Overall vintage rating ***
In many ways a classic vintage for aficionados, with no superstars outside of Sauternes and Barsac, by far the most successful appellation in this vintage. But we are focusing on claret, i.e., red Bordeaux, here. The vintage of 1988 was more successful on the left bank, but even here the results were mixed. Only average wines were made in St-Estephe and Margaux, but some very good ones in Pauillac and St-Julien. On the right bank the results were patchy, but there were a few strong efforts apparently, notable among them Lafleur and Certan De May in Pomerol, wines I have not tried.
In this series I will list what I consider to be the top ten wines of the vintage, but these are only wines I have tried. In my opinion the wine of the vintage is Mouton Rothschild, a wine, which is only just starting to blossom after a slow start. It is a close call though, between the two Rothschilds. Lafite is a wine that is evolving even more glacially, and will always be in the running. It is a quintessentially classic style of Lafite, without an ounce of fat. Like Mouton it is true to the house style.
Likewise Latour, which has been drinking well for a few years and the Pichons, which have been drinking for two decades. Haut-Brion is a classic example evolving at about the same rate as Mouton.Among the other success stories Gruaud-Larose, Leoville Barton and Lynch Bages are very classic clarets, which are drinking beautifully. In fact, the 1988 is my favourite ever Lynch. Apart from the two Pomerols mentioned above, any wines unlucky not to be included in the list? Probably Leoville-Lascases, Talbot and Pape Clement, but probably few others really. Angelus is the only right bank representative on the list.
Likewise Latour, which has been drinking well for a few years and the Pichons, which have been drinking for two decades. Haut-Brion is a classic example evolving at about the same rate as Mouton.Among the other success stories Gruaud-Larose, Leoville Barton and Lynch Bages are very classic clarets, which are drinking beautifully. In fact, the 1988 is my favourite ever Lynch. Apart from the two Pomerols mentioned above, any wines unlucky not to be included in the list? Probably Leoville-Lascases, Talbot and Pape Clement, but probably few others really. Angelus is the only right bank representative on the list.
There are several disappointing wines, which will never give much pleasure. Chateau Margaux for example is as hard as nails. The 1998 Margaux is much more accessible; indeed even the 2008 Margaux is friendlier than the 1988. Down in that neck of the woods La Lagune borders on being anorexic. As already mentioned there are few wines to write home about on the right bank. But there are enough good wines in the benchmark appellations of Pauillac and St-Julien, and superstars in Sauternes/Barsac, to make this overall a good vintage.
10. Angelus, St-Emilion
9. Leoville-Barton, St-Julien
8. Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
7. Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien
6. Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan
5. Pichon-Baron, Pauillac
4. Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac
3. Latour, Pauillac
2. Lafite, Pauillac
1. Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac
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