I was planning to dash down to burgundy in Jan/Feb to stock up and I cheekily asked Alex if I could join him and his burgundy aficionado friend Ian Westcott from Melbourne on their annual pilgrimage to the hallowed turf.
I have never spent more than a few days in burgundy - I am usually en route somewhere else or en route back - so this trip was an eye opener. My mother who is in hospital urged me to go, which was some consolation for missing BWE '17.
Burgundian winemakers are justly proud of what they have and what they have achieved - not just because they are blessed with some of the most extraordinary terroir on the planet, but also through unstinting dedication and commitment.
Nobody understands burgundy better than they do. Some critics understand burgundy better than others, and some have rightly had their sorry asses run right out of town.
Comte Flâneur Star Rating
1/2 - awful; * poor; *1/2 mediocre; ** not bad; ** 1/2 quite good; *** good; ***1/2 very good; **** excellent; ****1/2 outstanding; ***** magnificent; *****1/2 astonishing; ****** extraordinary
Scores with brackets (-) implies scope for improvement with age
Saturday
We stopped off on the way down and drank:
Champagne Pertois Lebrun Exaltation **
Michel Colin Deleger Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2014 ****
Coche Dury Meursault 2012 *****
Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques 2010 ***(**)
The Coche was thick textured. I prefer the racier 2011, but it is nonetheless a remarkably brilliant wine. But do we over rate it? Arguably the price gap with other good wines from the commune is unjustified. With the CSJ we could have chosen a 2011 or 12 which probably would have shown a bit more.
Sunday
We had lunch at Ian's gite in Meursault with two growers and their wives. Also attending were Alex, Maureen and the irrepressible Greg Love. It was a memorable occasion. Ian supplied more than his fair share including the champagnes, which I don't get too excited about, and the grand Cru red burgundies - plenty of reason to be excited. The fact that the Mugnier Musigny 2005 was sheer perfection was less surprising than the fact that it was (just about) ready to drink. I reckon with 10-20 years it will show even more complexity. Patrick Essa and Jean-Marc Pillot not only make top notch wines but are brilliant blind tasters, nailing the GCs. At Alex's suggestion I threw in two kiwi wines, one a '100 pointer' (Bob Campbell), and they acquitted themselves well. Patrick and Jean-Marc were politely respectful and complimentary on both.
Champagne Pertois Lebrun Exaltation **
Champagne Larmardier Bernie 1996 **1/2
Champagne Sugot-Feneuil **
Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 2014 ***1/2
Boisset-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Bouche Cheres 2013 ****
Boisset-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Les Tessons ****
Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay 2014 ***1/2
Coesens Couteaux Champenois 2014 *1/2
Seresin Leah Pinot Noir 2012 ***
Boisson-Charles Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 2014 ***(*)
Jean Marc-Pillot Chassagne Montrachet (Rouge) 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean 2015 ***(*)
Jean Raphet Clos De La Roche 1999 ****
Frederic Esmonin Chambertin Clos De Beze 1998 ****1/2
Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2005 *****(*)
Camille-Giroud Grand Cru Corton Le Clos Du Roi 2007 ***
Fourier Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combes Aux Moines 1995 ***
Chateau Belair, St-Emilion, 2000 ****
Monday
The first appointment was with the perfectly attired, witty and sharp Jacques Seysess who founded Domaine Dujac in 1968. His 15s show enormous promise and the 1996 Clos De La Roche is fully resolved and a thrill to drink. In the afternoon we visited Pascale Rion who show-cased her excellent 2014s.
Dujac Chambolle Musigny 2015 **(*)
Dujac Morey Saint Denis 2015 ***(*)
Dujac Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers 2015 **(**)
Dujac Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Malconsorts 2015 **(**1/2)
Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2015 ****(*)
Dujac Clos De La Roche 2015 ***(**)
Dujac Bourgogne Blanc 2015 **
Dujac Clos De La Roche 1996 *****
Daniel Rion Bourgogne Rouge 2014 **1/2
Daniel Rion Cote De Nuits Villages 2014 ***
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Lavieres 2014 ***
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Grand Vignes 2014 ***
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2014 ***1/2
Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vigne Rondes 2014 ***1/2
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 2014 ***1/2
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2014 ****
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes 2014 ****
Daniel Rion Echezeaux 2014 ****1/2
Daniel Rion Clos Vougeot 2014 ****1/2
Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes 2008 ***1/2
Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Les Encegnieres 2014 ***
Tuesday
A cold miserable day, and freezing cold cellars. Bertrand Chevillon's wines are simply top drawer. My favourite was Cailles, which has that bit extra finesse. After lunch in Le Milliseme we headed across the road to Frederic Mugnier, which was a memorable treat. I guess you could say his Amoureuses is a wine to kill for and his '15 Musigny may match his '05. Then we headed out to the back of beyond in Haut-Cotes Du Nuits to visit the erudite David Duband. The wines started off slow and stalky, but rose inexorably to a grand cru crescendo. Pruliers came up trumps several times on this trip, and Duband's was rich and scintillating.
