Wednesday, 30 May 2018

Top 100 wines of all time

This is a list of  my top 100 wines of all time. 

Some of these wines I have tried more than once, the number of times in brackets. Some wines I have more of, though this is not noted. 

Some immense wines like Lafite 1929, Chateau Margaux 1959, DRC Richebourg 1978, Chave Cuvée Cathelin 1991 and Yquem 2001 have been excluded because they were only samples. 

Also, I may have inadvertently missed one or two wines.

Where possible I have pinned down the date and location, usually by postcode. Where N1 or N5 this usually means at home. The date indicated where the wine has been tried more than once was, from memory, the most impressive showing. 

It was been a wonderful journey through the world of fine wine. I am most privileged. 



  1. Romanee Conti 1980 - 25/5/2013, London, W1 (1) 
  1. D’Yquem 1937 - September 1998, Bad Homburg (1)
  1. Romanee Conti 1985 - 31/12/1999, London N5 (1)
  1. Petrus 1964 - 31/8/1997,  Lower Slaughter (1) 
  1. La Tache 1985 - 16/4/2010, London N1 (1)
  1. Penfolds Grange Hermitage 1976 - 25/5/2018, London N1 (2)
  1. Petrus 1971 - 1996, London N1 (1)
  1. Latour 1982 - 23/5/2013, Kew (5)
  1. Hermitage La Chapelle 1978 - 2008, Brighton (1)
  1. DRC Richebourg 1990 - 14/4/2018, London W1 (1)
  1. Lafite 1995 - 13/6/2011, Chappaqua (2)
  1. Ramonet Montrachet 1982 - 1998, London N5 (1)
  1. Cappellano Barolo 1961 - August 2011, Manhattan (1)
  1. Lafite 1955 - September 1998, Bad Homburg (1)
  1. Coche Dury Meursault Perrieres 1986 - 9/6/2003, London N1 (1)
  1. Lafite 1989 - October 2009, Manhattan (6)
  1. Lafleur 2015 - 28/2/2018, London W1 (1)
  1. Chateau Margaux 2010 - 18/5/2013, London NW1 (2)
  1. Mouton 2009 - 23/10/2016, London SW1 (1)
  1. Cheval Blanc 1985 - 27/12/2017, London E14 (6)
  1. La Tache 1996 - 2/5/2017, London N1 (3)
  1. D'Yquem 1976 - 23/12/2009, London W11 (4)
  1. Mouton 1982 - 17/10/2016, London SW10 (6)
  1. Chave Hermitage 1990 - June 2012, Vienne (3)
  1. Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanee Clos Parantoux 1996 - 2009, Manhattan (1)
  1. Rousseau Chambertin 1996 - 2009, Manhattan (2)
  1. Le Pin 1990 - 2002, London N5 (2)
  1. Petrus 1978 - 23/12/2009, London W11 (3)
  1. Ponsot Clos De La Roche, Vieille Vignes 1985 - 1992, Gevrey Chambertin (1) 
  1. Leroy Grands-Echezeaux 1964 - 2008, Manhattan (1)
  1. Chateau Margaux 1996 - April 2001, London W1 (4)
  1. Cheval Blanc 1982 - 12/4/2012, London W1 (6)
  1. Chateau Margaux 1986 - February 2012, London EC4 (4)
  1. Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino 1990 - October 2008, Manhattan (5)
  1. Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 1971 - 2007, Stamford, CT (1)
  1. Rousseau Chambertin Clos De Beze 1995 - 27/4/2011, London W11 (2)
  1. Penfolds Grange 1998 - 2/5/2017, London N1 (2) 
  1. Lafite 1985 - 25/5/2012, London EC3 (4)
  1. Haut-Brion 1982 - 12/4/2012, London W1 (5)
  1. Ramonet Montrachet 1983 - 31/12/1999, London N5 (1)
  1. Haut-Brion 1989 - 9/10/2000, London NW1 (4)
  1. Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva 1996 - October 2014, London W4 (2)
  1. Jasmin Côte Rotie 1990, - 22/3/2012, London W1 (2)
  1. Lafite 1986 - 1/3/2018, London W4 (4)
  1. Penfolds Bin 90A - May 2014, London E3 (1)
  1. Lafite 1978 - 1/3/2018, London W4 (3)
  1. Cheval Blanc 1975 - 17/5/2015, Bordeaux (1)
  1. Ausone 1982 - 17/10/2016, London SW10 (4) 
  1. Ramonet Montrachet 1988 - 25/5/2013, London W1 (1)
  1. Lafite 1998 - 26/3/2016, Bordeaux (4)
  1. Noel Verset Cornas 1990 - January 2014, London EC1 (7)
  1. Petrus 1990 - July 2013, London E3 (3)
  1. Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet 1992 - December 2009, London W11 (12)
  1. Guigal Cote-Rotie La Mouline 1985 - April 1996, London N5 (1)
  1. Mouton 1985 - 31/12/2012, London E3 (2)
  1. La Fleur Petrus 1971 - 25/1/2013, London W1 (1) 
  1. Lafite 1988 - 1/3/2018, London W4 (2)
  1. Palmer 1983 - 12/11/2015, London W4 (4)
  1. Chateau Margaux 1983 - December 2006, Manhattan (4)
  1. Mouton 1986 - 2008, Manhattan (6)
  1. Latour 1990 - March 2011, San Francisco (1) 
  1. Laville Haut-Brion 2000 - 24/4/2018, Bordeaux (1) 
  1. Lafite 1983 - 1/3/2018, London W4 (1)
  1. Figeac 1982 - 26/11/2017, London SW1 (6)
  1. La Conseillante 2016 - 5/7/2017, London SW1 (1)
  1. Leoville Lascases 2016 - 5/7/2017, London SW1 (1)
  1. Lynch Bages 1982 - 8/10/2017, London N1 (5)
  1. DRC Richebourg 2004 - 8/10/2017, London N1 (1)
  1. D'Yquem 1971 - 20/10/2016, London W4 (1)
  1. Penfolds Grange 1981 - 1990, London N1 (6)
  1. Pichon Baron 2010 - 22/5/2015, Pauillac (3)
  1. Leoville Lascases 2010 - November 2014, London EC2 (2)
  1. Montrose 2010 - November 2013, London NW1 (3)
  1. Jamet Cote Rotie 2010 - n/a (1) 
  1. La Conseillante 1982 - November 2011, London EC3 (11)
  1. JF Mugnier Musigny 2005 - January 2017, Meursault (1)
  1. Rousseau Clos Saint Jacques 1989 - 27/4/2011, London W11 (1)
  1. La Conseillante 1990 - April 2016, London SW1 (11)
  1. Haut-Bailly 2009 - April 2015, London SW3 (1)
  1. Noel Verset Cornas 1991 - March 2012, London W1 (3)
  1. Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1985 - Q3 2014, London W1 (1)
  1. La Mission Haut-Brion 1982 - 17/10/2016, London SW10 (1)
  1. Smith Haut-Lafitte 2009 - 21/5/2015, Pessac (1)
  1. Leoville Lascases 1985 - 9/7/2015, London W4 (2)
  1. Penfolds Grange 1985 - January 2014, London W11 (1)
  1. Chateau Margaux 1990 - December 2006, Manhattan (3)
  1. Noel Verset Cornas 1998 - September 2015, London SW6 (6)
  1. Penfolds Grange 1982 - January 2014, London W11 (4)
  1. Latour 1970 - 1997, London W1 (2) 
  1. Ausone 1971 - 2012, London SW3 (1)
  1. Chateau Margaux 1961 - May 2016, London SW17 (1)
  1. DRC Richebourg 2000 - 23/7/2009, London W11 (1)
  1. Rousseau Clos Saint Jacques 1991 - December 2006, London EC1 (12)
  1. Henri Bonneau Reserve Des Celestines 1995 - 30/10/2012, London W1 (1)
  1. Chateau Rayas 1995 - 30/10/2012, London W1 (1)
  1. Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline 1982 - n/a (1)
  1. Soldera Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 2000 - Q4 2012, n/a (1)
  1. Lafleur 1995 - 25/1/2013 London W1 (1)
  1. Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2013 - November 2017, La Morra (1)
  1. Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot 1990 - July 2017, London N1 (1)

