On 17th November as part of the Decanter Master Class series we tasted eight vintages of Chateau Montrose and two of the second wine, La Dame de Montrose. The tasting was tutored by Herve Berland, who moved across to Montrose last year after 35 years at Mouton Rothschild.
He was appointed after the retirement of Jean Delmas, formerly of Chateau Haut-Brion. Delmas still works as a consultant for Montrose, which therefore effectively has two former first growth winemakers overseeing the winemaking. However all of the wines we tasted effectively pre-dated Berland.
Of the total production about 50-55% goes into the Grand Vin and 20-25% into La Dame. The GV is typically about 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. La Dame is typically predominantly merlot, but the 2003, which we tried, was predominantly cabernet because the thinner-skinned merlot had a tough time in the torrid heat of 2003.
La Dame de Montrose 2009
This is 82% merlot. It is suave, harmonious with berry fruit and still young. 16/20
La Dame de Montrose 2003
Atypically 65% cabernet sauvignon. Spicey, raspberry, with cigar box notes. Very ripe, but quite balanced and little sign of heat damage. Easier to drink than the 2009 Dame. 16
Chateau Montrose 2010
This is 53% cabernet, 37% merlot, 9% cabernet franc. This is astonishingly good wine. It is rich, dense structured and powerful, but elegant, refined, fresh and uplifting. It has an equilibrium that the 09 can only dream about and is close to perfection. 19
Chateau Montrose 2009
Rounder, fuller, more opulent than the 2010; lower in acidity and oakier, but dense, ripe and powerful across the middle. It just lacks the precision and finesse of the 2010 in my opinion. More evidence in my book that 2010 is the better vintage. But others don’t see it that way. Interestingly the group marginally preferred this to the 2010. Berland, whilst acknowledging it is difficult to choose between the nine and the ten, rates this as the equal greatest Montrose ever, with the 1990. Still, I only gave it 18/20.
Chateau Montrose 2005
Like the 2009 roughly 65% CS, 30% merlot. More noticeable berry aromas. This is superb wine. It is not as opulent as the 2009 but is extremely well balanced and very long, rich and powerful. It still needs a long time, but is starting to show a glimpse of its potential. 18.5
Chateau Montrose 2003
Chateau Montrose is as well equipped as any other classed growth to deal with extreme heat, given the clay in the soil, which holds water and the proximity of the river. This is why, quite possibly Montrose is the wine of the vintage in 2003. It is more evolved than the 2005, with classic left bank notes of berries and cedar. It is still tannic but already gives a lot of pleasure. It is full bodied, very rich and concentrated without being unbalanced. It is mouthfilling, setting all the senses alight. It is certainly the best 2003 I have tasted. 18.5
Chateau Montrose 2000
The 2000 is a step down from the 2003 and 2005 but still a very good wine. It lacks the fine texture of the 03 and 05, and is still backward like the 05; the 03 is much easier to drink and much more enjoyable right now. The 2000 is a sturdy, even opulent wine with lead and iron notes and huge tannins. It should last more many decades, and is best left alone for at least another decade. 17.5
Chateau Montrose 1998
This has aged well, and still has an abundance of tannin. It does not have an abundance of fruit and ripeness, however, and this is noticeable after the previous wines. This is quite tough to drink on its own, and what it needs is food: something like a beef on the bone, to which it would undoubtedly be a fine accompaniment. 16
Chateau Montrose 1986
This wine is finally coming round, after being stubbornly tannic and unbroachable for nearly a quarter of a century. The nose is secondary, with interesting notes of rotting garbage, and ashtray. On the palate it is still a brute; big, brawny and chewy, with a lot of density and power, a characteristic of the vintage. 17
Chateau Montrose 1976.
This is the second time I have tried this wine in less than a week. In the context of the vintage it is a triumph. It is holding together very well, and provides a lot of pleasure, with no sign that it is going into decline. However it is neither opulent nor long on the finish. 16
This was an interesting selection of wines from the Montrose stable, confirming its status as a super second in my book. But neither is it quite first growth quality in my opinion. These wines lack a certain delicacy and have a certain iron-fisted sternness, which does not always come in a velvet glove. And it only really hits you when you leave the room.
I would commend these Decanter Master classes even though the pours were miserly today and the woman from Decanter can be irritating...she was even more sycophantic than usual with Berland and didn’t know when to shut up.