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chaignots 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Bousselots 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Roncieres 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Perriers 2015 **(*1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2015 **(**)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Cailles 2015 **(**1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Saints Georges 2015 **(**1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 2015 **(**1/2)
Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains 2014 **(**)
Jules Desjourneys L'Interdit (Beaujolais) 2008 * 1/2
Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 2015 ***(*1/2)
Frederic Mugnier Nuits Saints Georges Clos De La Marechale 2015 ***(*)
Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Fuee 2015 ***(*1/2)
Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny Les Amoreuses 2015 ****(*)
Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2015 ****(*1/2)
Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2015 ****(*)
Frederic Mugnier Nuits Saint Georges Clos De La Marechale Blanc 2015 ***
Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2014 ****(*)
David Duband Haut Cotes De Nuits 2015 *(*)
David Duband Gevrey Chambertin 2015 *(*1/2)
David Duband Morey Saint Denis 2015 **(*)
David Duband Vosne Romanee 2015 **(*)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 2015 **(*)
David Duband Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Broc 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbe 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey 2015 ***(*1/2)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Pruliers 2015 ***(*1/2)
David Duband Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Proces 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2015 ***(*)
David Duband Exchezeaux 2015 ***1/2(*)
David Duband Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
David Duband Latricieres Chambertin 2015 ***1/2(*)
David Duband Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
David Duband Vosne Romanee 2010 ***
David Duband Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Sorbes 2008 ****
Wednesday
Romain Taupenot welcomed us on a cold Wednesday morning. I really loved his saline Auxey, which thrived in 2015, but this was a strong showing across the board. Maybe his More Delphic Mayozeres edged out his Charmes but they were both sublime. After lunch we were welcomed by the effusive Patrice Rion, a different personality to his sister a couple of hundred metres down the road. Patrice is focused on energy efficiency and attention to detail especially during bottling and has become a hot property. His Villages NSG and Argillieres were very good indeed, and his lacy Amoureuses was to die for. Domaine Poissot in Corton was the last visit. His Corton Charlemagne from 70-year old vines is one of the best I have tried. His RSV is arguably on the best plot in that vineyard just across from Romanee Conti: power, class, elegance, complexity.
Taupenot Merme Auxey Duress 1er Cru 2015 ***(1/2)
Taupenot Merme Chambolle Musigny 2015 **(*)
Taupenot Merme Gevrey Chambertin 2015 **(*)
Taupenot Merme Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru Riottes 2015 ***(*)
Taupenot Merme Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2015 ***(*)
Taupenot Merme Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
Taupenot Merme Mayozeres Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Du Clos De Fees Cotes Du Roussillon Villages 2012 *
Patrice Rion Bourgogne Rouge 2015 *(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 2015 *1/2(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 2015 **(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2015 ****(*)
Patrice Rion Vougeot Les Cras 2015 **(*)
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Villages **1/2(*)
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Les Argillieres 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Clos Saint Marc Monopole 2015 ***(*)
Patrice Rion Bonnes Mares ****(*)
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Terres Blanches 2015 ***1/2
Patrice Rion Nuits Saint Georges Terres Blanches 2014 ***1/2
Domaine Poisot Pernand Vergelesses Blanc 2015 **(*)
Domaine Poisot Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradoux Rouge 2015 **(*)
Domaine Poisot Corton Charlemagne 2014 ****(*)
Domaine Poisot Corton Charlemagne 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Poisot Corton Bressandes 2015 ***(*1/2)
Domaine Poisot Corton Bressandes 2014 ***(*)
Domaine Poisot Romanee Saint Vivant 2015 ***(**1/2)
Domaine Poisot Romanee Saint Vivant 2014 ***(**)
Patrice Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Clos Saint Marc Monopole 2008 **(*)
Daniel Rion Nuit Saints Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2008 ****
Thursday
On Thursday we had two very enjoyable tastings with Domaines Bichot and Faiveley, which are not only slick marketing operations but turnout more than decent wines. Bichot's whites were marvellous, while the Clos De Cortons was the pick of the Faiveley bunch. Both are a huge presence in NSG. We had a picnic lunch next to Romanee Conti with pate and champagne to celebrate Ian's birthday. It was only three degrees centigrade, but it was comforting to know that Donald Trump could only afford to buy a few square metres for cash. Otoh Vladimir Putin could probably afford to buy the whole 1.8 hectares.
Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Secret De Famille 2014 **
Albert Bichot Pommard Clos Des Ursines Monopole - Domaine Du Pavillon 2013 **(*)
Albert Bichot Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chateau Gris - Monopole 2012 ***(1/2)
Albert Bichot Clos De Vougeot, Domaine du Clos Frantin 2011 ***(*)
Albert Bichot Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins - Domaine Long-Depaquit 2015 ***1/2
Albert Bichot Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne - Domaine Long-Depaquit 2014 ****
Albert Bichot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - Domaine Du Pavillon 2014 ***1/2
Albert Bichot Corton Charlemagne - Domaine Du Pavillon 2014 ****1/2
Champagne Francois Chaumont Blanc De Blancs **
Roses De Jeanne Champagne Cote De Val Vilaine **
Domaine Duroche Gevrey Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois 2014 ****
Domaine Faiveley Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots 2015 ***(1/2)
Domaine Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2015 ***(*)
Domaine Faiveley Charmes Chambertin 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos Des Cortons 2015 ****(*)
Domaine Faiveley Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain 2015 ***(1/2)
Domaine Faiveley Corton Charlemagne ***1/2(*)
Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthal Rully 2014 ***
Thierry et Pascale Matrot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux 2010 ****
Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin La Justice ***
