Wines in July

Wines in July

Chateau Latour 1986

A deep colour with a classical albeit restrained Cabernet-infused Latour nose of lead pencil, minerals and some forest floor. On the palate it was medium to full bodied, dense and powerful. It is regal with a touch of austerity but a long authoritative finish. This wine has been criticised for falling short of the other Medoc first growths...I am not so sure about that...it is tremendously satisfying to drink now, and will last for another couple of decades. Another under-rated Latour along with the 1983, 1985 and 1988. 94

Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1990

Scrumptious, chewy and savoury, but it lacks a bit of grip on the mid-palate. You can tell this is a wine from a hot vintage with low acid. It doesn't have enough Cabernet gravitas and nervosity. It doesn't have the complexity of the 1989 either.mThis bottle was past its best and the 1989 leaves it trailing, though Cos in my experience is notorious for bottle variation. 90 points is giving it the benefit of the doubt.

Chateau Palmer 1985

It is a nice mature Palmer with hints of Margaux berries, sandalwood and cedar. It has a finely resolved palate with a hint of greeness on the back end. It is not the greatest 1985, nor in the top echelon of Palmers, but it has been drinking nicely for 20 years, and it is holding up just fine. 90

Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoreuses, 1985

An explosive, multifarious and multi-faceted wine. Thrilling and kaleidoscopic. Pyrotechnic even. At the same time it has a 'come hither' seductiveness, and seamless elegance.  It has power and precision in equal measure. 97

Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2002

This is in a good place but it will probably continue to evolve and improve. It has creamy lemon notes initially, then minerals, brine and sea shells. It is finely poised, powerful...and quite youthful, still resolving. It has a stern acidic cut and backbone, as you would expect. It also has a touch of sweetness and a hint of vanilla oak too, which will probably meld in to the wine over the next few years, but becomes more pronounced as the evening proceeds.  94 now, probably higher in ten years from now.

Maume Charmes Chambertin 1997

Garnet colour with red fruits, animale, earthiness, sous bois, evolving beautifully, nicely grippy on the mid-palate. Complex, captivating. Unpretentious and old fashioned. red burgundy as it should be. 93

Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000

Fully resolved and very accomplished, with cherry fruit, roses and tar, full bodied with a touch of sweetness and heat but nevertheless still elegant and poised.  A delicious Barolo for current drinking. 92

Mascarello Monprivato Barolo 2004

It is young but it is still open for business and hasn't closed down. Truffles, roses and tar on a smooth, seamless finish. It's pure, understated and complex. A worthy addition to any cellar. 93

Top wines in Q2 2014

Top 60 or so Wines of Q2 2014

Scores make no claims for accuracy, consistency or fairness

63. Clusel Roche Côte-Rotie 2001...91
62. Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997...91
61. Chateau Latour 1973...91
60. Toolangi Chardonnay 2011...91
59. Jean Monnier Meursault La Barre 2010...91
58. Couvent Des Jacobins 2012...91
57.  Antinori Ornellaia 1990...91
56. Bindi Composition Chardonnay 2011...91
55. Cyril Henschke 2000...91
54. Chateau Rieussec 1989...91
53. Chateau Suduiraut 1989 (en magnum)...91
52. Jamet Côte Rotie 2006...91
51. Patrick Javillier Meursault Tillets 2010...91
50. Bindi Quartz Chardonnay 2011...91
49.Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2010 ...91
48. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie Cuvée Classique Ampodium 2005...91
47. Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1erCru Les Chenevottes 2011...91
46. Chateau Pape Clement 1990...91
45. Jasmin Côte Rotie 1980...91
44. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1994...91
43. Domaine Maroslavac-Leger Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres 2012...91
42. Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Des Murees 2010...91
41. Chateau Palmer 1970...91
. Trimbach Clos Saint-Hune 1993
40. Hermitage La Chapelle 1988 (en magnum)...91
39. Michel & Stefane Ogier Cote-Rotie 1997...91
38. Chave Hermitage Blanc 1997...91
37. Gilles Barges Cote-Rotie Cuvée Du Plessy 2001...91
36. Jean Lionnet Cornas Domaine De Rochepertuis 1998...91
35. Ceretto Barolo Bricco Roche, 2010...92
34. Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon 1994...92
33. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1990...92
32. Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrieres 2011...92
31. Jean Monnier Meursault Genevrieres 2010...92
30. Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tete du Clos 2012...92
29. Nada Fiorenzo Barbaresco Rombone 2005...92
28. PYCM Chassagne Les Chenevottes 2007...92
27.  Perret Condrieu Chery 2011...93
26. Chateau Climens 1988...93
25. Chateau Raymond-Lafon 1988...93
24. Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2011...93
23. Antinori Masetto 1994...93
22. Chateau Leoville-Barton 1989...93
21. Chateau Magdelaine 1988...93
20. Michel & Stefane Ogier Cote-Rotie 1999...93
19. Chateau Haut-Brion 1975...93
18. Chateau Montrose 1989...94
17. Roberto Voerzio Barbera Riserva Pozzo dell'Annunziata 2010...94
16. Castello Di Nieve Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 2007...94
15. Chateau Moulin St-Georges1998 (half)...94
14. Chateau Pape Clement Blanc 1996...94
13. Chateau Lynch-Bages 1989...95
12. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1996...95
11. Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2010...95
10. Chateau Grand-Puy Lacoste 1996...96
9. Jasmin Cote-Rotie 1985...96
8. Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1985...96
7. Roberto Voerzio Barolo Riserva Fossati Case Nere 2004...96
6. Ceretto, Barbaresco Bernadot, 2000...96
5. Ceretto Barolo Cannubi, San Lorenzo, 2004...6
4. Ceretto Barolo Prapo 1990...96
3. Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra 2010...97
2. Penfolds Bin 90A...97
1. Coche-Dury Meursault 2007...97

