Penfolds Grange dinner at the Ledbury

A magnificent dinner at the Ledbury restaurant in Notting Hill, last Wednesday the 22nd January. Currently a Michelin two star, on this showing it won't be long before it gets its third star.

To start: 

Kangaroo Scotch Egg, 
Cheese and Vegemite on Toast

Grilled Scottish Langoustine 
with Caramelised Sourdough and Blood Orange


1988 Philipponnat, Grand Blanc, Brut 
(Disgorged 2007) 

Pale, youthful looking, fresh, lively, lifted vibrant; very refined

We raised our glasses in memory of Chris Longstaff. 



First course:

Roast Breast of Quail with Chestnut Cream, 
Chanterelles and Thyme


1975 Penfolds Grange 

Remarkably youthful opaque colour, this started out quite slowly despite having been double decanted four hours earlier, it unfurled and improved over the evening and really began to sing. A magnificent bottle! Still on the young side with subtle animal (?) and minty notes, this is a somewhat restrained rendition of Penfolds Grange. It is medium-full bodied and has years left. Drink now-2040. 

1982 Penfolds Grange 

A more expressive, sweeter attack, even with some porty notes. On the palate it was ripe, rich and opulent with dark chocolate notes. A much more exuberant style of Grange. Absolutely exquisite. Drink now-2045.

1983 Penfolds Grange

More pronounced menthol and eucalyptus notes, from a very hot vintage this showed extremely well, but did not quite have the exquisite refinement and balance of its flight mates, but is still absolutely splendid. Drink now-2050. 


Second course:

Loin of Hare with Rhubarb, Black Pepper and Baked Carrots


1985 Penfolds Grange

This is a cool, silky, svelte, perfectly judged Grange. It has the power and will last for decades, but the emphasis here is on finesse and refinement. It has a zenlike finish. Probably my wine of the night, or equal with the 1982. Drink now-2050. 

1986 Penfolds Grange 

The 1986 is a more powerful, brutal and expressive wine than the 1985. It has trademark Barossa bush-viney notes with added weedy, piped tobacco. On the palate is full-bodied, dense, brooding and powerful. While this can be drunk with enormous pleasure now this wine is still evolving and has decades left. Drink now-2060. 

1988 Penfolds Grange 

The only wine which was possibly faulty, sensitive noses picked up some cork taint, but the wine held together extremely well all night. It lacked the smoothness and finesse of the 1985 and the power of the 1986, but on its own is still an impressive wine. Drink now-2050. 



Third course:

Fillet of Belted Galloway Beef with Root Vegetables, 
Black Truffle and Pine


1991 Penfolds Grange 

This had been open for 15 hours, but it was still quite brooding and backward. This has all the elements to evolve into a great wine, but I found it to be slightly awkward and lacking in charm, especially next to the 1992. Drink 2020-2070.

1992 Penfolds Grange

Clearly a young wine, which has only just entered its drinking window, but it is absolutely fabulous. I wish I owned this rather than the 1991. Drink now-2070. 

1996 Penfolds Grange

The youngest, biggest and most powerful wine on the slate last night. A colossus. A wine for your grandchildren. I was more in awe of this wine than in love with it. This wine could easily last 100 years and will not be fully ready for another 15. It is also synonymous with Penfolds Grange becoming bigger, more powerful, more monolithic over time as other monstrosities compete to take its mantle. Grange is still peerless in Australian wine. Drink 2030-2100. 


Dessert: 

Pear Cooked in Brown Butter with Walnut, 
Beremeal and Caramelised Goat’s Milk


2001 Château Rieussec, Fargues, Bordeaux

From a half bottle. Fresh, lifted, rich and concentrated and poised with a cool, languid finish. 



What are the conclusions? Penfolds Grange is every bit as great as its reputation suggests. The wines have a timeless quality about them, and will last for decades. The older the better. No other Australian wine comes close. 

Grange is simply one of the greatest wines in the world. It is as good as Chateau Latour, or the Guigal La-La's. 

The table voted the 1982, 1985 as wines of their flights with the 1992 and 1996 sharing honours in the last flight.

The table voted the 1975 and 1982 as the best wines of the night.


I bracketed the wines in to three layers, with the pecking order in each layer:

First tier: 1985, 1982, 1975 – 97/98 points?
Second tier: 1992, 1983, 1986 – 95 points?
Third tier: 1991, 1996, 1988 – 92/93 points?