Of the 100 wines 89 are French, six are Australian and five Italian. 

Of the Australian wines five are Penfolds Grange. Of the Italian wines four are from Piedmont and one from Tuscany.

Of the French wines 56 are from Bordeaux, 22 are from burgundy and 11 are from the Northern Rhone.

Within Bordeaux 52 are clarets and three sweet wines, all Yquem, and one dry white. 

Chateau Lafite is the most highly represented estate in the top 100 with nine entries. Burgundy entries are dominated by Domaine De La Romanee Conti with seven entries, four of which are in the top ten. 

These two in my option are the greatest wine producing estates in the world. 

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild - 9 entries (1955, 1978, 1983, 1985, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1995, 1998)

Domaine De La Romanee Conti - 7 entries (Romanee Conti 80, 85; La Tache 85, 96; Richebourg 1990, 2000, 2004)
Chateau Margaux - 6 entries (1961, 1983, 1986, 1990, 1996, 2010)
Penfolds - 6 entries (Grange: 1976, 1981, 1982, 1985, 1998; Bin 90A)
Chateau Petrus - four entries (1964, 1971, 1978, 1990)
Chateau Mouton-Rothschild - four entries (1982, 1985, 1986, 2009)
Armand Rousseau - four entries (Chambertin 1996; Clos De Beze 1995, CSJ 1989 and 1991)
Chateau d'Yquem - three entries (1937, 1971, 1976)
Chateau Latour - three entries (1970, 1982, 1990)
Cheval Blanc - three entries (1975, 1982, 1985)
La Conseillante - three entries (1982, 1990, 2016)
Leoville-Lascases - three entries (1985, 2010, 2016)
Noel Verset - three entries (1990, 1991, 1998)










