Top 100 of 2012

This is my best attempt to come up with my top 100 wines of 2012. There are more than 100 wines here as I have occasionally lumped different vintages of the same wine together, or different wines from the same producer and vintage, if I felt they were about equal in my subjective pecking order. 

For example I have lumped together four vintages of Hermitage La Chapelle, the first three being delicious and perfectly 'a point' and the 1990 nowhere near ready. The latter will ultimately go on to be the better wine, but provides less pleasure today than the 82, 85 and 88, so subjectly they are about equal in 2012. Similar Magdelaine 1982 (#17) is a much more pleasurably drink than Lafite 1982 (#46), but the Lafite is immortal.  These rankings are not necessarily consistent with my previous rankings, and I make no apology for that as my thoughts have evolved.

I did not include any 2010 Bordeaux in this list, even though I tasted so many stunning wines from this vintage that I think it is probably the best ever. That accolade previously went to the more forward and voluptuous 2009 vintage. The 2010s are more structured and altogether more serious. In my opinion, extraordinary/best ever wines were made at Leoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose, Branaire Ducru, Pape Clement and La Conseillante in 2010. They would all comfortably be in the top 50, but I did not want to clog up the list with these wines.

My top two producers of the year are Noel Verset and Chateau Figeac, which feature here more than any other wines. It was an astonishing year of wine drinking and so many big name wines did not make it, notably including Chateau Pichon Lalande 1982 (a bit tired) and Chateau Leoville Lascases 1982 (still shut own). Of course there are only good bottles and not so good bottles at that age and on another occasion I am sure both would have shone and featured well up the pecking order. 

Ratings code: 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100

100. Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1999/2000 - still evolving

99. Fontodi Flaccianello 1997 - a Super-Tuscan that won't disappoint

98. Fourrier Griottes Chambertin 1997 - medium, minerals and cherries

97. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie Cuvée Classique 2006 - terrific poise

96. Chateau Giscours 1982 - fully mature, rich, vibrant, berries

95. Denis Bachelet Charmes Chambertin 1998 - expressive

94. Chateau Margaux 1985 - stern

93. Jaboulet Hermitage  La Chapelle 1982/1985/1988 - 'a point' - 1990 - brooding

92. Clerico Barolo Pajana/Ginestra 2001 - modern and stylish

91. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981/1986 - perfectly resolved, complex, mature cote rotie

90. Chateau Figeac 2006/2008 - classy and understated - 2009 - more exuberant 

89. Oddero Barolo 1967 - stern and fresh, decades left

88. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1982 - classic and still quite youthful

87. Tattinger Comtes De Champagne 1988 - butterscoth and roasted nuts

86. Dom Perignon 1990 - strawberries and  cream

85. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 2001 - thinking woman's burgundy

84. Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan 2000 - brooding brilliance

83. Jamet Cote Rotie 1998 - rounded, funky, gamey and carnal

82. Gonon Saint Joseph 1990 - a revelation

81. Chateau Figeac 1980 - leather, chocolate and pipe tobacco

80. Coche Dury Meursault 1996/2001/2003 - hazelnuts, purity and integrity

79. Noel Verset Cornas 1995/1996/1998 - old school, hardcore

78. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1995 - full; punchy and dense mid-palate

77. Chateau Pichon Baron 2002 - quintessential Pauillac

76. Chave Hermitage Blanc 1997 - aristocratic

75. Chateau Latour 1985 - bountiful fruit, cedar, saddle leather

74. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982 - marauding

73. Chateau Climens 1988 - dexterity

72. Coteau De Vernon Condrieu 2007 - flamboyant and brilliant

71. Chateau Grillet 1998/2005/2008 - pale, radiant; igneous slate

70. Camile Giroud Vosne Romanee Malconsorts 1978 - rousing

69. Chateau D'Yquem 1989 - volumptuous (sic)

68. Chateau Cos D'Estournel 2003 - genuine class in a controversial vintage

67. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee 2007 - scrumptious

66. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1995 - gravitas

65. Domaine De Lambrays Clos De  Lambrays 1997 - enchanting

64. Dagueneau Silex 2009 - precision

63. Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000 - evolves into a dream 

62. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1981 - regal

61. Chave Hermitage 1988/1994 - judicious extraction, effortlessly classy

60. Mortet Gevrey Chambertin en Matrot 1996 - haunting

59. Chavy Puligny Montrachet Perrieres 2010 - taut, steely, minerally

58. Chateau Figeac 1976 - glorious

57. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1982 - resolving volcanically

56. Jadot Beaune Clos De Ursules 2001 - always back this dark horse

55. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 - mineral, citrus, laser-like

