The claret vintage series: part thirteen 1978

Overall vintage rating: ****

One of my favourite years, and one for true claret aficionados, 1978 has been dubbed 'the miracle vintage'. It was all but written off before being rescued by a run of perfect dry, warm, weather between the second week of August and the second week of October. Not only is it the best vintage between 1978 and 1981, it is also my favourite 1970s vintage. Qualitatively I would place it at least on a par with 1970 and 1975, despite the perceived lack of 'superstar' wines. 

While many 1978s are now in decline there are plenty of exceptions and some outstanding wines were made throughout the region. In fact the quality and tenacity of some of these wines has surprised some commentators. In particular, my two top wines of the vintage, Petrus and Lafite, received very modest reviews at the outset. Meanwhile there are up to 20 wines, which make a strong case to be included in my top ten wines of the vintage. 

I have tried Petrus three times and on two occasions it was remarkable. At a Petrus mini-vertical in 2000 it was the star wine, and outclassed the 1982. It again excelled itself at a 'best of cellar' dinner at the Ledbury at Christmas 2009, where Lafite 1978 was also one of the best wines in a star-studded line up. Previous to that I opened my only bottle of Lafite 1978 with low expectations, only to be astonished at how good it was. It is a classic expression of Lafite, which is now at full maturity. The 1988 (my second ranked wine in that vintage) is following in its footsteps.

Among the other first growths Mouton was a little bit off the pace, while Latour made an outstanding wine, which has been drinking superbly for about 15 years. Staying in Pauillac, Pichon Lalande made a great wine, the first in a 12 year purple patch for this estate (1978-89). For me, it is the second best Pichon Lalande in that golden era. The other notable overachiever in Pauillac in 1978 is Grand Puy Lacoste. Tried in 2006 it was a spiritual match for the 1995, tasted alongside it. In St-Julien the best wine in a high quality line up is Ducru Beaucaillou, in many ways the Lafite of St-Julien, followed by the two Leovilles, Barton and Lascases, Gruaud-Larose and Talbot.

In the Margaux appellation, 1978 marked a welcome return to form for Chateau Margaux, after 17 barren years and after the estate was sold to the Mentzelopoulus family the previous year. However, while it has a somewhat rustic charm, Chateau Palmer is a classier more polished wine in 1978, and so is the 1979 vintage of Chateau Margaux. Chateau Giscours, which was on a roll in the 1970s, made another excellent wine, while La Lagune a bit further south is a solid but most alluring 1978. 

Arguably the strongest region in 1978 was Pessac Leognan, with four strong contenders for the top ten. Leading from the front, and showing a clean pair of heels to its sibling Haut-Brion, is a profound La Mission Haut Brion, atypically full bodied and backward for the vintage. While not in the same league, Haut-Brion is nevertheless a super wine, which pushes the envelope of funkiness; but it does suffer from some bottle variation, and is arguably at least matched by the outstanding wines produced by La Tour Haut Brion and Domaine De Chevalier in this vintage. Back on the right bank Trotanoy is a lush sex bomb, Pomerol at its seductive best. Nothing I have encountered in St-Emilion is particularly worth mentioning. 

Ten very handy runners up

20. Les Forts De Latour

19. Talbot

18. La Lagune

17. Giscours

16. Leoville Lascases

15. Gruaud-Larose

14. Leoville Barton

13. Chateau Margaux

12. Haut-Brion

11.  Grand Puy Lacoste

My top ten wines in 1978

10. Ducru Beaucaillou

9. Domaine De Chevalier

8. La Tour Haut-Brion

7. Trotanoy

6. Pichon Lalande

5. Palmer

4. Latour

3. La Mission Haut-Brion

2. Lafite 

1. Petrus

Wines not tried

Ausone, Lafleur