Three terrific wines this weekend.
Chateau Figeac 1980 - this is officially our favourite Bordeaux chateau for reasons that will never see the light of day. It was glorious with liquid milk chocolate, old leather shoes and various iterations of tobacco, medium weight. Inspired. It is better than the two 1982 Figeacs we had this year.
Mark Haisma Chambertin Clos De Beze 2009 - wild raspberries, red fruits, plums, rich Christmas cake, myriad spices, cinnamon, nutmeg...rich and imperious with marvellous complexity. A superstar of the future.
Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 - had a rich, oily texture, with power and wonderful piercing acidity giving it laser like focus. Stone and citrus fruits with mineral complexity. At a recent dinner it torched two 02 Corton Charlemagnes. It is inspired stuff.
Three triumphant wines on Friday night.
Pictured below is my wine tasting partner, from a previous event chronicled in the thread below.
Sunday, 13 May 2012
Tuesday, 17 April 2012
1982 Bordeaux
Last week a group of us tried a selected batch of 1982s at the Square in London's Mayfair district, which provided a brilliant - yet unobtrusive - menu featuring some philosphically contented white park beef.
Some of the contenders at the pre-tournament weigh in:
Flight one - right banks
Risotto of morels with mimolette and snails
Cheval Blanc - poignant, alluring and thrilling nose of leafy tobacco and decay that carries into a silky, luxurious and expansive palate and a long lingering finish. It is beautifully poised, and never heavy as it glides across the palate. Nothing forced or contrived, this is a perfect glass of mature Cheval Blanc which eclipses the 1983 and 1985.
Figeac - woodsy, greenish, creosote, fruit- shy, improved over the night, over time tobacco and leafy notes. Different to the one we had in Febraury; less thrilling but less flawed. Outclassed by the Cheval Blanc.
Latour A Pomerol - corked, good wine underneath.
Flight two - southern first growths
Haut Brion - impeccable poise and grivatas, understated and restrained with subtle notes of earth, damp gravel, melted road tar, rocks, minerals and spices. While this may come across as shy next to a 1989 it is fully mature and in the perfect place. It is the better wine to drink now.
Margaux - another wine which is a triumph of finesse over power, somewhat reticent it always tends to skulk when subjected to the indignity of comparative tastings. It is subtly fragrant with floral, cedary with tobacco notes. A wine which whispers rather than shouts its wares, it will always be there or thereabouts.
Flight three - Pauillac first growths
Fillet of white park beef with smoked tendons, stuffed shallots and bone marrow
Lafite - purple at the rim like a ten-year old, it was subdued and shy on the nose. Initially not showing much on the palate either it is still cocooned and tightly wound up; but as the evening progresses it slowly starts to express itself. Aristocratic and elegant, it is seamless and smooth with its best years ahead of it. It still needs 10-20 years; by then it will be challenging Latour for the mantle of 'wine of the vintage.'
Mouton - a more expressive wine with soy and coffee bean and a full-bodied, mouth-filling, palate of berries, spice, mocha and tobacco. Marvellously thrilling and exuberant, the tannins are still not fully integrated, nor dispersed. Well stored bottes should continue to improve.
Latour - a powerful, forceful wine, which is approaching full maturity. This has oodles of fruit, cigar box, minerals, slate, graphite...just about everything. The only slight quibble is that it lacks the beguiling complexity and the under-stated elegance of some of the other wines here, nor, perhaps, is it as delicious as the 1990 Latour. But it is undoubtedly a monumental - Churchillian - Latour with its best years ahead of it.
Flight four: Super seconds
Glazed short rib of white park beef with creamed potato and truffle
Leoville-Lascases - pure and young, it continues to age glacially. This example had a purple rim and an integrity and dexterity of pure fruits, and some lead pencil , but not as much as last time. Like the 1986 it is an impeccable wine but it lacks the personality of some of its more illustrious peers.
Pichon Longueville Comtesse De Lalande - a maroon robe, still delicious and gorgeous, but some of the burnt raspberry vibrancy has faded, and this wine now lacks the grip it once had. Maybe this was atypical, but on this showing, this has now been overtaken by Latour in the Great 1982 horse race.
Gruaud-Larose - I expected this to be outclassed by its two super second flight mates, but in some ways it was the more complete wine with arousing beefy overtones with little of the Cordier funk and brett on show. It was tighter and grippier than the Pichon, but more sybaritic than the Lascases.
My pecking order - in reverse order (not including LaP)
10. Figeac
9. Pichon Lalande
8. Leoville Lascases
7. Margaux
6. Gruaud-Larose
5. Latour
4. Mouton
3. Lafite
2. Haut-Brion
1. Cheval Blanc
The group's wotn was Latour, followed by Cheval Blanc and Haut-Brion
We finished of with Chateau d'Yquem 1986, which was a rich burnt rusty orange, with marmalade more than citrus-exotic fruit notes as it enters middle age.
Howard and Maureen...
And no intro required
Some of the contenders at the pre-tournament weigh in:
Flight one - right banks
Risotto of morels with mimolette and snails
Cheval Blanc - poignant, alluring and thrilling nose of leafy tobacco and decay that carries into a silky, luxurious and expansive palate and a long lingering finish. It is beautifully poised, and never heavy as it glides across the palate. Nothing forced or contrived, this is a perfect glass of mature Cheval Blanc which eclipses the 1983 and 1985.
Figeac - woodsy, greenish, creosote, fruit- shy, improved over the night, over time tobacco and leafy notes. Different to the one we had in Febraury; less thrilling but less flawed. Outclassed by the Cheval Blanc.
Latour A Pomerol - corked, good wine underneath.
Flight two - southern first growths
Haut Brion - impeccable poise and grivatas, understated and restrained with subtle notes of earth, damp gravel, melted road tar, rocks, minerals and spices. While this may come across as shy next to a 1989 it is fully mature and in the perfect place. It is the better wine to drink now.
