All of these wines were double decanted and drank side by side at Nigel Platts Martin’s Glasshouse restaurant in Kew Gardens, West London. All three wines were in perfect condition.
1983
Translucent maroon; intriguing and subtle notes of cedar, leather, sweet berries, other dark fruits, herbs, tea, forest floor, hints of pencil lead; on the palate very classy and refined; medium bodied, and very smooth; perfectly judged; quite soft because the tannins are fully integrated, but it is not lacking for grip or persistence; it has exquisite poise; it is elegant, classy, fresh, persistent with a satisfying finish. Somewhat old school, it is a wine which whispers rather than shouts out its class. This wine is in a perfect place right now. It should continue to drink well for another 10+ year. I would give it 95 points on the night.
1985
This had a somewhat brighter ruby colour and less bricking than the ’83. More expressive nose with lashings of pencil lead, attenuated cedar, berries, cassis, meat and tobacco notes. The tannins are not quite fully integrated and it has a grippier, livelier, mouth feel. It is more exuberant and has a thrilling, mouth filling palate. An enthralling wine, which just gets better with every glass, and with every bottle opened (this is the third in a year). It is just about entering its drinking window, and will probably get even better. 96 points
1982
It had a deeper, darker more marauding maroon nose than the 1983. On pouring the bouquet jumped out of the glass. Complex notes of cedar, cassis, perfectly ripe berries and dark fruits, hints of pencil lead in the background, with truffle, spice box, cigar wrapper and meaty notes overlaid; it is utterly intoxicating. The tannins are almost fully resolved and integrated, and the palate is so smooth, silky and velvety; so expansive and mouth filing. There are absolutely no hard edges to this. It has layers and layers of nuance and complexity, and much more power, presence and persistence on the mid-palate than the other two wines. It really is a step up and perfect in every way. The best example of this iconic wine I have ever tried. My guess is that it is 5-6 years into a 20-30 year drinking window. Easily deserves a triple digit score.
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