We knew he was very unwell and fighting against quite formidable odds, but news of Richard's passing on Sunday 7th October was a crushing blow. He had a unique, inspirational and generous personality and he touched the lives of people he met. Even those who did not know him well were devastated by the news as the Wine Pages board attests. I first met Richard around Christmas 2009 at a 'best of class' dinner at The Ledbury where he very generously brought along a Chateau Rayas 1978. I don't count myself as one of his closest friends but I did get to know him quite well this year, and he showed great courage and optimism in the face of his condition. We had a memorable couple of conversations at his house over coffee, about anything and everything.
Richard every time I drink a glass of decent Northern Rhone I will think of you. And we will never forget you.
Wednesday, 17 October 2012
Top 50 wines in Q3 2012
50. Chateau Magdelaine 1988
49. Cornas 2003 (producer unknown)
48. Emille Balland Croq Caillotte Sancerre 2011
47. Chateau De Beaucastel Roussane Vieilles Vignes 1999
46. Chateau Certan De May 1982
45. Trimbach Clos St-Hune 1997
44. Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
43. Chateau Pape Clement Blanc 1996
42. Chateau Leoville-Barton 2002
41. Chateau Branaire Ducru 1982
40. Michel Cornas Geynale 1999
39. Chateau Montrose 2002
38. Hermitage La Chapelle 1985
37. Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2010
36. Georges De Latour Beaulieu Private Reserve 1980
35. Oddero Barolo 1967
34. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee 2007
33. Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1999
32. Michel Cornas Geynale 1990
31. Clerico Barolo Ginestra 2001
30. Clerico Barolo Pajana 2001
29. Lynch-Bages 2009
28. Gilles Barges Cote Rotie 1994
27. Chateau Talbot 1982
26. Jobard Meursault En Barre 2000
25.Verset Cornas 1996
24. CVNE Vina Real Reserva Rioja 1985
23. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1982
22. Cotat Cul de Beaujeu Sancerre 2009
21. Chateau Climens 1988
20. Verset Cornas 1995
19. Jamet Cote Rotie 1998
18. Coteau du Vernon Condrieu 2007
17. Chateau Figeac 1976
16. Donhoff Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke 2009
15. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Ancegnieres 2010
14. Dagueneau Silex 2009
13. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990
12. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982
11. Camille-Giroud Cortot Rognots 2007
10. Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin en Matrot 1996
9. Camille-Giroud Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts 1978
8. Chateau Grillet 1998
7. Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000
6. Chateau Magdelaine 1982
5. Chateau Clos Fourtet 2009
4. Chateau Pontet-Canet 2009
3. Chateau Palmer 1989
2. Harlan Estate 1994
1. Chateau Margaux 1982
Sunday, 8 July 2012
Top 50 wines in Q2 2012
50. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1945
49. Chateau Rivesaltes 1930
48. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1995
47. Chateau Figeac 1982
46. Marc Colin Saint Aubin Chateniere 2010
45. Mullineux Schist Syrah 2010
44. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1990
43. Chave Hermitage 1988
42. Henschke Louis Semillon 2007
41. Chateau Palmer 1986
40. Robert Michel Cornas ‘La Geynale’2001
39. Montez Condrieu 2010
38. Chateau Branaire Ducru 2001
37. Chateau Leoville Barton 2002
36. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet La Boudroitte 2009
35. Jobard Meursault En Barre 2000
34. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les
Caillerets 2009
33. Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2007
32. Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2007
31. Chateau Palmer 1985
30. Dervieux Rostaing Cote Rotie 1996
29. Dervieux Cote Rotie 1983
28. Louis Jadot Beaune Clos De Ursules 2001
27. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1982
26. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1982
25. Chateau Margaux 1982
24. Chateau Figeac 1980
23. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008
22. Chateau Figeac 1976
21. Coche Dury Meursault 2003
20. Jamet Cote Rotie 1998
19. Noel Verset Cornas 1996
18. Noel Verset Cornas 1995
17. Camile Giroud Corton Le Rognet 2007
16. Camile Giroud Corton Le Clos du Roi 2007
15. Noel Verset Cornas 1990
14. Chateau Latour 1985
13. Mark Haisma Chambertin Clos De Beze 2009
12. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982
11. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes
2007/2010
10. Jamet Cote Rotie 1997
9. Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 2004
8. Chateau Latour 1982
7. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1982
6. Chateau Lafite 1982
5. Chateau Grillet 1989
4. Chateau Lafite 1985
3. Chateau Haut-Brion 1982
2. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982
1. Chave Hermitage 1990
An evening in New York City with Ramon Cabrera
I was a bit worried that we didn’t have enough to drink, what with the proprietor and his staff sniffing around – the idea was to throw them a few tit-bits to get the corkage waived – and the searing, oppressive – hence thirst-inducing - July NYC heat. It was nice to get rained on and summarily drenched when we came out of our second or third bar. It was a fitting end to an evening with Ramon, whose perspicacity is matched by his capacity…to keep going, like one of the mountain climbers in the Tour de France.