Margaux - another wine which is a triumph of finesse over power, somewhat reticent it always tends to skulk when subjected to the indignity of comparative tastings. It is subtly fragrant with floral, cedary with tobacco notes. A wine which whispers rather than shouts its wares, it will always be there or thereabouts.
Flight three - Pauillac first growths
Fillet of white park beef with smoked tendons, stuffed shallots and bone marrow
Lafite - purple at the rim like a ten-year old, it was subdued and shy on the nose. Initially not showing much on the palate either it is still cocooned and tightly wound up; but as the evening progresses it slowly starts to express itself. Aristocratic and elegant, it is seamless and smooth with its best years ahead of it. It still needs 10-20 years; by then it will be challenging Latour for the mantle of 'wine of the vintage.'
Mouton - a more expressive wine with soy and coffee bean and a full-bodied, mouth-filling, palate of berries, spice, mocha and tobacco. Marvellously thrilling and exuberant, the tannins are still not fully integrated, nor dispersed. Well stored bottes should continue to improve.
Latour - a powerful, forceful wine, which is approaching full maturity. This has oodles of fruit, cigar box, minerals, slate, graphite...just about everything. The only slight quibble is that it lacks the beguiling complexity and the under-stated elegance of some of the other wines here, nor, perhaps, is it as delicious as the 1990 Latour. But it is undoubtedly a monumental - Churchillian - Latour with its best years ahead of it.
Flight four: Super seconds
Glazed short rib of white park beef with creamed potato and truffle
Leoville-Lascases - pure and young, it continues to age glacially. This example had a purple rim and an integrity and dexterity of pure fruits, and some lead pencil , but not as much as last time. Like the 1986 it is an impeccable wine but it lacks the personality of some of its more illustrious peers.
Pichon Longueville Comtesse De Lalande - a maroon robe, still delicious and gorgeous, but some of the burnt raspberry vibrancy has faded, and this wine now lacks the grip it once had. Maybe this was atypical, but on this showing, this has now been overtaken by Latour in the Great 1982 horse race.
Gruaud-Larose - I expected this to be outclassed by its two super second flight mates, but in some ways it was the more complete wine with arousing beefy overtones with little of the Cordier funk and brett on show. It was tighter and grippier than the Pichon, but more sybaritic than the Lascases.
My pecking order - in reverse order (not including LaP)
10. Figeac
9. Pichon Lalande
8. Leoville Lascases
7. Margaux
6. Gruaud-Larose
5. Latour
4. Mouton
3. Lafite
2. Haut-Brion
1. Cheval Blanc
The group's wotn was Latour, followed by Cheval Blanc and Haut-Brion
We finished of with Chateau d'Yquem 1986, which was a rich burnt rusty orange, with marmalade more than citrus-exotic fruit notes as it enters middle age.
Howard and Maureen...
And no intro required
Sunday, 8 April 2012
My top wines of 2012
Top 50 wines so far in 2012
50. Dr Pauly Berweiler Bernkasteler Bastube am Docterberg Riesling Spatlese 2001 - longwinded but worth it
49. Jadot Clos Saint Denis 1996 - petillance
48. Burgaud Cote Rotie 1988 - off-piste
47. Chateau Rausan Segla 2001 - sweet
46. Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnere 2002 - evolving as we expect
45. Condrieu Domaine Vernay 2004 - well-judged weight and aged
44. Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Le Clos 2008 - full
43. Jean Grivot Nuits-Saint Georges Les Boudots 1993 - shy
42. Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux 1999 - poised
41. Allemand Cornas Reynard 1994 - carnal
40. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1982 - bacon sarnie
39. Chateau Figeac 1982 - thrilling showing cracks
38. Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2001 - modern classic
37. Jouard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains 2004 - tight joyful
36. Denis Mortet Chambolle Musigny Les Beaux Bruns 1993 - haunting
35. Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 2000 - polished article
34. Dauvissat Chablis Le Clos 2000 - bumptious
33. Raveneau Chablis Foret 1996 - hints at greatness
32. Chateau Rieussec 1999 - dark horse
31. Chateau Figeac 2000 - delivers ignore the naysayers
30. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 2001 - thinking woman's cdlr/ponsot
29. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984 - never disappoints
28. Clape Cornas 1991 -
27. Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2005 - iron delight
26. Maurice Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Hospices De Beaune 2002 -
25. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1993
24. Chateau Margaux 1985 - restrained gravitas
23. Gonon Saint Joseph 1990 - revelation
22. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Boudroitte 2007 - hedonism
21. Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan 2000 - brooding brilliance
20. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996 - lead pencil
19. Fourrier Griottes Chambertin 1997
18. Denis Bachelet Charmes Chambertin 1998
17. Louis Jadot Corton 1995
16. Tattinger Comtes De Champagne Blancs de Blancs 1988
15. Dom Perignon 1990
14. Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2002
13. Chateau Lafite 1981
12. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1983
11. Noel Verset Cornas trilogy 1989/90/91
10. Chateau Grillet 2005
9. Noel Verset Cornas 1995
8. Fonseca Port 1985
7. Chateau Rieussec 2001
6. Domaine Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1999
5. Domaine De Lambrays Clos De Lambrays 1997
4. Chateau Palmer 1986
3. Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf De Papes Cuvee Marie Beurrier 1988
2. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990
1. Gentaz Dervieux Cote Rotie 1991
50. Dr Pauly Berweiler Bernkasteler Bastube am Docterberg Riesling Spatlese 2001 - longwinded but worth it
49. Jadot Clos Saint Denis 1996 - petillance
48. Burgaud Cote Rotie 1988 - off-piste
47. Chateau Rausan Segla 2001 - sweet
46. Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnere 2002 - evolving as we expect
