision. This is now in its early drinking window and has the structure to last for many more decades. A gorgeous, sexy, complete, utterly brilliant wine, 99 pts. 

I wasn't expecting this to be that good. It is one of those rare occasions where you slump back in your chair and say 'wow'! In my tasting notes 99 point wines are exceedingly rare. The reason why this rates so highly is because of its sheer energy and exuberance, which is delivered with such utter precision. A good analogy would be a tennis player hitting the ball very hard, very accurately and consistently a few inches inside the base line.  

Haut-Brion 1990, second bottle from the right, the star among an elite cast:

Top 200 wines in 2024, #4, 99 points

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1985

If I remember correctly, this wine won the now defunct Wine magazine’s red wine Trophy around 1990 – as did Ch. Lynch Bages 1985 at about the same time, give or take a year – a testament to how early the 1985 clarets started to drink well. As a result, at the time, it was thought that they would not make old bones; but the vintage is now approaching its 40^th birthday, and many of the top wines show no sign of flagging and a few even go from strength to strength. None more so than Cheval Blanc. While one still encounters some outstanding bottles of Lynch '85, it is variable, while Cheval Blanc is consistently brilliant and frankly head and shoulders above the many other great wines in this vintage. 

As indicated it is a 99 point wine, nothing else goes above 95-6 in my experience, much as I love the 1985s from Mouton, Lafite and Leoville Lascases - the standout, and a stalwart, among the 'super seconds' - and a few of the other right bankers. But, let's be clear: in 1985 Cheval Blanc is in a league of its own. I drank my last bottle about five years ago, and at the time it was the best I had encountered. I have had it four times since then, and it has been even better on each occasion, and I was fortunate enough to drink it twice in 2024.

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1985 has a stunning and divine bouquet of earth, truffle, smoke and soft red fruits, plums and damsons; it has an entrancing mellowness and a casual, polite decadence, which is a huge turn on.  Over time, rich tobacco notes emerge...imagine twiddling and smelling a Cuban cigar through thumb and forefinger. But it is on the palate where it really dazzles...it is full-bodied, dense and seamless and comes at you in dizzying waves and waves. It transports you into a utopian parallel universe. It is so perfectly resolved and mellow on the palate, with tilled earth, cool fruit, and a weightlessness...and a cashmere texture and luxurious finish. After time in the glass it pivots and becomes more intense, and richer, revealing a late twist and Machiavellian side to its personality. This wine is a timeless legend…seemingly unassailable…it can't get any better than this, surely? So why isn’t this the wine of the year? Watch this space…

Top 200 wines in 2024, #5, 99 points

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1996

Back in 2001 I attended a tasting of the first growth Medocs in the 1995-1998 vintages. Two wines stood out. The 1996 Ch. Margaux and the 1996 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild.  When we revisited the best of the 1996 vintage in 2021 on its 25th anniversary these two wines again stood out among the best of the rest.  Whereas the Margaux had been open for a few years, the Lafite was only just reawakening. It was already a magnificent wine, but  with the structure to last for many decades and eventually perhaps pull clear of the Margaux. 

Fast forward to April 2024, and while the Ch Margaux 1996 was not in the line up in the best of first growths dinner, the Lafite 1996, began to reveal more of its potential. It is difficult to put into words, but this wine sets a benchmark and the standard for which other predominantly-Cabernet Bordeaux wines should aspire. Such purity, such levity, subtle yet powerful. It has an expressive nose of red and black fruits, minerals and herbs; it is rich but racy and precise, with a such a refined texture and layered intensity on the palate, impeccable poise and a marvellous finish. 

The only reason for pause is because it is still at least a decade away from its plateau and will go on for decades after that. This is not the Lafite to pick to drink today; it is the Lafite for our children; and our children's children. For today, drink the 1978, or the 1983, or the 1988, reviewed above. But it is possibly the greatest Bordeaux ever made in the 20th century, but one which will not reach its plateau of maturity until is it is in its 4th or 5th decade. 