PYCM is one of the hottest producers in the Chassagne-Montrachet. With everyone called ‘Colin’ or ‘Morey’ it makes you wonder why you don’t see more club- or web-footed hunchbacks walking around the village because after all they all marry their brothers and sisters. The reason is that they all have kids via their mistresses. I think Pierre Yves is the son of Marc Colin. But I may be wrong. About that.
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 – pale colour, ripe, rich and delicious, mineral notes with perfectly judged acidity, which gives it a certain fleetness of foot.
Jamet Cote Rotie 1998 – funky, animaly, gamey, feral, carnal, rustic, forest floor, minerally, smoke, hickory, grilled meats, cured meats herbs and camphor. Drinking this I was like a pig in shit.
Noel Verset Cornas 1995 – a journey back in to the pre-industrial past. It has a cacophony of farmyard smells, notably lashings of farmyard manure; cowhide, grilled meat, smoke, bonfire and mineral elements, with herbal notes developing over time and a hint of garrigue. One for the Village Green Preservation Society. Better than taking an ice cold shower.
Noel Verset Cornas 1996 – this was a different animal, more tannic and foursquare than the 1995, somewhat grouchy to begin with; dusty, minerally and metallic, metal ores, feldspar and wolframite…Tungsten Carbide…ooohhh….(sorry)… leathery peppery, blood, game, iodine and camphor. Really improves in the glass and benefits from decanting. Beats sitting on a mountain top half-naked thrashing yourself with a birch.
Much as I love old Jasmin and Rostaing, when it comes to Cote Rotie Jamet is hard to beat. He has taken over where Dervieux-Gentaz left off (we don’t include Guigal and his La-Las in this list because they are much too vulgar). Jamet Cote Rotie has everything you could ask for…we had the 1997 down in the rhone and it was similar to the '98 but with a bit more tension. The 1998 is a fantastic wine, but if I could level one criticism it would be that it is remarkably ready to drink and easy to understand; it lacks a bit of mystery and tension – or ‘nervosity’, which the Versets have in spades. For that reason the two Versets are even more thrilling wines, particularly given once we drink our dwindling supplies we will probably never see them again. They are the absolute antithesis of modern commoditized 21st century wines.
PYCM is one of the hottest producers in the Chassagne-Montrachet. With everyone called ‘Colin’ or ‘Morey’ it makes you wonder why you don’t see more club- or web-footed hunchbacks walking around the village because after all they all marry their brothers and sisters. The reason is that they all have kids via their mistresses. I think Pierre Yves is the son of Marc Colin. But I may be wrong. About that.
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 – pale colour, ripe, rich and delicious, mineral notes with perfectly judged acidity, which gives it a certain fleetness of foot.
Jamet Cote Rotie 1998 – funky, animaly, gamey, feral, carnal, rustic, forest floor, minerally, smoke, hickory, grilled meats, cured meats herbs and camphor. Drinking this I was like a pig in shit.