A wine for New Year's Eve

A delightful and fully resolved bottle of Mouton with the accent on elegance rather than raw power. The nose is also less exuberant than other vintages of Mouton with red berries, woodsy notes and hints of cedar, mint and tobacco. On the palate it is medium bodied, suave, elegant and complex, and the tannins are fully resolved. The mid-palate is deceptively rich and powerful but the emphasis is much more on elegance. This wine has developed some musty church pew, and old leather armchair notes, which suggests to me that it is approaching the end of its drinking window. Like many other 1983 clarets this will not make old bones. But it is wonderful now, and a rare opportunity to drink a fully resolved Mouton.

The 2013 top 100

This is the list of my top 100 wines in 2013. It was a brilliant year for wine drinking. One of the best ever. The top half a dozen wines were consumed in and around my 50th birthday, and will always remain etched in my memory. 

By country 89% are French, 7% are Italian, 2% Australian and one each Spain and Portugal.  

Of the total 51% are from Bordeaux (57% of the French wine), 20% from Burgundy (22%), 16% from the Rhone (18%) and 2% from other regions (one Alsace and one Champagne).

Within Bordeaux 31% of the total (61% of Bordeaux) are from the left bank excluding Pessac/Graves, 16% (31%) from the right bank, three from Sauternes/Barsac and one from Graves/Pessac.  On the left bank 13% of the total (42% of the left bank) are from Pauillac and 6% (19%) from St-Julien and 7% (23%) from the Margaux commune. The most popular estates are Latour (six wines), Chateau Margaux (six), Chateau Montrose (four) and Chateau Talbot (four). On the right bank there are 12 wines from Pomerol and four from St-Emilion. Within Pomerol there are four wines from La Fleur Petrus, three from Certan De May and two each from La Conseillante and Lafleur.  Within Sauternes Barsac two of the three wines are Chateau d’Yquem.

Within Burgundy there are eight Cotes De Nuits reds, and ten Cotes De Beaune whites, with one Cote De Beaune red and one Chablis. Within the Rhone half the wines, eight in total, are Cote Rotie. There are two whites and only one Southern Rhone. In Italy all the wine are Piedmont and either Barolo or Barbaresco.

100. Chateau Montrose 1986

99. Chateau Lafleur Petrus 1995

98. Chateau Certan De May 2001

97. Feyles Barbaresco Riserva 1989
96. Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 2006

95. Raul Perez Ultreia La Claudina 2010

94. Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 1995

93. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011

92. Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos De Beze 2008

91. Chateau Duhart Milon 1996

90. Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

89. Patrick Javiller Meursault Tillets 2009

88. Chateau Beaucastel 1994

87. Ascheri Barolo Vigna Dei Pola 1995

86. M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal 1996

85. Louis Latour Romanee Saint Vivant Les Quatre Journaux 2002

84. Louis Latour Criots-Batard Montrachet 2000

83. Chateau Angelus 1989

82. Vincent Bouzereau Meursault Narvaux 2010

81. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981

80. Chateau Talbot 1986

79. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1989

78. Chateau Palmer 1996

77. Michel Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers 1995

76. Chateau Beausejour Becot 1996

75. Chateau Talbot 1982

74. Chateau Haut-Bailly 1998

73. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 2011

72. Chateau Chasse Spleen 1982

71. Chateau Batailley 1989

70. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1970

69. Chateau Latour 1981

68. Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet En Remilly 2011

67. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet, 1erCru, Grandes Ruchottes, 2007

66. Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2007

65. Chateau Talbot 2001

64. Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 2004

63. Chateau La Dominique 1996

62. Sorrel Hermitage Blanc Les Recoules 2001

61. Trimbach Cuvée Frederic Emile Riesling 2001

60. Chateau Talbot 1996

59. Chateau Latour 1997

58. Noel Verset Cornas 1998

57. Pavillon Blanc Du Chateau Margaux 2003

56. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudroittes 1992

55. Chateau Grillet 2005

54. Robert Arnoux Clos De Vougeot 2002

53. Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne 1992

52. Chateau Certan De May 1990

51. Chave Hermitage 1988

50. Mount Mary Quintet 1999

49. Guigal Cote-Rotie Chateau D’Ampuis 1997

48. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1970

47. Noel Verset Cornas 1990

46. Philipponnat Clos De Goisses 2002

45. Chateau Margaux 2009

44. Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2007

43. La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de La Bousse d'Or 1996

42. Guigal Cote Rotie 1976

41. Jamet Cote-Rotie 1997

40. Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet 2008

39. Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 2004

38. Chateau Montrose 2005

37. Chateau La Conseillante 1989

36. Roberto Vierzio Barolo La Serra 1995

35. Gilles Barge Cote Rotie Cuvee Du Plessis 1991

34. Cuilleron, Gaillardia, Villard Cote-Rotie Les Essartailles 1999

33. Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga 2001/07

32. Chateau Latour 1983

31. Chateau Montrose 2003

30. Chateau La Conseillante 1990

29. Chateau Latour 1985

28. Chateau La Fleur Petrus 2012

27. Chateau Montrose 2010

26. Chateau d'Yquem 1986

25. Chateau Climens 1988

24. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990

23. Grahams Port 1963

22. Chateau Certan De May 1998

21. Chateau Figeac 1990

20. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1983

19. Chateau La Fleur Petrus 1998

18. Camille-Giroud Charmes Chambertin 2006

17. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984

16. Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999

15. Aldo Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia 1974

14. Chateau Lafleur 2001

13. Chateau Margaux 2001

12. Chateau Petrus 1990

11. Chateau Latour 1970

10. Chateau Lafleur 1995

9. Chateau Lafleur-Petrus 1971

8. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 

7. Chateau Margaux 1959

6. Chateau Margaux 1996

5. Ramonet Montrachet 1988

4. Chateau Latour 1982

3. Chateau Margaux 2010

2. Chateau D’Yquem 2001

1. Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Romanee Conti 1980

Wines over Christmas

Chateau Batailley 1989

This is head and shoulders above anything this estate has ever made and has been in the zone for ten years and will remain there for another five. There is so much going on in this wonderfully chewy style of Pauillac with notes of lead pencil, tobacco and berries, graphite and forest floor, and it is now developing more noticeable old leather armchair notes. 92

Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint George's Les Pruliers 2006

A lot of structure and density with blood and meaty notes, this is undoubtedly young with its best years ahead of it but it is a compelling young burgundy. It is intense with a dense mid palate overlaid with spicey notes and a fine finish. Will only get better as it gains complexity and smooths over its rough edges. 91

Château Chasse-Spleen 1982

A fabulous wine with notes of graphite and charcoal, strawberries, umami, earth and elderflower. Firing on all cylinders and right at its apogee. 92

ChateauTalbot 2001

A fine 2001 St-Julien this is really starting to come together, as it moves out of its primary to its secondary phase, and tobacco and earthy notes come to the fore. Drinking well now this will only improve as it gains in complexity over the next five to ten years. Talbot: the quiet over achiever. 91

Chateau La Dominique 1996

Melvyn and the cool notes. Cool menthol notes, plums and red fruits, overlaid with subtle mineral and smoky notes. An absolute delight. Refined, medium- bodied St -Emilion, quietly classy with the accent on restraint. Such a refreshing change from some modern, grotesque right bank creations. This is drinking sublimely well now, and should continue to do so over the next five plus years. 92

Chateau Margaux 1959

Bright garnet-bricking and a lively nose of balsamico, spices and flowers. On the palate it is long fresh and juicy with a smorgasbord of meats, tobacco, truffles, spices and herbs. It is deceptively powerful and concentrated but oh so poised and fresh. A beautifully nuanced and classy wine. This is fully resolved example of a great Bordeaux and Chateau Margaux vintage. 97

Aldo Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia 1974

Resplendent translucent mahogany hue, floral tones overlaid with haunting woodsy, underbrush and bonfire notes; as it opens up majestically over 90 minutes it puts on weight and becomes richer with hints of roasted almonds; by now it is singing with the power and authority of Pavarotti. It is perfectly poised throughout. After about two and a half hours it bows out gracefully and recedes like a sailboat into a glorious shimmering sunset. 95

Chave Hermitage 1988

Red robe, garnet rim, lively and expressive on the nose with red fruits, peppers, peat, bonfire and gamey meaty notes. On the palate beefy/bovril notes come to the fore and it is as lean as a Cheetah, without being thin. This medium bodied wine lacks the density, mid-plate stuffing and finish of the likes of the 1990 but it is nevertheless an enthralling and riveting wine. I don't think there is any point in holding out for better to come; but neither is there any hurry to drink up. 93

Marc Sorrel Hermitage "Les Recoules" 2001 (Blanc)

Initial oxidisation on the nose blew off to reveal a beautiful wine with a golden hue, rich notes of honeysuckle, quince with a hint of aniseed. Dense, rich, unctuous (and quite alcoholic) on the palate. 92

Chateau Figeac 1995

Drunk on Christmas Day from a half bottle this had dark fruits, dark chocolate, with tobacco, leafy, notes, with musky, leathery notes on the mid palate. 88