54. Cheval Blanc 1983 - tertiary, tobacco complexity

53. Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2002 - as good as you would expect

52. Jadot Corton 1995 - obdurate, better than a cold shower

51. Raveneau Chablis Les Forets 1996 - hints at greatness

50. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1984 - never ceases to amaze me

49. Donhoff Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke 2009 - Teutonic perfection

48. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Ancegnieres 2010 - extraordinary quality

47. Camile Giroud Corton Clos Du Roi/Corton Rognets 2007 - superstars

46. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1982 - skulking, immortal

45. Mark Haisma Charmes Chambertin 2009 - rich, imperious and complex

44. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2007 - inspired

43. Noel Verset Cornas 1989/1990/1991- Feldspar, Delphic, Kafka-esque

42. Fonseca 1985 - a touch of magic

41. Keller Trockenbeerenauslese  2008 - unctuous, awesome

40. Chateau Pichon Baron 2009 - try keep your hands off this

39. DRC Vosne Romanee Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 2009 - astounding

38. Noel Verset Cornas 1999 - the best of a fine bunch of Versets

37. Domaine De Vogeraie Bonnes Mares 2001 - truly a revelation

36. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1996 - power and lead in its pencil

35. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1995 - lead and minerals

34. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 - a gorgeous, fully resolved Mouton

33. Chateau Pontet Canet 2009 - pushes the envelope of perfection

32. Chateau Palmer 1989 - on the ascent towards greatness

31. Chateau Palmer 1985 - ladylike, classic Palmer

30. Chateau Palmer 1986 - thrilling, foursquare, masculine

29. Chave Vin De Paille 1986 - decadent and surreal

28. Chateau Figeac 1998 - transmogrifying into something very special

27. Chateau Rieussec 2001 - how can sauternes be better than this? 

26. Ponsot Clos De La Roche 1999 - already breath-taking

25. Chateau Pichon Baron 2000 -  shed its puppy fat, magnificent speciman

24. Chateau Pichon Baron 2005 -  probably the best ever Baron

23. Chateau Figeac 1986 - mesmerising, complex, mature, gorgeous

22. Hudelot Noellat Richebourg 1993 - close to perfection, resolved

21. Jamet Cote Rotie 1997 - fabulous tension and precision

20. Rousseau Clos Saint Jacques 2004 - insanely delicious...04

19. Chateau Grillet 1989 - levitating, ethereal, humbling

18. Chateau Latour 1982 - monumental and Churchillian

17. Chateau Magdelaine 1982 - St-Emilion and 1982 at their best

16. Henri Bonneau Reserve De Celestines 1995 - thrillingly kaleidoscopic

15. Chateau Rayas 1995 - spellbinding and intoxicating

14. Soldera Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 2000 - Italy's DRC

13. Harlan Estate 1994 - iconoclastic

12. Chateau Ausone 1971 - magical

11. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1985 - sets the benchmark for all claret

10. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990 - Madagascar cocoa, wolframite and Mediterranean olives

9.   Henri Bonneau Cuvée Marie Beurrier 1988 - spine-tingling

8.   Gentaz-Dervieux Cote Rotie 1991 - benchmark, mythical Cote-Rotie

7.   Chateau Margaux 1982 - beguiling and extraordinary

6.   Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline 1982 - so so worth the wait

5.   Chateau Haut Brion 1982 - impeccable poise and gravitas

4.   Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982 - poignant, alluring, thrilling; effortless perfection

3.   Chave Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin 1991 - mouth coating, myriad naunces & complexity

2.   Chave Hermitage 1990 - simply astonishing; a masterpiece

1.   DRC Richebourg 1978 - pinch youself Ian; you are still alive. Holy cow!

My top 100 wines in Q4 2012

Regarding 2010 Bordeaux I only included those I considered extraordinary at a recent 2010 tasting. I also included Le Pin 2010 tasted separately. I have applied scores to these wines out of 100, which I regard as the least flawed of all scoring systems, although it still entails a grossly spurious pretence of accuracy. Neither do these scores make any claim for consistency or fairness. Some of the younger wines have been scored in a range. The inconsistency often arises because older wines have been given pride of place up the pecking order if they are judged to be around their peak.

100. Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 1994 - 88

99. Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 1995 - 88

98. Chateau Beaucastel Blanc 2001 - 88

97. Ceritas Escarpa Pinot Noir 2009 - 88-90

96. Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2007 - 89

95. Araldica Corsini Barbaresco 2009 - 89-91

94. Domaine De Chevalier 1990 - 89

93. Chateau Beychevelle 1990 - 89

92. Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl 2000 - 89

91. Chateau Figeac 2007 - 89-92

90. Ceritas Porter Bass Chardonnay 2009 - 89-92

89. Jobard Meursault En Barre 2000 - 89

88. Fattoria Del Felsina Berrandenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 1997 - 89

87. Nicholas Potel Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes 2000 - 89

85. Chateau Pichon Baron 1985 - 89

86. Sine Qua Non Mr K the Noble Man 2000 - 90

84. Chateau Rieussec 1998 - 90

83. Castello Di Rampolla Sammarco 1997 - 90

82. Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz 2000 - 90

81. Penfolds RWT Shiraz 1997 - 90

80. Henriot Champagne 1989 - 90

79. Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 - 90-92

78. Dominus 1991 - 91

77. Chateau Angelus 1995 - 91-93

76. Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1990 - 91-93

75  Chateau Pichon Baron 2001 - 91-93

74. Louis Michel Cornas La Geynale 2001 - 91

73. Gianni Voerzio Barolo La Serra 1997 - 91

72. Chateau Certan De May 2001 - 91

71. Barolo Classico Massolino 2007 - 91-94

70. Cotat Sancerre Caillottes 2010 - 91-94

69. Chateau Gruaud-Larose 1995 - 91

68. Roagna Barbaesco Paje 2003 - 91-94

67. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie La Landonne 2001 - 91-95

86. Chateau Rieussec 1999 - 92

65. Dom Perignon 1990 - 92 

64. Praeger Gruner Veitliner 2006 - 92

63. Chateau Grillet 2008 - 92-95

62. Robert Arnoux Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Corves Pagets 2000 - 92

61. Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1999 - 92

60. Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie Cuvée Classique 2006 - 92-94

59. JM Brocard Chablis Le Clos 2008 - 92-94

58. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1993 - 92

57. Ridge Montebello 1992 - 92

56. Chateau Figeac 2006 - 92-94

55. Chateau Pape Clement 1990 - 92

54. Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2010 - 92-94

53. Chateau Poujeaux 1997 - 92

52. Louis Michel Cornas La Geynale 1999 - 92

51. Le Pin 2010 - 92-95

50. Chateau Figeac 2008 - 92-95

49. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee 2007 - 93-95

48. Jasmin Cote-Rotie 1986 - 93

47. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1995 - 93-95

46. Jean Louis Chavy Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 2010 - 93-95 

45. Donhoff Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke 2009 -93-96

44. Trimbach CFE Riesling 2002 - 93-96

43. Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet 1999 - 93-96

42. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1988 - 93

41. Chateau Latour 1985 - 93-96

40. Chateau Palmer 1989 - 93-96

39. Fontodi Flaccianello 1997 - 93-96

38. Chave Hermitage Blanc 1997 - 93

37. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1981 - 93

36. Chateau Pichon Baron 2002 -93-96

35. Chateau D'Yquem 1989 - 94-96

34. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1995 -94-97

33. Chateau Figeac 2009 -94-97

32. Chave Hermitage 1994 -94

31. Chateau Palmer 1986 - 94

30. Coche Dury Meursault 1996/2001 - 94/94

29. Coteau De Vernon Condrieu 2007- 94

28. Noel Verset Cornas 1998 - 94-96

27. Chateau Palmer 1985 - 94

26. DRC Vosne-Romanee Cuvee Duvault-Blochet, 2009 - 95-98

25. Keller Trokenbeerenauslese 2008 - 95-98

24. Noel Verset Cornas 1999 - 95-97

23. Domaine De  Vougeraie Bonnes Mares 2001 - 95-97

22. Chateau Cos D'Estournel 2003 - 95-97

21. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1995 - 95-97

20. Chateau Pichon Baron 2009 - 95-100

19. Chateau Figeac 1998 - 95-98

18. Chateau Gruaud Larose 2010 - 95-100

17. Chateau La Conseillante 2010 - 95-100

16. Chateau Branaire Ducru 2010 - 95-100

15. Chateau Pape Clement 2010 - 95-100

14. Chateau Leoville Barton 2010 - 95-00

13. Chateau Pichon Baron 2000 - 96-99

12. Chateau Pichon Baron 2005 - 95-100

11. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 - 95

10. Chateau Figeac 1986 - 96

9. Hudelot Noellat Richebourg 1993 - 96-98

8. Chave Vin De Paille 1986 - 96

7. Henri Bonneau Reserve Des Celestines 1995 - 96-98

6. Chateau Rayas 1995 - 97-99

5. Soldera Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 2000 - 98

4. Chateau Ausone 1971 - 98

3. Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline 1982 - 99

2. Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin 1991 - 100

1. DRC Richebourg 1978 - 100

A mixed bag of 1990 Bordeaux

A group of the London crowd did a tasting of some 1990 Bordeaux at RSJ near Waterloo Station.