Sunday, 31 December 2017

2017 top 100 wines

RANKWINECOMMENT
100Ch. Lafite Rothschld 2001Come back in 10-20 years when it will be top ten
99Ch. Latour 1996Ditto
98Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque 1987On song as good as it will get
97Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion 2004Promising but come back in 5-10 years
96Ch. Haut-Brion 1997Splendid now, unlikely to improve
95Ch. La Lagune 1989/90Evenly matched examples of mature La Lagune
94Ch. Cantenac Brown 1966/96Opposite ends of the age spectrum, both impressive
93Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou 1986Honest, it could have been great; merely excellent
92Ch. Beychevelle 1989Benchmark for this estate
91Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf Du Pape Cuvee Marier Beurrier 1998Unfairly smote by Grange 1998 - a lovely wine though
90Ch. Grillet 1993Revelatory
88Ch. Cantermerle 1996A star in a great left bank vintage
87Domaine De Chevalier (Rouges) 1998Super Graves vintage and in a perfect place
86Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Morgeots 2014A baby with superb potential
85Domaine De La Bongran Thevenet Macon Clesse Cuvee Botrytis 2004A surprise package - super dessert wine
84Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2010Class and fab but  a bit of heat on the back
83Ch. Leoville Barton 1999Restraint and class shines in a so-so vintage
82Jasmin Cote Rotie 1999Great promise, give it 5-10 years
81Ch. Pichon Baron 2008A worthy foil to the nine and ten
80Domaine De Chevalier (Rouges) 1996Has now shed its tannic cloke and worth the wait
79Ch. Beychevelle 2000Still quite primary, a fine Beychevelle
78Rene Engel Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Brulees 1999Still brusque but thrilling drinking head
77Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clos De Mouchere 2010Exudes class
76Ch. La Conseillante 1959Timeless restrained elegance
75Bernard Boisson-Vadot Meursault "Les Chevaliers" 2012A great find but difficult to find…
74Grivot Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2002 Flawless package, smooth and ready
73Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin 2001Not quite ready but enormous potential
72Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1996Old fashioned burgundy with gusto
71Ch. Mouton Rothschild 1989Elegance, restraint and class
70Renato Ratti Barolo Conca 2010Fabulous modern barolo
69Ponsot Clos De La Roche Vieilles Vignes 1997Perfectly a point
68Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2000Diaphanous
67Pierre Morey Meursault Perrieres 1988Stunning aromatic complexity
66Ch. Cantermerle 1989Consistently punches above its weight
65Sorrel Hermitage (Blanc) Les Recoules 2009Lush, lux but serious
64Ch. Leoville Lascases 1996Surpriisngly laid back, classic, classy
63Ch. Cos D'Estournel 1988Perfectly resolved advert for the vintage
62Ch. Lafite-Rothschild 2007Atypically approachable, but proper Lafite
61Giacosa Barolo Castello Di Castliglione 1996 Juicy, earthy, intense
60Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999Super ripe full throttle barolo
59Pavillon Rouge 2004Easily passes for Chateau Margaux
58Ch. Pichon Baron 2009 Step up from cool vintages, but can't match the ten
57Domaine Chave St-Joseph 2005Sheer brilliance, fine future
56Daniel Rion Clos Vougeot 2011Lithe
55Penfolds Bin 707 1996Stunningly pure mature SA cab
54Ch. Margaux 2001More accessible than Lafite 01
53Vietti Barolo Villero 1990Beautiful after VA blew off
52Ch. Coutet 2014Simply brilliant, and drinking well now
51Ch. Mouton-Rothschild 1996Like the 1989 but with more mid-palate punch
50Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano 1996Distinctive and now ready
49Ch. Pontet Canet 2005Towering, one for the ages
48Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1990Timeless and seamless
47Ch. Lynch-Bages 1978A brilliant bottle from an under-rated vintage
46Ch. Vieux Chateau Certan 1998Rich with waves of pleasure, best yet to come
45Ch. Pape Clement Blanc 1999Always scintillating
44La Pousse D'Or Clos De La Bousse D'Or 1993Understated brilliance, now perfectly resolved
43Ch. Leoville-Barton 2004Arguably first growth quality
42Gorelli Brunello Di Montalcino Il Pottazzine 2012A revelation, puts Brunello back on my map
41Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 1999Finely honed
40Ch. Talbot 2010So delicious and accessible now, whilst classic Talbot
39Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chinieri 2013Enthralling young Barolo, lithe and light on its feet
38Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda 2010Towering; a formidable future
37Ch. Pontet Canet 2009That extra pizazz to eclipse the 2005
36Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Meursault Perrieres 2011Thrilling future, drink over 2-3 days
35Gaja Barbaresco 1990 Exhiliarating now, long future
34Ch. Rauzan-Segla 2010Like the Talbot another delicious, accessible 2010
33Azelia Barolo Riserva Bricco Vaghera 2001Complex, pleasurable very fine matue barolo
32Ch. Montrose 2003Now fully mature, pleasurable
31Ch. Gruaud-Larose 1985A wine at its peak when the estate was at its peak
30Ch. La Conseillante 2012Stood out among the 2016s
29Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1996Showstopping finish
28Ch. Leoville Barton 1985Quintessential glass of fine mature claret
27Giacosa Barbaresco 1990Pure, rich, fruity, mature, fine
26Kiralyudvar Tokaji 6 putonoyos 1999Wonderful mocha and chocolate-infused palate
25Daniel Rion Echezeaux 2010Pure, dense, rich, racy
24Ch. Beaucastel 'Hommage' 1990Distinctive thrilling Mouvedre
23Ch. Mouton Rothschild 2000Elegant, destined for greatness
22Gaja Barbaresco 1989A nose ahead of the 1990
21Coche Dury Meursault 2012Profoundly compelling as always
20Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina 1989Mature complex exhiliarating
19Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 1970Extraordinary bottle
18Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2013Benchmark for a barolo vintage which has everything
17Ch. Leoville Lascases 2012Easily first growth quality, atypically accessible
16Ch. Beaucastel 1978Gorgeous, stunning; best Beaucastel I have tried
15Ch. Pichon Baron 2005Runs the 2010 very close
14Ch. Lafite Rothschild 1981Exudes understated refinement and gravitas
13Ch.Ducru Beaucaillou 1995A revelation in 2017
12Ch. Pichon Baron 2010Benchmark for Baron and 2010 Bordeaux
11Ch. Montrose 2010Benchmark for Montrose and 2010 Bordeaux
10Ch. Leoville-Lascases 1988With the 85, the 'go to' LLC for current drinking
9Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot 1990Kaleidoscopic magical mystery tour
8Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino 1990Needs five hours, legendary old school Barolo
7Penfolds Grange 1998Grange at its best; compelling now
6JF Mugnier Musigny 2005Perfection in the making
5DRC Richebourg 2004Imperious, already broachable
4Ch. Figeac 1982Understated perfection; prelude to Deep Purple
3Ch. Lynch-Bages 1982Best ever experience with Lynch-Bages
2DRC La Tache 1996Greatness in the making, give it 5-10 years
1Ch. Cheval Blanc 1985Elegance and complexity which is unmatched