 Top 200 wines in 2024, #6, 98 points

Robert Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990

Many wine lovers have a single, memorable 'epiphanous' experience, which often explains why they become aficionados. But unforgettable experiences do not cease at the beginning of the pilgrimage, and some other bottles you encounter along the way can also leave an indelible imprint. Indeed, one or two might leave such a profound impression that you can't stop thinking about them and you obsess about seeking them out. Almost invariably these are bottles that are extraordinarily difficult to track down. Around late 2011, MEK to her credit, sourced some mature bottles of Robert Jasmin Cote Rotie from 1980 to 1990. For me these came to define the essence of unadulterated mature Cote Rotie. It was notable that the so-called off vintages, like 1980 and 1984, performed conspicuously well, but the 1990 stood out above the rest. It was the one which made the ground shift beneath your feet. Over subsequent years it became my nominated desert island wine, but I resigned myself to the possibility of never crossing paths with one ever again. So it was with great excitement that Jonathan P listed a magnum of the Jasmin 1990 for the wine-pages Northern Rhone 'wimps' lunch in the summer of 2023. Sadly, in a bitter twist of fate, it was somewhat corked - but it still tasted magnificent I tried to convince myself - and I stood there crestfallen, forlornly clutching this magnum while others, oblivious to my grief, gaily moved on. 

However, soon after, I had managed to track down two bottles from Berry Brothers at considerable expense, a case of the heart over-ruling the head; and in mid-February 2024 I finally had the chance to open one of them, with roast beef on the bone. To my relief it was on top form.  The memories came flooding back with this untainted bottle. It had a captivating nose of smoky November bonfire and embers, with raw smoked cured bacon, Mediterranean olives, subtle East African cocoa notes, mineral slate notes encapsulated in the descriptor <<wolframite>>, as we did more than a decade ago, when we were drinking these and 1990s vintages of Noel Verset Cornas. But what made the Jasmin '90 that little extra bit special  - both in the early teens and in 2024 - was its ethereal and beguiling weightlessness, a sign of true greatness and the other end of the spectrum to the full-bore assault on the olfactory senses of Guigal La-Las. Much as I loved our gladiatorial encounter with mature La-Las at a lunch in June 2023, and much as I admire the compelling, dazzling, flamboyance of great vintages of full-fledged Jamet, mature Robert Jasmin, with the 1990 vintage at the apotheosis, trumps them all and is the pinnacle of Cote Rotie in my book….six stars?

 Top 200 wines of 2024, part ten, 98 point wines, #8 and #7

Ch. Mouton-Rothschild, 1982, #8, is an icon and a poster child for the greatest 'modern' Bordeaux vintage of our times, especially for those of us born after 1961. There is always a sense of occasion when you encounter this wine, which hushes the room, which can be variable, but at its best is full-bodied, rich, powerful, exotic and racy with a flamboyant swagger and pent up energy. The bottle we had in April, at our 'best of firsts' dinner at La Trompette, showed a new facet to this wine's personality. It has finally grown up and is fully mature: We meet again. Dark and inky. Tad of high-toned volatility, with a trademark Mouton nose of soy; rich red berry fruit and coffee notes, and on the palate initially uncharacteristically lean, austere and somewhat brooding, with the acidity coming to the fore. Then it began to unfurl, showing a new side to its personality that had a captivating elegance and finesse, whereas good bottles of younger versions of this wine in the past were defined by their energy, drive and fireworks and could be described as 'epic'. The middle-aged, grown up version of Mouton 1982 has a seamless texture and just got better and better as the night wore on, good bottles have decades to go…magnificent…

Ch. Cheval Blanc 1990, #7, is still remarkably youthful despite its age, and the best is yet to come; but this bottle did show a bit more evolution than the one we had a year earlier in April 2023 at Chris's Cheval Blanc vertical. As well as being much less evolved, the 1990 is noticeably sweeter, riper and more powerful than other Cheval Blancs from the 1980s, like, for example, the legendary 1985; it is grippier and more primary. It is blue-fruited with floral and mocha notes; it is rich, dense, multi-layered and opulent, with a signature green note despite its ripeness, and fine line of acidity, to keep it all in harmony and balance. Over the evening it keeps on improving in the glass as it fans out; it has boundless energy as it builds and builds. A wine for the ages, but which already delivers enormous pleasure. It is leaves you awe-struck and will sit in the pantheon of the greatest wines ever produce at this illustrious address.  