To start with:

1989 Château Olivier Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Interesting wine with a light colour and slightly dilute mid palate, it put on weight with the Semillon dominating. Fascinating. Old school. (88 pts.)

On to the main event

1990 Château Pape Clément - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Densely fruited but medium bodied and fragrant, lowish acidity. Fully mature. Superb. (93 pts.)

1990 Château Malescot St. Exupéry - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Latrinal nose and a bit hot and unbalanced on the palate. (85 pts.)

1990 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Quite dense and still a little tight, but a good though not very exciting bottle (90 pts.)

1990 La Grange Neuve de Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru.
Low acid a bit over-ripe, holding up. (85 pts.)

1990 Château Clerc Milon - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Good wine, dense fruits, medium bodied, not enthralling. (89 pts.)

1990 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Super wine and recognisable as Ducru, slight taint on the finish, which gets progressively worse. Previous bottle was stellar. NR

1990 Domaine de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Good wine. Smoke, blackcurrants and some mintiness (90 pts.)

1990 Château Batailley - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Bit bretty, out of sorts and rustic. However it improves in the glass, but not a very polished effort. (85 pts.)

1990 L'Esprit de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Very nice wine and similar to the Grand Vin, just not quite as dense on the mid-palate. (89 pts.)

1990 Château Belair - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Nice and dense but at the same time restrained wine with good breeding, true to the appellation. Old school St-Emilion. (90 pts.)

1990 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Porty and spirity, hollow on the palate. A wine which is cracking up and aging badly. Very similar to one we had a few weeks back (70 pts.)

1990 Château Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
This £600 bottle had the Parker score (100) written on the label, which the owner denied having anything to do with. Very weird beefy, soy and black bean notes, like a Chinese takeaway. Or breast implants gone wrong. Or waking up next to Lola (not that it ever happened to me). This bottle was horribly unbalanced and not resembling a Saint Emilion. (80 pts.)

It gives me no pleasure to report on the plight of these hitherto revered wines. I doubt I will ever have the opportunity to try the BDL again.

In extra time

1990 Château Beychevelle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien. *** (88 pts.)
Atypical for the vintage, elegant, charming, lithe and at most medium bodied. A beautiful wine. (91 pts.)

To finish

1998 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
A good showing. Exuberant fruit and decent balancing structure. (90 pts.)

The Judgement of London, Bordeaux vs. California, 2012

A group of 11 gathered at the Medlar restaurant on the King’s Road in Chelsea to compare and taste some Bordeaux and Californian wines. The tasting was blind, and was very much about winners and losers in the spirit of the Judgement of Paris, 1976. I helped Ben the organiser put together the flights, but neither he nor I knew the order.

Champers

Champagne Vilmart Grand Cellier d’Or 2006 vs. Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc 2006

#1: Small bubbles, very pale colour, very fine, must be a luxury champagne – 92. It was.
#2: Fuller, sweeter, chewier, not a bad bottle of fizz, must be the Californian – 90. It was.

Flight one

Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron 1985
Château Calon Segur 1989

#1 Deep maroon colour fine nose of earth and pencil lead, dense on the palate; very good. Think this is Bordeaux, and has more than a hint of Pauillac, so this is probably the Baron – 92. It was indeed Pichon Baron
#2 Dark, brooding, smooth, classy, not showing much, as it ages further and develops more complexity it could become an outstanding wine. This is Californian, and I am guessing Dunn, which it was - 92+
#3 A lighter more translucent colour with rasping tannins; Bordeaux and it clearly played second fiddle to #1 and was a disappointment. I guessed correctly Calon Segur - 89
#4 This was quite buttoned up, not showing much complexity yet, will improve. Mondavi? Yes - 90+

A good flight, where I think the Dunn edges the Baron. Nevertheless a good performance from the Baron, which I thought could be a weak link on the night.

Flight two

Phelps Insignia 1994
Dominus 1994
Chateau Troplong Mondot 1990
Chateau Palmer 1989


#1. WTF? Cherry brandy, tastes like cheap port, this is a parody of California at its very worst. FMSW, this is unbelievably bad. It is flawed surely? People round the table are not sure. Is this the Insignia? No it’s the Troplong Mondot. ~<70
#2 This wine is very smooth and velvety, but somewhat detached with low acidity. It definitely tastes more Californian, but I am hopelessly confused now so I guess Troplong – 90. No it was Dominus.
#3. Initially this seemed a bit diffuse and unfocused. Unfortunately it was too warm. Then that familiar Palmer magic began to show through. Not the best 89 Palmer I have tried by far away the best wine in this flight. 94
#4.This had nothing on the nose. On the palate it was a bit gooey. Rich and voluptuous. Does not engage the intellect in the slightest. I am guessing Dominus – 90. No it was the Phelps.