Monday, 13 February 2017

Six days in burgundy and 130 wines


I was planning to dash down to burgundy in Jan/Feb to stock up and I cheekily asked Alex if I could join him and his burgundy aficionado friend Ian Westcott from Melbourne on their annual pilgrimage to the hallowed turf. 

I have never spent more than a few days in burgundy - I am usually en route somewhere else or en route back - so this trip was an eye opener. My mother who is in hospital urged me to go, which was some consolation for missing BWE '17. 

Burgundian winemakers are justly proud of what they have and what they have achieved - not just because they are blessed with some of the most extraordinary terroir on the planet, but also through unstinting dedication and commitment. 

Nobody understands burgundy better than they do. Some critics understand burgundy better than others, and some have rightly had their sorry asses run right out of town.

Comte Flâneur Star Rating 

1/2 - awful; * poor; *1/2 mediocre; ** not bad; ** 1/2 quite good; *** good;  ***1/2 very good; **** excellent; ****1/2 outstanding;  ***** magnificent;  *****1/2 astonishing;  ****** extraordinary

Scores with brackets (-) implies scope for improvement with age

Saturday

We stopped off on the way down and drank:

Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2014 ****
Coche Dury Meursault 2012 *****
Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques 2010 ***(**)

The Coche was thick textured. I prefer the racier 2011, but it is nonetheless a remarkably brilliant wine. But do we over rate it? Arguably the price gap with other good wines from the commune is unjustified. With the CSJ we could have chosen a 2011 or 12 which probably would have shown a bit more. 

Sunday

We had lunch at Ian's gite in Meursault with two growers and their wives. Also attending were Alex, Maureen and the irrepressible Greg Love. It was a memorable occasion. Ian supplied more than his fair share including the champagnes, which I don't get too excited about, and the grand Cru red burgundies - plenty of reason to be excited. The fact that the Mugnier Musigny 2005 was sheer perfection was less surprising than the fact that it was (just about) ready to drink. I reckon with 10-20 years it will show even more complexity. Patrick Essa and Jean-Marc Pillot not only make top notch wines but are brilliant blind tasters, nailing the GCs. At Alex's suggestion I threw in two kiwi wines, one a '100 pointer' (Bob Campbell), and they acquitted themselves well. Patrick and Jean-Marc were politely respectful and complimentary on both. 