45. Condrieu Domaine Vernay 2004 - well-judged weight and aged
44. Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Le Clos 2008 - full
43. Jean Grivot Nuits-Saint Georges Les Boudots 1993 - shy
42. Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux 1999 - poised
41. Allemand Cornas Reynard 1994 - carnal
40. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1982 - bacon sarnie
39. Chateau Figeac 1982 - thrilling showing cracks
38. Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2001 - modern classic
37. Jouard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains 2004 - tight joyful
36. Denis Mortet Chambolle Musigny Les Beaux Bruns 1993 - haunting
35. Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 2000 - polished article
34. Dauvissat Chablis Le Clos 2000 - bumptious
33. Raveneau Chablis Foret 1996 - hints at greatness
32. Chateau Rieussec 1999 - dark horse
31. Chateau Figeac 2000 - delivers ignore the naysayers
30. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 2001 - thinking woman's cdlr/ponsot
29. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984 - never disappoints
28. Clape Cornas 1991 -
27. Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2005 - iron delight
26. Maurice Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Hospices De Beaune 2002 -
25. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1993
24. Chateau Margaux 1985 - restrained gravitas
23. Gonon Saint Joseph 1990 - revelation
22. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Boudroitte 2007 - hedonism
21. Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan 2000 - brooding brilliance
20. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996 - lead pencil
19. Fourrier Griottes Chambertin 1997
18. Denis Bachelet Charmes Chambertin 1998
17. Louis Jadot Corton 1995
16. Tattinger Comtes De Champagne Blancs de Blancs 1988
15. Dom Perignon 1990
14. Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2002
13. Chateau Lafite 1981
12. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1983
11. Noel Verset Cornas trilogy 1989/90/91
10. Chateau Grillet 2005
9. Noel Verset Cornas 1995
8. Fonseca Port 1985
7. Chateau Rieussec 2001
6. Domaine Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1999
5. Domaine De Lambrays Clos De Lambrays 1997
4. Chateau Palmer 1986
3. Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf De Papes Cuvee Marie Beurrier 1988
2. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990
1. Gentaz Dervieux Cote Rotie 1991
Sunday, 25 March 2012
A Northern Rhone Odyssey
Maureen organised a brilliant northern rhone dinner last Thursday, with a star-studded line up of rare and esoteric wines, connoisseurs and relics...
We started off on a high note...
Chateau Grillet, 2005
Pale but radiant; exceptionally light on its feet with subtle stone fruits, igneous slate and minerals; beguiling and complex; its firm acidic backbone will allow this to age effortlessly. A wine with impeccable balance and dexterity.
Condrieu ‘Coteau de Vernon’ Domaine Vernay 2004
Mature, aromatic with fine texture, honey-blossom, acacia and apricots.
On to the first flight of reds, Cote Roties:
Burgaud Cote Rotie 1988
Off-piste; meaty, carnal, brawny, foursquare, sous-bois; verdant.
Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990 en magnum
Gamey and earthy this wine displays a surreal symbiosis of floral femininity and masculine backbone and punch. Intricately woven and kaleidoscopic, it has an ethereal levity and a pleasing tension with subtle notes of Madagascar cocoa, wolframite, mysterious dark fruits, Mediterranean olives, wet fox, iodine and black and white pepper.
This is perhaps the quintessential expression of northern rhone and the syrah grape. It was deservedly the wine of the night.
Jamet Cote Rotie 1988
Brutal, marauding and powerful, but somewhat lacking in elegance compared to the Jasmin; masculine, brawny and chewy with lashings of bacon fat and smatterings of olives/tapenade, leather and Mediterranean herbs. A bit of VA permeated this wine, and the finish wasn't smooth. This bottle was not as good as one we tasted in April 2011.
Noel Verset Cornas 1989
Delicate, ethereal and earthy with leather, bramble and sour cherries; it had gamey, bacon notes, tobacco, mocha and mineral, impeccably balanced. Transcendental.
Noel Verset Cornas 1990
Initially quite closed, and somewhat curmudgeonly this had hints of autumn leaves, earth, iodine, feldspar, smoke, bacon fat, and animal hides. An intellectual wine which mesmerises you as it metamorphoses with its intricately woven tapestry, Delphic personality and cognitive dissonance.
Noel Verset Cornas 1991
Complex, animal hide, earthy and spicy. A perfectly judged expression of mature syrah, another cerebral wine, which weaves its charms with an almost Kafka-esque reflexivity.
August Clape Cornas 1991
A much more expressive nose of mushroom, olives, tapenade, flowers, machine oil, tungsten carbide and mahogany; plummy and beefy, St-James's Street tobacconist. Lithe and svelte on the palate.
Allemand Cornas Reynard 94
Masculine and fruit forward, beefy cow hide, savoury, minerally, and olive/tapenade. This young wine lacked the subtlety and complexity of some of the others but was thrillingly raw and intense.
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1982
Gamey, spicy, dried flowers, opaque. Bacon fat, dried herbs, sous-bois, umami, rose petals, Romeo y Julieta robusto. Dried plums and orange peel, savoury with lively acidity but mellow at the same time.
This dinner would not have been what it was without the generosity of Richard Katz the North London Northern Rhone Maestro, who could not attend in the flesh but was with us spiritually.
We started off on a high note...
Chateau Grillet, 2005
Pale but radiant; exceptionally light on its feet with subtle stone fruits, igneous slate and minerals; beguiling and complex; its firm acidic backbone will allow this to age effortlessly. A wine with impeccable balance and dexterity.
Condrieu ‘Coteau de Vernon’ Domaine Vernay 2004
Mature, aromatic with fine texture, honey-blossom, acacia and apricots.
On to the first flight of reds, Cote Roties:
Burgaud Cote Rotie 1988
Off-piste; meaty, carnal, brawny, foursquare, sous-bois; verdant.
Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990 en magnum
Gamey and earthy this wine displays a surreal symbiosis of floral femininity and masculine backbone and punch. Intricately woven and kaleidoscopic, it has an ethereal levity and a pleasing tension with subtle notes of Madagascar cocoa, wolframite, mysterious dark fruits, Mediterranean olives, wet fox, iodine and black and white pepper.
This is perhaps the quintessential expression of northern rhone and the syrah grape. It was deservedly the wine of the night.
Jamet Cote Rotie 1988
Brutal, marauding and powerful, but somewhat lacking in elegance compared to the Jasmin; masculine, brawny and chewy with lashings of bacon fat and smatterings of olives/tapenade, leather and Mediterranean herbs. A bit of VA permeated this wine, and the finish wasn't smooth. This bottle was not as good as one we tasted in April 2011.
Noel Verset Cornas 1989
Delicate, ethereal and earthy with leather, bramble and sour cherries; it had gamey, bacon notes, tobacco, mocha and mineral, impeccably balanced. Transcendental.
Noel Verset Cornas 1990
Initially quite closed, and somewhat curmudgeonly this had hints of autumn leaves, earth, iodine, feldspar, smoke, bacon fat, and animal hides. An intellectual wine which mesmerises you as it metamorphoses with its intricately woven tapestry, Delphic personality and cognitive dissonance.
Noel Verset Cornas 1991
Complex, animal hide, earthy and spicy. A perfectly judged expression of mature syrah, another cerebral wine, which weaves its charms with an almost Kafka-esque reflexivity.
August Clape Cornas 1991
A much more expressive nose of mushroom, olives, tapenade, flowers, machine oil, tungsten carbide and mahogany; plummy and beefy, St-James's Street tobacconist. Lithe and svelte on the palate.
Allemand Cornas Reynard 94
Masculine and fruit forward, beefy cow hide, savoury, minerally, and olive/tapenade. This young wine lacked the subtlety and complexity of some of the others but was thrillingly raw and intense.
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1982
Gamey, spicy, dried flowers, opaque. Bacon fat, dried herbs, sous-bois, umami, rose petals, Romeo y Julieta robusto. Dried plums and orange peel, savoury with lively acidity but mellow at the same time.
This dinner would not have been what it was without the generosity of Richard Katz the North London Northern Rhone Maestro, who could not attend in the flesh but was with us spiritually.
Tuesday, 20 March 2012
Some Bordeaux and non-Bordeaux wines
From the last month or two
Bordeaux wines
Chateau Chasse Spleen 1981
Still elegant and fresh with hints of strawberries and plums, tobacco, cedar and minerals. Super bottle. Parker rating 79 – my rating 91
Chateau Giscours 1982
Fully mature, but vibrant and rich with berry, earth, meat and tobacco notes. Splendid wine. Parker rating 86 – my rating 93
Chateau Lafite 1981
Very muted at first, then it came out of its shell; maroon, medium-bodied, stylish, complex with tobacco, cedar and cigar box; fresh and elegant, refined palate and a long finish; really starting to hit its stride. Parker rating 93 – my rating 94
Chateau Margaux 1985
Tasted next to Opus One, a tortoise next to a hare. This was really slow out of the blocks as if it had been rudely awaken from a deep slumber. Then it started to get its act together and strut its stuff. But it is still a remarkably backward wine and quite closed up; it is dense, powerful and brooding for the vintage but in an unobtrusive way; it has all the hallmarks of a classic well-proportioned Margaux. Parker rating 95 – my rating 93 ++
Chateau Figeac 1982
Fully mature with notes of earth, gravel, tobacco and compost, which is really thrilling; this particular example was a bit cracked on the finish which suggested it didn’t have much time left. Parker rating 92 – my rating 93
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1993
Cherry menthol, eucalyptus, tobacco, green tea and green peppers; spicey, complex with some gamey notes. Superb wine. Parker rating 86 – my rating 94
Chateau Trotanoy 1999
Lush plumy and tobacco notes, this is still young and fairly one dimensional. It should gain in complexity over time, however. Parker rating - Parker rating 89-92 my rating 89+
Chateau Branaire Ducru 2001
Quite a modern and smooth wine for this estate but it really delivers the goods; some oak, red and black fruits with cedar with some earthy-gravelly notes. Excellent wine. Parker rating 89-91 – my rating 92
Chateau Batailley 2001
Still on the young side a pleasant Pauillac true to its appellation. Reasonable fruit but not particularly complex...more of a luncheon claret really. Parker rating 87-88 – my rating 88.
Le Dome (St-Emilion) 2004
Easy to drink, boring and one dimensional. Like a $20 Californian merlot. Parker rating 90-92 – my rating 85.
