Recent wines

Tasting notes

Chateau Montrose 1989

Pretty close to full maturity with more leathery notes than a few years ago. On the palate there is a lot going on: it has notes of iron, iodine and other minerals, overlaid with soy, spices and dark chocolate. It has rasping metallic edge, and perhaps lacks the smoothness and the mid-palate density of some really great wines. Still it is a marvellous complex wine, which should drink well for another ten years. Superb though it is, it has now been overtaken by Cos D'Estournel 1989, which has that extra dimension of class. 93

Penfolds Bin 90 A

A wine based primarily on Coonawarra Cabernet, with some Barossa Shiraz thrown in the mix. Mixing Cabernet and Syrah/Shiraz rarely works, but it does here, with the Cabernet fruit dominating. This wine is fully mature, and has wonderful depth and purity of fruit. It is rich, tarry and ethereal with wave after wave of cool fruit with mint and eucalyptus overlaid with mushrooms and truffles. It is an absolutely thrilling wine at its apogee. 96

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Classy cool berry fruit coats the palate, with menthol, vanilla and woodsy notes, but this is nicely resolved with medium acidity and reasonable grip. It is a little high in alcohol (14%) and this shows on the finish, and it lacks the exquisite balance and class of Pichon Lalande 1996 tasted alongside, but it is a lovely wine. 91

Pichon Lalande 1996

Cool minerals and cherry notes, linear and precise but at the same time dense and powerful on the mid palate, lead pencil, earthiness, cedar and minerals, still quite tannic and youthful. Still on the upslope. 94

Ornellaia 1990

Soft, round, plush, elegant and quite classy. This is fully resolved, and is understated but quite delicious. It just lacks a bit of excitement and the complexity you would find in a first or second growth Medoc in the same vintage. 91

Clusel Roch Cote-Rotie 2001

Precise and linear with a firm acidic backbone. Some secondary woodsy notes are starting to appear, but It needs food and a bit more time to show at its best. It has all the requisite ingredients. 91

Eric Texier Hermitage 2007

Surprisingly forward and fruity, with lashings of vanilla oak, which rather undermines the overall enjoyment. This could use some more time for the oak to integrate, but the oak seems to be over done. 87

Jean Monnier, Meursault Genevrieres 2010

Thick, lush, juicy, full-bodied and powerful, with a dense mid-palate and a fair bit of oak. Still it is a delicious wine. Could easily pass for a Batard Montrachet. 92

Domaine Serge Lalou, Sancerre Cuvée Silex 2012

Laser-like focus, crisp acidity and Sauvignon fruit, gooseberries and flinty mineral notes. It is a good wine but becomes tiring after a while. 88

Chateau Moulin St-Georges 1998

Drunk from half bottle this is perfectly resolved and delicious St-Emilion, with captivating truffle, sous bois and woodsy notes. 93

Bindi Composition Chardonnay 2011

Tight, restrained, powerful, with a dense mid palate and a long lush finish. The oak and alcohol are carefully kept in check. Australia's finest Chardonnay? I wouldn't argue with that. All it needs is some personality. 92.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006

Shy nose with some spicey notes. On the palate it is smooth and discreet. It is understated, and frankly underwhelming. While pleasant to drink, silky and smooth it has no oomph, and little excitement. 88

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2011

A beautifully crafted wine. Quite shy on the nose but it has a superb palate, which is as smooth as velvet, but grippy and discreetly powerful at the same time. It finishes long and luxuriously. Much better than the 2006. 92

Segla 2008

Superb for a second wine in an under-rated vintage. This has quite a reticent nose, but it glides over the palate like a cashmere scarf, and really is a class act. 90

Segla 2009

Quite full bodied and low in acidity. It is already drinking very well and is a superficially attractive wine. But at the end of the day it is lacking in stuffing and personality. The 2008 is a better wine. 87

Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996

This bottle was really singing and firing in all cylinders. Medium rather than full bodied it is dominated by gorgeous, cool Cabernet fruit, a superb mouth feel, exquisite balance and a deliciously lingering finish. 96

Patrick Javiller Meursault Les Tillets 2010

Luscious, beautiful and poised. 92

Patrick Javiller Meursault Les Tillets 2011

A light colour and a light wine for a Meursault. Refreshing, crisp and vibrant, but not quite up to this producer's impeccably high standards. Well short of the 2010. 88

Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2011

Vibrant, citrus fruits, excellent. 91

Coche Dury Meursault

Racy citrus and white peach notes, very racy and poised, with wonderful mouthfeel, presence and finish. Just extraordinary, especially for a village wine. 97

Sassicaia 1995

Fully mature, soft and cuddly with mature notes of shoe polish and leather on entry overlaid with more complex and alluring truffle, mushroom and woodsy notes. This is the wines strong suit. On the palate it is pleasant enough but showing early signs of drying out. This needs to be drunk up, but is still a very pleasant glass of claret substitute. 89