Well that was a disappointing flight. The Troplong was too diabolical to be true, so the owner is going to bring another along to a 1990 tasting we are doing in November. Even the Palmer was a bit below par compared to one I tried a few weeks ago. I was really disappointed with the Dominus and the Phelps. They came across as such superficial wines which present no challenge to the intellect. Maybe that is what rich people want these days.

Flight three

Dominus 1991
Ridge Montebello 1992
Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985
Chateau Latour 1985

#1: Ruby translucent. FMTG. Fabulous. Not a blockbuster but medium bodied and elegant, with layered complexity and a delicious finish. My wine of the night. Has to be Mouton - 95. Yes it was Mouton.
#2. Big voluminous wine, with lots of interest, fruit and complexity. Outstanding wine. 93. I guessed Dominus but it was Ridge.
#3. Fully mature, various fruits, spices and minerals and fine balance, very very fine. – 94. I guessed Ridge but it was Dominus.
#4. Starts out slowly; a bit brooding and a little volatile and funky, then pulls itself together and comes on very strong at the end with Pauillac mineral-fruit intensity, almost hauling in the Mouton. Must be Latour and it was. 94

Fabulous flight.

Ringers – these weren’t served blind

1) Mouton 1993
Cool, classy, lean; good but not in the same league as the ’85 - 91
2) Matanzas Creek 1992
Fully mature, fat and low acid. If you like them fat and easy this is a wine for you - 89

Dessert wines

1) Sine Qua Non Mr K the Noble Man 2000
Extremely sweet and unctuous, thrilling 94
2) Chateau d’Yquem 1989
Remarkably developed for a 23 year old Yquem, full bodied, less taut and acidic than the 1988; but still well balanced and very fine. Yquem never disappoints. 95

I liked the 91 Dominus so much more than the 94, and this kind of summed the evening up. Aside from the appalling Troplong Bordeaux clearly came out on top. Qualitatively it wasn't as close as my scores suggested. All of these Californians were undoubtedly well made, but few of them are really interesting to drink.


My pecking order

Mouton 85, Yquem, Latour, Dominus 91, Palmer, SQN, Ridge, Dunn, Baron, Vilmart, Mouton 93 - Hits
Mondavi, Scramsberg – Middling
Dominus 94, Insignia, Calon, Matanzas, Troplong – Misses

The scores make no claims for accuracy, consistency or fairness

Richard Katz

We knew he was very unwell and fighting against quite formidable odds, but news of Richard's passing on Sunday 7th October was a crushing blow. He had a unique, inspirational and generous personality and he touched the lives of people he met. Even those who did not know him well were devastated by the news as the Wine Pages board attests. I first met Richard around Christmas 2009 at a 'best of class' dinner at The Ledbury where he very generously brought along a Chateau Rayas 1978. I don't count myself as  one of his closest friends but I did get to know him quite well this year, and he showed great courage and optimism in the face of his condition. We had a memorable couple of conversations at his house over coffee, about anything and everything.

Richard every time I drink a glass of decent Northern Rhone I will think of you. And we will never forget you.

Top 50 wines in Q3 2012

Sorry it has been such a long time, I have been very busy. Anyway I am still drinking fabulous wines, and here is my selection from Q3 2012.