Chateau La Tour De By, Cuvee Prestige 2000
A wine only made in certain vintages this is still remarkably austere, closed up, tannic, and conspicuously lacking in fruit...as if to say ‘we don’t do fruit here.’ A throw back to the old days perhaps? Given its curmudgeonly state it does need food. Guess I should bury the magnum of this somewhere. Parker rating n/a – my rating 87+
Non-Bordeaux wines
Dom Perignon 1990
This wine is in a sweet spot. Now displaying delightful strawberries and cream notes, and luxurious and silky on the palate. Dream champagne. 96
Fourrier Griottes Chambertin 1997
Dark, rich, with minerals and cherry; good structure and purity; fine length on the palate. 93
Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984
A wine that never fails to impress, regardless of what else is on the table. Delightful cherry, smokey, mineral aromas. 93
Opus One 2002
Pure seductive cabernet fruit out of the gate, low tannins and acidity; the charms quickly wear off and it is a bit one dimensional. Just fine for well heeled divas. 89
Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2005
Cool pinot fruit from Mornington Peninsular in Victoria, this has iron & mineral notes and herb (dill) nuances. One of the best new world pinots you will find anywhere. 94
Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte 2007
A sultry, utterly delicious and very seductive chassagne; has good acidity and balance however. 93
Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St-Jean 2007
Much more austere and structured than the Boudroittes, less pleasurable. 91
Jouard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain 2004
A hypothetical mix combining the best of the above two wines and not a hint of pox. 93
Bordeaux wines
Chateau Chasse Spleen 1981
Still elegant and fresh with hints of strawberries and plums, tobacco, cedar and minerals. Super bottle. Parker rating 79 – my rating 91
Chateau Giscours 1982
Fully mature, but vibrant and rich with berry, earth, meat and tobacco notes. Splendid wine. Parker rating 86 – my rating 93
Chateau Lafite 1981
Very muted at first, then it came out of its shell; maroon, medium-bodied, stylish, complex with tobacco, cedar and cigar box; fresh and elegant, refined palate and a long finish; really starting to hit its stride. Parker rating 93 – my rating 94
Chateau Margaux 1985
Tasted next to Opus One, a tortoise next to a hare. This was really slow out of the blocks as if it had been rudely awaken from a deep slumber. Then it started to get its act together and strut its stuff. But it is still a remarkably backward wine and quite closed up; it is dense, powerful and brooding for the vintage but in an unobtrusive way; it has all the hallmarks of a classic well-proportioned Margaux. Parker rating 95 – my rating 93 ++
Chateau Figeac 1982
Fully mature with notes of earth, gravel, tobacco and compost, which is really thrilling; this particular example was a bit cracked on the finish which suggested it didn’t have much time left. Parker rating 92 – my rating 93
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1993
Cherry menthol, eucalyptus, tobacco, green tea and green peppers; spicey, complex with some gamey notes. Superb wine. Parker rating 86 – my rating 94
Chateau Trotanoy 1999
Lush plumy and tobacco notes, this is still young and fairly one dimensional. It should gain in complexity over time, however. Parker rating - Parker rating 89-92 my rating 89+
Chateau Branaire Ducru 2001
Quite a modern and smooth wine for this estate but it really delivers the goods; some oak, red and black fruits with cedar with some earthy-gravelly notes. Excellent wine. Parker rating 89-91 – my rating 92
Chateau Batailley 2001
Still on the young side a pleasant Pauillac true to its appellation. Reasonable fruit but not particularly complex...more of a luncheon claret really. Parker rating 87-88 – my rating 88.
Le Dome (St-Emilion) 2004
Easy to drink, boring and one dimensional. Like a $20 Californian merlot. Parker rating 90-92 – my rating 85.
Chateau La Tour De By, Cuvee Prestige 2000
A wine only made in certain vintages this is still remarkably austere, closed up, tannic, and conspicuously lacking in fruit...as if to say ‘we don’t do fruit here.’ A throw back to the old days perhaps? Given its curmudgeonly state it does need food. Guess I should bury the magnum of this somewhere. Parker rating n/a – my rating 87+
Non-Bordeaux wines
Dom Perignon 1990
This wine is in a sweet spot. Now displaying delightful strawberries and cream notes, and luxurious and silky on the palate. Dream champagne. 96
Fourrier Griottes Chambertin 1997
Dark, rich, with minerals and cherry; good structure and purity; fine length on the palate. 93
Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984
A wine that never fails to impress, regardless of what else is on the table. Delightful cherry, smokey, mineral aromas. 93
Opus One 2002
Pure seductive cabernet fruit out of the gate, low tannins and acidity; the charms quickly wear off and it is a bit one dimensional. Just fine for well heeled divas. 89
Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2005
Cool pinot fruit from Mornington Peninsular in Victoria, this has iron & mineral notes and herb (dill) nuances. One of the best new world pinots you will find anywhere. 94
Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte 2007
A sultry, utterly delicious and very seductive chassagne; has good acidity and balance however. 93
Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St-Jean 2007
Much more austere and structured than the Boudroittes, less pleasurable. 91
Jouard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain 2004
A hypothetical mix combining the best of the above two wines and not a hint of pox. 93
Wednesday, 22 February 2012
More February wine drinking
It is looking like I might be going back to work soon (probably early March), so I have been packing in a few wine lunches and dinners. I also got my cellar sorted out, which is a result. I will still attend some events, but less frequently. Big events on the horizon are Maureen's northern rhone dinner on 22nd March, where we hope to get at least three mature Noel Verset Cornases. Then on 12th April I am hosting a 1982 Bordeaux dinner to mark the 30th anniversary of this esteemed vintage. Is it all it is cracked up to be? We have many of the most reputable wines, including all of the first growths, so I can't wait to find out.
Last Friday my good friend Jeremy organised a burgundy lunch at La Trompette, one of Nigel Platts-Martin's establishments and therefore one of the best restaurants in London. And we only paid £50 a head for a four course meal. We started off with Joseph Perrier Cuvee Josephine (after my daughter) 2002 (she, however is a 1997 vintage). Very good chunky champagne, needs more time. In the first flight we had:
Denis Mortet Chambolle Musigny Beaux Bruns 1993 (wine 2)
This was quite restrained earthy and mushroomy for a Chambolle; quite an austere style in line with the vintage and perhaps the grower. I liked it a lot.
Thomas Bassot Griottes Chambertin 1970 (wine 1)
The original number one Jean Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Brulees was corked. This number 1 smelt like a number 2. It is the shittiest wine I have ever smelt. It didnt just smell like a toilet, but a freshly laid turd. That is a compliment by the way. It was cloudy as anything but still holding up.
Then on to the next flight:
Jean Grivot Nuits Saint Georges Les Boudots (3) - this was reticent but had a delightful shy perfume and a lovely texture.
Louis Jadot Clos Saint Denis 1996 (4) - my contribution - this was quite rustic bumptious and chewy, with just a hint of 'petillance.' It has a nice core of rch, ripe berry fruit. Much more forward that the last one I tried.