Top 50 wines in Q4 2013

50. Domaine De Chevalier 1996

49. Ridge Monte Bello 1991

48. Chateau Beychevelle 1928

47. Henschke Julius Riesling 2007

46. Dominus 1991

45. Gilles Barges Cote Rotie Du Plessis 2001

44. Chateau Grillet 2006

43. Chateau Pichon Baron 1996

42. Ponsot Chambertin 1997

41. Pierre Yves Colin Morey St-Aubin Les Charmois 2011

40. Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2005

39. Castello Di Nieve Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 2007

38. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 2011

37. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Les Boudroittes 2011

36. Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2001

35. Chateau Grillet 2008

34. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996

33. Chateau Palmer 1996

32. Chateau Montrose 1986

31. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981

30. Noel Verset Cornas 1995

29. Chateau Giscours 1996

28. M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal 1996

27. Chateau Lafleur Petrus 1989

26. Ascheri Barolo Vigna Dei Pola 1995

25. Noel Verset Cornas 1999

24. Chateau Duhart Milon 1996

23. M Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers 1995

22. Chateau Beausejour Becot 1996

21. J L Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 2011

20. Chateau Talbot 1982

19. Lafleur Petrus 2010

18. Lafleur Petrus 1995

17. Cuilleron, Gaillardia, Villard Cote-Rotie Les Essartailles 1999

16. Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga 2001/07

15. Noel Verset Cornas 1998

14. Trimbach Cuvée Frederic Emile Riesling 2001

13. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1989

12. Chateau Talbot 1996

11. Chateau Montrose 2005

10. Chateau Montrose 2003

9. La Fleur Petrus 2012

8. Volnay Clos De La Bousse D'Or La Bousse D'Or 1996

7. Chateau Montrose 2010

6. Chateau d'Yquem 1986

5. Chateau Climens 1988

4. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990

3. La Fleur Petrus 1998

2. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984

1. Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999

No pretense at consistency with previous notes 

Chateau Montrose

On 17th November as part of the Decanter Master Class series we tasted eight vintages of Chateau Montrose and two of the second wine, La Dame de Montrose. The tasting was tutored by Herve Berland, who moved across to Montrose last year after 35 years at Mouton Rothschild. 

He was appointed after the retirement of Jean Delmas, formerly of Chateau Haut-Brion. Delmas still works as a consultant for Montrose, which therefore effectively has two former first growth winemakers overseeing the winemaking. However all of the wines we tasted effectively pre-dated Berland. 

Of the total production about 50-55% goes into the Grand Vin and 20-25% into La Dame. The GV is typically about 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. La Dame is typically predominantly merlot, but the 2003, which we tried, was predominantly cabernet because the thinner-skinned merlot had a tough time in the torrid heat of 2003. 

La Dame de Montrose 2009

This is 82% merlot. It is suave, harmonious with berry fruit and still young. 16/20

La Dame de Montrose 2003

Atypically 65% cabernet sauvignon. Spicey, raspberry, with cigar box notes. Very ripe, but quite balanced and little sign of heat damage. Easier to drink than the 2009 Dame. 16

Chateau Montrose 2010

This is 53% cabernet, 37% merlot, 9% cabernet franc. This is astonishingly good wine. It is rich, dense structured and powerful, but elegant, refined, fresh and uplifting. It has an equilibrium that the 09 can only dream about and is close to perfection. 19

Chateau Montrose 2009

Rounder, fuller, more opulent than the 2010; lower in acidity and oakier, but dense, ripe and powerful across the middle. It just lacks the precision and finesse of the 2010 in my opinion. More evidence in my book that 2010 is the better vintage. But others don’t see it that way. Interestingly the group marginally preferred this to the 2010. Berland, whilst acknowledging it is difficult to choose between the nine and the ten, rates this as the equal greatest Montrose ever, with the 1990. Still, I only gave it 18/20.

Chateau Montrose 2005

Like the 2009 roughly 65% CS, 30% merlot. More noticeable berry aromas. This is superb wine. It is not as opulent as the 2009 but is extremely well balanced and very long, rich and powerful. It still needs a long time, but is starting to show a glimpse of its potential. 18.5

Chateau Montrose 2003

Chateau Montrose is as well equipped as any other classed growth to deal with extreme heat, given the clay in the soil, which holds water and the proximity of the river. This is why, quite possibly Montrose is the wine of the vintage in 2003. It is more evolved than the 2005, with classic left bank notes of berries and cedar. It is still tannic but already gives a lot of pleasure. It is full bodied, very rich and concentrated without being unbalanced. It is mouthfilling, setting all the senses alight. It is certainly the best 2003 I have tasted. 18.5