Champagne Pertois Lebrun Exaltation **
Champagne Larmardier Bernie 1996 **1/2 
Champagne Sugot-Feneuil **
Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 2014 ***1/2
Boisset-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Bouche Cheres 2013 ****
Boisset-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Les Tessons ****
Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay 2014 ***1/2
Coesens Couteaux Champenois 2014 *1/2
Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2012 ***
Boisson-Charles Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 2014 ***(*)
Jean Marc-Pillot Chassagne Montrachet (Rouge) 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean 2015 ***(*)
Jean Raphet Clos De La Roche 1999 ****
Frederic Esmonin Chambertin Clos De Beze 1998 ****1/2
Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2005 *****(*)
Camille-Giroud Grand Cru Corton Le Clos Du Roi 2007 ***
Fourier Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combes Aux Moines 1995 ***
Chateau Belair, St-Emilion, 2000 ****

Monday

The first appointment was with the perfectly attired, witty and sharp Jacques Seysess who founded Domaine Dujac in 1968. His 15s show enormous promise and the 1996 Clos De La Roche is fully resolved and a thrill to drink. In the afternoon we visited Pascale Rion who show-cased her excellent 2014s. 

Dujac Chambolle Musigny 2015 **(*)
Dujac Morey Saint Denis 2015 ***(*)
Dujac Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers 2015 **(**)
Dujac Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Malconsorts 2015 **(**1/2)
Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2015 ****(*)
Dujac Clos De La Roche 2015 ***(**)
Dujac Bourgogne Blanc 2015 **
Dujac Clos De La Roche 1996 *****
Daniel Rion Bourgogne Rouge 2014 **1/2
Daniel Rion Cote De Nuits Villages 2014 ***
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Lavieres 2014 ***
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Grand Vignes 2014 ***
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2014 ***1/2
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vigne Rondes 2014 ***1/2
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 2014 ***1/2 
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2014 ****
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes 2014 ****
Daniel Rion Echezeaux 2014 ****1/2
Daniel Rion Clos Vougeot 2014 ****1/2
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes 2008 ***1/2
Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Les Encegnieres 2014 ***

Tuesday

A cold miserable day, and freezing cold cellars. Bertrand Chevillon's wines are simply top drawer. My favourite was Cailles, which has that bit extra finesse. After lunch in Le Milliseme we headed across the road to Frederic Mugnier, which was a memorable treat. I guess you could say his Amoureuses is a wine to kill for and his '15 Musigny may match his '05. Then we headed out to the back of beyond in Haut-Cotes Du Nuits to visit the erudite David Duband. The wines started off slow and stalky, but rose inexorably to a grand cru crescendo. Pruliers came up trumps several times on this trip, and Duband's was rich and scintillating. 

Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chaignots 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Bousselots 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Roncieres 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Perriers 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2015 **(**)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Cailles 2015 **(**1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Saints Georges 2015 **(**1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 2015 **(**1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 2014 **(**)
Jules Desjourneys L'Interdit (Beaujolais) 2008 * 1/2
Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 2015 ***(*1/2)
Frederic Mugnier Nuits Saints Georges Clos De La Marechale 2015 ***(*)
Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Fuee 2015 ***(*1/2)
Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny Les Amoreuses 2015 ****(*)
Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2015 ****(*1/2)
Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2015 ****(*)
Frederic Mugnier Nuits Saint Georges Clos De La Marechale Blanc 2015 ***
Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2014 ****(*)
David Duband Haut Cotes De Nuits 2015 *(*)
David Duband Gevrey Chambertin 2015 *(*1/2)
David Duband Morey Saint Denis 2015 **(*)
David Duband Vosne Romanee 2015  **(*)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 2015 **(*)
David Duband Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Broc 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbe 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey 2015  ***(*1/2)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2015 ***(*1/2)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Proces 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Exchezeaux 2015 ***1/2(*)
David Duband Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
David Duband Latricieres Chambertin 2015 ***1/2(*)
David Duband Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
David Duband Vosne Romanee 2010 ***
David Duband Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Sorbes 2008 ****

Wednesday

Romain Taupenot welcomed us on a cold Wednesday morning. I really loved his saline Auxey, which thrived in 2015, but this was a strong showing across the board. Maybe his More Delphic Mayozeres edged out his Charmes but they were both sublime. After lunch we were welcomed by the effusive Patrice Rion, a different personality to his sister a couple of hundred metres down the road. Patrice is focused on energy efficiency and attention to detail especially during bottling and has become a hot property. His Villages NSG and Argillieres were very good indeed, and his lacy Amoureuses was to die for. Domaine Poissot in Corton was the last visit. His Corton Charlemagne from 70-year old vines is one of the best I have tried. His RSV is arguably on the best plot in that vineyard just across from Romanee Conti: power, class, elegance, complexity.