Louis Jadot Clos Saint Denis 1998 (5) - much rounder, smoother and more polished than the 1996, and a markedly different wine. Very good but I liked the 1996 slightly more.
Last flight
Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1998 - the real experts around the table - Jeremy and Tom - were very impressed by this. I remember it being quite taut and a bit tannic, but really well poised. Probably a wine that will give more pleasure in the future.
Louis Jadot Charmes Chambertin 1999 - quite similar in fact to the 1996 Clos saint Denis and purchased from the same place (WH Frank in Long Island, New York).
Rene Engel Echezeaux 1999 - this was very wound up and tight - it was the most backward wine here.
To finish off:
Fonseca Port 1985 - this was a fabulous bottle of Port from my favourite Port producer. In fact this vies with the 1977 Fonseca for the best port I have ever drunk (never tasted '63 Nacional). Without taking anything away from the burgundies it was wine of the day.
Last night Jeremy organised a 'macro dinner' - where a group of us meet up - ostensibly - to discuss economics and markets: and to taste some bally good wines as well.
To kick off we had a Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese, really impressive cut and thrust here. The burgundies didnt impress: a 1978 Icard Savigny Berry Bros bottling, it was still alive but all over the place and not in a good way. It did improve but I think the Algerian rotgot stole the show. A Perrot Minot Morey Saint Denis Les Riottes 1999 was tough and a bit charmless.
The rhone flight was very good with Jasmin's 1984 Cote Rotie edging Chapoutier's 1983 Hermitage Sizeranne; both very good examples of mature northern rhone - not often you see that. On the Bordeaux flight we had two 2000s - Vieux Chateau Certan and La Tour Haut Brion - and one 2001 - Rausan Segla. The Segla was delightful, but surprisingly sweet on the attack. The LTHB was also sweet on the attack - disconcertingly so, as if it had been souped up - otherwise it wasn't showing anything. Neither was the VCC but the class really shone through on this one. You will need to be very patient. We finished off with 1999 Rieussec. Sheer delight.
Last Friday my good friend Jeremy organised a burgundy lunch at La Trompette, one of Nigel Platts-Martin's establishments and therefore one of the best restaurants in London. And we only paid £50 a head for a four course meal. We started off with Joseph Perrier Cuvee Josephine (after my daughter) 2002 (she, however is a 1997 vintage). Very good chunky champagne, needs more time. In the first flight we had:
Denis Mortet Chambolle Musigny Beaux Bruns 1993 (wine 2)
This was quite restrained earthy and mushroomy for a Chambolle; quite an austere style in line with the vintage and perhaps the grower. I liked it a lot.
Thomas Bassot Griottes Chambertin 1970 (wine 1)
The original number one Jean Grivot Vosne Romanee Les Brulees was corked. This number 1 smelt like a number 2. It is the shittiest wine I have ever smelt. It didnt just smell like a toilet, but a freshly laid turd. That is a compliment by the way. It was cloudy as anything but still holding up.
Then on to the next flight:
Jean Grivot Nuits Saint Georges Les Boudots (3) - this was reticent but had a delightful shy perfume and a lovely texture.
Louis Jadot Clos Saint Denis 1996 (4) - my contribution - this was quite rustic bumptious and chewy, with just a hint of 'petillance.' It has a nice core of rch, ripe berry fruit. Much more forward that the last one I tried.
Louis Jadot Clos Saint Denis 1998 (5) - much rounder, smoother and more polished than the 1996, and a markedly different wine. Very good but I liked the 1996 slightly more.
Last flight
Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1998 - the real experts around the table - Jeremy and Tom - were very impressed by this. I remember it being quite taut and a bit tannic, but really well poised. Probably a wine that will give more pleasure in the future.
Louis Jadot Charmes Chambertin 1999 - quite similar in fact to the 1996 Clos saint Denis and purchased from the same place (WH Frank in Long Island, New York).
Rene Engel Echezeaux 1999 - this was very wound up and tight - it was the most backward wine here.
To finish off:
Fonseca Port 1985 - this was a fabulous bottle of Port from my favourite Port producer. In fact this vies with the 1977 Fonseca for the best port I have ever drunk (never tasted '63 Nacional). Without taking anything away from the burgundies it was wine of the day.
Last night Jeremy organised a 'macro dinner' - where a group of us meet up - ostensibly - to discuss economics and markets: and to taste some bally good wines as well.
To kick off we had a Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese, really impressive cut and thrust here. The burgundies didnt impress: a 1978 Icard Savigny Berry Bros bottling, it was still alive but all over the place and not in a good way. It did improve but I think the Algerian rotgot stole the show. A Perrot Minot Morey Saint Denis Les Riottes 1999 was tough and a bit charmless.
The rhone flight was very good with Jasmin's 1984 Cote Rotie edging Chapoutier's 1983 Hermitage Sizeranne; both very good examples of mature northern rhone - not often you see that. On the Bordeaux flight we had two 2000s - Vieux Chateau Certan and La Tour Haut Brion - and one 2001 - Rausan Segla. The Segla was delightful, but surprisingly sweet on the attack. The LTHB was also sweet on the attack - disconcertingly so, as if it had been souped up - otherwise it wasn't showing anything. Neither was the VCC but the class really shone through on this one. You will need to be very patient. We finished off with 1999 Rieussec. Sheer delight.
Monday, 6 February 2012
Winter drinking round up
Since the last post on my 100 top wines of 2011, I realised I omitted Chateau Trotanoy 2001, which would have probably come in the top 85, if not 75. Also 2012 has started off quite well with a lot of good wines.
Wine of the year so far is this (the one on the right):
It is a Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf Du Pape, Cuvee Marie Beurrier 1988. I really don't usually care for chateauneuf du pape, dominated as it usually is by the grenache grape (the ugly stepchild of syrah?)...but this was absolutely delicious...the best chateauneuf I have ever tried...unfortunately it costs the earth (about £300 a bottle I think), no doubt because an influential and esteemed critic drew the same conclusion.