Chateau Montrose 2000

The 2000 is a step down from the 2003 and 2005 but still a very good wine. It lacks the fine texture of the 03 and 05, and is still backward like the 05; the 03 is much easier to drink and much more enjoyable right now. The 2000 is a sturdy, even opulent wine with lead and iron notes and huge tannins. It should last more many decades, and is best left alone for at least another decade. 17.5

Chateau Montrose 1998

This has aged well, and still has an abundance of tannin. It does not have an abundance of fruit and ripeness, however, and this is noticeable after the previous wines. This is quite tough to drink on its own, and what it needs is food: something like a beef on the bone, to which it would undoubtedly be a fine accompaniment. 16

Chateau Montrose 1986

This wine is finally coming round, after being stubbornly tannic and unbroachable for nearly a quarter of a century. The nose is secondary, with interesting notes of rotting garbage, and ashtray. On the palate it is still a brute; big, brawny and chewy, with a lot of density and power, a characteristic of the vintage. 17

Chateau Montrose 1976. 

This is the second time I have tried this wine in less than a week. In the context of the vintage it is a triumph. It is holding together very well, and provides a lot of pleasure, with no sign that it is going into decline. However it is neither opulent nor long on the finish. 16

This was an interesting selection of wines from the Montrose stable, confirming its status as a super second in my book. But neither is it quite first growth quality in my opinion. These wines lack a certain delicacy and have a certain iron-fisted sternness, which does not always come in a velvet glove. And it only really hits you when you leave the room. 

I would commend these Decanter Master classes even though the pours were miserly today and the woman from Decanter can be irritating...she was even more sycophantic than usual with Berland and didn’t know when to shut up.

La Fleur Petrus

On 16th November we tried nine wines from this estate owned by the Moeuix family since 1950, as part of the Decanter Masterclass series. Today the vineyard is composed of three major blocks, LFPs 1, 2 and 3 on the "plateau" of Pomerol. The wine is typically 90% merlot and 10% cab franc.

The wines were presented by Eduoard Moeuix, the son of Christian. Eduoard spent quite a few years at Dominus, in California, one of the the estates the family owns. The others include Trotanoy, Latour A Pomerol, Hosanna and now Belair Monange in St-Emilion.

La Fleur-Petrus makes a style of wine that aims for finesse and complexity rather than power and extraction. As the tasting showed they don't always get it absolutely right, notably in some big vintages, but it is my kind of wine. 

The wines

1989

A restrained and delicate style of wine, despite being quite high in alcohol. Ripe but not opulent with some dried prunes, tobacco, gravel and mineral notes. A wine with the emphasis on finesse and complexity rather than exuberance. It is not in the same league as some other 1989 Pomerols, like La Fleur De Gay, but I rather like it. 17/20

1995

A slightly more radiant colour and more expressive nose, with minerals, cedar and some perfume. A little more structured than the 1989 but still nicely resolved, albeit with some residual tannic grip. Very smooth and elegant on the palate. Again not an exuberant wine, but a classy one. 17.5

1998

This wine took a while to come out of its shell, it was shy on the nose initially; it is nevertheless round, full and seamless; slightly more full-bodied and denser on the mid-palate than the 1995, this wine really started to sing after 90 minutes. Restrained, but complex, a beautiful wine. 18

2001

This had a more obvious nose of strawberries and grainy tannins. It is quite well resolved and drinking well, but it lacks the gravitas of the 1998 (and the 1995). 16

2005

Rich and concentrated with plummy Christmas cake notes; tannic structure. Opulent, and a little overripe, and hence less balanced and less elegant, than the previous wines. 16

2006

A likeable wine, despite its somewhat foursquare and simple personality. Quite delicious and approachable, with raspberry fruits. Lacks the depth and power of the 2005 and the complexity of the first three wines. 16

2009

Already very delicious, irresistible and quaffable, a wine which incorporates parcels from LFP2. Again raspberry, with hints of balsamico, with more opulence than the 2006. Despite the vintage this lacks the complexity and finesse of the 1995 and 1998. 17

2010

Similar to the 2009 but a bit less opulent, and a bit more structured, and perhaps a little more finesse. An outstanding wine, but I still prefer the 1998. 17.5

2012

Not as powerful as the 2010 nor as opulent as the 2009, but more elegant, and already absolutely delicious, with violets, truffles and mushrooms. Showing very well now. Light on its feet and dextrous. 18

La Fleur-Petrus is my kind of Pomerol, but too expensive to afford eally. I would, however, consider buying a case of the 2012, which will probably be on a par with the 1998, the best mature vintage we tried.

This estate probably made better wines in the nineties than the noughties, and the 2012 could mark a return to form. By all accounts the 12 is a better wine than its stable mates Latour A Pomerol and Hosanna.