Noel Verset Cornas 1995 – a journey back in to the pre-industrial past. It has a cacophony of farmyard smells, notably lashings of farmyard manure; cowhide, grilled meat, smoke, bonfire and mineral elements, with herbal notes developing over time and a hint of garrigue. One for the Village Green Preservation Society. Better than taking an ice cold shower.
Noel Verset Cornas 1996 – this was a different animal, more tannic and foursquare than the 1995, somewhat grouchy to begin with; dusty, minerally and metallic, metal ores, feldspar and wolframite…Tungsten Carbide…ooohhh….(sorry)… leathery peppery, blood, game, iodine and camphor. Really improves in the glass and benefits from decanting. Beats sitting on a mountain top half-naked thrashing yourself with a birch.
Much as I love old Jasmin and Rostaing, when it comes to Cote Rotie Jamet is hard to beat. He has taken over where Dervieux-Gentaz left off (we don’t include Guigal and his La-Las in this list because they are much too vulgar). Jamet Cote Rotie has everything you could ask for…we had the 1997 down in the rhone and it was similar to the '98 but with a bit more tension. The 1998 is a fantastic wine, but if I could level one criticism it would be that it is remarkably ready to drink and easy to understand; it lacks a bit of mystery and tension – or ‘nervosity’, which the Versets have in spades. For that reason the two Versets are even more thrilling wines, particularly given once we drink our dwindling supplies we will probably never see them again. They are the absolute antithesis of modern commoditized 21st century wines.
Sunday, 27 May 2012
Birthday and other wines
Birthday and recent wines
On Friday 25th May at Boundary
Chave Hermitage Blanc 1993
Fully mature and in a great spot it waxed lyrical with nutty notes, it tasted fresh and vibrant *****
Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1985
From a half this was smooth and refined with subtle notes of cigar box, tobacco, cedar, lead pencil, graphite, autumn leaves and subtle red fruits. Understated and classy it just glides across the palate and finishes long. This has perfect poise and is as good a glass of claret as you will ever encounter. ******(*)
Chateau Latour 1985
More fruity and exuberant than the Lafite, this started off quite stern but really opened beautifully; it has cedar, saddle leather and plenty of ripe exuberant fruit. It is not a behemouth Latour but has plenty of structure and integrity to last for decades. *****(*)
On Thursday 24th May at the Ledbury
Guigal Condrieu La Doriane 2007
First time tried this. It was young and a bit clumsy but clearly has many years to evolve with acacia and honey notes. **(**)
Mullineux Schist Syrah 2010
It ran rings around two decidedly ordinary syrahs from Napa and Hunter. It was very classic northern rhone in style with good balance, acidity and tension, with good quality fruit. A touch hot on the finish but a very complete wine. This sells for £50 which seems ambitious given its roots but there is very little of it. ***(**)
Chave Hermitage 1988
Ruby colour, restrained, elegant, quite lean but very complex with meaty, smokey, gamey, spicey, minerally overtones with a nod to elegance and finesse over power. *****
Hermitage La Chapelle 1990
This example was tight and wound up, despite being a tad too warm. Not showing very much of its huge potential. Was this a slightly off bottle or does this wine need another decade to evolve.?**(***)
On 16th May "right bank" Dinner at RSJ
Chateau Belair 1985
Initially tastes thin an reticent then opens delightfully. A stylidh old school right bank. ****
Chateau Leoville Lascases 1945
This is timeless, long and hard, it is austere and has no charm, but it is immortal, Churchillian and quite thrilling. ****
Chateau Rivesaltes 1930
Lively, with figgy notes. Glorious. ****
Monday, 14 May 2012
A tale of two Versets
Courtesy Richard Katz, I drank these on Friday in the company of someone who, when it comes to charm, looks and brains, is very much at the front of the queue.