50. Chateau Magdelaine 1988

49. Cornas 2003 (producer unknown)

48. Emille Balland Croq Caillotte Sancerre 2011

47. Chateau De Beaucastel Roussane Vieilles Vignes 1999  

46. Chateau Certan De May 1982

45. Trimbach Clos St-Hune 1997

44. Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

43. Chateau Pape Clement Blanc 1996

42. Chateau Leoville-Barton 2002

41. Chateau Branaire Ducru 1982

40. Michel Cornas Geynale 1999

39. Chateau Montrose 2002

38. Hermitage La Chapelle 1985

37. Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2010

36. Georges De Latour Beaulieu Private Reserve 1980

35. Oddero Barolo 1967

34. Fontaine Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee 2007

33. Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1999

32. Michel Cornas Geynale 1990

31. Clerico Barolo Ginestra 2001

30. Clerico Barolo Pajana 2001

29. Lynch-Bages 2009

28. Gilles Barges Cote Rotie 1994

27. Chateau Talbot 1982

26. Jobard Meursault En Barre 2000

25.Verset Cornas 1996

24. CVNE Vina Real Reserva Rioja 1985

23. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1982

22. Cotat Cul de Beaujeu Sancerre 2009

21. Chateau Climens 1988

20. Verset Cornas 1995

19. Jamet Cote Rotie 1998

18. Coteau du Vernon Condrieu 2007

17. Chateau Figeac 1976

16. Donhoff Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke 2009

15. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ancegnieres 2010

14. Dagueneau Silex 2009

13. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1990

12. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982

11. Camille-Giroud Cortot Rognots 2007

10. Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin en Matrot 1996

9. Camille-Giroud Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts 1978

8. Chateau Grillet 1998

7. Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2000

6. Chateau Magdelaine 1982

5. Chateau Clos Fourtet 2009

4. Chateau Pontet-Canet 2009

3. Chateau Palmer 1989

2. Harlan Estate 1994

1. Chateau Margaux 1982

 

Top 50 wines in Q2 2012

50. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1945

49. Chateau Rivesaltes 1930

48. Jasmin Cote Rotie 1995

47. Chateau Figeac 1982

46. Marc Colin Saint Aubin Chateniere 2010

45. Mullineux Schist Syrah 2010

44. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1990

43. Chave Hermitage 1988

42. Henschke Louis Semillon 2007

41. Chateau Palmer 1986

40. Robert Michel Cornas ‘La Geynale’2001

39. Montez Condrieu 2010

38. Chateau Branaire Ducru 2001

37. Chateau Leoville Barton 2002

36. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet La Boudroitte 2009

35. Jobard Meursault En Barre 2000

34. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 2009

33. Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2007

32. Marc Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 2007

31. Chateau Palmer 1985

30. Dervieux Rostaing Cote Rotie 1996

29. Dervieux Cote Rotie 1983

28. Louis Jadot Beaune Clos De Ursules 2001

27. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1982

26. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1982

25. Chateau Margaux 1982

24. Chateau Figeac 1980

23. Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008

22. Chateau Figeac 1976

21. Coche Dury Meursault 2003

20. Jamet Cote Rotie 1998

19. Noel Verset Cornas 1996

18. Noel Verset Cornas 1995

17. Camile Giroud Corton Le Rognet 2007

16. Camile Giroud Corton Le Clos du Roi 2007

15. Noel Verset Cornas 1990

14. Chateau Latour 1985

13. Mark Haisma Chambertin Clos De Beze 2009

12. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982

11. Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2007/2010

10. Jamet Cote Rotie 1997

9. Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 2004

8. Chateau Latour 1982

7. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1982

6. Chateau Lafite 1982

5. Chateau Grillet 1989

4. Chateau Lafite 1985

3. Chateau Haut-Brion 1982

2. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982

1. Chave Hermitage 1990

An evening in New York City with Ramon Cabrera

I was a bit worried that we didn’t have enough to drink, what with the proprietor and his staff sniffing around – the idea was to throw them a few tit-bits to get the corkage waived – and the searing, oppressive – hence thirst-inducing - July NYC heat. It was nice to get rained on and summarily drenched when we came out of our second or third bar. It was a fitting end to an evening with Ramon, whose perspicacity is matched by his capacity…to keep going, like one of the mountain climbers in the Tour de France.

PYCM is one of the hottest producers in the Chassagne-Montrachet. With everyone called ‘Colin’ or ‘Morey’ it makes you wonder why you don’t see more club- or web-footed hunchbacks walking around the village because after all they all marry their brothers and sisters. The reason is that they all have kids via their mistresses. I think Pierre Yves is the son of Marc Colin. But I may be wrong. About that.

Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 – pale colour, ripe, rich and delicious, mineral notes with perfectly judged acidity, which gives it a certain fleetness of foot.

Jamet Cote Rotie 1998 – funky, animaly, gamey, feral, carnal, rustic, forest floor, minerally, smoke, hickory, grilled meats, cured meats herbs and camphor. Drinking this I was like a pig in shit.

Noel Verset Cornas 1995 – a journey back in to the pre-industrial past. It has a cacophony of farmyard smells, notably lashings of farmyard manure; cowhide, grilled meat, smoke, bonfire and mineral elements, with herbal notes developing over time and a hint of garrigue. One for the Village Green Preservation Society. Better than taking an ice cold shower.

Noel Verset Cornas 1996 – this was a different animal, more tannic and foursquare than the 1995, somewhat grouchy to begin with; dusty, minerally and metallic, metal ores, feldspar and wolframite…Tungsten Carbide…ooohhh….(sorry)… leathery peppery, blood, game, iodine and camphor. Really improves in the glass and benefits from decanting. Beats sitting on a mountain top half-naked thrashing yourself with a birch.