Recent wines

Tasting notes

Chateau Montrose 1989

Pretty close to full maturity with more leathery notes than a few years ago. On the palate there is a lot going on: it has notes of iron, iodine and other minerals, overlaid with soy, spices and dark chocolate. It has rasping metallic edge, and perhaps lacks the smoothness and the mid-palate density of some really great wines. Still it is a marvellous complex wine, which should drink well for another ten years. Superb though it is, it has now been overtaken by Cos D'Estournel 1989, which has that extra dimension of class. 93

Penfolds Bin 90 A

A wine based primarily on Coonawarra Cabernet, with some Barossa Shiraz thrown in the mix. Mixing Cabernet and Syrah/Shiraz rarely works, but it does here, with the Cabernet fruit dominating. This wine is fully mature, and has wonderful depth and purity of fruit. It is rich, tarry and ethereal with wave after wave of cool fruit with mint and eucalyptus overlaid with mushrooms and truffles. It is an absolutely thrilling wine at its apogee. 96

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Classy cool berry fruit coats the palate, with menthol, vanilla and woodsy notes, but this is nicely resolved with medium acidity and reasonable grip. It is a little high in alcohol (14%) and this shows on the finish, and it lacks the exquisite balance and class of Pichon Lalande 1996 tasted alongside, but it is a lovely wine. 91

Pichon Lalande 1996

Cool minerals and cherry notes, linear and precise but at the same time dense and powerful on the mid palate, lead pencil, earthiness, cedar and minerals, still quite tannic and youthful. Still on the upslope. 94

Ornellaia 1990

Soft, round, plush, elegant and quite classy. This is fully resolved, and is understated but quite delicious. It just lacks a bit of excitement and the complexity you would find in a first or second growth Medoc in the same vintage. 91

Clusel Roch Cote-Rotie 2001

Precise and linear with a firm acidic backbone. Some secondary woodsy notes are starting to appear, but It needs food and a bit more time to show at its best. It has all the requisite ingredients. 91

Eric Texier Hermitage 2007

Surprisingly forward and fruity, with lashings of vanilla oak, which rather undermines the overall enjoyment. This could use some more time for the oak to integrate, but the oak seems to be over done. 87

Jean Monnier, Meursault Genevrieres 2010

Thick, lush, juicy, full-bodied and powerful, with a dense mid-palate and a fair bit of oak. Still it is a delicious wine. Could easily pass for a Batard Montrachet. 92

Domaine Serge Lalou, Sancerre Cuvée Silex 2012

Laser-like focus, crisp acidity and Sauvignon fruit, gooseberries and flinty mineral notes. It is a good wine but becomes tiring after a while. 88

Chateau Moulin St-Georges 1998

Drunk from half bottle this is perfectly resolved and delicious St-Emilion, with captivating truffle, sous bois and woodsy notes. 93

Bindi Composition Chardonnay 2011

Tight, restrained, powerful, with a dense mid palate and a long lush finish. The oak and alcohol are carefully kept in check. Australia's finest Chardonnay? I wouldn't argue with that. All it needs is some personality. 92.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006

Shy nose with some spicey notes. On the palate it is smooth and discreet. It is understated, and frankly underwhelming. While pleasant to drink, silky and smooth it has no oomph, and little excitement. 88