Next to it on the left was Grand Puy Lacoste 1996, a wine with mixed - but mostly good - reviews, which was as hard as nails when I last tried it way back in 2004. Happily this wine has evolved splendidly. It is still of course on the young side but oh-so promising. It is dense and powerful in the mid-palate with lashings of lead pencil...something they don't do in California or Australia. I wouldn't be surprised if this is showing better than the '95, another superb GPL.
The Chateau Palmer half in the picture was the 1986, which was strangely mte and off form.
That was a couple of weeks ago, and going back to New Year's Eve I spent it with good friends Maureen, Laurence and Jeremy. This is what we drank between us.
It was difficult to chose between the three red wines...the L'Evangile 1989 (is that you Godot?) has nearly arrived but is not quite there yet, and the Landonne was splendid (this got included in the top 100, 60 actually, see below)...and the Griottes was as good as the Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1997, also in the 2011 top list.
Privacy reasons prevents me from publishing photos of any of the other participants on the night.
But talking of Ponsot one of the highlights was the Ponsot vs Dujac Clos De La Roche dinner on Australia Day (26th Jan) at the Square in London's swanky Mayfair district. Being part Australian that was unpatriotic of me, especially as there was an Australia 'Wimps' lunch at the Ledbury that day.
The wines did not disappoint but this was one occasion where the food outshone the wine, magnificent as both were...for a good write up with the food dishes see Maureen's write up here:
http://www.wine-source.com/winesource-collection-blog.html
The champagnes were equally accomplished, and we started off with the 97s and 00s...the 97 Ponsot has breeding, restraint, tension and complexity next to the relatively simple, albeit delicious, Dujac. The 2000 Ponsot was strangely a bit cooked, while the 2000 Dujac was a little warm but more balanced. One-one.
The 95s were equally poor by comparison, expectedly for the Ponsot but unexpectedly for the Dujac, and the 98s were made of sterner stuff. Not as elegant as the 97s, I gave the nod to Ponsot. Three-two Ponsot.
Then we had the infamous white wine intermission. Two very good wines, which were not taken seriously. It was a disaster drinking them in the intermission. But Ceritas Porter Bass Chardonnay, woefully misunderstood by the crowd and a PYCM Chassagne Caillerets 08, which was tight but promising.
Then we had the best flight of the evening...99s, Ponsot 01 and the 02 Dujacs, CdlR and Clos Saint Denis. The CSD had wonderful CSD terroir, but I think the wine of the flight was probably the 99 Ponsot, which was powerful and authoratitive. The 01 Ponsot was the surprise package, and out of all these wines, THE wine to buy given that the 99s and 02s are priced to kill these days. The 1989s and 1991s in the last flight were not very memorable...one of them was a bit oxidised.
I digress. Both good producers, but Ponsot is more cerebral and complex. In short, it is the better producer; but, I think, not quite up to DRC and Rousseau. Dujac is rather simple and crowd pleasing in comparison to Ponsot. It is a wine for rich Sunday drinkers who don't want to think about their wines.
Four hundred and forty-one quid for an '09 Dujac CdlR according to Decanter magasine...tcchh; curr...but for 12 or 13 hundred quid you can pick up a case of Ponsot CdlR '01. That is not terrible value for money for a good - actually excellent - burgundy grand cru producer.
Another super wine that rates a mention is this little possum:
Maurice Drouhin's Beaune 1er Cru Hospices De Beaune 2002, it was magical in the small format. Produced for Albert Roux at the Waterside Inn, it was surplus to requirements, but he should have held on to it.
Last Thursday night I had dinner with Jono, who runs a current account deficit of 95% of his GDP (having said that I am at 100%)...it was New England cold, with wind chill...as we trudged up Ladbrook Grove with eight bottles of Joseph Perrier Cuvee Josephine...to an Iraqi gaff up the street at the harbourside.
I had been clearing out my stash when I came across a bin soiled bottle, which I knew to be either Cheval Blanc 82 or 83 - I could tell by the capsule - so I brought it along. The crumbly cork confirmed it was the 83 and it was simply brilliant. Earthy, mushroomy and complex it was very mature. Mature Cheval Blanc. It doesn't get much better. Jono's Lamarche Grands Echezeaux was delicious and stayed in touch the whole night while the 1996 Sandrone Cannubis Boschis was left in the cold. It is a modern wine, which isn't ready; but I am not sure it ever will be.
Then on Friday night M and J and I had these, plus my Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999, a young beauty.
The 2000 Hermitage La Chapelle was disappointingly simple...a charming northern rhone but you expect more even at the knock down price of £54. The Jadot Corton 1995 was in a different league. It takes no prisoners, and has a magnificent tension and typicite.
Wines of the year so far, excluidng NYE wines, are dominated by burgundy:
1. Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Marie Beurrrier 1988
2. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1983
3. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1999
4. Dujac Clos St-Denis 2002
5. Jadot Corton 1995
6. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996
7. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 2001
8. Lamarche Grands- Echezeaux 2004
9. Maurice Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Hospices De Beaune 2002
10. Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Le Clos 2008
Wines I have bought recently:
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Bourgogne Blanc 2010
Pierre Yves Colin Morey St Aubin La Chateniere 2010
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008
Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Le Clos 2008
Jean Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2010
Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée 2009
Noel Verset Cornas 1990
Noel Verset Cornas 1995
Chateau Belair, St-Emilion 1995
Chateau Belair, St-Emilion 1998
Chateau Berliquet, St-Emilion 2001
Chateau Palmer, Margaux, 1999
As the Greeks say
Ya sus!