 Top 200 wines of 2024, part nine, 97 point wines, 13-9

La Mission Haut Brion 1990, #13, is voluptuous and sybaritic for a La Mission, and often shows better than its already legendary sibling, the 1989. It has a gorgeous scorched earth entry into an opulent, luxurious, multi-layered palate. Like the 1989 it remains remarkably youthful, but is just bursting with energy, bright fruit, and the trademark minerals, incense and scorched earth, with bracing tension and grip in its big frame. This is still a few years away from its apogee, and will be even better in 5-10 years and last for many decades. A legend in the making, which will easily outlive most of us.  

Haut-Brion 1966, #12. Right from the off, it sang like a nightingale. Resplendent, bright and vibrant; delicate and translucent; supple, lifted, diaphanous and weightless; such poise and focus; glorious old school claret, with savoury mineral notes, smoke and ash, all in harmonious low key. I would guess no more than 12% abv, probably even less. Given its age this wine needed small pours in to a medium-sized glass rather than large pours into a fish bowl. My last small pour from near the bottom of the bottle was extraordinary. 

Palmer 1999, #11, was popped and poured after another wine turned out to be defective. I expected this to be a bit reticent, but no, it blasted out of the blocks with intoxicating Margaux cedar, berries and Cuban cigar box. Based on this bottle this wine is hitting its apogee - in fact it lavishes you in dizzying pleasure and is one of those wines which launches you into the stratosphere - did the Palmer '61 ever taste this good? Surely this has to be wine of the vintage? Based on this experience it is now in the sweet spot; it has really gone up another level since I last tried it.

Mouton-Rothschild 1989, #10, variously derided over the years by armchair voyeurs, and even written off by one as a 'luncheon claret', is the gift that keeps on giving. Another exhilarating showing from this case in August, with plenty of fireworks. It was like one of those spontaneous celebrations in a large stadium for the winners of the Champion’s League as the cup is lifted. A cacophony of spices, late autumn bonfire, mulberry Christmas and incense notes, minerals, herbs, game, cedar and lead pencil. All in a deft titanium frame and effortlessly harmonious. 

Meo Camuzet Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees, 2001, #9, was the highlight of a superb evening of Meo-Camuzet wines at Noize in July. While the other bottles impressed, what set this wine apart from the others was its transcendentally captivating bouquet, which you could just sniff all night long.  A bouquet that defied the dexterity and nuance of the English language, with pure fruit and floral notes, overlaid with gamey, feral, smokey overtones, with rich berries, truffles, gardenia and other indescribably beautiful things. The palate was very accomplished too, but was overshadowed by the bouquet. For this reason one of the most memorable wines of the year, which sneaks into the top ten. 

Top 200 wines of 2024, part eight, 96 point wines, second tranche, 19-14

Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 1993, #19, from the Eden Valley in the Mount Lofty Ranges east of the Barossa Valley, showed spectacularly well in May, with tertiary notes of earth and saddle leather, together with trademark mint and eucalyptus and gorgeously vibrant plummy fruit. It was harmonious and layered, with a beautiful texture and a wonderful finish. While it is entering the last few years of its drinking window, this was a sensational showing from this South Australian icon. 

The Ch. Haut-Brion 1988 (#18) and Chateau Lafite 1988 (#17) were served at the same dinner, which was structured around the magnum of Lafite. The Haut-Brion, out of a normal bottle, was fully resolved and harmonious...and just glorious. Mellow and low key it had beautiful finesse with earthy tertiary tobacco notes to the fore. A joy and a really classy bottle of Haut Brion, right in the sweet spot.  In magnum format the Lafite 1988 is imperious. As is often the case with Lafite, it is not a showy wine and was slow out of the blocks … but it grew and built over the evening, eventually to another celestial level. It had ash notes and an alluring tobacco leafiness with refreshing green overtones, but as always it is on the mid palate where this wine excels. It still has a pleasing grippiness and an austere note to whisper to you that you don’t need to rush to drink any remaining bottles (or magnums, if you are so lucky). 