Noel Verset Cornas 1990
Translucent garnet; perfumed, sauvage. Mushroom (hint of morello?), decay, cured meats. Smokey overtones, rich, and decadent; secondary opulent raspberry compote and plums; so smooth on the palate; somewhat burgundian, but unique; dignified, cerebral and kaleidoscopic with hints of coffee and menthol; faintly woodsy. A wine which whispers rather than shouts its wares; no wonder it gets lost in a ‘me too’ shouting match; this has poise and gravitas, an intellectual wine.
Noel Verset Cornas 1995
Deep ruby maroon, more opaque, more woodsy, wispy, smoky ‘n’ gamey than the 1990. Bonfire, brine and seaspray; savoury, with spicey sausage, celery, nettles and raspberry notes with grippy, raspy tannins. Somewhat uncouth relative to the 1990, and that becomes more apparent as the night progresses. Not as smooth, nor as poised as the 1990, with some stalky notes. Nonetheless this is a smashing wine.
Both decanted we initially mixed them up but it wasn’t difficult to tell which was which. The 1990 would get lost in a larger comparative tasting, but tasted next to its younger sibling it shows it class. Not that the 1995 was disappointing...it was a captivating example of traditional Cornas from this legendary producer...it was just that the 1990 was at another level.
Noel Verset Cornas 1990
Translucent garnet; perfumed, sauvage. Mushroom (hint of morello?), decay, cured meats. Smokey overtones, rich, and decadent; secondary opulent raspberry compote and plums; so smooth on the palate; somewhat burgundian, but unique; dignified, cerebral and kaleidoscopic with hints of coffee and menthol; faintly woodsy. A wine which whispers rather than shouts its wares; no wonder it gets lost in a ‘me too’ shouting match; this has poise and gravitas, an intellectual wine.
Noel Verset Cornas 1995
Deep ruby maroon, more opaque, more woodsy, wispy, smoky ‘n’ gamey than the 1990. Bonfire, brine and seaspray; savoury, with spicey sausage, celery, nettles and raspberry notes with grippy, raspy tannins. Somewhat uncouth relative to the 1990, and that becomes more apparent as the night progresses. Not as smooth, nor as poised as the 1990, with some stalky notes. Nonetheless this is a smashing wine.
Both decanted we initially mixed them up but it wasn’t difficult to tell which was which. The 1990 would get lost in a larger comparative tasting, but tasted next to its younger sibling it shows it class. Not that the 1995 was disappointing...it was a captivating example of traditional Cornas from this legendary producer...it was just that the 1990 was at another level.
Sunday, 13 May 2012
Figeac, Haisma and PYCM
Three terrific wines this weekend.
Chateau Figeac 1980 - this is officially our favourite Bordeaux chateau for reasons that will never see the light of day. It was glorious with liquid milk chocolate, old leather shoes and various iterations of tobacco, medium weight. Inspired. It is better than the two 1982 Figeacs we had this year.
Mark Haisma Chambertin Clos De Beze 2009 - wild raspberries, red fruits, plums, rich Christmas cake, myriad spices, cinnamon, nutmeg...rich and imperious with marvellous complexity. A superstar of the future.
Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 - had a rich, oily texture, with power and wonderful piercing acidity giving it laser like focus. Stone and citrus fruits with mineral complexity. At a recent dinner it torched two 02 Corton Charlemagnes. It is inspired stuff.
Three triumphant wines on Friday night.
Pictured below is my wine tasting partner, from a previous event chronicled in the thread below.
Chateau Figeac 1980 - this is officially our favourite Bordeaux chateau for reasons that will never see the light of day. It was glorious with liquid milk chocolate, old leather shoes and various iterations of tobacco, medium weight. Inspired. It is better than the two 1982 Figeacs we had this year.
Mark Haisma Chambertin Clos De Beze 2009 - wild raspberries, red fruits, plums, rich Christmas cake, myriad spices, cinnamon, nutmeg...rich and imperious with marvellous complexity. A superstar of the future.
Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 - had a rich, oily texture, with power and wonderful piercing acidity giving it laser like focus. Stone and citrus fruits with mineral complexity. At a recent dinner it torched two 02 Corton Charlemagnes. It is inspired stuff.
Three triumphant wines on Friday night.
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