Much as I love old Jasmin and Rostaing, when it comes to Cote Rotie Jamet is hard to beat. He has taken over where Dervieux-Gentaz left off (we don’t include Guigal and his La-Las in this list because they are much too vulgar). Jamet Cote Rotie has everything you could ask for…we had the 1997 down in the rhone and it was similar to the '98 but with a bit more tension. The 1998 is a fantastic wine, but if I could level one criticism it would be that it is remarkably ready to drink and easy to understand; it lacks a bit of mystery and tension – or ‘nervosity’, which the Versets have in spades. For that reason the two Versets are even more thrilling wines, particularly given once we drink our dwindling supplies we will probably never see them again. They are the absolute antithesis of modern commoditized 21st century wines.

Birthday and other wines

Birthday and recent wines On Friday 25th May at Boundary Chave Hermitage Blanc 1993 Fully mature and in a great spot it waxed lyrical with nutty notes, it tasted fresh and vibrant ***** Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1985 From a half this was smooth and refined with subtle notes of cigar box, tobacco, cedar, lead pencil, graphite, autumn leaves and subtle red fruits. Understated and classy it just glides across the palate and finishes long. This has perfect poise and is as good a glass of claret as you will ever encounter. ******(*) Chateau Latour 1985 More fruity and exuberant than the Lafite, this started off quite stern but really opened beautifully; it has cedar, saddle leather and plenty of ripe exuberant fruit. It is not a behemouth Latour but has plenty of structure and integrity to last for decades. *****(*) On Thursday 24th May at the Ledbury  Guigal Condrieu La Doriane 2007 First time tried this. It was young and a bit clumsy but clearly has many years to evolve with acacia and honey notes. **(**) Mullineux Schist Syrah 2010 It ran rings around two decidedly ordinary syrahs from Napa and Hunter. It was very classic northern rhone in style with good balance, acidity and tension, with good quality fruit. A touch hot on the finish but a very complete wine. This sells for £50 which seems ambitious given its roots but there is very little of it. ***(**) Chave Hermitage 1988 Ruby colour, restrained, elegant, quite lean but very complex with meaty, smokey, gamey, spicey, minerally overtones with a nod to elegance and finesse over power. ***** Hermitage La Chapelle 1990 This example was tight and wound up, despite being a tad too warm. Not showing very much of its huge potential. Was this a slightly off bottle or does this wine need another decade to evolve.?**(***) On 16th May "right bank" Dinner at RSJ Chateau Belair 1985 Initially tastes thin an reticent then opens delightfully. A stylidh old school right bank. **** Chateau Leoville Lascases 1945 This is timeless, long and hard, it is austere and has no charm, but it is immortal, Churchillian and quite thrilling. **** Chateau Rivesaltes 1930 Lively, with figgy notes. Glorious. ****

A tale of two Versets

Courtesy Richard Katz, I drank these on Friday in the company of someone who, when it comes to charm, looks and brains, is very much at the front of the queue. 

Noel Verset Cornas 1990 

Translucent garnet; perfumed, sauvage. Mushroom (hint of morello?), decay, cured meats. Smokey overtones, rich, and decadent; secondary opulent raspberry compote and plums; so smooth on the palate; somewhat burgundian, but unique; dignified, cerebral and kaleidoscopic with hints of coffee and menthol; faintly woodsy. A wine which whispers rather than shouts its wares; no wonder it gets lost in a ‘me too’ shouting match; this has poise and gravitas, an intellectual wine. 

Noel Verset Cornas 1995

Deep ruby maroon, more opaque, more woodsy, wispy, smoky ‘n’ gamey than the 1990. Bonfire, brine and seaspray; savoury, with spicey sausage, celery, nettles and raspberry notes with grippy, raspy tannins. Somewhat uncouth relative to the 1990, and that becomes more apparent as the night progresses. Not as smooth, nor as poised as the 1990, with some stalky notes. Nonetheless this is a smashing wine. 

Both decanted we initially mixed them up but it wasn’t difficult to tell which was which. The 1990 would get lost in a larger comparative tasting, but tasted next to its younger sibling it shows it class. Not that the 1995 was disappointing...it was a captivating example of traditional Cornas from this legendary producer...it was just that the 1990 was at another level.

Figeac, Haisma and PYCM

Three terrific wines this weekend.

Chateau Figeac 1980 - this is officially our favourite Bordeaux chateau for reasons that will never see the light of day. It was glorious with liquid milk chocolate, old leather shoes and various iterations of tobacco, medium weight. Inspired. It is better than the two 1982 Figeacs we had this year.