The Barolo Castelletto 2020, #16, from Monforte d’Alba is a recent - and most welcome - addition to the Burlotto portfolio, and was the runaway star at our November Barolo lunch, packed with many big name producers. It has a bright ruby translucent hue, with a mesmerising perfumed nose of wild strawberries, flowers, sage and other herbs, and pine; it is pure and weightless and nuanced. Another extraordinarily precocious and triumphant wine from the Burlotto 'modern, modern' school of winemaking. 

Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot 2006, #15, was spellbinding from start to finish with dazzling notes of violets, olives, pepper, smoke and game. It was thrillingly edgy and a tad volatile, which reinforced the sense of high drama. A wine characterised by its raciness and electric tension through the mid-plate to the finish. 

Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco 2007, #14, needs a lot of air and a big glass to express itself, otherwise you will miss out. While the Pie Rupestris is characterised by its richness and power, Pie Franco is more defined by its refinement, elegance, nuance and its bewitching, salamander-like persona. It has a riveting pure, fresh, expressive bouquet with bright red fruits, balsamico, and bracing blood orange acidity, and is alternatively spicey, minerally and earthy. It is hard to pin down and is constantly changing in the glass and all the while remains ethereal and weightless. It is mysterious and endlessly complex as it weaves its wares.  

Top 200 wines of 2024, part seven, 96 point wines, first tranche, 27-20

The Vallouit Cote Rotie Rosiers 1998, #27, is a wilder child than its 1999 sibling (#53 above); unpredictable and volatile it always produces fireworks. This bottle in early December took us on a thrill ride, with raw red meat and dripping blood, white pepper, iron ore, and wolframite; some Madagascan cocoa, briary, garigue, brine, olives and tapenade, with a spine-tingling bracing acidity, and a menacing edginess to its personality. You could easily mistake this for a great example of Noel Verset Cornas.  

The Leflaive Batard Montrachet 1996, #26, Steve's kind contribution at a celebratory dinner at Elystan St in mid-December, was remarkably youthful looking, tight and reductive on opening, with toasty oak and plenty of grippy tannin. And then it just burst into life and opened gloriously. It became rich, expressive, layered, intense and detailed, with citrus and saline oceanic notes. 

La Conseillante 2010, #25, revisited for the first time in nearly a decade, a wine which stood out in an ever so impressive line up of 2010 EPs many years ago. Rich, regal, powerful and still youthful. Truffle, licorice, violets and perfectly ripe - predominantly black - fruits, with classy, complex mineral terroir notes; it is opulent with a luxurious mouthfeel, gloriously textured, seamless and silky on the palate with a long languid finish; very fine.

Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris, 2001, #24. After the disappointment of a corked bottle in March, and the previous May, this more than made amends. When these wines are on, like this one was, they are full throttle, captivating and thrilling, with everything dialled up to 11. It is rich, perfumed, detailed, powerful and with superb precision and weightlessness.  But for every good bottle you seem to get one duff one. 

Kindly opened by Antoine in Chambery, the Lamarche Grand Rue 2003, #23, was an absolute delight and better than we dared to hope, especially after the cork crumbled, which was a blessing in disguise because it had more time to express itself. The wine itself had a rich, berry, lux attack and it had Grand Cru gravitas with superb mouthfeel and finish.

The Meo-Camuzet 1995, #22, like its 1990 sibling (#67 above) it was matched against, was fully mature, but with so much more vibrant energy. Like its flight mate it had a lush opulence and complexity, with myriad spice and orange peel notes, but whereas the 1990 had metamorphosed into a state of decadence, this had a little more grip and tension, and a sumptuous finish.