Taupenot Merme Auxey Duress 1er Cru 2015 ***(1/2)
Taupenot Merme Chambolle Musigny 2015 **(*)
Taupenot Merme Gevrey Chambertin 2015 **(*)
Taupenot Merme Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru Riottes 2015 ***(*)
Taupenot Merme Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2015 ***(*)
Taupenot Merme Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
Taupenot Merme Mayozeres Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Du Clos De Fees Cotes Du Roussillon Villages 2012 *
Patrice Rion Bourgogne Rouge 2015 *(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 2015 *1/2(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 2015 **(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2015 ****(*)
Patrice Rion Vougeot Les Cras 2015 **(*)
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Villages **1/2(*)
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Les Argillieres 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Clos Saint Marc Monopole 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Bonnes Mares ****(*)
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Terres Blanches 2015 ***1/2
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Terres Blanches 2014 ***1/2
Domaine Poisot Pernand Vergelesses Blanc 2015 **(*)
Domaine Poisot Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradoux Rouge 2015 **(*)
Domaine Poisot Corton Charlemagne 2014 ****(*)
Domaine Poisot Corton Charlemagne 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Poisot Corton Bressandes 2015 ***(*1/2) 
Domaine Poisot Corton Bressandes 2014 ***(*)
Domaine Poisot Romanee Saint Vivant 2015 ***(**1/2)
Domaine Poisot Romanee Saint Vivant 2014 ***(**)
Patrice Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Clos Saint Marc Monopole 2008 **(*)
Daniel Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2008 ****

Thursday

On Thursday we had two very enjoyable tastings with Domaines Bichot and Faiveley, which are not only slick marketing operations but turnout more than decent wines. Bichot's whites were marvellous, while the Clos De Cortons was the pick of the Faiveley bunch. Both are a huge presence in NSG. We had a picnic lunch next to Romanee Conti with pate and champagne to celebrate Ian's birthday. It was only three degrees centigrade, but it was comforting to know that Donald Trump could only afford to buy a few square metres for cash. Otoh Vladimir Putin could probably afford to buy the whole 1.8 hectares. 

Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Secret De Famille 2014 **
Albert Bichot Pommard Clos Des Ursines Monopole - Domaine Du Pavillon 2013 **(*)
Albert Bichot Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chateau Gris - Monopole 2012 ***(1/2)
Albert Bichot Clos De Vougeot, Domaine du Clos Frantin 2011 ***(*)
Albert Bichot Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins - Domaine Long-Depaquit 2015 ***1/2
Albert Bichot Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne - Domaine Long-Depaquit 2014 ****
Albert Bichot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - Domaine Du Pavillon 2014 ***1/2
Albert Bichot Corton Charlemagne - Domaine Du Pavillon 2014 ****1/2
Champagne Francois Chaumont Blanc De Blancs **
Roses De Jeanne Champagne Cote De Val Vilaine **
Domaine Duroche Gevrey Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois 2014 ****
Domaine Faiveley Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots 2015 ***(1/2)
Domaine Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2015 ***(*)
Domaine Faiveley Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos Des Cortons 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Faiveley Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain 2015 ***(1/2)
Domaine Faiveley Corton Charlemagne ***1/2(*)
Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthal Rully 2014 ***
Thierry et Pascale Matrot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux 2010 ****
Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin La Justice ***
La Maison Romane Fixin Les Clos 2014 **1/2 wines drunk last week


Thursday, 29 December 2016

H2 2016 top 100 revised

This is the revised top 100 for H2 2016. The earlier version missed out a few notable wines including a couple of sublime Pichon Lalandes (78 and 88) a couple of great Californian Chardonnays (Ceritas and Aubert), a stunning 1978 Cote Rotie and a Richebourg, which only just scraped in to the cut. Many good wines did not make it even into the original top 100 like 1964 and 2004 Dom Perignon and 1995 Krug. None of the very good Haut-Baillys from our October dinner made the cut either. 

The top 100 for H2 2016 did not include samples of DRC Richebourg 1995, Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1978 and Chateau-Lafite Rothschild 1929, all of which were magnificent, but the samples were too small to qualify. With bigger samples the latter two in particular would be strong contenders for a podium. It was a fabulous drinking year against the depressing background of the UK referendum result and Trump's election. In politics 2016 was the year of the charlatan. Fine wine drinking was the perfect distraction. 