Wine of the year so far is this (the one on the right):
It is a Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf Du Pape, Cuvee Marie Beurrier 1988. I really don't usually care for chateauneuf du pape, dominated as it usually is by the grenache grape (the ugly stepchild of syrah?)...but this was absolutely delicious...the best chateauneuf I have ever tried...unfortunately it costs the earth (about £300 a bottle I think), no doubt because an influential and esteemed critic drew the same conclusion.
Next to it on the left was Grand Puy Lacoste 1996, a wine with mixed - but mostly good - reviews, which was as hard as nails when I last tried it way back in 2004. Happily this wine has evolved splendidly. It is still of course on the young side but oh-so promising. It is dense and powerful in the mid-palate with lashings of lead pencil...something they don't do in California or Australia. I wouldn't be surprised if this is showing better than the '95, another superb GPL.
The Chateau Palmer half in the picture was the 1986, which was strangely mte and off form.
That was a couple of weeks ago, and going back to New Year's Eve I spent it with good friends Maureen, Laurence and Jeremy. This is what we drank between us.
It was difficult to chose between the three red wines...the L'Evangile 1989 (is that you Godot?) has nearly arrived but is not quite there yet, and the Landonne was splendid (this got included in the top 100, 60 actually, see below)...and the Griottes was as good as the Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1997, also in the 2011 top list.
Privacy reasons prevents me from publishing photos of any of the other participants on the night.
But talking of Ponsot one of the highlights was the Ponsot vs Dujac Clos De La Roche dinner on Australia Day (26th Jan) at the Square in London's swanky Mayfair district. Being part Australian that was unpatriotic of me, especially as there was an Australia 'Wimps' lunch at the Ledbury that day.
The wines did not disappoint but this was one occasion where the food outshone the wine, magnificent as both were...for a good write up with the food dishes see Maureen's write up here:
http://www.wine-source.com/winesource-collection-blog.html
The champagnes were equally accomplished, and we started off with the 97s and 00s...the 97 Ponsot has breeding, restraint, tension and complexity next to the relatively simple, albeit delicious, Dujac. The 2000 Ponsot was strangely a bit cooked, while the 2000 Dujac was a little warm but more balanced. One-one.
The 95s were equally poor by comparison, expectedly for the Ponsot but unexpectedly for the Dujac, and the 98s were made of sterner stuff. Not as elegant as the 97s, I gave the nod to Ponsot. Three-two Ponsot.
Then we had the infamous white wine intermission. Two very good wines, which were not taken seriously. It was a disaster drinking them in the intermission. But Ceritas Porter Bass Chardonnay, woefully misunderstood by the crowd and a PYCM Chassagne Caillerets 08, which was tight but promising.
Then we had the best flight of the evening...99s, Ponsot 01 and the 02 Dujacs, CdlR and Clos Saint Denis. The CSD had wonderful CSD terroir, but I think the wine of the flight was probably the 99 Ponsot, which was powerful and authoratitive. The 01 Ponsot was the surprise package, and out of all these wines, THE wine to buy given that the 99s and 02s are priced to kill these days. The 1989s and 1991s in the last flight were not very memorable...one of them was a bit oxidised.
I digress. Both good producers, but Ponsot is more cerebral and complex. In short, it is the better producer; but, I think, not quite up to DRC and Rousseau. Dujac is rather simple and crowd pleasing in comparison to Ponsot. It is a wine for rich Sunday drinkers who don't want to think about their wines.
Four hundred and forty-one quid for an '09 Dujac CdlR according to Decanter magasine...tcchh; curr...but for 12 or 13 hundred quid you can pick up a case of Ponsot CdlR '01. That is not terrible value for money for a good - actually excellent - burgundy grand cru producer.
Another super wine that rates a mention is this little possum:
Maurice Drouhin's Beaune 1er Cru Hospices De Beaune 2002, it was magical in the small format. Produced for Albert Roux at the Waterside Inn, it was surplus to requirements, but he should have held on to it.
Last Thursday night I had dinner with Jono, who runs a current account deficit of 95% of his GDP (having said that I am at 100%)...it was New England cold, with wind chill...as we trudged up Ladbrook Grove with eight bottles of Joseph Perrier Cuvee Josephine...to an Iraqi gaff up the street at the harbourside.
I had been clearing out my stash when I came across a bin soiled bottle, which I knew to be either Cheval Blanc 82 or 83 - I could tell by the capsule - so I brought it along. The crumbly cork confirmed it was the 83 and it was simply brilliant. Earthy, mushroomy and complex it was very mature. Mature Cheval Blanc. It doesn't get much better. Jono's Lamarche Grands Echezeaux was delicious and stayed in touch the whole night while the 1996 Sandrone Cannubis Boschis was left in the cold. It is a modern wine, which isn't ready; but I am not sure it ever will be.
Then on Friday night M and J and I had these, plus my Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris 1999, a young beauty.
The 2000 Hermitage La Chapelle was disappointingly simple...a charming northern rhone but you expect more even at the knock down price of £54. The Jadot Corton 1995 was in a different league. It takes no prisoners, and has a magnificent tension and typicite.
Wines of the year so far, excluidng NYE wines, are dominated by burgundy:
1. Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Marie Beurrrier 1988
2. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1983
3. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1999
4. Dujac Clos St-Denis 2002
5. Jadot Corton 1995
6. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996
7. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 2001
8. Lamarche Grands- Echezeaux 2004
9. Maurice Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Hospices De Beaune 2002
10. Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Le Clos 2008
Wines I have bought recently:
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Bourgogne Blanc 2010
Pierre Yves Colin Morey St Aubin La Chateniere 2010
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008
Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Le Clos 2008
Jean Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2010
Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée 2009
Noel Verset Cornas 1990
Noel Verset Cornas 1995
Chateau Belair, St-Emilion 1995
Chateau Belair, St-Emilion 1998
Chateau Berliquet, St-Emilion 2001
Chateau Palmer, Margaux, 1999
As the Greeks say
Ya sus!
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