La Mission Haut Brion 1988, #21, impressed as much as it did in 2023 when we rushed out to secure a consortium purchase. Tasted next to the brooding 1998 (#41 above) at Graham's memorial dinner, this tastes more than a decade older, but it is a wine at its apogee. So much going on here, with wonderful incense on the attack, a compelling and luxurious palate, with such poise, nuance and some cool notes.  

Ch. Magdelaine 1982, #20, came out a nose in front after an epic head-to-head with the 1985, #28. Drank out of a Conterno Sensory, it had an evolved colour, with mahogany, ripe, rich, berries, incense, exotic nuances of ginger and an array of spices, and plenty of tobacco. It was aromatically more expressive, intense and complex than the 1985, at least initially. Later it developed glorious tertiary complexity, with truffles and myriad tobacco notes.  

Top 200 wines of 2024, part six, 95 point wines, second tranche, 49-28

Some really top tier Barolo (and Barbaresco) in this batch...#48, the Giacomo Conterno 2001 and #47, Burlotto Monvigliero 2018, are in many senses polar opposites, with the former representing the grand noble traditional school vs. the translucent soft touch 'new modern' style of barolo of the latter (note different from 'old modern' barriquey extracted creations). Both are compelling, but neither to everyone's liking. 

Bartolo Mascarello, #45, rarely fails to impress, and is a match made in heaven with the precocious 2018 vintage. Then there were the soulful, diaphanous, weightless Giacosas, ~38 and #31, which are better for drinking now in vintages like 1998 and 2001 than the bigger 1996 vintage. And how about the riveting, virile, classical, crystalline purity of the Brovia Ca Mia 2006, #32, enhanced by drinking out of a Conterno Sensory? Cappellano is a lottery in 2004, but this bottle was a good 'un with thrilling intensity, and edginess. It was raunchy and in your face.

There are four scintillating Rousseaus in this group, #44, #37, #35 and #30, difficult to separate, two of them 2017s, two of them 1er Cru Cazetiers (1996 and 2017) and two grand cru Charmes (2007 and 2017). They all showed brilliantly at a dazzling lunch at La Trompette in May, which demolished the long standing myth that outside the 'big three' (i.e., Chambertin, Clos de Beze and Clos St-Jacques) Rousseau wines are somewhat under-achievers. Not going with my instincts and loading up on Rousseau 15-20 years ago remains my biggest regret in my wine drinking career. 

I adored the Maume Mazis-Chambertin 2007, #46, we drank on Christmas Day - an expressive, mature, tertiary grand cru red burgundy, that unlike the Rousseau wines, won't break the bank. The Lamarche Clos Vougeot 2002, #49, delivers with dexterity and aplomb every time I open one. It is now fully evolved and neither will it break the bank. The Rousseau lunch was without doubt a - top three podium - highlight of the year, and I wouldn't have missed it for the world, but it is good to know that if you really look hard enough you can still find some semblance of value in mature red burgundy. 

Three memorable rhones experiences here. Chateau Rayas 2001, #39, drank in May was a good bottle, which treated us to a veritable smorgasboard of orange zest, cherry fruit, kirsch, smoke, incense, and a hint of smoky bacon. The Robert Michel Cornas, #43, was a dream-like combination with game, and marvellous and mellow on its own. Likewise the brilliant, fully mature, Gilles Barges Brune, #34, part of one of the most memorable flights at the Laundry in Brixton in early December with the 1998 and 1999 Vallouit Cote Rotie Rosiers.  

In May, for my birthday (another top three highlight of the year), we matched four vintages of Chateau Latour at Noize, two already spoken for, but these two were 62 and 72 years old respectively, #36 and #29, generously provided by Howard and English Joel. The 1962 came out more strongly but was slowly reeled in, and overtaken, by the 1952, which had a bit more detailed complexity, and unfurled majestically. Both thrillingly alive and complex, both with years more to go. 