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2011

A beautifully crafted wine. Quite shy on the nose but it has a superb palate, which is as smooth as velvet, but grippy and discreetly powerful at the same time. It finishes long and luxuriously. Much better than the 2006. 92

Segla 2008

Superb for a second wine in an under-rated vintage. This has quite a reticent nose, but it glides over the palate like a cashmere scarf, and really is a class act. 90

Segla 2009

Quite full bodied and low in acidity. It is already drinking very well and is a superficially attractive wine. But at the end of the day it is lacking in stuffing and personality. The 2008 is a better wine. 87

Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996

This bottle was really singing and firing in all cylinders. Medium rather than full bodied it is dominated by gorgeous, cool Cabernet fruit, a superb mouth feel, exquisite balance and a deliciously lingering finish. 96

Patrick Javiller Meursault Les Tillets 2010

Luscious, beautiful and poised. 92

Patrick Javiller Meursault Les Tillets 2011

A light colour and a light wine for a Meursault. Refreshing, crisp and vibrant, but not quite up to this producer's impeccably high standards. Well short of the 2010. 88

Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2011

Vibrant, citrus fruits, excellent. 91

Coche Dury Meursault

Racy citrus and white peach notes, very racy and poised, with wonderful mouthfeel, presence and finish. Just extraordinary, especially for a village wine. 97

Sassicaia 1995

Fully mature, soft and cuddly with mature notes of shoe polish and leather on entry overlaid with more complex and alluring truffle, mushroom and woodsy notes. This is the wines strong suit. On the palate it is pleasant enough but showing early signs of drying out. This needs to be drunk up, but is still a very pleasant glass of claret substitute. 89

Top wines in Q1 2014

My top wines in Q1 2014

40. Le Petit Cheval 1999

39. Chateau Lafon Rochet 1996

38. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1978
37. Clusel Roche Condrieu Verchery 2010

36. Penfolds Grange 1991

35.  Philipponnat Champagne Grand Blanc  Brut 1988

34.  Penfolds Grange 1996

33. Tenuta  San Guido  Sassicaia 1997

32.  Tenuta  Dell'Ornellaia Ornellaia 1990

31. Pira Barolo Vigna Marenca 2003

30. Roagna Barbaresco Paje 2003

29. Chateau Belair, St-Emilion, 2004

28. Humbert Gevret Chambertin Poissonets 1999

27.  Mugneret Gibourg Vosne Romanee 2002

26., Penfolds Bin 707 1997

25. Chateau Palmer 1986

24. Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino 1997

23. Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia 1986

22. Marchese  Di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga 2001

21. Chateau Haut-Bailly 1998

20. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2007

19. Jean-Louis Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011

18. Chateau Leoville-Barton 2002

17. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996

16.Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet Les Murees 2010

15.  Noel Verset Cornas 1995

14. Antinori Solaia 1988

13.  Ceritas Chardonnay Porter Bass 2009

12. Chateau Rieussec 2001 

11. Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Masetto 1994

10. Chave Hermitage 1989

9. Penfolds Grange 1983

8. Penfolds Grange 1975

7.  Penfolds Grange 1986

6. Penfolds Grange 1992

5.  Grange Hermitage 1982

4.  Chateau  Cos D'Estournel 1989

3.  Noel Verset Cornas 1990

2.  Jamet Cote-Rotie 2010

1. Penfolds Grange 1985

Penfolds Grange dinner at the Ledbury

A magnificent dinner at the Ledbury restaurant in Notting Hill, last Wednesday the 22nd January. Currently a Michelin two star, on this showing it won't be long before it gets its third star.

To start: 

Kangaroo Scotch Egg, 
Cheese and Vegemite on Toast

Grilled Scottish Langoustine 
with Caramelised Sourdough and Blood Orange


1988 Philipponnat, Grand Blanc, Brut 
(Disgorged 2007) 

Pale, youthful looking, fresh, lively, lifted vibrant; very refined

We raised our glasses in memory of Chris Longstaff. 



First course:

Roast Breast of Quail with Chestnut Cream, 
Chanterelles and Thyme


1975 Penfolds Grange 

Remarkably youthful opaque colour, this started out quite slowly despite having been double decanted four hours earlier, it unfurled and improved over the evening and really began to sing. A magnificent bottle! Still on the young side with subtle animal (?) and minty notes, this is a somewhat restrained rendition of Penfolds Grange. It is medium-full bodied and has years left. Drink now-2040. 

1982 Penfolds Grange 

A more expressive, sweeter attack, even with some porty notes. On the palate it was ripe, rich and opulent with dark chocolate notes. A much more exuberant style of Grange. Absolutely exquisite. Drink now-2045.