Mark Haisma Chambertin Clos De Beze 2009 - wild raspberries, red fruits, plums, rich Christmas cake, myriad spices, cinnamon, nutmeg...rich and imperious with marvellous complexity. A superstar of the future.

Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Meursault Genevrieres 2008 - had a rich, oily texture, with power and wonderful piercing acidity giving it laser like focus. Stone and citrus fruits with mineral complexity. At a recent dinner it torched two 02 Corton Charlemagnes. It is inspired stuff.

Three triumphant wines on Friday night.

Pictured below is my wine tasting partner, from a previous event chronicled in the thread below.

1982 Bordeaux

Last week a group of us tried a selected batch of 1982s at the Square in London's Mayfair district, which provided a brilliant - yet unobtrusive - menu featuring some philosphically contented white park beef.

Some of the contenders at the pre-tournament weigh in:

Flight one - right banks

Risotto of morels with mimolette and snails

Cheval Blanc - poignant, alluring and thrilling nose of leafy tobacco and decay that carries into a silky, luxurious and expansive palate and a long lingering finish. It is beautifully poised, and never heavy as it glides across the palate. Nothing forced or contrived, this is a perfect glass of mature Cheval Blanc which eclipses the 1983 and 1985.

Figeac - woodsy, greenish, creosote, fruit- shy, improved over the night, over time tobacco and leafy notes. Different to the one we had in Febraury; less thrilling but less flawed. Outclassed by the Cheval Blanc.

Latour A Pomerol - corked, good wine underneath.

Flight two - southern first growths

Haut Brion - impeccable poise and grivatas, understated and restrained with subtle notes of earth, damp gravel, melted road tar, rocks, minerals and spices. While this may come across as shy next to a 1989 it is fully mature and in the perfect place. It is the better wine to drink now.

Margaux - another wine which is a triumph of finesse over power, somewhat reticent it always tends to skulk when subjected to the indignity of comparative tastings. It is subtly fragrant with floral, cedary with tobacco notes. A wine which whispers rather than shouts its wares, it will always be there or thereabouts.

Flight three - Pauillac first growths

Fillet of white park beef with smoked tendons, stuffed shallots and bone marrow

Lafite - purple at the rim like a ten-year old, it was subdued and shy on the nose. Initially not showing much on the palate either it is still cocooned and tightly wound up; but as the evening progresses it slowly starts to express itself. Aristocratic and elegant, it is seamless and smooth with its best years ahead of it. It still needs 10-20 years; by then it will be challenging Latour for the mantle of 'wine of the vintage.'

Mouton - a more expressive wine with soy and coffee bean and a full-bodied, mouth-filling, palate of berries, spice, mocha and tobacco. Marvellously thrilling and exuberant, the tannins are still not fully integrated, nor dispersed. Well stored bottes should continue to improve.

Latour - a powerful, forceful wine, which is approaching full maturity. This has oodles of fruit, cigar box, minerals, slate, graphite...just about everything. The only slight quibble is that it lacks the beguiling complexity and the under-stated elegance of some of the other wines here, nor, perhaps, is it as delicious as the 1990 Latour. But it is undoubtedly a monumental - Churchillian - Latour with its best years ahead of it.

Flight four: Super seconds

Glazed short rib of white park beef with creamed potato and truffle

Leoville-Lascases - pure and young, it continues to age glacially. This example had a purple rim and an integrity and dexterity of pure fruits, and some lead pencil , but not as much as last time. Like the 1986 it is an impeccable wine but it lacks the personality of some of its more illustrious peers.

Pichon Longueville Comtesse De Lalande - a maroon robe, still delicious and gorgeous, but some of the burnt raspberry vibrancy has faded, and this wine now lacks the grip it once had. Maybe this was atypical, but on this showing, this has now been overtaken by Latour in the Great 1982 horse race.

Gruaud-Larose - I expected this to be outclassed by its two super second flight mates, but in some ways it was the more complete wine with arousing beefy overtones with little of the Cordier funk and brett on show. It was tighter and grippier than the Pichon, but more sybaritic than the Lascases.

My pecking order - in reverse order (not including LaP)

10. Figeac
9. Pichon Lalande
8. Leoville Lascases
7. Margaux
6. Gruaud-Larose
5. Latour
4. Mouton
3. Lafite
2. Haut-Brion
1. Cheval Blanc

The group's wotn was Latour, followed by Cheval Blanc and Haut-Brion

We finished of with Chateau d'Yquem 1986, which was a rich burnt rusty orange, with marmalade more than citrus-exotic fruit notes as it enters middle age.

Howard and Maureen...

And no intro required