The 2005, #40, was the pick of the Ducru Beaucaillou vintages in the Decanter November vertical, and I regret not buying it on release. The Lafleur Petrus 2000, #42, was gorgeous fully ready top flight Pomerol, while the La Mission 1998, #41, was brooding with intent but will be magnificent in time. Top of this batch is #28, Magdelaine 1985, provided by American Joel, which was matched against the 1982. They are the epitome of old school St-Emilion and the '85 was gloriously complex but with plenty of exhilarating grip and tension. 

 

Top 200 wines of 2024, part five, 95 point wines, first tranche, 72-50

Some stunning wines here. Piper Rare, #63, was my fizz of the year; intense citrus, rich, lithe and racy. Among the whites a 2008 Fevre Grand Cru, #69, which was as clean as a whistle, the 2017 Niellon, #62 and 2011 Bouzereau Meursault Perrieres, #51, are top drawer white burgundies, with the latter my white wine of the year for wine-pages, but not the highest ranked on this list.

Of the four from Piedmonts, the GLC Barolo, #72, is cutting edge, with as little oak ageing as possible, while the Ca Morissio, #70, while not as good as the one we had in 2022, has a purity and finesse on a higher level than the regular Monprivato Mascarellos. The Grasso, #64, really stood out in a 2004 Barolo tasting last summer, while the Cavalotto Vignolo, #50, is rocky, intense, old school and thrilling. 

The 2007 Jamet, #61, is still young, so lively, explosive and expressive. The 1999 Vallouit, #53, was a similar wine, but on the other end of the maturity spectrum, gorgeous and better to drink now than the Jamet. Of the two new world wines, the bombastically titled 2007 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard, #68, was suitably over-the-top and caricatured, making no pretense of aping Bordeaux, but it is well made and a theatrical thrill. The 1996 Grange, #54, is also a pleasure bomb and is in the sweet spot.

Of the two red burgundies, there was some discussion as to whether the 1990 Meo Camuzet Clos Vougeot #67 was not right but I thought it was just a fully mature bottle, with plenty of woodsy truffly notes, it delivered such pleasure. The Hospice Mazis Collignon 1999 I caught at the beginning of its drinking window and is big framed and thrilling to behold. 

Strong representation of claret here, especially in the 2000 vintage. The 2000 Pichon Baron, #58, is still youthful with such pure cabernet fruit (from the same plot as Latour), while the 2000 Beychevelle, #55, was an enthralling bottle and stole my heart. The 1995 Latour, #66, is a complete wine, with such noble finesse, and drinking well already, while the 2002 #57 is less ready, but has a little bit of extra precision. 

Ducru Beaucaillou is so highly represented in the top 200 from our November vertical that I left a couple out (the 1995 and the 2016, 94 and 95 points respectively). The 2010, #52, a towering wine, is surprisingly approachable now, while the 2000, #59, a poster child for the great millennium vintage is fully ready now, and the 2018, #56, is so ripe and rich, but beautifully held together with fine structure and luxurious tannins.  

 Top 200 wines of 2024, part four, 94 point wines, second tranche, 95-73

Some big names in the second tranche of 94 point wines, along with some more niche, artisanal creations, like the superb #95, Boncie Le Trame sangiovese-based Tuscan, made in miniscule quantities and difficult to source. Other wines in this group which set the pulse racing, included the utterly gorgeous #86 Thymiopolous late bottled rose 2013 from Greece, my rose off the year beating off formidable Spanish opposition (good luck trying to track one down though) and the two Garesio Barolos #79 and #74 again from the '18 and '16 vintages respectively. These are thrilling young nebbiolos from this relatively new (15 yo) winery with a vital, rocky, Serralunga signature. The Gianetto is more approachable than the more famous Cerretta. Still in Barolo, #85 was a veritable 50 year-old treat, a perfectly resolved, mellow, intact and delicious old 1974 Fontanafredda, which saw in the new year. Another exciting new discovery was the Rivers Marie Summa Vineyard, #83, glorious Cali Pinot infused with fresh sea breeze. Tried at the same event was a delicious, unpretentious, magnum of Pride Mountain Merlot, #93, which tasted like mature high class Pomerol. 