1983 Penfolds Grange

More pronounced menthol and eucalyptus notes, from a very hot vintage this showed extremely well, but did not quite have the exquisite refinement and balance of its flight mates, but is still absolutely splendid. Drink now-2050. 


Second course:

Loin of Hare with Rhubarb, Black Pepper and Baked Carrots


1985 Penfolds Grange

This is a cool, silky, svelte, perfectly judged Grange. It has the power and will last for decades, but the emphasis here is on finesse and refinement. It has a zenlike finish. Probably my wine of the night, or equal with the 1982. Drink now-2050. 

1986 Penfolds Grange 

The 1986 is a more powerful, brutal and expressive wine than the 1985. It has trademark Barossa bush-viney notes with added weedy, piped tobacco. On the palate is full-bodied, dense, brooding and powerful. While this can be drunk with enormous pleasure now this wine is still evolving and has decades left. Drink now-2060. 

1988 Penfolds Grange 

The only wine which was possibly faulty, sensitive noses picked up some cork taint, but the wine held together extremely well all night. It lacked the smoothness and finesse of the 1985 and the power of the 1986, but on its own is still an impressive wine. Drink now-2050. 



Third course:

Fillet of Belted Galloway Beef with Root Vegetables, 
Black Truffle and Pine


1991 Penfolds Grange 

This had been open for 15 hours, but it was still quite brooding and backward. This has all the elements to evolve into a great wine, but I found it to be slightly awkward and lacking in charm, especially next to the 1992. Drink 2020-2070.

1992 Penfolds Grange

Clearly a young wine, which has only just entered its drinking window, but it is absolutely fabulous. I wish I owned this rather than the 1991. Drink now-2070. 

1996 Penfolds Grange

The youngest, biggest and most powerful wine on the slate last night. A colossus. A wine for your grandchildren. I was more in awe of this wine than in love with it. This wine could easily last 100 years and will not be fully ready for another 15. It is also synonymous with Penfolds Grange becoming bigger, more powerful, more monolithic over time as other monstrosities compete to take its mantle. Grange is still peerless in Australian wine. Drink 2030-2100. 


Dessert: 

Pear Cooked in Brown Butter with Walnut, 
Beremeal and Caramelised Goat’s Milk


2001 Château Rieussec, Fargues, Bordeaux

From a half bottle. Fresh, lifted, rich and concentrated and poised with a cool, languid finish. 



What are the conclusions? Penfolds Grange is every bit as great as its reputation suggests. The wines have a timeless quality about them, and will last for decades. The older the better. No other Australian wine comes close. 

Grange is simply one of the greatest wines in the world. It is as good as Chateau Latour, or the Guigal La-La's. 

The table voted the 1982, 1985 as wines of their flights with the 1992 and 1996 sharing honours in the last flight.

The table voted the 1975 and 1982 as the best wines of the night.


I bracketed the wines in to three layers, with the pecking order in each layer:

First tier: 1985, 1982, 1975 – 97/98 points?
Second tier: 1992, 1983, 1986 – 95 points?
Third tier: 1991, 1996, 1988 – 92/93 points?

A wine for New Year's Eve

A delightful and fully resolved bottle of Mouton with the accent on elegance rather than raw power. The nose is also less exuberant than other vintages of Mouton with red berries, woodsy notes and hints of cedar, mint and tobacco. On the palate it is medium bodied, suave, elegant and complex, and the tannins are fully resolved. The mid-palate is deceptively rich and powerful but the emphasis is much more on elegance. This wine has developed some musty church pew, and old leather armchair notes, which suggests to me that it is approaching the end of its drinking window. Like many other 1983 clarets this will not make old bones. But it is wonderful now, and a rare opportunity to drink a fully resolved Mouton.

The 2013 top 100

This is the list of my top 100 wines in 2013. It was a brilliant year for wine drinking. One of the best ever. The top half a dozen wines were consumed in and around my 50th birthday, and will always remain etched in my memory. 

By country 89% are French, 7% are Italian, 2% Australian and one each Spain and Portugal.  

Of the total 51% are from Bordeaux (57% of the French wine), 20% from Burgundy (22%), 16% from the Rhone (18%) and 2% from other regions (one Alsace and one Champagne).

