Friday, 9 January 2026

Wines of the year 2025, summary

I listed 250 wines that I rated 93 points or more in 2025. I could have listed a few more because I may have overlooked some, and deliberately didn't list everything (main omissions were a couple of bottles of clearly below par high end claret). But looking back it was another memorable year for indulging my wine loving passion, and I count myself as lucky to have encountered so many high calibre wines during an otherwise mixed year. 

Of the wines I listed, Bordeaux dominated with 103 (41.2% of the total), followed by (mainly Northern) Rhone 42 (16.8%), then Piedmont 35 (14.0%), Burgundy exactly evenly distributed between reds and whites, 24 (9.6%), with champagne on 13 (5.2%), Loire seven (2.8%), Tuscany, Australia and USA five (2.0%), Germany and NZ three (1.2%), Spain two (0.8%) and one each for Alsace, Jura and Lebanon. 

Of the top four, Bordeaux was slightly less than my holdings by volume, 41% vs 51% of my total holdings, as was Piedmont, 14% vs 18.5%, and burgundy, 9.6% vs 14.8%, while Rhone at 16.8% was ten percentage points above my holdings of 6.8% of the total. While it no doubt was a memorable year for Northern Rhone, this was a direct result of the five Northern Rhone-specific, high-end, off lines during the year, at which most of the top producers featured.  

But I would say it was a disappointing year for burgundy. Not only did burgundy not compete well at the highest level - I did open quite a few expensive bottles and I did encounter expensive bottles through the generosity of friends - but few really cut the mustard, with the notable exception of two superb bottles of De Montille, a Corton Charlemagne and a Pommard Rugiens, both 95 pts. The biggest disappointment was an Armand Rousseau Chambertin 2002 (88 points). And I opened so many flawed bottles of red burgundy, but I do not recall any premoxed whites thankfully.  

Of scoring, revisited 

As noted in the opening post, based on a what I think is a representative sample of wines tasted my average score was 91.6, with a standard deviation of 2.9, which implies 68% scored between 88.7 and 94.5 - or a bit under two thirds between 89 and 94. There were so many good wines that I rated 92 - and 91 - that did not make the cut. So in no sense am I inflating scores as some of the critics do these days to grab attention or to curry favour with producers. 

During the year I did experiment with a lot with cheaper wines - hence the El cheapo whites from the Wine Society thread on wine-pages - and lot of these helped to drag down the average...especially the TWS Chilean chardonnays! If I was scoring supermarket wines only I would imagine that my average would be around ten points lower. 

Only two wines scored 98, and I feel that awarding a wine 100 is somewhat disingenuous because there is always the potential for something better. Bandying around 100 point scores makes a mockery of what is anyway a purely subjective scoring system with, in my opinion, no credible scientific foundation. 

For our purposes most of the range of 50-100 is redundant, and I suspect I am typical of my wine drinking peers, with about two thirds of my scores in a five point range with the tails petering out in the high 90s and low-mid 80s respectively.  

Top producers by volume in my lists (two or more inclusions)

1/ Bordeaux


2/ Other 










Tuesday, 6 January 2026

Wines of the year 2026, part six, 98 points

 Just two entrants in this category, which will be the last. 


Lafite Rothschild 1953 was my wine of the year in 2020, and this was the second and last bottle of that brace.  This second one opened in April for a good friend born in the same year, had a healthy translucent garnet colour with some orange at the rim, and was characteristically leisurely out of the blocks. Then after a few minutes, and over the following two hours, it transformed into something celestial. Ever so light on its feet and elegant, and of course fully resolved, it had an astonishing mid-palate with some honeyed notes and other delicate herbal (lavender?) notes and exquisite nuances, finishing with a glorious flourish. 


It was hard to put into words, but the refinement and complexity of this wine was dazzling and takes Lafite to another level compared to the examples from the ‘70s, ‘80s and 90s we have been so enthused by since that horizontal Lafite tasting in 2018. This wine may not have the power of a great Latour, but it is at the pinnacle of fine claret. And the Lafites we drink from the 80s, 90s or 00s may only be revealing a fraction of their potential. 

The Chateau d'Yquem 2009 tasted in September is a towering, monumental wine. It is multi-dimensional, multi-faceted with myriad nuances – including rich apricots, citrus and tropical fruits, saffron and other herbal notes - with great intensity and at the same time incredible poise and precision. It is perfectly poised with balancing acidity. Best young Yquem I have tried and I think it surpasses the 2001 and the famous 1988/89/90 triumverate. 


Wines of the year 2025, part five, 97 points

Nearly there now, here we have listed 16 towering wines scoring 97 points, which will live long in the memory, two of which were in my top five wines last year - the Lafite 1996 and Cheval Blanc 1985 - what a privilege to try them again in 2025. There are four Lafites in this list among 11 Bordeaux accounting for more than two thirds of the total, confirming Bordeaux's dominance. While the 1996 Lafite is one of the greatest wines ever made, it is still a long way from being ready, and you are much better off drinking the 2000 now, which has the structure but also the accessibility to drink with enormous pleasure. 