Among the bigger names in this tranche #91 the L'Eglise Clinet illustrated just why this estate is on such a roll now, and challenging the very best Pomerols. I tasted many excellent to outstanding 2000 Bordeaux in 2024 and Haut-Bailly was modern but so impressive and ran rings around its out-of-sorts, younger, 2005 sibling. The Mouton 1993, #76 with its controversial label, would I thought be on its way out, but no; it spoke to me and sang gloriously on a cold February night. Delicious fully resolved Mouton, shame it was my last one. The Dujac  Morey St Denis 2013, #75, is one serious wine, which defies its villages billing and just has no right to be so good. Two big names that did not exceed expectations were #94, another puzzlingly subdued bottle of Haut-Brion 1985 and #89 Giacosa Barolo Falletto 1996 where the problem is that it is not ready yet. The Gaja Sori Tilden, #73, was overtly modern and an unapologetic flirt, but a lot of fun. #82 Cavalotto Bricco Boschis, #81 Climens '90, #78 Flaccionella '06 out of d-mag, were all delicious, and the rest not mentioned all deserved their places in the top half of the draw. 

 Top 200 wines of 2024, part three, 94 point wines, first tranche, 122-96

Some accomplished wines here in the first tranche of the 94 point wines with the majority in the performing as you would expect category, though there were some notable exceptions surprising positively in this group, half of which is Italian. Italy, of course dominated by Piedmont, showed conspicuously strongly in the overall 2024 list.

In this group #117 and #100, the Crissante barolos, really impressed, respectively showcasing the wares of the ultimate utilitarian vintage of 2018 and the benchmark vintage of 2016 - the latter was out of a magnum in La Morra. There were two other superb 2018s in this tranche, #119 and #115. Massolino did not produce single vineyard crus in 2018 so this generic normale contains material from Vigna Rionda among others.

The Gianluca Colombo Meretta, #102, is the best Langhe I have ever tried and is basically a mature vine Monvigliero, just on the other side of the hill of the famous Verduno vineyard. Fratelli Alessandria's 2010 Monvigliero, #116, is arguably as good as Burlotto's down the road, which I did not revisit this year. 

Another notable wine was #114, the Aculei La Bioca, which won a Decanter 2016 horizontal in 2020, a dense and impressive wine, drinking well already. The Brovias #112 and #109 showed their consistency and class while the 2009 surprisingly was the pick of the Monprivatos, #106 and #103, at our vertical dinner in June. The 2004 was a 94-pt wine but only when on top form, and its variability in 2024 was shocking. Twice this year it let us down, tried four times. 

Special mention to #105 Ficomontanino Granomelo, from Tuscany, near the Umbria border, which I slightly preferred to their more exclusive Seraphina, #148, 93 pts. Of the non-Italian wines a special mention goes to #107, a white burg discovery by my friend Patrick from Denver, Rollin Pernand Sous Fretille, and we loaded up in the UK on the 2010 at a great price and the 2014 (#163, 93 pts), which is a whisker behind the marvellous ‘10. Both are dead ringers for Corton Charlemagne. 

Among the Bordeaux here #97 the Sociando Mallet 1990, has emerged as the finest wine this estate has ever produced - it won our September vertical dinner quite comfortably - most of the other vintages were 90-91 pointers. The modern Sociandos seem to have lost that alluring pyrazine green signature that make the older vintages so attractive, and taste more anodyne and internationalised. 

The 1975 Magdelaine, #121, was a thrilling treat, but a subsequent bottle was faulty. The Latour 1994, #99, is the wine of the vintage but like most wines from that mediocre year - apart from Mouton which did not make this year's cut - is a little past its best, and has lost some of its verve. But it is still a marvellous glass of claret. 

Of the Rhones here #122 the Bonneau Chateauneuf divided opinions at our May dinner and was slightly wayward, a bit of a bruiser and a street fighter, savoury and fulsome with plenty of thrills and fireworks. The Rostaing Blone 2006, on the other hand, #98, was at the opposite end of the spectrum. It did not have a hair out of place, and was a study in pure finesse.