Within Bordeaux 31% of the total (61% of Bordeaux) are from the left bank excluding Pessac/Graves, 16% (31%) from the right bank, three from Sauternes/Barsac and one from Graves/Pessac.  On the left bank 13% of the total (42% of the left bank) are from Pauillac and 6% (19%) from St-Julien and 7% (23%) from the Margaux commune. The most popular estates are Latour (six wines), Chateau Margaux (six), Chateau Montrose (four) and Chateau Talbot (four). On the right bank there are 12 wines from Pomerol and four from St-Emilion. Within Pomerol there are four wines from La Fleur Petrus, three from Certan De May and two each from La Conseillante and Lafleur.  Within Sauternes Barsac two of the three wines are Chateau d’Yquem.

Within Burgundy there are eight Cotes De Nuits reds, and ten Cotes De Beaune whites, with one Cote De Beaune red and one Chablis. Within the Rhone half the wines, eight in total, are Cote Rotie. There are two whites and only one Southern Rhone. In Italy all the wine are Piedmont and either Barolo or Barbaresco.

100. Chateau Montrose 1986

99. Chateau Lafleur Petrus 1995

98. Chateau Certan De May 2001

97. Feyles Barbaresco Riserva 1989
96. Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 2006

95. Raul Perez Ultreia La Claudina 2010

94. Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1995

93. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011

92. Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos De Beze 2008

91. Chateau Duhart Milon 1996

90. Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

89. Patrick Javiller Meursault Tillets 2009

88. Chateau Beaucastel 1994

87. Ascheri Barolo Vigna Dei Pola 1995

86. M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal 1996

85. Louis Latour Romanee Saint Vivant Les Quatre Journaux 2002

84. Louis Latour Criots-Batard Montrachet 2000

83. Chateau Angelus 1989

82. Vincent Bouzereau Meursault Narvaux 2010

81. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981

80. Chateau Talbot 1986

79. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1989

78. Chateau Palmer 1996

77. Michel Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers 1995

76. Chateau Beausejour Becot 1996

75. Chateau Talbot 1982

74. Chateau Haut-Bailly 1998

73. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 2011

72. Chateau Chasse Spleen 1982

71. Chateau Batailley 1989

70. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1970

69. Chateau Latour 1981

68. Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet En Remilly 2011

67. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet, 1erCru, Grandes Ruchottes, 2007

66. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2007

65. Chateau Talbot 2001

64. Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 2004

63. Chateau La Dominique 1996

62. Sorrel Hermitage Blanc Les Recoules 2001

61. Trimbach Cuvée Frederic Emile Riesling 2001

60. Chateau Talbot 1996

59. Chateau Latour 1997

58. Noel Verset Cornas 1998

57. Pavillon Blanc Du Chateau Margaux 2003

56. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudroittes 1992

55. Chateau Grillet 2005

54. Robert Arnoux Clos De Vougeot 2002

53. Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne 1992

52. Chateau Certan De May 1990

51. Chave Hermitage 1988

50. Mount Mary Quintet 1999

49. Guigal Cote-Rotie Chateau D’Ampuis 1997

48. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1970

47. Noel Verset Cornas 1990

46. Philipponnat Clos De Goisses 2002

45. Chateau Margaux 2009

44. Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2007

43. La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de La Bousse d'Or 1996

42. Guigal Cote Rotie 1976

41. Jamet Cote-Rotie 1997

40. Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet 2008

39. Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 2004

38. Chateau Montrose 2005

37. Chateau La Conseillante 1989

36. Roberto Vierzio Barolo La Serra 1995

35. Gilles Barge Cote Rotie Cuvee Du Plessis 1991

34. Cuilleron, Gaillardia, Villard Cote-Rotie Les Essartailles 1999

33. Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga 2001/07

32. Chateau Latour 1983

31. Chateau Montrose 2003

30. Chateau La Conseillante 1990

29. Chateau Latour 1985

28. Chateau La Fleur Petrus 2012

27. Chateau Montrose 2010

26. Chateau d'Yquem 1986

25. Chateau Climens 1988

24. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990

23. Grahams Port 1963

22. Chateau Certan De May 1998

21. Chateau Figeac 1990

20. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1983

19. Chateau La Fleur Petrus 1998

18. Camille-Giroud Charmes Chambertin 2006

17. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984

16. Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999

15. Aldo Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia 1974

14. Chateau Lafleur 2001

13. Chateau Margaux 2001

12. Chateau Petrus 1990

11. Chateau Latour 1970

10. Chateau Lafleur 1995

9. Chateau Lafleur-Petrus 1971

8. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 

7. Chateau Margaux 1959

6. Chateau Margaux 1996

5. Ramonet Montrachet 1988

4. Chateau Latour 1982

3. Chateau Margaux 2010

2. Chateau D’Yquem 2001

1. Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Romanee Conti 1980