100 Noël Verset Cornas 2000
99 Anne Gros Richebourg 2000
98 Chateau Grillet Cuvée Renaissance 1972
97 Tattinger Comtes De Champagne 1994
96 Clape Cornas 1996
95 Bollinger Grand Annee 1990
94 Chave Hermitage Blanc 1985
93 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon 1997
92 Chateau Palmer 1996
91 Sorrel Hermitage Le Greal 2009
90 Dominus 1989
89 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron 1990
88 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1982
87 Chateau Talbot 1985
86 Chateau Latour A Pomerol 2001
85 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 1999
84 Vietti Barolo Brunate 2000
83 Chateau D'Yquem 1990
82 Chateau Magdelaine 1985
81 Dom Perignon 2005
80 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1998
79 Paitin di Pasquero Elia Barbaresco Sori Paitin 1989
78 Chateau D'Yquem 2004
77 Chateau Figeac 2011
76 Chateau Pichon Lalande 2005
75 Produttori Del Barbaresco 1971
74 Bernard Faurie Hermitage 1999
73 Chateau D'Yquem 1980
72 Chateau Ausone 1979
71 Cornas Guy De Barjac 1983
70 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas-Francois Billecart 1999
69 Giacosa Barbaresco 1997
68 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000
67 Ceritas Chardonnay Ritchie 2009
66 Mark Aubert Ritchie Chardonnay 2009
65 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1994
64 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 1990
63 Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2001
62 Chapoutier Vin De Paille 1990
61 Chateau Coutet 1989
60 Chateau Angelus 1989
59 Chateau Brane-Catenac 1966
58 Chateau D'Yquem 2003
57 Accomasso Barolo Rochette 1999
56 Chateau Pichon Lalande 1988
55 Y De Yquem 2014
54 Chateau Leoville-Barton 2008
53 Chateau Latour 1978
52 Jasmin Cote-Rotie 1995
51 Chateau Montrose 2008
50 Rayas Chateauneuf Du Pape 1998
49 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1995
48 Castello Y Gay Rioja 1942
47 Chateau Palmer 2000
46 Chateau Pavie 1989
45 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1995
44 Jaboulet Cote Rotie Vercherre 1978
43 Chateau Pichon Lalande 1978
42 Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1989
41 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1976
40 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1988
39 Chateau Margaux 1982
38 Chateau Angelus 1990
37 Clape Cornas 1990
36 Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 1999
35 Chateau Talbot 1986
34 Chateau Figeac 1998
33 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1996
32 Noël Verset Cornas 1999
31 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1999
30 Chateau Pavie 1990
29 Pruduttori Del Barbaresco 1964
28 Chateau Pichon Lalande 1982
27 Chateau Haut-Brion 1982
26 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1990
25 Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 2001
24 Chapoutier Hermitage Vin De Paille 1995
23 Chateau D'Yquem 1985
22 Chateau La Conseillante 1986
21 Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tilden 1989
20 Rousseau Clos De La Roche 1999
19 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1978
18 Coche-Dury Meursault 2011
17 Chateau D'Yquem 1989
16 Chateau Margaux 1983
15 Chateau D'Yquem 1988
14 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 1982
13 Giacosa Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2001
12 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino 1990
11 Ramonet Bienvennues-Batard Montrachet 2008
10 Chave Hermitage 1982
9 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1982
8 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982
7 Chateau Ausone 1982
6 Noël Verset Cornas 1998
5 Cote-Rotie Jasmin 1990
4 Chateau D'Yquem 1971
3 Chateau Latour 1982
2 Chateau D'Yquem 1976
1 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1982

Monday, 26 December 2016

Top 100 wines in H2 2016, up to Boxing Day

The top 100 for H2 2016 did not include samples of DRC Richebourg 1995, Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1978 and Chateau-Lafite Rothschild 1929, all of which were magnificent, but the samples were too small to qualify for the list of top 100 wines.

100 Chateau Haut Bailly 1995
99 Noël Verset Cornas 2000
98 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 1992
97 Tattinger Comtes De Champagne 1994
96 Clape Cornas 1996
95 Bollinger Grand Annee 1990
94 Anne Gros Richebourg 2000
93 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon 1997
92 Chateau Montrose 2003
91 Chateau Grillet Cuvée Renaissance 1972
90 Dominus 1989
89 Chave Hermitage Blanc 1985
88 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron 1990
87 Sorrel Hermitage Le Greal 2009
86 Chateau Latour A Pomerol 2001
85 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 1999
84 Chateau Branaire Ducru 2005
83 Chateau D'Yquem 1990
82 Chateau Talbot 1985
81 Dom Perignon 2005
80 Vietti Barolo Brunate 2000
79 Paitin di Pasquero Elia Barbaresco Sori Paitin 1989
78 Chateau D'Yquem 2004
77 Chateau Figeac 2011
76 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1982
75 Chateau Palmer 1996
74 Bernard Faurie Hermitage 1999
73 Chateau D'Yquem 1980
72 Chateau Ausone 1979
71 Cornas Guy De Barjac 1983
70 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas-Francois Billecart 1999
69 Giacosa Barbaresco 1997
68 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000
67 Chateau Pichon Lalande 2005
66 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1998
65 Chateau Magdelaine 1985
64 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 1990
63 Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2001
62 Chapoutier Vin De Paille 1990
61 Produttori Del Barbaresco 1971
60 Chateau Angelus 1989
59 Chateau Brane-Catenac 1966
58 Chateau D'Yquem 2003
57 Accomasso Barolo Rochette 1999
56 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1994
55 Y De Yquem 2014
54 Chateau Leoville-Barton 2008
53 Chateau Latour 1978
52 Jasmin Cote-Rotie 1995
51 Chateau Montrose 2008
50 Rayas Chateauneuf Du Pape 1998
49 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1995
48 Chateau Coutet 1989
47 Chateau Palmer 2000
46 Chateau Pavie 1989
45 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1995
44 Castello Y Gay Rioja 1942
43 Chateau Gruaud-Larose 1985
42 Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1989
41 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1976
40 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1988
39 Chateau Margaux 1982
38 Chateau Angelus 1990
37 Clape Cornas 1990
36 Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 1999
35 Chateau Talbot 1986
34 Chateau Figeac 1998
33 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1996
32 Noël Verset Cornas1999
31 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1999
30 Chateau Pavie 1990
29 Pruduttori Del Barbaresco 1964
28 Chateau Pichon Lalande 1982
27 Chateau Haut-Brion 1982
26 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1990
25 Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 2001
24 Chapoutier Hermitage Vin De Paille 1995
23 Chateau D'Yquem 1985
22 Chateau La Conseillante 1986
21 Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tilden 1989
20 Rousseau Clos De La Roche 1999
19 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1978
18 Coche-Dury Meursault 2011
17 Chateau D'Yquem 1989
16 Chateau Margaux 1983
15 Chateau D'Yquem 1988
14 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 1982
13 Giacosa Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2001
12 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino 1990
11 Ramonet Bienvennues-Batard Montrachet 2008
10 Chave Hermitage 1982
9 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1982
8 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982
7 Chateau Ausone 1982
6 Noël Verset Cornas 1998
5 Cote-Rotie Jasmin 1990
4 Chateau D'Yquem 1971
3 Chateau Latour 1982
2 Chateau D'Yquem 1976
1 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1982