Piedmont finishes strongly with three wines in this list, with one each from Northern and Southern Rhone. The most emotional wine in this list is the Noel Verset Cornas 1995, and by far the best example of several tried over the years, a beguiling, fine-boned, ethereal bottle, better than another one in Bath in February, and even eclipsing the Verset 1998 served at that same lunch (and rated 96 pts in the previous list). 

Perhaps the most thrilling wine on this list is the La Mission Haut Brion 1975, a wine I finally got to taste and it didn't disappoint, putting on a pyrotechnic display, and dominating the other - generally excellent - 1975 clarets at that dinner in March. Among the 1985 firsts growths at our dinner in November it was a photo finish between the two Rothschilds and Cheval Blanc, but on this occasion Mouton just got the nod - the best ever bottle of this wine. 

Margaux 1985 was a bit below par at that dinner but at another one six months earlier in May it was imperious and hence is included in this list. At the November 1985 dinner my bottle of Latour put in a really impressive performance too (96 pts), and it reminded me of a stunning double magnum in April opened by Jono for his 40th and released from the chateau a few weeks earlier. This big format was pristine and absolutely in the perfect spot with the poise, majesty, gravitas and imprimatur of a fully mature Latour. 

However the 1985 claret that thrilled me the most in 2025 was La Conseillante, at a mini vertical dinner in September; a kaleidoscopic wine, which put on a masterclass, and which still has considerable verve and energy.  At our 1995 dinner a week before the 1985 dinner, Lafite was head and shoulders above all the other first growths, though Mouton impressed again on its third showing in 2025 (96 pts, previous list). 

The wine I listed for the wine-pages wine of the year was a Giacosa Fratelli Barolo 1982, which I picked up for a song at auction, and had everything that is mesmerising and enthralling about seriously aged Barolo. Not to be confused with Bruno Giacosa...I am a unrelenting advocate for the 2018 Piedmont vintage and the straight Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto is the best example and just a dream come true. You could pick it up very cheaply in 2025. 

At our Burlotto extravaganza back in early March, the 2020 vintage shone brightest, with the Monvigliero coming out tops, just as good as his Castelletto 2020 in 2024, these are extraordinary fleet-footed and diaphanous wines, and it is hard to fathom how they can improve, only evolve. The Chateau d'Yquem 2001 was tasted next to the 1990. They were similar, but the 2001 was superior, but staggeringly was not the best Yquem I tried in 2025 (watch this space). 

Lastly a thrilling evening in the middle of nowhere in Normandy in mid-October, Michelin star dining with some sensational mushroom dishes from the surrounding forest, Chateau Rayas 2011 did not disappoint, with the fireworks starting immediately, it was a decadent but at the same time beguiling and soulful wine, easily worth the entry price.  



Monday, 5 January 2026

Wines of the year 2025, part four, 96 points

From the outstanding 95 pointers to some really incredible wines scoring 96 points, with the list down to 24 now (43 95 pointers, 73 94 pointers and 87 93 pointers). Bordeaux increases its dominance with 11 wines (46% of the total), with Piedmont and Northern Rhone on four each (17%) and Burgundy on three (13%) and Alsace putting it is first appearance with Australia also claiming a spot in this elite company. 






Sunday, 4 January 2026

Wines of the year 2025, part three, 95 points

Moving on to some of the really outstanding wines I enjoyed in 2025, which I rated 95 points, again in the approximate date order I drank them. This list of 47 wines is shorter than for the 94 point wines (73) and 93 point wines (88), and Bordeaux continues its dominance, accounting for 20 or 43% of the wines listed here, but Northern Rhone continues to show prominently with 11 (23%), Burgundy, Champagne and Piedmont on four each (9%), Australia two and New Zealand and USA one each. 








Saturday, 3 January 2026

Wines of the year 2025, part two, 94 point wines

Moving on to 94 pointers there are 73 nominated wines, with 31 of them (42%) from Bordeaux, 15 (21%) from (mainly Northern) Rhone, 9 (12%) from Piedmont, 6 (8%) from burgundy (mostly red), 3 (4%) each from Champagne and USA, and a few others. Again these are in the approximate date order on which they were consumed, rather than being ranked from top to bottom, or vice versa. 






Friday, 2 January 2026

Wines of the year 2025, part one, 93 point wines

Another active year for wine events and tastings in 2025. Using a representative sample of wines I tasted, my average score is ~91.5 with a standard deviation of roughly three, which means around - or a bit less than - two thirds of the wines I score would fall in the 89-94 point range - this is a subjective scoring method widely used and accepted by others. 

Last year I listed my top 200 wines in order of merit. This time I will start the ball rolling with wines I subjectively rated 93 points, moving upwards from there. These are high calibre wines in my opinion - there were a lot of excellent wines I scored 92 points in 2025, which did not make the cut. 

In this initial list there are 88 wines I rated 93 points in order of the approximate time of the year I drank them and not on relative merit. Bordeaux accounted for 28 wines or 32% of the total dominating the field followed by Piedmont 14 (16%), Burgundy 12 (14%), Rhone ten (11%), Champagne six (7%), Tuscany five (6%) and various others.