A hard act to follow after 1982, 1983 is generally a good vintage, but it is a difficult one to understand. It is tempting therefore to fall back on the conventional wisdom, which dictates that the stand out appellation is Margaux, and that Chateau Margaux and Palmer stand head and shoulders above everything else. That might be true, but it is probably a lot more complicated than that. For a start, the Achilles heel of these two hot favourites is that they can be frustratingly variable from bottle to bottle (see notes on cellar tracker for example), while some other wines, which may not have impressed certain critics in their youth have evolved beautifully, and may be a much better bet especially taking price into consideration.
Starting off in the Margaux appellation it is certainly true that Chateau Palmer made a stronger wine than the previous year, after experimenting with higher yields in 1982. Likewise Rauzan Segla and Prieure Lichine made very good wines, after indifferent efforts in 1982. Chateau Margaux's 1983 is often compared to its 1982 and commentators have been evenly divided over their relative merits. The 1982, which can also be inconsistent, is usually all about exquisite poise and finesse, while the 1983 is typically brawnier, more powerful and backward, like a boorish interloper. Richard Burton meets Clint Eastwood?
These differences were evident when we tried them side by side in a flight with the 1986, in NewYork City 5-6 years ago. The 1983 was more like the 1986 than the 1982, but less extreme and it has to be said less impressive. Still that is a pretty high bar, and Chateau Margaux stakes a robust claim for top dog billing. Chateau Palmer, meanwhile, when it is on form, is a powerful and compelling 1983, and it is regarded as the strongest challenger to Margaux's de facto wine of the vintage status. But in my experience it sometimes lacks the subtlety of other vintages of Palmer like '78, '79, '85, '90 and '96.
I have not tried Lafite 1983 but I suspect it is cut from similar cloth to the vastly under-rated wines of Latour and Mouton-Rothschild. They are not blockbusters but appear to be more consistent than the two Margaux wines, and at age 30 have evolved into quite magnificent mature bottles of claret. More for British than young American tastes perhaps. Chateau Haut-Brion made a sublime 1983, in a trademark and accessible style, like the 1978 and 1979. La Mission Haut-Brion made a similarly seductive and precocious wine. However, these two were fast developers and have been drinking well for two decades. Less than pristine bottles might already be on the down slope. Of the two La Mission may now be the safer bet.
In fact, as a generalisation, and with the exception of Margaux and Palmer, most 1983s are unlikely to make as old bones as their equivalent 1982s and will not repay further keeping; but a lot of them are in a good place and will provide a lot of pleasure for a few more years. If you like your claret fully mature and not overly extracted, then well stored 1983s are worth seeking out. Elsewhere on the left bank the standout wine is Gruaud-Larose, an estate which was very strong in the mid-80s. Last tasted in 2010 it was stunning; it has a habit of punching well above its weight in 1983 horizonals. Talbot, also from the Cordier stable, is not that far behind.
True to form Pichon-Lalande also made another good wine in 1983, but I prefer the '78, '79 and '81; and judging by the last bottle I had earlier this year it needs drinking up. In fact Lynch-Bages, another Pauillac, now just edges the Pichon Lalande in my reckoning, and is a wonderful mature Pauillac. In St-Estephe I love the quirkiness of Cos D'Estournel, but it is a bit hollow around the middle.
On the right bank the 'go to' wine for wine lovin' folk is Cheval Blanc, which is also fully mature now, but is it really the best right bank? It is a good example of Cheval Blanc, but it cannot match the finesse and class of the 1982 nor the deft touch of the 1985. I had no luck with a case of Ausone, which I reluctantly sold. Canon made an excellent wine in 1983, better than Figeac, which is nevertheless enjoyable in its own quirky way. In Pomerol there are a lot of enjoyable fully mature wines but few of them are really profound. Apart from L'Evangile that is, which was sublime in 2010, and a quinessential expression of mature Pomerol at its best. I prefer it to the Cheval Blanc I drank last year.
Top ten clarets in 1983
10. Lynch-Bages
9. Haut-Brion
8. La Mission Haut-Brion
7. Cheval Blanc
6. Palmer
5. Margaux
4. L'Evangile
3. Latour
2. Mouton Rothschild
1. Gruaud-Larose
Notable wines I have not tried
Lafite, Lafleur, Petrus, Le Pin
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