Friday, 23 December 2016

Top 100 wines in H1 2016

100 Chateau Soutard 2012
99 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1994
98 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1964
97 Duo De Conseillante 2009
96 Chateau Clos Saint-Martin 2011
95 Chateau Cantermerle 2005
94 Penfolds Grange 1983
93 Chateau D'Issan 1983
92 Chateau Pontet Canet 1994
91 Mascarello Barolo Villero 2007
90 Chevillon Nuits-Saints Georges Pruliers 2004
89 Chateau Cantermerle 1979
88 Chateau Calon Segur 1970
87 Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf 1998
86 Dom Perignon 1996
85 Chateau Cantermerle 1983
84 La Mission Haut Brion 1979
83 Chateau Brane Cantenac 2006
82 Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio 2007
81 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2013
80 Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan 1998
79 La Providence 2006
78 Chateau Leoville Lascases 1999
77 Chateau Leoville-Barton 1978
76 Daniel Rion Chambolle-Musigny Chaumes 1999
75 Chateau Beychevelle 1995
74 Chateau Palmer 2007
73 Chateau Pape Clement 1998
72 Chateau Talbot 2008
71 Chateau Magdelaine 2011
70 Chateau Margaux 1924
69 Mommessin Chambertin Clos De Beze 1976
68 Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne En Remilly 2013
67 Clos Du Marquis 1990
66 Burlotto Barolo 2012
65 Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 1985
64 Chateau Cantermerle 2000
63 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2000
62 Domaine Bressy Masson Rasteau Rancio
61 Chateau Cantermerle 1996
60 Daniel Rion Exchezeaux 2011
59 Chateau Leoville-Barton 1994
58 Chateau Haut-Brion 1997
57 Gangloff Cote Rotie Barbarine 2011
56 Chateau Margaux 1988
55 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2006
54 Chateau Margaux 1978
53 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2004
52 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1994
51 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2005
50 Chateau La Conseillante 1989
49 Chateau Leoville Lascases 1995
48 Giacosa Barbaresco 1997
47 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 2011
46 Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1985
45 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay 2014
44 Chateau Beausejour Daffau Lagarosse 1982
43 Mommessin Clos De Tart 1995
42 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2012
41 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1993
40 Chateau Margaux 1998
39 Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999
38 Hosanna 1999
37 Chateau Cheval Blanc 1999
36 Chateau Rieussec 1983
35 Chateau Pichon Lalande 1981
34 Chateau Beychevelle 2005
33 Chateau Leoville Lascases 1988
32 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1975
31 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc 1999
30 Chateau Leoville Lascases 1990
29 Chateau Leoville Lascases 2009
28 Chateau La Conseillante 2009
27 Chateau Palmer 1989
26 Dujac Gevrey Combottes 2006
25 Chateau d'Yquem 1988
24 Chateau La Conseilllante 2010
23 Chateau Palmer 1999
22 Chateau Lynch-Bages 1985
21 Chave Hermitage 1978
20 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2011
19 Chateau Cantermerle 1989
18 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1986
17 Chateau Cos d'Estournel 1989
16 Chateau Margaux 1986
15 Chateau Leoville-Barton 1990
14 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2008
13 Chateau Pichon Lalande 1989
12 Chateau Margaux 2001
11 Chateau La Conseillante 1990
10 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1982
9 Chateau Margaux 1982
8 Chateau Margaux 1999
7 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2010
6 Chateau Leoville-Lascases 1961
5 Chateau Margaux 1990
4 Chateau Margaux 1961
3 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1998
2 Chateau Margaux 1996
1 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 2009